I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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sorrowfulkiller
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
First of all, the pignose didn't come with the KA24DE. The average 240 person should know that frame rot is common, as well as in the rocker panels, and strut towers. Other than that, S13 driver's side seat is messed up almost 100% of the time.When looking for a good car to build up, it depends on what you are trying to build it for... if you are keeping the stock engine, and not rebuilding it, you should look at your compression, gaskets, belts, hoses, and the condition of the radiator. That would give you a good base for a decent build on a 240... if you are going for big numbers, you are either going to be swapping out the KA, or rebuilding it, so a lot of the above stuff doesn't matter.

JWT cams are good 240 cams.

That is most of the 240 specific info when buying... when modifying, there is a whole slew of additional info you should know about.
ha ha so pretty much the only thing that will matter to me is rust radiator will be swapped, seats will be swapped, engine rebuilt, ecu swapped for aem ems, roll cage welded in... ect

I'm planning on spending a little over 10k with all work but machine work done myself. I'm also thinking somewhere between 350-400 hp with a gt2871r, build block and head, running e85 and 1000cc injectors along with a slew of supporting mods.

Thanks for the info
Modified by sorrowfulkiller at 5:27 PM 5/25/2009


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240pav
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Car: 1991 240sx sr20det redtop

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i thought it was bad gas but its not. i thought it was a fuel pump its not

my engine is cranking but wont run. i have the throttle fully open and it only hits 1100 rpms and when i let go of the throttle it stalls. fuel pressure is reading good. theres a safe amnt of oil. im stuck


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sorrowfulkiller
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240pav wrote:i thought it was bad gas but its not. i thought it was a fuel pump its not

my engine is cranking but wont run. i have the throttle fully open and it only hits 1100 rpms and when i let go of the throttle it stalls. fuel pressure is reading good. theres a safe amnt of oil. im stuck
when in doubt change every filter you can

my wrx had a similar problem, even had goo fuel pressure, changed the fuel filter and it worked great

thats another thing.... everyone switching to e85 should swap out their fuel filters within 2-3 weeks, because all the cleaning e85 will do with your fuel system will get stuck in the filter and make it clogged very quickly

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Johnnie
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I just bought a 1990 240sx hatch and the light behind the left gauges is out, how do I get behind the cluster to replace the bulb?and where can i find LED bulbs to replace them with?

AND, the dome light doesn't illuminate when I open the door, but works when the switch is set to "ON"what could this be?--How could I fix that?

thanks

rb25det250sx
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^^^ pull out the cluster, replace the bulbs.

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240pav
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Car: 1991 240sx sr20det redtop

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sorrowfulkiller wrote:when in doubt change every filter you can

my wrx had a similar problem, even had goo fuel pressure, changed the fuel filter and it worked great

thats another thing.... everyone switching to e85 should swap out their fuel filters within 2-3 weeks, because all the cleaning e85 will do with your fuel system will get stuck in the filter and make it clogged very quickly
p
sorrowfulkiller wrote:when in doubt change every filter you can

my wrx had a similar problem, even had goo fuel pressure, changed the fuel filter and it worked great

thats another thing.... everyone switching to e85 should swap out their fuel filters within 2-3 weeks, because all the cleaning e85 will do with your fuel system will get stuck in the filter and make it clogged very quickly
i changed out the fuel filter, changed out old gas with new, also tried injector cleaner... no luck...im about to sell my car if i cant fix it soon for cheap.
Modified by 240pav at 2:11 PM 5/26/2009

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Johnnie wrote:I just bought a 1990 240sx hatch and the light behind the left gauges is out, how do I get behind the cluster to replace the bulb?and where can i find LED bulbs to replace them with?

AND, the dome light doesn't illuminate when I open the door, but works when the switch is set to "ON"what could this be?--How could I fix that?

thanks
I've never pulled a cluster, but does the dome light light up when the other door is opened? If so, you probably have a bad door switch on the driver's side.

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sorrowfulkiller
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240pav wrote:
p

i changed out the fuel filter, changed out old gas with new, also tried injector cleaner... no luck...im about to sell my car if i cant fix it soon for cheap.

Modified by 240pav at 2:11 PM 5/26/2009
Are you getting spark?

Pull out a plug, disconnect that cylinders injector (to prevent wall-washing) Put spark plug that's connected to the wire up against your exhuast or intake manifold and have someone crank the engine, if you don't see any spark then you have an issue either with that wire, or if you don't have spark on any spark plug then you need to either change your coil or something else related to your ignition system. (don't really know what all is in the ka24 ignition system other than the coil yet )

Also, could just be something as simple as your ignition switch behind where your key goes in to start the car.

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240pav
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sorrowfulkiller wrote:
Are you getting spark?

Pull out a plug, disconnect that cylinders injector (to prevent wall-washing) Put spark plug that's connected to the wire up against your exhuast or intake manifold and have someone crank the engine, if you don't see any spark then you have an issue either with that wire, or if you don't have spark on any spark plug then you need to either change your coil or something else related to your ignition system. (don't really know what all is in the ka24 ignition system other than the coil yet )

Also, could just be something as simple as your ignition switch behind where your key goes in to start the car.
ok i checked it with a friend but i will check again...thank u siralso it was running fine until it stalled in the middle of the road..like i said ill check spark again tommorow

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sorrowfulkiller
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240pav wrote:
ok i checked it with a friend but i will check again...thank u siralso it was running fine until it stalled in the middle of the road..like i said ill check spark again tommorow
How did it stall? Did you just lose all power and the engine die or did your car loose all power period??

If the car lost all power period, then it's your ignition switch.If not then something else in your ignition system is at fault.

I'm guessing the ka24's have an ignition module because from what I hear the base timing is set by the coil and the ecu controls timing past that. So if it is not your coil and it is not your ignition switch nor is it your wires, check your ignition module.

Ignition module's can be tested, most auto parts stores can test them, to name a few that I know do...

Advance auto partsautozoneo'reilley's auto parts

forgot to ask.... you don't have any codes right?

I used to work at an advance auto store, I learned an assload there. I suggest anyone with any automotive interest get a part time job at an auto parts store because of all the information you'll learn.
Modified by sorrowfulkiller at 9:06 PM 5/26/2009

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flip1
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how do you tune a stock sr20det maf?and wich is the best intake option? i have the cast aliminum replacement for the stock rubber pipe. i just need the intake cone.

any help would be great
Modified by flip1 at 11:40 PM 5/26/2009

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Marktheace
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Where is the best place to find a ka24de? I've been trying to locate them in the classifieds w/ little luck.

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PyR0NiAk
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flip1 wrote:how do you tune a stock sr20det maf?and wich is the best intake option? i have the cast aliminum replacement for the stock rubber pipe. i just need the intake cone.

any help would be great

Modified by flip1 at 11:40 PM 5/26/2009
I've never heard of anyone tuning a sr20 maf... Just get a z32 maf

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PyR0NiAk
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Marktheace wrote:Where is the best place to find a ka24de? I've been trying to locate them in the classifieds w/ little luck.
What's the reason you're looking for one? To rebuild and turbo or just to replace one that is blown in your current car? The reasoning is... If you're going to rebuild it, a junkyard is a good place to find them cheap

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flip1
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PyR0NiAk wrote:
I've never heard of anyone tuning a sr20 maf... Just get a z32 maf
then whats the point of the wireing for it? and i was thinking of going with the apex power intake is that a good choice?

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240pav
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sorrowfulkiller wrote:How did it stall? Did you just lose all power and the engine die or did your car loose all power period??

If the car lost all power period, then it's your ignition switch.If not then something else in your ignition system is at fault.

I'm guessing the ka24's have an ignition module because from what I hear the base timing is set by the coil and the ecu controls timing past that. So if it is not your coil and it is not your ignition switch nor is it your wires, check your ignition module.

Ignition module's can be tested, most auto parts stores can test them, to name a few that I know do...

Advance auto partsautozoneo'reilley's auto parts

forgot to ask.... you don't have any codes right?

I used to work at an advance auto store, I learned an assload there. I suggest anyone with any automotive interest get a part time job at an auto parts store because of all the information you'll learn.

Modified by sorrowfulkiller at 9:06 PM 5/26/2009
WELL it dropped really low rpms and i had to floor it to keep the rpms about 1100, after a couple seconds i just let it die. now if it does cstart up my foot has to be on the gas and it only goes to 1100 rpms

i have no codes, its an sr, where is my ignition module on my SR ??

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GaMBiTx
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Hey,the 2 fuel hose lines coming out of the fuel tank connecting to the hard line in the trunk area,does anyone know what sizes are there? one forum post said that it was 1/2 (gas going from tank to front) and 3/8 (returning gas line).. Can anyone confirm this? I need to change this and dont want to drop the tank either. Has anyone changed these hoses before?

Thanks all.

Pdawg
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The 300zx non turbo is the only compatible lsd with the same ratio as the 240? Also to use the 300z diff all you need is some j30 axles?

thanks

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PapaSmurf2k3
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sorrowfulkiller wrote:How did it stall? Did you just lose all power and the engine die or did your car loose all power period??

If the car lost all power period, then it's your ignition switch.If not then something else in your ignition system is at fault.

I'm guessing the ka24's have an ignition module because from what I hear the base timing is set by the coil and the ecu controls timing past that. So if it is not your coil and it is not your ignition switch nor is it your wires, check your ignition module.

Ignition module's can be tested, most auto parts stores can test them, to name a few that I know do...

Advance auto partsautozoneo'reilley's auto parts

forgot to ask.... you don't have any codes right?

I used to work at an advance auto store, I learned an assload there. I suggest anyone with any automotive interest get a part time job at an auto parts store because of all the information you'll learn.

Modified by sorrowfulkiller at 9:06 PM 5/26/2009
Some serious mis-information here...

If your car just died then it is something electrical, probably ignition related, but doesn't have to be your ignition switch (think crank angle sensor or something). If it sputtered out somewhat slowly, it could be fuel, or MAF or something else that may alter timing (but not cut it out).

The base timing is NOT set by a coil... a coil is just that... a bunch of wire wrapped up in a coil, there is NO WAY a COIL can set base timing. All a coil does is step up voltage from 12 volts to about 30,000-40,000. Base timing for a KA is set mechanically at the distributor.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Pdawg wrote:The 300zx non turbo is the only compatible lsd with the same ratio as the 240? Also to use the 300z diff all you need is some j30 axles?

thanks
I got my LSD from a 180sx... direct pumpkin swap, no screwing with axles, no nothing. It was on ebay for about $300.

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Johnnie
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How do i pull the cluster?is it similar to an s14? --any writeups?

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AZ89two4Tsx
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This is for an s13, I have no idea about the s14. Just take your time. It's pretty annoying the first time, but once you've done it, it becomes easy.

You have to take off the door sills first. You'll need to pry under the sill then unscrew at the same time. Be careful not to break the screws or sill itself.

Then there's two screws on the sides, one right next to the kick panel and one on the opposite side that hold the bottom plastic piece in.

Then there's a few on the panel itself holding it together. After you take that off you should be able to take the column trim off with a few screws.

Then you'll need to drop the column itself. There will be two 14mm bolts you'll have to undo. They're in there pretty good usually and are up there a bit so you'll need an extension.

After the bolts are out, force the column down, don't worry it won't hurt anything.

Then you can remove the cluster bezel and the cluster is held in by a few screws. Make sure before you yank the cluster out that you unplug the harness.

One more thing, keep track of the screws, they're not all the same.

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sorrowfulkiller
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
Some serious mis-information here...

If your car just died then it is something electrical, probably ignition related, but doesn't have to be your ignition switch (think crank angle sensor or something). If it sputtered out somewhat slowly, it could be fuel, or MAF or something else that may alter timing (but not cut it out).

The base timing is NOT set by a coil... a coil is just that... a bunch of wire wrapped up in a coil, there is NO WAY a COIL can set base timing. All a coil does is step up voltage from 12 volts to about 30,000-40,000. Base timing for a KA is set mechanically at the distributor.
Wow, I really did say coil huh? I must've been really tired ha ha

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flip1
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I need to get 10 useful posts before I start asking questions like these... and then I will put them in the right section of the forum

Pdawg
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How much can be accomplished with a stock car (24de) with $2000, performance wise? Assuming some parts if not all could be used.. I would imagine coils, then.. i dont know.
Modified by Pdawg at 5:30 PM 5/29/2009

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PapaSmurf2k3
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that is kinda a broad questions... what condition is the car currently in? $2000 could get you some coilovers, wheels and tires, and fix some of the stuff wrong with the car.

Pdawg
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Just performance. I would like to get a rough idea becuase i have been looking at other cars 2 grand more than a 240 that perform a little better.

thanks

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PapaSmurf2k3
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you could probably beg borrow and steal your way to a cheap budget turbo setup for 2 grand... what other cars are you looking at?

Pdawg
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I know this is practically sacrelige around here, but integras, preludes..

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I have a prelude... great DD. Will this be your only car?


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