Corey240's Big SR Project Q&A Thread

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redtop91
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Not trying to thread jack but ILikeMy240sx, you mentioned disconnecting the CAS and cranking until the idiot light disappears? That light stays on on my 240 even after filling the oil back up. Will doing that fix that light? Or is there a oil pump problem?


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corey240
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sorry about that, pics up now, forgot to post it.

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corey240
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btw, would an sr20de fwd clutch work in an sr?

Edit: what shoyuld i tq the flywheel bolts and clutch too?
Modified by corey240 at 7:09 PM 4/9/2007

ILikeMy240sx
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90% of the time, if I sit there and crank the chit out of it, the light does go off eventually.

Sometimes the light will not go off tho. Ive had this happen to me when I did the turbo swap. I had an aftermarket oil pressure gauge so I just decided to start it up anyways because I can see precisely what the oil pressure is. And when it did start up, it was fine.

If your light isnt going off, I would hook up an oil pressure gauge and start it so that way you know for sure you are getting the proper pressure after you start.

Or, you can gamble and start it anyways and see what happens.

P.S. normall, people tap off the FRP vac line and run the boost signal line from there. So cut the vac line going to the FPR and put a y or t in it and run the line to your cockpit.

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redtop91
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ILikeMy240sx wrote:Or, you can gamble and start it anyways and see what happens.
LOL I definitely just start it anyways as it is my daily. I bought a pressure gauge because it was worrying me though.

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corey240
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ILikeMy240sx wrote:P.S. normall, people tap off the FRP vac line and run the boost signal line from there. So cut the vac line going to the FPR and put a y or t in it and run the line to your cockpit.
could you get a pic of a motor, or even yours and show me which line that is? im confused on which one that is.

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redtop91
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On mine there is a fitting that runs from the FPR from the intake manifold. I T'd that connection.

ILikeMy240sx
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your FPR is attached to your fuel rail and has the return fuel line attached to it. Just follow the fuel line from the filter (feed line) to the fuel rail then go to the opposite side of the fuel rail and you will see the FPR thats connected to the return line. Now you will see a vac line attached to it.

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corey240
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like at the back side of the fuel rail? the l shaped thing coming from the fuel rail? btw ddi yuo figure out what that hose is under my intake mani in that other tread? also, the heater hose that goes around the back of the motor, which part does it connect to on the fire wall? theres 2 things coming out of the firewall they could connect to, would the long one go to the top or bottom firewall thing?

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efrain240sx
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I think it gos to the throttle body, for that whole running warm water so the throttle body wont stick. I think thats whats it for

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mrzabala
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Man, I just finished figuring out all the lines behind and under the intake manifold 2 days ago. Ill check in the morning and give you my reply. Possible picture included.

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mrzabala
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Alright Im pretty certain its this:

I had the same hose with the hose cushion and I decided to replace it since I had extra hose. Pretty much from the small nipple outlet, thats attached to the housing water hose going toward the back of the engine and into an available heater core, to the lower part of the throttle body. The fsm has it so theres circulated water going through the throttle body and back.

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corey240
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thanks thats perfect.

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mrzabala
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Hey corey, your welcome. I sent you an email btw.

exode
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Brake booster is just a vacuum line by the way

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Hijacker
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To make it easier to watch Corey's progress and to keep track of all of his questions, I merged his threads asking questions concerning his rebuild.

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mrzabala
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Great work! I was shocked my reply was here, but now I know why. Hehehehe.

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corey240
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tenkawa_akito wrote:To make it easier to watch Corey's progress and to keep track of all of his questions, I merged his threads asking questions concerning his rebuild.
thanks alot! i would have already done this but im way to buisy with this motor. i got it in today, i will tell all this. it is not fun puting a motor in a car by yourself, in wet grass. yes i did it, in fact i was gona record it on tape to prove it but i thought who the hell would watch it?

anyway, heres a question/problem. when i put the clutch on, we couldnt get the bell housing to go all the way on. so it would be like an inch away from the motor, so my friend said just bolt the bolts on and it will come together. now, i was puting the motor back to tdc and theres this clicking sound coming from the motor. wtf is that noise? we cant figure out where its coming from, im worried i screwed the clutch up. or is this just beacause theres no oil in it yet?

im gona be puting oil in, and my battery tomorow, we will see what happens. il be recording the initial first try incase something goes really wrong, this way if somthing does go wrong, i wont have to explain it. it will jsut be there in living colors im praying nothign goes wrong though. i did everything by the fsm. btw, when i post the video up, dont mind the messy wiring. i cleaned up the harness a week ago because hravythrotle did it for the original owner and it looks like a 12 year old did it, well once i got the motor in, things were all outa place. i hope it doesnt come to this tomorow

EDIT: I guess i can show wha ti got done today...can you say, "Ninja Turtles"?



Oh yea, i was under the car trying to get the transmission to line up, and i hear a rooster hooting. so i get up and look beside me. this little bastard made me bust my eye off the jack holdiing the transmission. i had to chace him off and took this pic in the process.

Where it came from. i dont know. but it scared the **** outa me, however he did help. because when i was moving outf rom under the car i bumper the jack and the transmission went in place

Modified by corey240 at 6:26 PM 4/11/2007
Modified by corey240 at 6:29 PM 4/11/2007

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mrzabala
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I assumed that you had your transmission installed while your engine was out. It makes life much easier this way. Putting in the bolts before having the transmission against the engine is very risky, especially since the main drive gear sticks out into the flywheel. This could/may mess up the eveness of the diaphragm spring which is limited to .7mm or something else.

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FSUDrifter
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Don't know if anyone still needs this info, but it's good: http://srswap.com/faq/index.asp#startup

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corey240
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ao i tryed tos tart it u this morning. all it did was make the sound of the fuel filling up the motor. then the battery died, so i just went to check the wires and the alt plug wires borke so i just got done fixing that, also. the check oil light does not come on. so what makes that light come on, like wheres the sensor? would it be the one wire coming from the oil filter block? if sombody could call me thats knows all the harness and sr well, the number is 1-240-727-8643. if needed to know, its an s14 kouki with a redtop sr. sombody please help with this.

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FSUDrifter
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the oil idiot light sensor is up and to the left of the oil filter, it's just one wire going to it. if it comes unplugged the light stays on i think. just feel your oil filter and should be right up to the left.

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redtop91
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What is the case when the idiot light comes on when the ignition is set to on (Fuel pump priming stage) and then disappears when the engine cranks? 3.5 L of fresh 10-30W and a new filter were just put in.

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corey240
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we tryed to get the motor running today. il post a vid of it here. we got it running, very rough. you will hear it. btw, the exhaust is leaking form the turbo/manifold a lil for now. anyway, theres 1. a loud clicking coming from the motor. what would that be from? I noticed it was coming fromt he front of the motor more then anything, i dont know what it could be. youl hear it. if you listen to the background noise more you can hear the clicking, kinda like the injectors when they click.

then theres still that clicking coming from somwhere, it sounds the same form the front and back of the motor, its only when you turn the motor manuely which you will also see in the movie. also, after the last time the motor was on, it just stoped. i went out and bought brand new spark plugs and you will see at the very end of the movie what happend to them, they are just black coverd. what would have done that? now the motor wont start at all and just clicks. i mean, when ever it was revved up it was getting barely any boost presure, which you can notice. theres no leaks.

and befor you start saying i shouldnt have been revving it like that, it was started up and idled for a few minutes and cooled blah blah blah befor that off camera. i just did it to see how high it took to get the pressure to build, the bov wouldnt go off until like 5k, used to be like 3. i also have this stock exhaust on which is a 2 1/2" with a stock cat and muffler. listen close to the vid and try and diagnose this as to wt is wrong mith this motor, and why it only makes the starter click now and wont do anything mroe now after it running ok then.and now, the video.

http://videos.streetfire.net/v...3.htm


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redtop91
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Vid isn't up quite yet.

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corey240
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its optimizing i know, wana play some gangster halo?

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redtop91
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I'm effing stuck at work. You have no idea how pissed I am right now.

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corey240
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lol, im going to bed as soon as this is done optomiingzingmizingzing

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FSUDrifter
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have you checked your fuel pressure?

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leroiboy
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hmmm..., it's still not done yet. im anxious to see it. hopefully you'll find the problem. i'll be ready to start mine up in about a week and can learn somthing from you


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