Corey240's Big SR Project Q&A Thread

[corey240]

ok heres whats going on. i just talked to the guy from the machine shop that did my rods and pistons together, it was my fault about this. but when i got the pistons inside of it was a small markerd number 1-4 in them, so naturaly i just matched thos numbers up to the stamped number on the rods. long story short he said he will swap the number 1 piston onto the number 4 rod and the number 4 piston onto the number 1 rod which saying that now the grade # 1 piston will be on rod #1 and the order will be fixed.

[corey240]

rebuilding motor, what should i use. i have this orange gasket sealer that i had but i gota tear my oil pan and front cover off again today to fix the timing chain so befor i use this i want to make shore its ok. if not what should i use? can i get it an an autoparts store? the fsm says to use authentic liquid gasket. i got permex or somthing like that from advanced auto that is orange.

[9240sx]

I used the gray RTV when i did my rebuild..

[corey240]

thats what seems to be the thing to do so i guess thats what il get. thanks!

[Rosco]

I used the black tube (RTV) for my oil pan....No leaks for a year and a half so far.

[karmakaze]

black or red RTV is what I use. black is probably better as it is more oil resistant you also can't go wrong with OEM brand gasket maker.

[killablue240]

i bought a bottle of red high temp sealer and used it when i rebuilt the motor on everything, no leaks. it was 12 dollars for a aerosol bottle, so no squeezing just hold a little lever and it flows smoothly.

[corey240]

how hard wouldit be to remove the head off the motor whil its in the back with everything bolted to it? what would need to be removed to do this?

[NoStickers]

lol I've done it 4+ times. it almost seems really easy now but just like everything else, the first time you do it itll be a pain in the ***. i have a top mounted turbo so i dont know how much of a difference that makes it but i just disconect the dp from the rest of the exhaust and pull out the exahust manifold, etc. with the head. for the intake mani you can leave a lot of the lines etc conected to it. you just need to get all the main bolts. what sticks out in my mind atm is the hoses on the back of the engine that connect to the block but have a bracket that connect to the head. if you dont disconnect the bracket the head wont go anywhere. once you have both manifolds off, pop the top. pull the cams and make sure you hold onto the timing chain giving it tension. i actually hooked some bungee cords to my cieling and onto the chain to keep it tight. id be a little more specific yet my block is being worked on so i dont have anything to look at. if you have specific questions im sure i can remember what i did.

[corey240]

i think the wires may be wrong on the speedometer sensor on my s14. it has a redtop sr so the harness is all different and i dont know what it would normaly look like. i tihnk its wrong because the red wire coming from the sensor is connected to a black wrie which in its own obviousness usualy isnt a power wire, so what i am needing is a picture of the thing.

could anybody with an s14 with s13 sr take a pic of theres and the color wires that comes from it, mainly sombody that has a working speedo. and if not could sombody with one just go look under there car at the speedo sensor and see what colo wires connect to what? i might have an sr transmission meaning my speedo already wouldnt work with the sr sensor, but i might have a ka sensor and it just doesnt work cuz of messed up wiring. anything would help.

[corey240]

do you just put the end of the tube back into the block?or does it need somthing put into it? do i just get it pounded back in there?

and the tube at the top f a bare block, thats like really inthere, it got a little crimped, can i just swap one form my other motor or will it be ok?

[corey240]

anybody?

[DuckyD]

When I accidently pulled my tube out, I just stuck some RTV at the end of the tube and shoved it back in there. Good as new.

[corey240]

i cant get mine to go back in all the way, it stops like a quarter inch from the flat plat that sits on the block.

[S13FASTBACKSR]

cant picture exactly how much room there is but can you fit a rubber hammer in there to tap it or rap a rag around a hammer and tap it in with that? got it lubed up too?

[superDorifto]

it just presses back in there...use a long screw driver or a long 1/4 in drive extension and a hammer to pound that sucker back in...fits tight enough that you shouldnt need any rtv, but if it makes you more comfortable go for it

[Morph]

cant picture exactly how much room there is but can you fit a rubber hammer in there to tap it or rap a rag around a hammer and tap it in with that? got it lubed up too?

If faries had rubber hammers then sure. But theres not enough room, using a flathead screwdriver w/ a cloth or some thing to cushion it.

[S13FASTBACKSR]

[corey240]

trying to sell all my extras, there in good condition. how much would 1 set of 2 be worth?

[killablue240]

new at the car part store they sell for 50 to 150 dollars each depending on brand.

[corey240]

they are oem.

[IanS]

what speed sensor are you using, if its an S14 chasis and an S13 motor then you need to use the S14 speed sensor, Id go look at mine but I didnt have the plug for the S14 sensor so I just solderd the wire right onto the pins

[rplongisland]

sr brackets?

[corey240]

yes

[corey240]

im assembling my motor and befor i stick my head on i want to know this, i put the timing chain on to what the fsm said, now 1 time it fell off so i got paranoid that if it isnt like the fsm it will explode. so i took the front cover and oil pans off to fix the problem. so i put the chain back on and re did the cover and pans...

would it make a difference if the gold link or w/e one it is comes off the chain or moves a link or 2 over? what should i do whan i flip my motor back around to put my head on?its upside down now, but i dont want to flip it over and the chain come off and have to take it apart again to fix it, this is such a pita but atleast my motor will have 0 miles on it when done

[corey240]

anybody?

[corey240]

so is this question that stupid?

[Hijacker]

meh. the FSM is all weird about the order to do that job in. I prefer to get the head on THEN put the chain on. That way I can be certain that nothing is falling in weird places.

That link really really needs to be on the marked tooth. If it gets off a few teeth and you line the cams up to the marked links on top, your motor will decide that it would much like to have the valves meet the piston heads in a fun, mosh pit sort of way.

I know this will be a PITA, but pull the oil pan back off, pull the front cover off and relign the chain. Then put your head on, get the cams on with the links matched up to their respective marked teeth on the cam gears, then put the front timing cover and oil pan on. The FSM tells you to put the cover on first to avoid smushing that little portion of the headgasket.

A little note to help you with getting the front cover on after the head is on. If you leave the spacer on the crankshaft snout, you'll tear up that bit of headgasket that seals between the front cover and head. Take the oil spacer off the crank to give you some play room. and then put the spacer in.

[corey240]

THANK YOU! so would it be easier if i had a cometic hg? because il be picking it up tomorow, but if it doesnt get in the shop tomorow then im gona use a stock one. but if the crank shaft is at tdc, and the cams are set in the right spot, why would it amter what chain link is on what tooth? or am i missing somthing here?

it just confuses me why that specific link has to be at that exact tooth on the crank, wouldnt there be the same amount of links every other way? i do know if the crank and cams are off each otherthen the pistons could possibly hit the valves? so would you making the chain links at the specifid marks just be a smart precaution to be positive it wont be off on the timing? thanks for the help though.

[ILikeMy240sx]

BTW, your front cover has a stopper right by the crank sprocket to prevent the chain from coming off the tooth once its engaged. Believe me when I say this because I have seen it and the stopper works.

I have swapped the head many times and just let the chain fall down the cover. It always stays at the same spot because of the stopper.

I prefer to do it the FSM way (put the front cover on then the head) because its a pain in the *** to put the front cover on with the HG hanging out. My friend bent the chit out of his cometic HG by doing this.

The gold link has to be on the crank sprocket at the exact location because you want to align your cams with reference to that point by lining up your cams to the dark colored links. You can do the teeth counting method but the colored links make it MUCH easier if things are installed correctly.