Corey240's Big SR Project Q&A Thread

[corey240]

this is rediculously taking a long time.

[corey240]

i just checked for codes and now the car wont do anything, no fuses blown, starter is good, battery is good. whenever i try to start it, it just clicks and does nothing. the code i got now is 13 for coolant temp sensor. what would that be? earlier i swear it was giving me like a code 23, or 33. but i dont have any emissions stuff on my motor either. what kidna things should i look at to be able to trn it over?

[FSUDrifter]

coolant temp sensor, above the water neck for the upper radiator hose. there are 2, one for the cluster, one for the ecu. The one for the ecu is on the left and has a 2-wire plug. $25 from frsport.com

[corey240]

i just got done working on the car. the starter was all messed up so it stayed stuck out. thats what the clicking was from hand cranking and whil the motor was on. now it wont turn over, its like its not getting any spark or somthing. also, theres this smoke that starts coming from the turbo area, wtf would that be from? my friend said it was coming form down under the turbo area. it stoped whenever stoped cranking it.

[mrzabala]

The smoke would most likely be liquid like oil, coolant or brake fluid landing in the manifold down pipe area. It will evaporate and cause lots of smoke. You shouldn't worry about it. Check your spark plugs, fuel injectors, and fuel lines (sometimes it could be crossed), and fuel pump. Start one area at a time like fuel related, than air, than power source- basics..

[corey240]

injectors were cleaned befor, fuel pump is walbro, sparkplugs are new. im goa swap fpr to another i have. im gona fix the engine ground too, from block to firewall. its not working i guess.

[leroiboy]

hey, not to thread jack here, but corey i gotta quick question: did you use any of the stock/factory boost regulator valves or and of those solenoids? thanks

[corey240]

i guess, i know i didnt change anything like that.

[corey240]

my ecu is saying a code 13, would my coolant temp sensor be making my car not start? iv got 2 more sets of thos sensors, should i swap them around?

[IDriveFords]

It's extremely ez to check for spark. Pull one of the coils, leave the plug in the cyl, put a long handled screwdriver inside the coil where it normally sits on the injector. Hold the screwdriver handle DO NOT TOUCH THE METAL PART OR YOU'LL GET ZAPPED, angle the screwdriver and touch part of it to the NISSAN writing on the valve cover since its bare metal. You need another person to sit in the car and turn the key very very breifly for maybe a second or so and you should get a spark arching from the screwdriver to the writing on the valve cover. Don't be afraid as long as your holding a long screwdriver with a well insulated handle you won't get zapped just don't crank for any period of time. You can check all the coils like this to see if you got spark. If your not getting spark chances are you got a problem further up in the harness maybe ignitor chip, wiring, or ecu. Timing will also cause no spark or delayed spark. I think the firing order for the SR is 1,3,2,4. Check cyl#1 first, if your not getting spark there move to 3 and if you don't get spark there then you probably don't have spark at all.

[corey240]

alreaddy knew all that, but thanks anyway. now im confused. i got the car running ok today, except theres a problem. the car trys to start, but it wont, because it floods. now, this never ever did this befor, the only different thing i upgraded on the fuel system or anything at all is the 300zx fuel filter. what happens is, i try to start the car, it floods. btw, IM RUNNING A WALBRO FUEL PUMP, now the car doesnt start, so i gota pull the fuse for the fuel pump.

then i crank the motor over and it starts and runs it self out of what fuel was left in there. Whenever you upgrade the fuel pump, you gota let it load up befor cranking. well, after buring out the flooded fuel, i put the fuse back in. then instead of waiting i just immediatly crank the motor and give it some gas and not wait for the fuel to load, it starts after a couple seconds. what would this be from? how can i fix it?

also, i noticed theres white smoke coming from the exhaust, whats that from? anyody please help.Alos btw, iv got like no boost at all. i hooked up the gauge and its not getting any pressure. the bov wont go off until like 5500rpms, whats the from now? i dont see how my turbo is going out because it worked fine befor the motor blew it was on.AND, now im getting a very tiny backfire after letting off a rev after 3k.
Modified by corey240 at 4:50 PM 4/14/2007

[corey240]

anybody?

[leroiboy]

i know you said you checked the timing numerous times previously, but that's kinda what it sounds like to me. but the fuel is puzzling me as well. sorry i don't have a specific answer. but hey, im learning along with you

[corey240]

timing is perfect, im loading up a video now showing the horrible boost pressure build, the stock t25 used to be full boost at like 3k with a 3" exhaust and like 3500 with a stock exhaust im using now, im barely getting the bov to go off at like 5500.

[leroiboy]

alrighty then. maybe vacuum related?-because i would think white smoke may be a result of the fuel flooding problem you said you were having(highly doubt it is indicative of a hg gone on your newly built sr). the turbo should be fine because it most likely would spit black smoke out the pipe

[corey240]

heres the link to the new vid, still optimizing so lets hope this one doesnt take 24 hours again.

http://videos.streetfire.net/v...1.htm

[corey240]

nobody has any idea why my motor is flooding?

[corey240]

i just test drove the car, its not boosting at all, should i hook up my 3" exhaust and see if its just the exhaust slowing the spool down? i cant figure this out, theres no boost leaks anywhere. what would make me no be boosting?

[corey240]

ok well after extensive searching i came up with i may have had a bad fpr or injector o-ring, so i just swaped my fuel rial with another one completely. problem solved, the motor used to rock back and forth like a monster truck. now, it runs smooth as glass and doesnt move. but still, i have to pull the fuel pump fuse and get the extra gas out of the cylinders then start it. think the fule filter is the cause of this? im gona put a stock one back on and see if it solvs that, im running a 300zx one now, i figure i dont need that considering im running stock injectors,mafs but have walbro fuel pump.

[corey240]

well i had this motor from april 07 to november of 07 i do say thats not so bad for my first build. ol girl went out with a bang literaly having to find my rod in the street. then i bought another motor and it spun a bearing within a month . so now im onto another build, ive had my flywheel resurfaced and i got my crank back from the shop. i have bearings at the shop i work at which are rods and mains, now for questions.

1. should i replace the thrust bearings?

2. should i replace the rings?

3. and can i set my timing without installing the front cover?

the thustys dont really look bad. and i have to replace a rod because i lost a small piece where the bearing rests so i gota remove the head but i striped a headstud but i got it coverd. whil ol girls apart il put my arps headstuds in and maybe my nismo crankbolts from the last motor. if the rings are within spec will it be ok to let them go? i need my car and im short on money from not working because of a surgery i recently had.

also, i have a spec stage 1 clutch and a very nice hks pressure plate, id rather use the hks pressure plate but i cant find the specific disk that goes to it, can i use one from another company?

just so you all know i figured out alot of problems and were all strange because for one reason or another stuff just stoped being wrong lol. thanks for the help glade to be back on nico, no computer = hard to help.