y33 idle jerk / hesitation discussion (lets fix this!!)

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Q45tech
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Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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90-95 coils are very different from 97-01. The odds on a coil failure in 90-95 are like 100,000 to 1..............we]ve never seen one in thousands of repairs.Now bad seals in valve covers allowing oil into plug well and on coil extension are common but you spray clean the extension, dry, and reinstall along with new plugs every 60k and things are golden.


dodiho
Posts: 74
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Car: 1996 I30 1999 Q45

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Q45 Tech--what about failure rates on the '99 Q's? Talking about the coils? Seems like a lot of us are having the stalling/hiccup problems at idle....and gas mileage dropping considerably.....I love this site when everyone is helpful and not "snooty" in their responses..that gets old after awhile....

RAP
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Q45tech wrote:90-95 coils are very different from 97-01. The odds on a coil failure in 90-95 are like 100,000 to 1..............we]ve never seen one in thousands of repairs.Now bad seals in valve covers allowing oil into plug well and on coil extension are common but you spray clean the extension, dry, and reinstall along with new plugs every 60k and things are golden.
OK. Why is that? The failure rate of the newer cars? My recent purchase of a 2000 had the coils changed at 77,894, currently 93000, by the dealer under warranty. All of them. In Miami. AT $ 99.00 "gulp" shop rate "gulp". 2006. South Motors Infinity. On Dixie Highway, Miami. . Talk about whistling Dixie ? ? ?

Jack


gotgarth
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Joined: Sun May 20, 2007 11:37 am
Car: m30

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tt300z wrote:OK LETS MAKE THIS CLEAR....missfire at idle is IGNITION COILS period!!!!!

now if you have no power or stumbling at around 2k to 3k and no check engine and no codes IT IS YOUR MASS AIR FLOW when it goes out totally you will get TCS OFF.....SLIP.....AND SEVICE ENGINE SOON LIGHT...ALL AT ONCE.....the car will run like **** ..... NOW THE MISSFIRE THAT IS DRIVNG EVERYONE NUTS AROUND HERE IS IGNITION COILS "for sure"

hope this helps
google searchAnswer: This problem is difficult because the computer can't detect a problem, your car thinks everything is ok. In reality what is happening is the electrical component inside the MAF sensor becomes contaminated by impurities in the air (heavies) These containments imbed themselves to electrical component that senses the air flow causing the sensor to be slightly off, but not enough to trigger the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp). Replace the MAF sensor with a new sensor and you're problem will go away, plus your car get better mileage and performance. (Mass Air Flow MAF sensor or Air Intake Sensor AIS, depending on manufacture. It does the same thing with different names).

i purchased one of those turbine air thingys that you put in your air intake somewhere to save gas. well on my infiniti m30(hesitation at 1-2k) i dropped the "thingy" right behind the air filter and in front of the maf and it definitely cut my hesitation greatly. so getting a new maf might be my solution. i did: plugs,rotor,cap,ig wires, timing belt, hi grade gas, injectors, turbine thingy. in that order. turbine thingy about a week now and it's the only thing that hasn't brought back heavy hesitation. YET!!!! i'm tempted to test it with low grade gas, but low grade nearly shut my car off at idle once and i'm afraid to go there.

miata007
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Car: 2009 Cube 6sp, 2005 G35 sedan

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Is it possible to use OBD II top scan which cylinder mis-fire without engine check warning on?

007

qship96
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Car: 1996 Infiniti Q45

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miata007 wrote:Is it possible to use OBD II top scan which cylinder mis-fire without engine check warning on?

007
On OBD2, if you are having ANY cylinder misfiring....the check engine light should be illuminated unless the bulb is burnt out

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Mopar
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Car: Infiniti Q45 1998

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People people change your plugs.

miata007
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Hi,My car, the engine light comes on once a while. When I restart the car, it goes away for some reasons so don't have that light on for now. If the coil id the root cause I would like to replace them.

What are you guys recommendation of gettin use coils from a junkyard?I've read somewhere in this forum where the coils should be replaced at 100,000mi. So they won't be much life left if I get a use one.

In terms of checking the sparkplugs, I've checked the passenger side. They all looked clean. I will check the driver side in a couple of weeks. If the sparkplug is dirty, it's should be because oil got in and not the coil is bad especially the coils are intermittant once in a while. I am getting oil leak most likely from the drive side valve cover so I will try to tight the bolts at the same time.

Will keep you all posted!!

Thanks007


PJMoore
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Car: 1999 Q45T
Location: Chattanooga TN

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At about 90K miles, I developed the dreaded stumble on my 99 Q45T. At first it was only occasional, and minor. By 144K miles it was very prevalent and annoying. I had replaced the air filter once before and it did not affect the stumble, but I replaced the air filter again since it was time. While I was at it, I used CRC MAP cleaner to clean the MAF sensor. I washed the air filter box and plenums thouroughly. I obtained some dielectric grease (bulb grease) and applied it to the pins of the MAF connector and the intake temperature sensor connector. I changed the fuel filter. Finally I added a single can of Techron fuel injector cleaner to the tank. NO STUMBLE! What did the trick? Who knows, but it was NOT the fuel injector cleaner, since it had not yet had time to clean the injectors. It was not spark plugs or coils because I did not change them. The fuel filter was about 60K miles old. Fuel flowed quite freely through the old filter and down my arm as I changed it out. The air filter was dirty, but not excessively. The MAF sensor itself looked very clear to begin with. I wonder about minor oxidation on the MAF connector. The change was immediate and the stumble has not recuurred in the past week. Is it possible that this gremlin could be caused by numerous things, one of which is electrical connection oxidation? I observed that both connectors had dust well inside the housing, even though it was fairly difficult to separate the housing. This tells me the seal between the two pieces of the connector is not terribly weather tight. The connector pins themselves were slightly tarnished, also indicating a less than weather-tight seal on the connector. So - I suspect the MAF connnector overall. It is mechanically sound, but not weather-tight. Corrosion does not have to be excessive to interfere with the sensor's signal. Of course, I am only guessing here, but as a 30 year Instrumentation and Control System Engineer, I can attest to the fact that a surprising number of gremlins turn out to be loose or oxidized connections. By the way, my stumble never occured when the engine was started cold. Once it warmed up and went into closed loop control, the stumble appeared. I never felt the stumble while driving - only at idle, and much more noticeably while in drive or reverse than in park or neutral. My gas mileage was excellent before and after the stumble occurred.

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bullittandy
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I solved the idle stumble on my 99 by replacing all 8 coils. The problem was intermittent and I waited for a code/CEL but never got one. Let me repeat, the engine would stumble noticably at idle and sometimes would not and there was no CEL/MIL/codes as read by two different OBD-II scanners.

I got tired of the stumble, bought 8 new coils and THEN (damn car!) the MIL/CEL illuminated but at that point it didn't matter since I had 8 new coils to install. I replaced all the coils and the car runs as new and has for several thousand miles now.

NightRiderQ45
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bullittandy wrote:I solved the idle stumble on my 99 by replacing all 8 coils. The problem was intermittent and I waited for a code/CEL but never got one. Let me repeat, the engine would stumble noticably at idle and sometimes would not and there was no CEL/MIL/codes as read by two different OBD-II scanners.

I got tired of the stumble, bought 8 new coils and THEN (damn car!) the MIL/CEL illuminated but at that point it didn't matter since I had 8 new coils to install. I replaced all the coils and the car runs as new and has for several thousand miles now.
How much were all 8 coils? I'm had that I don't have this issue yet.

miata007
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Replaced 8 coils last year and car has been super smooth. Paid ~ $70/each from Joe. Funny, there cost ($110/ea) more at Kragen auto parts.Better get OEM for this.

007

maxnix
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1995 Infiniti Q45t
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I just replaced the bad one!

Oh, and totally cleaned the plenum, lower runners, IAC and EGR valves and the tube of the latter into the plenum, and the TB.

mc_rhett_meister
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Car: 2000 Q45 AE

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Have this issue right now. Since I bought the car, the "TCS OFF" and "SLIP" light intermittently come on, but never an issue past that. Now, somewhat randomly, the car started missing at idle, only while in Drive. Progressively, over the past few days it has gotten worse. Not only at idle but also partial throttle until rpm is over 3000. WOT, it runs great, feels better than ever actually lol I ran some Lucas fuel treatment through and no change. At first, I did not receive a CEL, but after loading it up with the brake/throttle I got it to show "misfire on multiple cylinders" From reading through here, Im going to try only 2 things before replacing all the coilpacks. 1, check the MAF connector and 2, clean the EGR. Lastly, I would like to note that the car smells as if it is running very rich(sulfur/rotten egg smell) but the muffler is not exhausting any black smoke... Will update tomorrow! p.s.- sorry to bump such an old thread, but I assume its good to keep this one up.

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Q451990
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mc_rhett_meister wrote: p.s.- sorry to bump such an old thread, but I assume its good to keep this one up.
It's a good thing, as is updating your profile with the year/model/etc. of your car. I assume you have a '97-'01? The only reason I ask is that the 90-96 rarely have coil pack failures due to a different design. The newer ones haven't shown many failures yet either - we're not sure if that's a function of a better design, or just that they're newer and haven't started failing yet.

Heath

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Dodgeyaussie
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Well after reading previous threads, i was convinced my misfire/hesitation was the KS's as those were the codes that it spat out. The yesterday i had to disconnect the battery to remove the seats. I reconnect this morning, still got a miss, but no codes.

Guess i'll do the cheap stuff first and go from there.

Sushi Boy
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Car: 2000 Infiniti Q45

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just got my 2000 Q45 yesterday... and noticed it started shaking at 60mph+ very bad... also sluggish at idle...

I purchased a Knock Sensor due to a OBD-II code... but after reading this entire thread!... its seems to be the coils and plugs...

Thanks, Nico.

mc_rhett_meister
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So
Q451990 wrote:
It's a good thing, as is updating your profile with the year/model/etc. of your car. I assume you have a '97-'01? The only reason I ask is that the 90-96 rarely have coil pack failures due to a different design. The newer ones haven't shown many failures yet either - we're not sure if that's a function of a better design, or just that they're newer and haven't started failing yet.

Heath
Heath, Sorry about that, done and done! Well I went through it all, found that my driverside VC gasket was bad(leaking ontop of plug/coil 1 and 2 Replaced that and every coilpack and plug with new from IOS. Helped a lot with the really low end idle chugging, but still missing throughout the powerband. Im going to check out the EGR tomorrow and if that checks out, my friend is going to cut out my cats and weld in test pipes! Question, I look underneath the car and coming directly off the manifolds are the cats, only flanged at the manifolds, but welded to the midpipes. What is downstream appears to be 2 more cats and then resonators, is this correct, 4 cats total?! TIA Rhett

NightRiderQ45
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mc_rhett_meister wrote:So Heath, Sorry about that, done and done! Well I went through it all, found that my driverside VC gasket was bad(leaking ontop of plug/coil 1 and 2 Replaced that and every coilpack and plug with new from IOS. Helped a lot with the really low end idle chugging, but still missing throughout the powerband. Im going to check out the EGR tomorrow and if that checks out, my friend is going to cut out my cats and weld in test pipes! Question, I look underneath the car and coming directly off the manifolds are the cats, only flanged at the manifolds, but welded to the midpipes. What is downstream appears to be 2 more cats and then resonators, is this correct, 4 cats total?! TIA Rhett
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/ Look at the FSM for all questions about cat. You will learn a lot which is better than someone spoon feeding you the answers. I had to do the same thing and now I'm very familiar with the fsm. Also my left cat is leaking and I was thinking about cutting both off but I was afraid of how it would sound afterwards. Let me know the outcome!

mc_rhett_meister
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Right, I looked, its somewhat unclear with the labeling(IMO) but I am correct. The ones flanged to the manifolds are the "Federal" precats, those are the ones I assume are clogged, so off they go. I'll end up adding another bung to the secondary o2 bung so the sensor is not in direct flow, thus tricking it in hopes that it wont throw a code. I'll try and get a sound/video clip as soon as the car is dialed in(coilovers on, tension rods, etc) Also, if it fixes my problem. BTW, my old coilpacks are for sale, all in good working order.

mc_rhett_meister
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Car: 2000 Q45 AE

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Ok an update for you all! I dont have much solid information, yet, but it seems as if the Number 1 cylinder is dead due to the piston rings being washed out. While doing a compression test, number 1 is SPRAYING fuel out of the chamber. So, maybe internally the injector is broken and dumping fuel? All cylinders are 210-220psi, number 1 is around 50-60psi.

Im tossing around the idea of getting a beater and putting this car under the knife i.e. RB25 or VG30 swap.... I know there has been threads before regarding a swap, but so far, I have not seen someone stateside swap something gnarly in the Y33... Between my R and now this, ugh.

Lastly, can someone please forward this thread and/or info to Q45tech, to see if he has seen this? I dont see the option to PM people on this site.

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Dodgeyaussie
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Well that sucks.

PJMoore
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Location: Chattanooga TN

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Well - the stumble is back along with leaking valve covers. I guess I am going to have to replace the valve cover gaskets, plugs, coils, and EGR valve will I am in there. Any suggestions about what else i should go ahead and clean/replace/etc while I'm at it? I plan on running this car till the wheels fall off, so I don't want to overlook something that is easy to get to during this effort. And the magic question: is this something a person with reasonable mechanicing skills could accomplish, or is this one of those OMG dealer things?

cariduro24
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Car: infiniti Q45 2000 Anniversary Edition

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Have anyone find it a solution for this issue?

kevindanielk
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Pretty sure a bad coil or two on the second generation Qs were the cause of most idle jerks and hesitations. Did the jerky idle and bad running trigger a check engine light on your 2000 Q yet?

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Q451990
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cariduro24 wrote:Have anyone find it a solution for this issue?
:welcome: to NICO!

The ultimate solution in terms of a reliable fix seems to be replacing all eight coils with factory new ones...

Heath

david52
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Hello, this is my first post here. I have a 2000 Q45 with 108K miles. It is doing the jerky, stumbling hesitation and and the Check Engine light is now always on. Sometimes the TCS/slip lights come on, too, but then goes off for no apparent reason. Everything I read points to a coil failure. It seems to make sense to replace all of them at once, too. I have worked on cars, but never on this one, and never replacing coils. Is replacement of the coils on this car just a matter of "pull the old one off and put the new one on"? Plugs were recently replaced, so it's not the plugs. Is there anything else that ought to be done at the same time as coil replacement? And, finally, is InfinitiPartsUSA the go-to place for the parts?

Also, I need a code-reader. Can you recommend a workable but hopefully inexpensive model for me?

Thanks. David

ukatfan4
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Joined: Mon May 23, 2011 3:51 pm
Car: 2000 Infinity Q45 AE
Location: Louisville, KY

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forget fb...this is the best site in the world! unfortunately i have to come here because i'm chasing these dang gremlins!!

i've read thru most posts and find it all informative. thanks to all that post your ideas and work!

i changed my knock sensors thru the alternator route and it was a bear, but me and my 14yo son did it. glad bullittandy had the tip of tape for the back nut. i cut a long piece of electrical tape into thirds (longways) and it was the ticket. sadly, no help.

changed plugs. no help.

cleaned MAF and greased connectors. no help.

unplugged the battery overnight to reset the comp and codes. tada! it's not perfect but very much drivable now.

found a Q and i'm going to pull-a-part to grab some parts later and wanted to know if 97 MAF or coils would work on my 00?

and thanks for the KS's Lokim!

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Q451990
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I would think they're compatible... you might want to check on some of the aftermarket parts web sites like Advance Auto or Autozone to see if they sell the same part number for both cars.

Heath

ukatfan4
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Q451990 wrote:I would think they're compatible... you might want to check on some of the aftermarket parts web sites like Advance Auto or Autozone to see if they sell the same part number for both cars.

Heath
good call. stopped by autozone and they are the same for maf's and coils. :dblthumb:


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