Project "Baller"

[bentvalves]

I really stressed the importance of not a Ross balancer but a new OEM pulley.

c'moon you know what happens to rubber when its 20 years old, and under the hood of a car....forget about it.

then take that rubber and cook it at 500*F, in an oven for an hour and Im sure you could imagine what might happen to its harmonic dampening capability. factual evidence is not needed, stick some rubber in the oven and see what happens to its durometer.

[r34 gtr]

I have dropped a couple hundred bucks on the laboratory-grade scale to do it.

Yeah I got lucky there, a friend of mine stole one out of the Genetics lab at his school before he graduated and bequeathed it to me. It will read out a truly disgusting amount of weight to .001g, and to boot it was calibrated right before he ganked it. Yay sketchy kleptomaniac friends!

[meminto]

Factual evidence is always required.... I dont imagine anything...

I dont care what anyone says, unless you can prove, with evidence there will be an issue, I am sticking with my powdercoated 20 year old balancer...

Hows this, you build an engine to the exact same specifiaction as mine, except you use a brand new oem balancer (if you can find one) and we will compare notes in 12 months time...

[themadscientist]

Yeah I got lucky there, a friend of mine stole one out of the Genetics lab at his school before he graduated and bequeathed it to me. It will read out a truly disgusting amount of weight to .001g, and to boot it was calibrated right before he ganked it. Yay sketchy kleptomaniac friends!

Mine only goes down to .05g you lucky bastard!

http://balance.balances.com/scales/1432/

I got that one so I could weigh the whole slug pack at once, the finer one couldn't handle the total weight. the .05 gram unit can handle 3000 grams, the .005 one only 300 grams.

http://balance.balances.com/scales/1429/

[ca18detgabby]

stupid question?

the lower side wp inlet....... its kind rusty and gross...... all the other parts are shiney and new. why?

if anyone has a simple way to fix this w/o pulling the thing apart. I could use to clean the surface rust off mine too.

really hate the idea of getting a wire brush in there but

[r34 gtr]

Good luck cleaning that thing out. Ive tried with various wire wheels when I had the engine apart and there's really little you can do.

[themadscientist]

It's pressed in, you could put a new one in there. I am contemplating an AN connection on mine but I am not sure i want to see the price of the fitting for a hole that big.

[meminto]

Yeah its a pain to clean, however you wont see it once the hose is on (plus its only surface rust.... I gotta clean up the outside a bit.. But yeah it is pressed in, very difficult to remove.. I would have liked to polish it up but oh well...

Dash 20 is the size you need if you want to go in that direction, it is only .984mm smaller in ID than the radiator in/out ID and is large enough to weld a bung onto the block inlet..

[themadscientist]

I was going to tap the block. I haven't taken a look at how much meat is in the casting there though; it looks ok in your pics. Blocks been done, I ain't comin at it with a welder. I am still trying to think of an interesting color to piant it though. I smell a thread!

[ca18detgabby]

Good luck cleaning that thing out. Ive tried with various wire wheels when I had the engine apart and there's really little you can do.

I was thinking I might take some CLR(the bath tube cleaning stuff) to it........ its worked well on the shower heads, wheels, Ics, and other things I have used it on. guess I try it less someone had a reason to steer clear of that idea?

[bentvalves]

-16 is fine for the cooling system.

I use -16 there on my car with no cooling issues.

track cars in sunny, hot california that I know of, -16 on the cooling system as well no issues.

but I guess without factual evidence, (i.e. fluidynamic flow rates?) my 2 cents mean nothing.

[meminto]

Please refrain from discussing what fittings are what in my thread, TMS asked a question in my thread, I answered based on measurements taken and flow calculations.... /end off topic

Childish remarks make you look like a tosser... As I said build an engine to my exact specification and we will compare notes, want to put your money where your mouth is?

If you are going to keep being childish, I will ask you nicely to refrain from posting in my thread anymore...

People should stop worrying about what will or won't work in my build, and worry about there own ffs...


Modified by meminto at 2:51 PM 1/24/2009

[themadscientist]

ladies, cmon, let's not be like that. There will be plenty of SR fanbois to squirt venom at. hugs

As far as the balancer goes, we have several seasoned motors about to get them. I would hope somebody would be kind enough to dyno their motor before and after the new gear, see if they picked up some power due to weight reduction and/or improved harmonic balance.

[meminto]

Hey man I agree with you... but....

The dude wants to have a go at me in my own thread, about something as pedantic as a balancer, the least he could do is bring some sort of credible information to the table, so far he has provided absolutely nothing...

[themadscientist]

I know, that is why I would like to head that off and get the discussion back on track.

Did you mention your goals for this motor. I'm lazy I admit it, don't want to go back and read.

[ca18detgabby]

I know, that is why I would like to head that off and get the discussion back on track.

Did you mention your goals for this motor. I'm lazy I admit it, don't want to go back and read.

his early guess was 700+hp on paper.......

[DALAZ_68]

i like pie...

ohh mah bad...wrong thread

[boost_boy]

Please refrain from discussing what fittings are what in my thread, TMS asked a question in my thread, I answered based on measurements taken and flow calculations.... /end off topic

Childish remarks make you look like a tosser... As I said build an engine to my exact specification and we will compare notes, want to put your money where your mouth is?

If you are going to keep being childish, I will ask you nicely to refrain from posting in my thread anymore...

People should stop worrying about what will or won't work in my build, and worry about there own ffs...

Modified by meminto at 2:51 PM 1/24/2009

I am a firm believer that everyone should travel their own paths and settle-up in the end if you want to compare your build to someone else's. Meminto, I personally have been questioned on a few things in the past and the best thing to do is not respond to anything that you don't want to respond to. I too will be using a stock balancer as I've always used one and in 13 years of playing with CA engines, I've never seen one fail. The CA enthusiasts should consider themselves fortunate that you even discuss the contents of your build because I sure as hell don't. Though I'm done with mine and have been done for nearly 6 years, I won't discuss it anymore until the engine is in the car and running and I'm definitely not in rush for that as I have other CA powered vehicles to R&D before I fire-up my very expensive build.

Remember this if nothing else "The more you tease, the greater your expectations will be to please". Almost the same as a man that's telling a woman how he's well endowed and he's going to give her the screw of a lifetime; only to get behind closed doors and be disappointing in both his endowment and his 3 minute performance and then only to follow-up with well spoken excuses (feel me).

So keep up the good work, but it's okay to keep this community and anyone else following your build in a bit of suspense as you don't owe any of us a damn thing and this is coming from a true CA enthusiast. I've been watching this thread as I watch all of them, but I don't see a need to offer any advice because it's your build "Point Blank"...........

Dee

[float_6969]

It's a weak acid IIRC, so don't leave it on there for long. Otherwise, it should work fine.

[ca18detgabby]

It's a weak acid IIRC, so don't leave it on there for long. Otherwise, it should work fine.

was that in response to me asking about the CLR?

[bentvalves]

no need to get your panties ina bunch meminto.

you wont hear from me no-more in your "baller" thread.
Modified by ks13 at 11:05 AM 1/25/2009

[meminto]

Thankyou for respecting my request...

But you know what, your right I probably over-reacted... We are an internet community based on the sharing of information, your opinion is your opinion regardless of fact, and we have a difference of opinion on this one...

I am going to say no more on the subject, feel free to keep posting your opinion or ideas in my thread, next time I will try to be a little more open to them, but one thing I do ask is please be a little more forthcoming with data, even a little snippet of information or a photo would be great...
Modified by meminto at 3:32 PM 1/25/2009

[themadscientist]

We have balls and panties in the same thread, what's going on here?

What is the a/r on the hot side of your turbo? I want to get one that comes fully on boost as quick as possible, my non-divided T4 .40 was good, the same as that or better. I am thinking a .70 divided T4 with my hi cams should come up nicely and not run out of breath.

[boost_boy]

We have balls and panties in the same thread, what's going on here?

What is the a/r on the hot side of your turbo? I want to get one that comes fully on boost as quick as possible, my non-divided T4 .40 was good, the same as that or better. I am thinking a .70 divided T4 with my hi cams should come up nicely and not run out of breath.

Hey mad, .48 gets you on boost pretty quickly, but will choke off some ponies on the high end. A .58 does well too and offers a pretty good platform for power and spoolability throughout. A .63 (What I have in my 240 and sentra) will lag and you probably won't see full boost until around 5000ish rpm, but you will have all of your power up top. A .82 is too much and you will get smoked if you decide to go this route. If you are looking for the extra ponies for dyno-queen bragging rights, there's some ponies to be had with the .82, but it comes with plenty of lag in the mid to high 6000ish range.

Dee

[themadscientist]

I am locked into a T4 flange because of my manifold, love is quickly eroding for that footprint though. I was going to bounce some ideas off you tonight via email, don't want to jack Mem's thread

[hydra]

Make of it what you will, but turbonetic's turbo sizing table/matrix shows a .68 T4 housing being used for an "efficient" 650bhp on a P-trim T4 turbine wheel. That .68 A/R mind you works out as being 11cm2 of nozzle area... (T4 A/R x 16.135 = Nozzle area in cm2)

[meminto]

Unfortunatley trust are not too forthcoming with information.. I have measurements of my own that I have taken...

My hotside A/R is 10cm2, I have found some information about mitusbishi a/r reference 10cm2=0.73 how accurate this info is, is anyones guess...

I have tried calculating th a/r using my measurements but i gave up...

[themadscientist]

Sounds about right, I would expect an 8CM in a street screw, you are definitely not building a car to pick up groceries in.

Luckily I have a twin scroll manifold which should make a big T4 housing a bit peppier. I would be happy if it started coming on boost around 5k, fully in by 6-6.5k and pull on me like a drunk chick at a party to about 8 when it starts to fall off. My 264 cams should be starting to get unhappy at those RPMS and turning out the lights. I figue the divided a/r . 70 should get it right. I don't intend to spend much time in the 9K neighborhood but just in case I'm doing the work to make it stable. I don't want to responsible for another "it blowed up" thread

[meminto]

I have no room for groceries lol, never really have...

However, I am expecting, well hoping, for my turbo to boost up before 5000rpm...

But wont know for sure until its all running... Blowing up is not an option hehehe

[hydra]

T4 housings have a radius (the R in A/R) of EXACTLY 2.5" according to the engineering drawings I've seen, and T2 housings supposedly have a radius of 50mm (I measured 48mm by eyeballing it....) . T3 housings I'm not so sure about as I wasn't able to find anything on them, but I would venture to guess that they're either 60mm or 2.25" in radius - and probably the latter... You shouldn't be converting from cm2 to A/R Meminto, it should really be the other way around as cm2 is a much more "apples to apples" means of comparing turbine housings whereas A/R is anything but! The DSM formula you're using is more a best-fit fit approximation and not strictly correct... Use these formulae instead:

T2 housings: A/R x 12.7 = cm2T3 housings: A/R x (either 14.52 or 15.24) = cm2T4 housings: A/R x 16.13 = cm2

PS - I'd REALLY be grateful if somebody were to measure a T3 exhaust housing for me!