Corey240's Big SR Project Q&A Thread

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corey240
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Base Drift Machine
Location: Cumberland, MD

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thats perfect. thanks for the help. i guess il pull my oil pan and front cover tomorow 1 last time to be 100% shore its on right.


ILikeMy240sx
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OH BTW, you can leave the bottom oil pan off and make sure that the chain on the crank sprocket didnt jump because you can see it from below.

Just mark the link and the sprocket with whiteout so you can see it from underneath.

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corey240
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Base Drift Machine
Location: Cumberland, MD

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could i just throw a head on there and see if everything lines up instead of pulling all the stuff off again? i never thought of marking the stuff, il remember that for next time. thanks

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corey240
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do you put gasket sealer on both sides of the head gasket or like, put it on the top of the block then put it on the gasket then put the head on?

killablue240
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Car: sr powered s13 coupe, 1991 twin turbo 300zx

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head gaskets do not require sealant maybe just a little toward the front of the head where the front cover goes.

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otterman
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I sprayed copper spray on both sides of the gasket then put it on the block and put the head on

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corey240
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you can see the tube there in the picture, on the turbo side of the motor at the back i think. on mine it is a little crushed and bent. would it be ok or should i do my best to open it back up and un-bend it?

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corey240
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anybody?

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mrzabala
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Car: 93 Nissan 240SX SE Hatch

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Its for your stock oil catch can. I would just try unbend it and open it as round and best as possible. When I checked mine, it looked like it would be a hard to do even with a torch but give it a try. Heres what it will look like


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corey240
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i cant find them in the fsm, maybe im missing them or looking too hard? either way i cant find them. heres how far iv got on my motor.

DrifterProdigy85
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Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx (Zenki Onevia)

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I never torque any of the Intake or Exhaust Bolts/Studs. I just snug them down in a opposite sequence and then tighten them by hand. Never broke anything, never had leaks.

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corey240
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ok thats what il do then for the intake bolts atleast, btw. how did you not break into 12's with your setup?

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S13FASTBACKSR
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Car: '92 Fastback SR powered

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same here I just tighten them with a breaker bar and I never have leaks either..no need to torque them..by the way are you saying you didnt think the 2871r could get into the 12's or are you asking how did he do it such as what tires and other mods?

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corey240
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you can see the last injector cape is polished, i know the injectors are on backwards too. the caps are really nice, just gota get them turned around.

the motor is at tdc, i checked it about 90 times and its all good. just gota get the outlet tube on, alt and get it in, then il finish getting the little things on. any advice for when i put the motor back in? also, is there anything specific i gota do when puting the flywheel and clutch back on? like a special tool or somthing?

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leroiboy
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Car: 1989 Nissan 240SX Coupe
Location: Atlanta,GA.

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im inexperienced, but i just dropped mine in last wknd. the motor mounts are kinda of a beyotch. you should just use an alignment tool for assembling your clutch back, although i can sometimes just eyeball it and get it on in there. also, those two tubes are your for water lines that go through your firewall(i ordered the retrofit hoses for that from hybridynamics).


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SlipnSliden 240
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Some people need to get away from a computer. 2000+ post and lack the common sense to understand the location of those tubes.


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corey240
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ok i have my motor together now, getting ready to finish getting little things on it and put it in. is there a process to do when starting up a fresh built motor?

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S13FASTBACKSR
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make sure you dont forget the oil and coolant and when it starts up let it warm up obviously and i would put it at the correct timing before driving.

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corey240
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should i let it run and warm up , set the timing, then re-do the fluids again to get any crap cleaned out tha tamy be in there? dont know what could be in there but i figured it wouldnt hurt. also, what oil should i use? im using whatever i can get from advanced auto until i can get the good stuff, like what weight should i use? same thing with transmission fluid?

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jr_ss
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I would cycle the motor, meaning: start it up and bring it up to temp, while doing this make sure the engine timing is right, that there are no leaks and generally everything is good to go. Shut it off and let it cool down, then start it up idle it and let it come back up to temp. Do this a few times. I would use some crap 10w-30 for breaking it in, something not too ****ty, but not top of the line stuff. You'll end up changing it again after 500miles anyway.. Good luck, have patience and well do some research on proper break-in procedure/techniques for motors...

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Hijacker
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Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

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I usually run break in oil for about 500 miles then change the oil. Repeat again after another 500 miles.

One thing you may want to do when you start her up for the first time is allow the oil pump to prime. I usually take care of that during assembly by loading the pump up with petroleum jelly. It helps maintain a prime and the jelly dissolves in the oil.

I've never had a motor not build oil pressure on initial startup, even the ones that have been sitting for a while and are getting their first startup without a priming crank. But just watch your oil light on startup and make sure it doesn't stay on.

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corey240
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ok thanks people. il have a video of the first attemp startup and do a run around of the engine bay and post it for you all to bask in my glory

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Sabot
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I'll be doing the samething soon we'll stay posted

ser2102
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i forgot where i read it, but what i did was disconnect the CAS and crank the engine in intervals of 10 seconds to prime the engine with oil. do that a few times then plus the CAS back in a fire er up. mine fired up in the first second woot.

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redtop91
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^ I don't know where I found that out from but that is what I was going say. Lubes the motor.

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corey240
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Location: Cumberland, MD

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its under the intake mani, does it go to the back of the motor or the front?


Modified by corey240 at 6:41 PM 4/9/2007

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corey240
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thanks for that one.

ILikeMy240sx
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You dont want to start your motor right away.

As someone already mentioned, disconnect your CAS plug (this will disable fuel injectors and spark) and crank your motor until the oil light goes off on your dash. If you have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge, the pressure reading should read above 8 psi as that is the switch point for the stock sensor.

ILikeMy240sx
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any pics? There are alot of hoses underneath the intake mani.

Are you talking about the coolant lines?

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corey240
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Location: Cumberland, MD

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i need to get an oil pressure gauge, whil im at it. where should i tape my lines for my boost gauge? it came with that hard plastic tube crap, but im gona get regular black silicone tubing. i searched and ti said it was ok to tap the line for the bov? does that mean just stick a t fitting in the line going into my bov (hks ss)?


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