VQ35DE in S13 in progress.....

[SpecDRacing]

More pics tonight! Update on the white car.

Exhaust is 90% complete. Muffler is from a 2005 Maxima (drivers side), center pipe and Y-pipe are from a 2007 350Z MT (better than 2005 and older), the headers are factory 350Z and the pipe from headers to y-pipe is.....sadly to say, $20 flex hose from Advance Auto Parts. The flex is temporary to get me to a muffler shop to have the down pipes made.

The thermostat fan controls are in. The new coolant resovior is in, the 93 front facia (bumper) is on, the J30 brakes are on and the Nismo suspension is on. I forgot to mention last week that I finaly installed the VG33ER fuel pump (Supercharged VG33E from Xterra) and the Nismo fuel pressure regulator is on.

Pics tonight. Later gang!

Oh, and there is a slight chance (not likely, but not impossible) that this will be ready for Friday night. I have heard that the Carolina Nissan forum is trying to meet in Concord, NC at the Sonic. Not much for these gatherings, but maybe I can bring this car out.

[derelikt]

Hey, I've read all 12 pages and this is definitely the swap for me! I'm a tech at toyota and I'm anal about wiring and MILs. If I swap, I want the MIL to only come on for a real fault. How do you get around the Evap monitor? Do you wire in a downstream O2 sensor for the catalyst monitor? If you had fuel trim up to 140% (Alpha?) How did you not get a P0172? Oh and one last thing, that APP sensor you need the connector for, it's hard to tell from the pic but is it an Aisin sensor? If it is, I'll bet you can buy a pigtail kit from toyota. If you can give me exact dimensions of the connector and the terminals, I'll bet I can find it on the TIS(Toyota Information System) and you won't have to hack it together with a ziptie S'funny though, tech line had me ziptie an airbag connector together to fix an intermittent open...

[SpecDRacing]

I can fully agree with Toyota techline for the ziptie to secure the connector. The problem with connectors is that durring assembly, the face of the female end will stretch if the connection is made at an agnle. Being that machines assembly most of this, the occurance of a poor female connection along with possibly an already out of spec fiting, could cause an intermitten open. The air bag harnesses are generaly replaced as whole units throughout the automotive world. This would have saved Toyota tons of money, rather than have you replace a harness and possibly end up with some rattles (that will cost Toyota more money).

I had applied for Nissan techline with a recommendation from a few people in Nissan corporate. Unfortunately I didnt get the job due to not having all of my Nissan certifications. Its ok though. That job is awesome...fix cars with the phone, instead of greasy hands (gloves in my case).

That connector may be available through toyota. Its an odd one though. Id rather not take my car apart to get that connector back out. But when you do your swap, let me know if you find a connector that will work. Also, remember that the APP sensor is a potentiometer, meaning it works off of resistance. Too many solders and you'll increase voltage drop to the point that a variance will be seen by the ECM and you'll be stuck in fail safe untill you replace the harness.

P0172 is the incorrect code for an Alpha of over 110%, the likely code will be a P0171/P0174. You have to take into account that this is a Rationality codes (I'm sure toyota teaches it this way). This means it requires logic to determine what is at fault.

Whenever an exhaust air/fuel ratio is overly rich with unburned fuel, the computer must determine why. If an air flow meter has a poor ground, and builds over 0.005V (5mV) of voltage drop, the signal produces by that air flow meter changes. Since voltage drop on the ground circuit is undetectable by the ECM's of today, it does not know that the Air Flow Meter is displaying improper voltage. Since a poor ground on the air flow meter causes the signal to increase in voltage, the computer assumes more air is entering the motor, even though it is not requested by the throttle. At this time it richens the mix to keep NOx from becoming excessive and to stay within preprogrammed emissions limits. If driven on enough short cycles, without allowing the engine to come to full warm, the affect of the excess fuel could contaminate the catalyst (just a slightly higher amount than normal). On the next full drive cycle, the rear O2 sensor could pic up this excessive amount of fuel and trip a P0420/P0430 code.

This is simply a WHAT IF, but, you can see how the logix would lead the computer to think the Catalyst is malfunctioning. An untrained tech, or weekend mechanic at home, might replace the rear o2 sensor, since the frequency of change would be shorter than spec. All this because the computer made a decision based on the limited input it was given.

To get a fuel system rich code, the ecm will first do a NORMALITY test. This happens within a few seconds of starting the car. All wires are tested to see that proper voltage is applied and all signal wires are sending "something". Rationality codes take one or more drive cycles for the computer to determine the problem. It would rule out bad A/F sensors and O2 sensors first, then the air flow meter vs. caluclated load values, then finaly, determine the injection system needs attention.

Since I did not allow the engine to complete several full drive cycles within predetermined specifications, it did not gather enough information to determine the reason for the lean condition....which is this case was due to 3 things.

2 year old fuelno exhaust (sensors were 2" from outside air)high compression

So, in short....if your chasing a DTC, and your not sure which was to go. Do this......

If its current (trip of 0). And its not obvious, then clear the code, shut the car off for 10 seconds and restart it. If the MIL comes back on within a few seconds of start up, you have a broken wire or an insanely out of spec signal voltage from something (VERY OBVIOUS...like THESE WORDS! LOL).

If it does not return immediately, then it is a RATIONALITY code and a completely different diagnosis process will need to be taken. Very rarely will an open or short cause a rationality code.

As for the Evap question. In order to allow the ECM to operate as it does in the Z, you will need to install EVERY WIRE, from the Z, minus some interior lighting subharnesses.

I avoid certain codes that can cause poor engine performance by NOT installing other items (not related to that code). By doing that, I do not allow the ECM to perform a rationality test on a given problem. It will give me a Normality code for something else first. Once that happens, all other testing stops.

Glad to see another tech on here. I hear Toyota is booming!!!!!

[SpecDRacing]

PICS!!!!!

Before I post the pics, I need to add one more thing to the above post.

For those out there that dont get factory training.

Your ECM has transistors and voltage regulators all motired by volt meters. Most sensors have a 5 volt source from the ECM, this is refered to as a Reference voltage.

For example, your coolant temp sensor may send a voltage of 2.5 volts to your ECM. What is going on is power is supplied to a voltage regulator in the ECM, droping that supplied power from 12V to 5V. This regulator is the LOAD. A volt meter in the ECM checks the voltage on the lead coming from the regulator, going to the sensor. It sees 5 volts. That wire travels to the sensor. The sensor applies resistance to this 5 volt current, leaving only 2.5 volts coming back to the ECM. That wire is NOT directly grounded. It is first intercepeted by the volt meter, which is basically performing a voltage drop test on those wires. By seeing this change in voltage, the ECM can determine what to do with that information, in this case, changing the fuel curve, operating fans, etc. If a normal 12V source was used, there would need to be an actual load using the voltage, rather than restricting it. Basically, you'ld need a water temp sensor that would light up, and get dimmer the hotter the vehicle would get (which is opposite of what they really do, as they are a negative coefficient thermister, but thats a whole nother chapter).

Pic time!



Same ol' cheapo wheels. Installed the Nismo suspension. The car sits so much better now.



93 Front facia I got from Pull-A-Part for $20. It had some cracks from being curbed and a gouge in the top left. I filled the gouges with fiberglass resin, and applied fiberglass to the back of the cracks. Its obviously also minus a Nissan emblem.



Hopefully this is visible, but that is the muffler that will stay on the car. This muffler is from a 2005 Maxima. It looks alot like the stock 240SX muffler. Barely flows better, but will keep the beast quiet. Im going for the sleeper here, so I personally love this muffler.



Clearance under the car is great. The piping from the 350Z center pipe and Y pipe connected almost perfectly to the Maxima muffler. All I had to do was cut 4" off of the maxima pipe and cut the flange from the Z center pipe. Slide the muffler pipe into the center pipe and weld. Crazy how easy this stuff goes together!!!!



CAN YOU BELIEVE A FREAKIN GEO PRISM DID THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



This is the muffler from under the car. I aquired it when a rock from the road punctured the muffler. It needed to be replaced to pass inspection (used car). I welded some new steel over the whole after making sure it didnt damage the internals of the muffler.



The 2007 350Z center pipe and Y-pipe fit almost perfectly. I had to move some of the hanger mounts to place it properly. Also, the frame rails of the 240SX are approx. 28" apart. The y-pipe flanges were 29" tip to tip (front to motor). I bent the Y closer together untill I was at 27". This gave me a half inch on both sides for clearance. I secured the front of the Y-Pipe to the transmission mount via a removable bracket. This reduces the tendancy of the Y to swing.

Actually, this exhaust is stiffer than most aftermarket systems, and is comprable to the factory stuff.



Bare with me here. You've seen this go from parts on the floor to a running, driving car. So you know that this is the first step in changing the stock hood to a cowl setup.



A pic from the side reveals just how much higher the engine is. The hood will recieve metal bracing, mesh reinforcement then fiberglass or sheetmetal edging on the cowl. When finished, it should look pretty good.

So thats it for now! I did drive it today. Took it to the gas station and filled it up. Did a donought in the shop and some good ol' fashioned sideways burnouts in the parking lot. Nothing extreme, just kept the engine in the 3000 rpm range.

More soon!!!!!!

[derelikt]

I can fully agree with Toyota techline for the ziptie to secure the connector. The problem with connectors is that durring assembly, the face of the female end will stretch if the connection is made at an agnle. Being that machines assembly most of this, the occurance of a poor female connection along with possibly an already out of spec fiting, could cause an intermitten open. The air bag harnesses are generaly replaced as whole units throughout the automotive world. This would have saved Toyota tons of money, rather than have you replace a harness and possibly end up with some rattles (that will cost Toyota more money).

It was for a sienna and they decide what to do based on how many visits - 1st visit, crush female terminals, ziptie together and clip back to seat, 2nd visit - replace LF seat assy. (!) and redo 1st visit repair. If they'd went with the old style spring loaded connectors, they never would of had that problem.

P0172 is the incorrect code for an Alpha of over 110%, the likely code will be a P0171/P0174. You have to take into account that this is a Rationality codes (I'm sure toyota teaches it this way). This means it requires logic to determine what is at fault.

You're right on the DTC I couldn't remember the rich code because Toyotas always throw a p0171. But it actually doesn't go through very complicated logic at least on toyotas. It just looks for fuel trim at +15% on ST and LT. We just had one set in the shop on a matrix where they guy 2 foot drove and kept depressing the brake repeatedly and the resultant air from the booster made trim go up and set p0171. (This is after 2 techs threw a MAF and Injector R+R/Power flush, the standard shotgun)

Whenever an exhaust air/fuel ratio is overly rich with unburned fuel, the computer must determine why. If an air flow meter has a poor ground, and builds over 0.005V (5mV) of voltage drop, the signal produces by that air flow meter changes. Since voltage drop on the ground circuit is undetectable by the ECM's of today, it does not know that the Air Flow Meter is displaying improper voltage. Since a poor ground on the air flow meter causes the signal to increase in voltage, the computer assumes more air is entering the motor, even though it is not requested by the throttle. At this time it richens the mix to keep NOx from becoming excessive and to stay within preprogrammed emissions limits. If driven on enough short cycles, without allowing the engine to come to full warm, the affect of the excess fuel could contaminate the catalyst (just a slightly higher amount than normal). On the next full drive cycle, the rear O2 sensor could pic up this excessive amount of fuel and trip a P0420/P0430 code.

This is simply a WHAT IF, but, you can see how the logix would lead the computer to think the Catalyst is malfunctioning. An untrained tech, or weekend mechanic at home, might replace the rear o2 sensor, since the frequency of change would be shorter than spec. All this because the computer made a decision based on the limited input it was given.

For P0420/P0430 doesn't it just look at 1/1 and 1/2 and see if they switch at the same rate? When I worked at Dodge if you changed the 1/2 o2 you had to change 1/1 as well because the degradation in the front o2 would make it switch at the same rate as 1/2 and cause the p0420 to trip.

To get a fuel system rich code, the ecm will first do a NORMALITY test. This happens within a few seconds of starting the car. All wires are tested to see that proper voltage is applied and all signal wires are sending "something". Rationality codes take one or more drive cycles for the computer to determine the problem. It would rule out bad A/F sensors and O2 sensors first, then the air flow meter vs. caluclated load values, then finaly, determine the injection system needs attention.

Since I did not allow the engine to complete several full drive cycles within predetermined specifications, it did not gather enough information to determine the reason for the lean condition....which is this case was due to 3 things.

2 year old fuelno exhaust (sensors were 2" from outside air)high compression

But it didn't set on the red one right?

If its current (trip of 0). And its not obvious, then clear the code, shut the car off for 10 seconds and restart it. If the MIL comes back on within a few seconds of start up, you have a broken wire or an insanely out of spec signal voltage from something (VERY OBVIOUS...like THESE WORDS! LOL).

If it does not return immediately, then it is a RATIONALITY code and a completely different diagnosis process will need to be taken. Very rarely will an open or short cause a rationality code.

As for the Evap question. In order to allow the ECM to operate as it does in the Z, you will need to install EVERY WIRE, from the Z, minus some interior lighting subharnesses.

I avoid certain codes that can cause poor engine performance by NOT installing other items (not related to that code). By doing that, I do not allow the ECM to perform a rationality test on a given problem. It will give me a Normality code for something else first. Once that happens, all other testing stops.

Glad to see another tech on here. I hear Toyota is booming!!!!!

I'm not familiar with how Nissan performs evap testing. Is it use a Evap VSV and Canister Close Valve to isolate the fuel system and measure Absolute Tank Pressure rise? Does it use a Leak detection pump and pressurize the tank every now and then, or does it use a Natural Vacuum Leak Detection diaphragm that just closes when the natural vacuum created by cooling fuel and measure the time? Or some other method (seems manufacturers like to be different from EVERYBODY else). Will you have a permanent P0440/P0441/P0446 in the ECU?

I mean, I guess you only need MIL to flash for P0300 as pertinent but I'd also like to know if a A/F heater failed its test without pulling codes.

I guess it's all moot because in WA I only have to pass a sniffer test for smog and it's only 4 Gas. Even without cats I'd bet the VQ would pass with flying colors.

Oh, did you end up putting in the 2nd O2 sensor and running the wires? I'm guessing you did with the Y-pipe. Did you drill a hole and use a grommet in the body or just run it all the way to the firewall grommet.

On a side note, do Nissan's hybrids use the toyota system like ford's? You can PM me if you'd rather answer it off this thread. Maybe I'll go work at Nissan.

[SpecDRacing]

Yeah, we didnt have any lean/rich codes on the red car. I installed a nismo regulator to get the correct stock level fuel pressure.

On the EVAP system, our new cars use vaccum. Basically, its a simple system.

Canister Valve is called a Vent Control Valve

The vent control valve bolted to the canister stays open all the time except when we perform tests.

The valve stays open, therefore ambient pressures should be visible prior purge. The purge control valve stays off/closed when the vehicle is started. The ECM sees what the outside barometric pressure is, then operates the purge control valve, allowing a slight vaccum to be applied to the tank. This slight vaccum is controled by the purge control valve to keep the tank from sucking shut. The vent control valve stays open at all times here. The evap system pressure sensor registers the barometric pressure before purge operation, and after. 0.08V is the normal change on a Z. If its alot more than that, then the purge is sticking open, or the vent control valve is clogged/shut. If it doesnt change at all, then there is a gross leak. If it changes, but only by a little bit, the ECM will determine if it is a small leak, very small leak, etc.

Good questions! Not really for this thread, but do relate to it, if people want to fully understand what is going on with this swap.

[hai1206vn]

keep those pics coming You're doing great

if you use the upper plenum from the HR, will there be more clearance against the firewal?? And if so this brace by Jason might just be perfect zer...age=1

[SpecDRacing]

The upper plenum from the HR is comosite (actually, the upper and lower are one piece). It requires a different lower manifold. Maybe it could be retapped to fit but the use of two throttles is not supported by the earlier ECM's. I dont know how well the HR ECM will function on an older engine.

The rev-up upper manifold is the same P# as the rest of the VQ35DE engines, so no difference there.

That is one very nice strut bar! I like it. Its clean, functional, and slim. I dont think I can use it, but since I have a cowl, I can make my own bar to go across the front of the engine where the wires do.

Thanks for the compliments!!!

[Dopefish]

SpecDRacing, I'm really impressed with your dedication to this thus far -- few people are so adamant about the OEM functionality and keeping true to what the engineers designed the car to do.

I as well am very particular about this and the VQ swap would help me realize my goals full-circle (reliable 300hp, modern engine that is both efficient, clean burning and versatile), functional CAN interface, functional modern Nissan modulated electronics system over the old 8 and 16-bit centralized logic systems and best of all a smooth exhaust note that is aggressive, pleasing to the ears and yet tame enough to use daily.

The only thing keeping me from doing this swap myself is the lack of funds for parts, I would be all over this otherwise as it encompasses my passion to electronics and wiring with my fascination with cars. I've been doing SR and RB harnesses for awhile and they are child's play but I've been wanting to move to the VQ engine line for wiring at least for other peoples cars even if I cant afford to swap my own. :/ lol -- My friend who's shop I wire for sometimes is about to put the G35 VQ35 engine and interior into his S13 and I am relishing the opportunity to finally dig into this as it's been in my mind for a long time. Then this thread came along and just made me want to do it EVEN MORE! Functional CAN, OBD2, improved A/C and lighting controls, improved metering, improved tuning with higher resolution and cam phasing -- it is a car geeks dream come true in a Nissan!

Keep up the good work, I'm glad that there are guys like you out there heading up these shops -- it is definitely clear why you'll be going to GT-R training upon their release. Speaking of, any word from the dealer network when the training will begin taking place?

On a side note, and I know I'm rambling at this point, but do you ever come across any damaged harnesses from the 350z or Maxima/Altima? I'm looking for some engine and dash harnesses from these -- the engine one obviously VQ but the dash one I am flexible -- I'd be willing to pay for them, even if damaged but I need some for some 'homework' of my own.

-Kris

[Soravia]

I don't know if you have give thoughts about it but the passenger exhaust is too close to the fuel line. Are you putting in heat shields for it to not heat up the fuel?I had a fuel line puncture exactly at that point by a small rock from the highway. Not that it happens often but if the same thing happens with an exhaust line next to the leaking gas, the whole car would blow up. No?

[billya]

Hey guys I wend down to visit SpecDRacing aka Mark at his shop today and I got to take a ride around the parking lot in this beast. The swap seems to be going really well and the motor was very strong. It is an impressive amount of work and the motor looks sick in that car in person. He has done a great job.

[SpecDRacing]

Thanks man!!!! Now if I can just get some traction! I think I know where I can find some 275/40/18's to stick on the back!!! LOL By the way, those tires are super nice. I cant believe the deal you got on them. Those wheels definately look good on your 350Z.

So I drove it home last night. I welded up some new down pipes. I didnt have gaskets for the downpipe to y-pipe flanges, but I'll install those today. Hopefully get the hood finished and the Power Steering on. Even with the small exhaust leaks, it is bone stock quiet. I mean, at stop lights, you cant even hear it running! Driving there is only the leaks to be heard at near full throttle. This is what I was hoping for. A stock looking, stock sounding 240SX, that hauls @55 when you hit the throttle!

6th gear passing at 65 mph is definately stronger than the KA in 3rd gear at the same speed!

Later gang!

[Neejay]

Wow...I just realized that you're in North Carolina. I wouldn't mind making a 8 hour drive to get a swap done

[SpecDRacing]

Your correct about the heat shield. That was obvious the second I lined the exhaust up. I appreciate your concern, and your seeing things the way I do.

I dont do engine swaps......I build a better Nissan. Big difference here. Engine swaps are done with used engines, hacked harnesses and with minimal thought to the future of that vehicle. I, on the other hand, build vehicles the way Nissan would, just with different drivetrains.

I'll post pics of the S12 I have been working on. Its a close friend of mine and his car is amazing. All stock, but wicked clean.

Thanks all for keeping up with this. Once the cosmetics are done, the speedo and some other little things, I'll make a full video.

[Neejay]

I dont do engine swaps......I build a better Nissan. Big difference here. Engine swaps are done with used engines, hacked harnesses and with minimal thought to the future of that vehicle. I, on the other hand, build vehicles the way Nissan would, just with different drivetrains.

Sorry, I didn't mean to offend you. Your quality of work is very obvious and I wouldn't drive 8 hours for an average "engine swap".

I used the term loosely just now

[Soravia]

Once you're done swapping with new paint and interior, how much do you think the car would go for on the price?

[hai1206vn]

I, on the other hand, build vehicles the way Nissan would

You are the only person I know whom i will call true Nissan enthusiast

[Soravia]

I'm a Nissan Ghettoist. I put in whatever I can find into my S13.

[shinmei2006]

can't wait to see the s12 man...

[SpecDRacing]

Sorry, I didn't mean to offend you. Your quality of work is very obvious and I wouldn't drive 8 hours for an average "engine swap".

I used the term loosely just now

Oh no way man. The exact opposite. I didnt take offense at all. What you said was the kind of constructive critisism we need on NICO. No offense taken at all. It is a concern that anyone doing swaps should keep. Fuel lines + exhaust pipes + vibrations = No Car.

[SpecDRacing]

By the way, I am guessing I have about 150-200 miles on it now. Its running great. I havent done anything with the hood yet (got the flu....freakin great!). There is a very loud and annoying vibration from the exhaust durring hard turning. One of the two reasons is where the y-pipe is in relation to the frame rails, and the other is the rear sway bar touching the center pipe. When Im feeling better I'll get back under there and fix those things.

Driving this thing. The ride has absolutely no difference than what the KA had. With the nismo suspension and bushings, its stiffer, so more road noise is heard and more road force is felt, but its not excessive. It feels like a sports car should. The power is amazing. Interstate passing is effortless. No need to shift from 6th....just apply a little more throttle and away you go. Id say a KA in 3rd would be hard pressed to keep up with this in 6th, in a 55-70 mph passing test. 1st gear is funky. Too much and you roast the tires, too little and you lung forward. Good thing is the ECM Im using has Rev Matching ability, so if it does start to stall, it will attempt to keep you running. Im almost positive I could drop the clutch, without touching the gas, and it might just jerk and keep on going. I wouldnt try it though. I have to say, the most fun gears are 2nd and 3rd. The pull is strong. It gets stronger every time I drive it, as the ECM learns more, and the engine wears in a little more. I did do a 3rd gear pass last night, but the exhaust started to vibrate against the body so hard, I let off the gas, fearing that if I was running lean, I wouldnt be able to hear the detonation.

The shining part of this swap is not the power....its the weight distribution. This car handles 1000 times better than it did with the KA. Having a lighter engine, and heavier trans, placed the weight more in the center of the car. Add in that the engine sits farther back than the KA did, and you've really got a car that can handle. If anyone has ever made the merge from I-85 South onto I-77 South in Charlotte, NC, you know that this is a wonderful turn to test your suspension (when no traffic is present...right?!?!?). I took that exit yesterday on my way to work. It was saturday, so there was nobody on the road that early. I cant say how fast I was going when I took this turn. The speed limit is 70, there is a posted warning sign saying something like 35 or 45. The entrance to this turn is uphill, but once over that hump, its a light downhill 180 exiting to a climb up to merge onto I-77. All I know is I was pinned into the seat for the turn, and had plenty of "go" on tap for the exit. I dont recommend this style of driving off the track, but everyone is guilty of a little fun every now and then!

I have to say, I love it now, and once it's all finished up, Im sure it will remain loved for a long, long time.

[Soravia]

So no selling I suppose?I didn't know that VQ35 weights less than KA24DE.Are you going to put on CF hood for better F/R weight ratio?

[MAGILLA]

Ok wow, very impressive. I just read this whole thing for the first time and the work done is great. I wish I had the funds and time to attempt this. Just one question.

** How much lower can the motor be mounted from the current position and still be safe? I was thinking that the do-it-yourself flexalane motor mounts in the tech pages could be used to drop the motor for better top clearance and performance.

[EMK]

In the first car you did you said the mounts were similar to that of the stock mounts or sr20 mounts should be pretty close though. I know that in the first one you used a Z motor and in this a moded Altima engine, so my question is why does this one sit so much higher than the last one. And also were you able to use the gauges from the altima like you mentioned a while back. And did you do the same thing for the shifter as last time as I remember seeing sobody making a pretty much cut a weld in a adapter kit. Sorry for all the questions I'm just trying to decide on which engine to go after as they all seem to price out very close. And just to throw this out there .....Maxima engine???

[SpecDRacing]

The first motor mount brackets positioned the engine too low. It sits pretty close to the crossmember. This time, I sat the engine in with adequeate room to twist, should a mount fail. On the previous engine, if the mounts were to fail, the crossmember would be there to keep the engine from twisting....but that requires quick attention, as to keep the pan from cracking. Those mounts shouldnt fail. I also wanted the oil pan to sit flush with the crossmember in order to prevent road damage.

Both cars have FWD VQ35 engines in them.

All FWD VQ35 engine blocks are the same, maxima, murano, quest, altima, etc. There may be small variances in the heads (stud holes for exhausts are different, but will work with Z/G exhaust manifolds). The timing cover is different between RWD and FWD as the alternator mounts on a different side. No big deal.

Well guys, I'm off to the eighth mile for some test runs. I'll post some videos and pics of the time slips.

Later gang!

[SpecDRacing]

Well gang,

I didnt go so hot. I expected much more from this, but I have to take into account some very large factors.

First and foremost-----TIRES.

The tires on this car SUCK. I do not recommend them, unless on a Geo Prism or trailer for towing a lawn mower. They are 205/60/15 Bridgestone Potenza G009's. They were free with the wheels, and are about the sorriest tires I have driven on. Great for rain, but not for 300+HP at a dragstrip.



Compound is too hard, tread design is not for dry pavement and a width of 205 is nowhere near adequate for this drivetrain. I suspect I need no less than a 245/45/16 on the rear of this car and no more than a 275/40/17. Any more is overkill, any smaller and acceleration is too great for any tire. Next trip to the 1/8th mile will be with better tires.

Second reason for a not so good day......broken exhaust brakets. I had expected some trouble out of the Y-pipe brackets, but I figured they'd last longer than two passes. On the launch of the 2nd pass down the 1/8th, my y-pipe brackets sheared off.



So, there we have it, two bad things combined to make a not so eventful day at the track.

NOW, for the good news! I only had two runs, both of wich were accompanied by a guy in a Subaru WRX STI, who was too cool to roll his window down and talk to me. I guess he figured I was just another 240sx (which is actually what I want). None the less, the lack of comrodery (or eye contact), tells me this guys needs to be beat. I couldnt do that this day. But, if he even remotely checked his rear view mirrors, he would have seen me catching him after I gathered some traction.

My best time of two runs (and the first time I've dragraced in 5 years), was a 9.365 at 78.025 mph. Nothing to brag about. But, to put it in prespective, here's the two runs side by side.



1st run:

Car#150Reaction: .411T1: 2.675T2: 6.758E.T.: 9.966MPH: 76.804

I sat at the line and spun for a full second. NOT GOOD.

2nd Run:

Car #150Reaction: .327T1: 2.178T2: 6.183E.T.: 9.365MPH: 78.025

Low RPM launch, still spining through 3rd gear.

If you notice, I shaved over half a second off of the first time. Even my 60 ft is a half second faster. This tells me that my E.T. and MPH are way off, due to horrible grip. My opponent ran a consistent 8.4something at 82 mph. I dont know if he had mods, but none the less, a WRX launches very well. Impressive, actually. On the other hand, even with his better launch, the trap speed says it all, I was only 3 miles an hour slower when taking a second longer to cross the line. If we had been at the 1/4 mile instead of the eighth, Im sure I would have passed him....even with horribly old and gripless tires.

See me run him down for yourselves. Im almost ashamed to show this video, but it will only show the diffence tires can make, when I post the next 1/8th mile runs.



So, as you can see, he WAXED ME! Im not ashamed of that. Getting beat is the best thing that can happen. Why? Because I can see what needs improvement, and it will shock my oppenent once those improvements are made.

Still, not bad for over-the-counter nissan parts, bad tires and a first try.

Oh, did I mention my intake valve timing is off right now? Yeap, using an 06 ECM on an engine that doesnt have variable exhaust valve timing, will cause the ECM to not execute intake timing advance. A change to an 04 or 05 Base model ECM should give me my intake advance....and probably another 30 HP.

I feel like everyone who has contributed to this build, and the people following it on NICO were here with me at the 1/8th mile.....so that means we gotta beat him next time!!!!

[Soravia]

Cheap and grippy tires? or Expensive and grippy tires?For a wet day traction I like how my Avon Tech M500 tires handle. Not really a dry tire though.

Maybe you need bigger wheels to reduce the tire thickness as well?

[billya]

Also looks like your opponent jumped the light on both runs. From the negative response times and and fouls indicated at the bottom of the slips. Good first runs man I'll email you that guys info for tires.

[SpecDRacing]

Yeah man,

I plan on going with 16 x 9 rear wheels and 16 x 8 fronts. That will give me the best for ride, handling and acceleration. The 15's are just too small, and want to spin too easily. 17's will give me too little sidewall for city driving (curbs, ruts, etc). 16's should be just right, with a 45 series tire. I will probably dig my 255/55/15 Nitto Drag Radials out of storage and run those next time as well. I used to run 6.80's on those with my 89 RX-7. But that RX-7 was pushing another 100 HP with a T04S turbo.

Still, to run 9.3 at 78 mph isnt bad given the conditions. I was able to watch a few races, and there were Mustangs with slicks running 8.90's and 9.0's....so to only be 1/3rd of a second behind them, on these tires, says alot about 2nd and 3rd gear acceleration.

Im guessing with good street tires, I should run a mid to high 8 second pass....guessing 8.70 to 8.80 at 83 - 84 mph. Im thinking with my Nitto drag radials and an 04 ECM, maybe will produce a 8.40 - 8.60 at about the same speed.

None the less, if I do get into the 8's on street tires, that relates to a mid 12 quarter mile time....not bad for a car that I have less than $7000.00 invested in....IS PAID OFF...and will last as long or longer than a normal production car. Reliable, fast, quiet (very quiet) and fun. Cant ask for more than that!

[SpecDRacing]

Billya,

Yeah, I actually cut nearly perfect lights. A good reaction time is .500 on a pro tree. Less than that and your jumping the light. I was always pretty good at cutting the light. Back when I raced alot, my trend was to deep stage (only the bottom two yellow stage lights show, not both top and bottom), then, just as the last yellow lights up (or all three, on a pro tree), I'd be sipping the clutch. In the RX-7, that was about 6000 rpm and already making 15-18 psi of boost from the load of slipping the clutch. That car would leave the line like a rocket, but with the 255/55/15 drag radials, it just slugged through 3rd gear. It didnt have the torque for those tires at speed. I quit running them because they were too grippy out of 2nd gear. They should be just fine for this car, as it has at least 30% more torque than the RX-7 did (atleast under 6000 rpm).