y33 idle jerk / hesitation discussion (lets fix this!!)

[swak1971]

Ok guys! so I was reading your posts about the stumblinh and jerk when the 97 q45 is idling.I got my 97 q45 about 6 months ago.Some dude did not take care of it and i have been doin my own work on it such as brakes,plugs,filter changes and changing oil every 3 months. Anyway, my check engine light comes on and sometimes blinks when on the road and idling.I have just started getting a frequent hesitation when idling.It happens once and awhile and then like two or three stumbles in a row. This car runs really well except for this new problem.So i read knock sensors and MAF possibilities.Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks

[ukatfan4]

so i didn't get the miss/convultions fixed and am getting about 8 miles to the gallon now
water pump went out today and i think i'm gonna just part it out. not really what i want to do, but don't want to keep throwing money at this gremlin. coils would be next, but i've seen that thats not the ultimate fix either. holler if you want anything
[email protected]

[swak1971]

My infiniti only runs bad on fulltank of gas and engine light goes off at quarter tank? I cleaned MAF,Throttle body,changed plugs,and even use premium gas with an occasional Chevron injector cleaner.The weird oart is that my Q45 hesitates when I punch the gas and then it idols crappy at stop light. Now that i have the tank down to quarter of a tank the engine light is off now and it runs like something was cleaned out of injectors.Is this a sign of a bad injector? what do you guys think of this, and what is your input?

[mjs1021]

hey guys I have a 2000 q45 99K on it the past month or so i've had a flutter with the idle when at a stop light when the car is in drive....ive changed the fuel filter and had the spark plugs checked but still the flutter and the mech can not find a code because the check engine light does not come on... is the answer to this problem to change a coil or all the coils? if anyone could get back to me or email me at [email protected] it was be greatly appreciated.. thanks

p.s. i have the Q for almost 2 years..changed struts, radiator, lower control arms, power steering pump & rack and pinon....is there anything else i should be looking foward to?..lol...i love the car but this car loves my pockets more....is there anything i should change now before more headaches come? thanks again

[paranoidjack]

same thing I have to do this week, pull coil packs and ohm them.

Fortunately I have an extra engine with 8 coil packs in the driveway!

[maxnix]

h the mech can not find a code because the check engine light does not come on... is the answer to this problem to change a coil or all the coils? if anyone could get back to me or email me at [email protected] it was be greatly appreciated.. thanks

p.s. i have the Q for almost 2 years..changed struts, radiator, lower control arms, power steering pump & rack and pinon....is there anything else i should be looking foward to?..lol...i love the car but this car loves my pockets more....is there anything i should change now before more headaches come? thanks again

No mention of IAC valve nor EGR valve. Personally, I chased bad coils for months replacing one at a time. Best solution is to replace all at once I am afraid. They are a wear item, and when one goes, the others soon follow.

Some codes do not trigger a CEL, so your "mechanic" is wrong not to read the ECU fault codes. Working with non factory trained specialist techs on these cars is very problematic unless they are very good top certified ASE techs, understand they don't know everything and have access to your FSM, and you must know more than they do about the vehicle.

[JOHNQ]

scan it or wait for the ses to tell you whats wrong in my experience if it hesitates bad enough for it to stall the engine while youre driving then it could be more that the coils and maybe youre maf

[TommyTank]

Just to confirm the misfire or "bump" at idle that disappears above ~1200RPM was the ignition coils on my 2000 Q. It started really small and slowly became more pronounced over a six month time. I replaced all 8 and she runs as good as new. I ohmed out all of the packs, half were in the 590 ohm range and half were 620, pretty minor and well within 10%. All of the new ones were ~590.

[orthotist]

Guys, I need to know what kind of plugs you are running I have a theory about our problems!!! I need to know what kind of plugs all of you are running in your stumbling Q45?? I have the bosch platnum plus'

I have the plusestar plugs in and have about 50,000 miles on them and I'm just starting to get that "Stumble".

[Mint Q45A]

I haven't read all the comments on this thread, but based on some of the symptoms....Could the issue be MAF related? If so, I want to share an experience I had with my car...just in case. It may be worth giving it a try....

post6330540.html#p6330540

[maxnix]

MAF connectors is more likely than the MAF hot wires themselves.

[TommyTank]

Two tanks of gas ran through the 2000 Q on new ignition coils and I have not felt a bump/jerk/misfire. Replacing all 8 coils took about an hour start to finish. MPG may have a 1-2 MPG bump, but it's nominal. Attended a funeral this weekend out in the sticks of north central Texas and I still think it's hard to find a better cruiser than a Q.

[willko1]

2000 y33 106K. having stumble at idle both in gear and out No Codes via OBD handheld. Steps taken today that DID NOT FIX IT. Cleaned MAF contacts Dialectic grease and removed MAF cleaned sealed and reinstalled, Checked battery 12.9v, soldered battery terminal connectors and cleaned, Removed and cleaned Idle air Control valve plunger (did not test it don't know how). Ran bottle of Sea Foam though brake booster, sprayed TB cleaner into TB, Sprayed out Cam pos sensor plug, Cleaned off Ambient Air temp sens, Reassembled all with attention to detail.

[maxnix]

You have to have codes, or the reader is a basic one only. Keep looking and start shopping for coil packs. I got mine at FCP Groton a little cheaper than Joe.

[maxnix]

Guys, I need to know what kind of plugs you are running I have a theory about our problems!!! I need to know what kind of plugs all of you are running in your stumbling Q45?? I have the bosch platnum plus'

I have the plusestar plugs in and have about 50,000 miles on them and I'm just starting to get that "Stumble".

Wrong plugs on both counts! Bosch have been noted to destroy VH series engines.

Use only the factory prescribed NGK!

[maxnix]

Guys, I need to know what kind of plugs you are running I have a theory about our problems!!! I need to know what kind of plugs all of you are running in your stumbling Q45?? I have the bosch platnum plus'

I have the plusestar plugs in and have about 50,000 miles on them and I'm just starting to get that "Stumble".

Wrong plugs on both counts! Bosch is known to destroy VH series engines. Maybe that's why he is no longer on here.

Use only the factory prescribed NGK!

[willko1]

You have to have codes, or the reader is a basic one only. Keep looking and start shopping for coil packs. I got mine at FCP Groton a little cheaper than Joe.

I had codes when I ran without MAF it was the MAF code and knock code after oil change both intermittent.

[maxnix]

Get an OBD II reader that can read stored codes like P0235 etc.

Start another thread with the codes if you must. They are pretty self explanatory in the FSM, noting that the codes are only a guide for a good technician who can use them in diagnosing the real underlying problem.

[willko1]

Get an OBD II reader that can read stored codes like P0235 etc.

Start another thread with the codes if you must. They are pretty self explanatory in the FSM, noting that the codes are only a guide for a good technician who can use them in diagnosing the real underlying problem.

Have OBD II, it does read stored codes. Got Knock code bank 1 today after oil change.

[maxnix]

Then Ohm test it at the secondary connector and report back. If it is not 550K Ohm, you need to read the Paranoidjack under plenum threads. It is not a whole lot of fun, but nevertheless necessary task.

[Jay97240Sx]

Changed all 8 coil packs today and my 99 is still missing like crazy. It jerks alot especially when i put it in reverse. Could one the injectors be bad ? It all started out with the occasional stumble at idle, then it went to full missing and shaking the car at idle 2 weeks ago. The car also feels down on power when i drive it. The only code i have is for the purge control valve. Any suggestions ?

[maxnix]

Purge Control Valve? There are two PCV (one on each bank) that are plastic. Have you replaced them?

[Jay97240Sx]

Purge Control Valve? There are two PCV (one on each bank) that are plastic. Have you replaced them?

no its the vapor canister check valve i meant to say, sorry.

[maxnix]

I think the canister only comes as an assembly.

[willko1]

2000 y33 106K. having stumble at idle both in gear and out No Codes via OBD handheld. Steps taken today that DID NOT FIX IT. Cleaned MAF contacts Dialectic grease and removed MAF cleaned sealed and reinstalled, Checked battery 12.9v, soldered battery terminal connectors and cleaned, Removed and cleaned Idle air Control valve plunger (did not test it don't know how). Ran bottle of Sea Foam though brake booster, sprayed TB cleaner into TB, Sprayed out Cam pos sensor plug, Cleaned off Ambient Air temp sens, Reassembled all with attention to detail.

y33 q45 2000 107k. The Intermittent Stumble at idle with AC on or off Saga continues, Still No Repeating/No Codes.
Replaced Air Tube Insulator part#16523-31U00.
Replaced Fuel Filter with OEM it was bad bad bad all sorts of black crap came out, I ran it for 15miles and still the idle stumble continues.
Replaced Air Filter OEM.
Replaced all the spark plugs later in the day with OEM NGK PFR6B-11 sent via Joe, this did not fix the problem but I noticed at first the idle was high 1000rpms then settled to 750 then to around 625-650rpm.
Reassembled and cleaned plus dialectic greased all contacts.
Ran OHM test on all ignition coils (they are OEM Nissan) not sure the whole ohm range thing but I followed the book page 404 EC and got ohm reading through pin 2 and 3 on all coils, all OHM in same range, that would lead me to believe they are all good?
Valve covers are OK no oil in plug holes.
Had battery tested OK.
Had Alt tested OK.
Not sure what else I can do except
Have some PCV valves on order.
EGR valve test next if I can figure it out.
Replace Knock sensor and pull intake and clean EGR tube.
Check fuel Pump Pressure?
Any Suggestions?

Took it out this evening and ran it on the interstate for a bit thinking that it may clear up the injectors if possible it still stumbled after the 80mph 10 miles but I noticed that when it stumbles it also dims the interior lights dash etc but beams look ok any ideas?

[Jay97240Sx]

What about injectors ? im wondering if a clogged injector could be contributing to this.

2000 y33 106K. having stumble at idle both in gear and out No Codes via OBD handheld. Steps taken today that DID NOT FIX IT. Cleaned MAF contacts Dialectic grease and removed MAF cleaned sealed and reinstalled, Checked battery 12.9v, soldered battery terminal connectors and cleaned, Removed and cleaned Idle air Control valve plunger (did not test it don't know how). Ran bottle of Sea Foam though brake booster, sprayed TB cleaner into TB, Sprayed out Cam pos sensor plug, Cleaned off Ambient Air temp sens, Reassembled all with attention to detail.

y33 q45 2000 107k. The Intermittent Stumble at idle with AC on or off Saga continues, Still No Repeating/No Codes.
Replaced Air Tube Insulator part#16523-31U00.
Replaced Fuel Filter with OEM it was bad bad bad all sorts of black crap came out, I ran it for 15miles and still the idle stumble continues.
Replaced Air Filter OEM.
Replaced all the spark plugs later in the day with OEM NGK PFR6B-11 sent via Joe, this did not fix the problem but I noticed at first the idle was high 1000rpms then settled to 750 then to around 625-650rpm.
Reassembled and cleaned plus dialectic greased all contacts.
Ran OHM test on all ignition coils (they are OEM Nissan) not sure the whole ohm range thing but I followed the book page 404 EC and got ohm reading through pin 2 and 3 on all coils, all OHM in same range, that would lead me to believe they are all good?
Valve covers are OK no oil in plug holes.
Had battery tested OK.
Had Alt tested OK.
Not sure what else I can do except
Have some PCV valves on order.
EGR valve test next if I can figure it out.
Replace Knock sensor and pull intake and clean EGR tube.
Check fuel Pump Pressure?
Any Suggestions?

[maxnix]

2000 y33 106K. having stumble at idle both in gear and out No Codes via OBD handheld.

y33 q45 2000 107k. The Intermittent Stumble at idle with AC on or off Saga continues, Still No Repeating/No Codes.
Replaced Fuel Filter with OEM it was bad bad bad all sorts of black crap came out, I ran it for 15miles and still the idle stumble continues.
Replaced all the spark plugs later in the day with OEM NGK PFR6B-11 sent via Joe, this did not fix the problem but I noticed at first the idle was high 1000rpms then settled to 750 then to around 625-650rpm.
Had Alt tested OK.
Not sure what else I can do except
Have some PCV valves on order.
EGR valve test next if I can figure it out.
Replace Knock sensor and pull intake and clean EGR tube.
Check fuel Pump Pressure?
Any Suggestions?

Took it out this evening and ran it on the interstate for a bit thinking that it may clear up the injectors if possible it still stumbled after the 80mph 10 miles but I noticed that when it stumbles it also dims the interior lights dash etc but beams look ok any ideas?

Plugs should be PFR5G-11 or 6 heat range in FL.

Use Redline Sl1, BG44K or pure Techron (not Fuel Injector Cleaner) every other tank. You might even want to disconnect fuel lines at engine and filter and run solution and compressed air through to clean.

What is the duty cycle on IAC valve? If high, it just be clean. Bet you the EGR tube is solid carbon.

Battery load tested? KS tested? New coils?

[willko1]

2000 y33 106K. having stumble at idle both in gear and out No Codes via OBD handheld. Steps taken that DID NOT FIX IT.
Cleaned MAF contacts Dialectic grease and removed MAF cleaned sealed and reinstalled, Checked battery 12.9v, soldered battery terminal connectors and cleaned,
Removed and cleaned Idle air Control valve plunger (did not test it).
Ran bottle of Sea Foam though brake booster,
sprayed TB cleaner into TB,
Sprayed out Cam pos sensor plug,
Cleaned off Ambient Air temp sens,
Reassembled all with attention to detail.


The Intermittent Stumble at idle with AC on or off Saga continues, Still No Repeating/No Codes.
Replaced Air Tube Insulator part#16523-31U00.
Replaced Fuel Filter with OEM it was bad bad bad all sorts of black crap came out, I ran it for 15miles and still the idle stumble continues.
Replaced Air Filter OEM.
Replaced all the spark plugs later in the day with OEM NGK PFR6B-11 sent via Joe, this did not fix the problem but I noticed at first the idle was high 1000rpms then settled to 750 then to around 625-650rpm.
Reassembled and cleaned plus dialectic greased all contacts.
Ran OHM test on all ignition coils (they are OEM Nissan) not sure the whole ohm range thing but I followed the book page 404 EC and got ohm reading through pin 2 and 3 on all coils, all OHM in same range that would lead me to believe they are all good(FSM IS MISLEADING SEE OHM TEST BELOW)
Removed EGR valve cleaned and tested,
plenum EGR tube ok could not remove but cleaned out.
New main fan.
Valve covers are OK no oil in plug holes.
Had battery tested OK.
Had Alt tested OK.
Replaced PCV valves.
Ran 80mph 10 miles noticed that when it stumbles at idle it also dims the interior lights dash etc but beams look ok.


Ok so I just replaced my ignition coils and compared old with new.
I am using a commercial electric M1015B NON digital ohm meter.
Making contact with the correct polarity i.e. red black wire on the ohm meter makes a difference! i.e. make sure you set up ohm meter as diagrammed! , I did not believe it until I triple checked when switching leads.
I have the Ohm meter set to X10 and I have done the calculation for actual ohm's not K or M. Black lead to volt meter in the green com port and Red lead is in the VmA ohm port. See diagram for explanation.
I tested all old coils and all new coils (removed from vehicle on bench) and all new coils were same range +/- 10 ohms! and all new and old were Hitachi OEM.
I got new coils from Joe at Infinti parts USA.
I had four bad coils as per my comparison test.
Looking at the ohm difference between bad and good coils should be enough if your numbers are not an exact match.
The range difference is substantial and consistent 3850 ohm.
(**Note the FSM said that if "no OHMs then bad if has continuity its good"; as per page EC 404 FSM, i think that "no ohm bad vs cont good" statement is incorrect .**)

[img]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/ ... .jpg[/img][/quote]

Went For a long drive and put it into every situation that I have had the stumble become problematic i.e. at idle with AC on and AC OFF, stop and go traffic 25 miles, plus sat in driveway 20min plus. NO LOW IDLE STUMBLE, STUMBLE FIXED!!!. I would Like to thank Maxnix as he called it as far as Coils; but still it was a bunch of money to drop so I had to try everything else first. I hope the Ohm test helps others as now i have four backup coils even though I wont need them for 100K..I hope. (2000 q45 Y33 107K)

[willko1]

250 miles no stumble!

[maxnix]

(**Note the FSM said that if "no OHMs then bad if has continuity its good"; as per page EC 404 FSM, i think that "no ohm bad vs cont good" statement is incorrect .**)

[img]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/ ... .jpg[/img]

On the bottom of page EC-404 Component Inspection it does indeed show those two poles a being bad at 0Ω and good at any other value.

My coils are measuring 1550 - 1650 Ω.