VQ35DE in S13 in progress.....

[Tib to 240]

So after all this struggling so far, are you still offering this for $7500 and how long would you need a car for. Some of us have to give 60 days notice before taking a day off, and you're 700 miles away.

[irax]

the company that makes the nats bypass told me it only works with remote start, you still need a nats system for it to work T_T

anyways I ordered a nats off of an 02 maxima so hopefully that works out

Once I get my car in a running form I will be making fwd block brackets for a rwd platform and hopefully It should work with stock KA motor mounts.

[Tib to 240]

this is a bump for great justice!

[SpecDRacing]

Your nats system will need to match that of the ecm. 2002 ecm = 2002 nats wiring. I think you said you bought Freds setup. If you did, you might need a new ECM, as his had some bad grounds. He sent me his ECM and NATS system to diagnose it, and it had a few bad circuits on the computer (ground circuits).

The price for these swaps has gone up about $1500.00. I cant take anyone till the first one is done and I may have a shop/business to do them with me.

Later gang!

[irax]

well im buying a whole new nats system and ecu since i did not get that with my purchase from fred.

[Tib to 240]

O.K. It's update time now.

[irax]

no it isnt. shhhh i need to sleep, having too much fun making my chassis wireing harness.

[Umai Kakudo]

Im sure JWT can rewrite the ECM for more power. Actually, I hope they can becuase Im definatelly gonna need some tuning on my motor once its done.

I'd personally go with TechnoSquare for any Nissan ECU tuning. Especially for the VQ.

http://www.technosquareinc.com

[irax]

Hey, have you wired in the speedo yet? I know you mentioned useing an ABS speed sensor but how would I go about doing that?

[irax]

about that speedo?

[Tib to 240]

Is it can be update time now please?

[SpecDRacing]

Hey gang!

It's been a little while. Sorry bout that. I've been really busy alot with of other things and havent had much time to work on the project.

I did, however, find some time over the past few days to do a few things.

The most important things I finished were the tubular manifolds and adding some wiring/sensors to get this thing out of FAIL SAFE.

For you who have seen the first run video. In that video, if you notice, the engine will not rev up beyond 2400 rpm and was slow in throttle response. That is due to FAIL SAFE. You get this when any (or all) of a few things are happening.

Mas Air Flow Meter not working rightThrottle Pedal (APP SENSOR) not working rightElectronic Throttle not working rightEngine Coolant Temp Sensor not working rightSensor Power Supply not working right

There are a few ways the electric throttle can be messed up, and the throttle pedal. The main one that I overlooked was the "Sensor Power Supply". This seems kinda crazy of Nissan, but I guess it has to be this way for EPA reasons. But the Sensor Power Supply code is refering to a few items (this code can show up with a few different names, but will always be a P1126). The major sensors for this code are Electronic Throttle Motor, Evap Pressure Sensor, Refrigerant Pressure Sensor and the Power Steering Pressure Sensor.

Crazy you gotta have that stuff hooked up. Next you have to understand the logic of this code, versus individual codes for each item. Any code relating to the throttle will cause Fail Safe. You CAN have a PSP sensor circuit code, which refers to the operation of the sensor, and not refering to whether its actually there or not. Same logic is used for the Refrigerant sensor (A/C Pressure sensor) and the Evap Pressure Sensor.

So, how to get around these codes. Easy, I went to Pull A Part (big junk yard) and pulled three TPS sensors from various Nissans (mainly SR20 motors as those TPS sensors RARELY go bad). Each sensor on the Z harness is a three wire Potentiometer. Meaning 5V power, signal wire and ground. Easy, wire in each TPS to where those Sensors went. One for Evap, one for Refrigerant and one for Power Steering. Next, check the service manual to see what each sensor signal wire voltage should be at idle, not moving. Turn the tab on the TPS (what would be reading throttle angle), so that the signal wire voltage produces one that matches whats in the manual (again, for idle not moving). Glue, tape, whatever you can to get the sensor to stay in that position and that voltage to remain constant. This tricks the ECM into thinking the sensor is there. It also has a side effect of causing the ECM to give a code for each sensor when it sees the voltage not changing. Is that a problem? NO. Remember, for FAIL SAFE reasons, we only need to prove to the ECM that those sensors are there, not that they are working properly.

I tried to go to Radio Shack for the potentiometers, but they could only order them. I knew TPS sensors would work (though alot larger than what you can get from an electronics store) and I wanted to get this done today while I had time. So for you guys doing this on your own, order some small potentiometers from somewhere that dont take up as much room. There's a ton of ways to produce that voltage to the ECM but remember that it has systems to check to make sure each sensor is getting a POWER, GROUND and SIGNAL.

The result is the video you are about to watch. I have another video of the Consult III showing all the sensor readings while the engine is running, including engine RPM which quickly rises above 4K if your not carefull.

All thats left is to wire the cooling fan relay signal wire into the ignition circuit, tighten a few bolts and send it to the exhaust shop. As for the Tach and the Speedo, well, the owners of this car have yet to order the parts I have told them to. So you may read about those installs later.

Enjoy!



Oh yeah, I havent put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel lines yet to get the correct pressure....I just turned it till it ran. I'm getting 2.1V+ on the A/F sensors (bosche wide band type...factory....very nice). This is either due to a very lean condition, or the fact that these sensors are about 2" from the ends of the manifolds....which have no other piping behind them (yet).

http://s141.photobucket.com/al...6.flv

In case you cant get to it from the video, paste this link in your address bar.

Later gang!

(P.S. Check out the ground behind the rear of the front tires, you can see how much exhaust is moving from this engine!)
Modified by SpecDRacing at 2:11 PM 5/28/2007

[sbird1]

Mark, that is one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen. Congrats with making it this far!

[Neejay]

Man, that thing sounds mean. Nice.

[3.5Litre240]

can u post another link to the video i cant get that one to work

[kanye240]

here ya go

http://s141.photobucket.com/al...6.flv

[spider_slayer]

thats crazy.

[Reno]

=:D

heres to download it directly to your computer =:P

http://vid141.photobucket.com/...6.flv

[SpecDRacing]

Ok gang, so this took a long time to get this thing going...and going right. And its STILL not done. I have two bolts to correct in the transmission mount (have bolts too small in it right now, but they are ok for test purposes). The exhaust isnt done yet and there are no gauges in the car. Lets not forget that I still have to put the drivers seat back in and all the trim pieces, but thats easy stuff.

The pic below shos the consult III screen. It is displaying the DTC's still present in the ECM. Not a big deal. Remember I said I put those potentiometers into the wiring harness for the PS, EVAP and Refrigerent sensors. But this is just to show you what tools we use at Nissan now (just came out).



Next is something you guys have been waiting on for some time now (8 months????). Yeap, its running, and DRIVING.

SO FOR ALL OF YOU TO SEE, AND TO PROVE THIS ISNT A BUNCH OF B/S, HERE IT IS. THE FIRST DRIVE, THE FIRST BURNOUT, THE FIRST EVERYTHING!!!!! (and remember, to everyone running a standalone, this is running off the STOCK ecm, meaning it doesnt need to be tuned.)



Wait a minute....the car is moving really slow......well thats because it was laying rubber through 3 gears! It also hasnt had time for the ECM to learn everything, so its running very conservative right now. The exhaust hasnt been finished, the fuel is 8 months old and the fuel pressure still isnt right.

Proof of the LSD......



You cant see third here, which was not much more than a chirp. At the end of the street I made a left, eased through 1st, then 2nd and 3rd were straight from a drift video.

So there it is, 280ish HP Naturally Aspirated, not tuned, bone stock. Imagine what the VQ35HC (high compression) motor that I've built will do!!!

Later all!!

[SpecDRacing]

Oh yeah.....A long time back on another thread about this particular swap.....someone had mentioned putting a resistor in the CAN lines to get past NATS. That is INCORRECT....although, if you use only an ECM and BCM as I have, you should pigtail the high and low lines somewhere and install a 60 ohm resistor between them. This will give the CAN system a total of 120 ohms resisitance (60 ohm resistor in the ecm). We did not use the IPDM (Intellegent Power Distribution Module) which has a 60 ohm resistor on the can lines as well. I havent done this yet as I dont know if it will cause more problems (once the CAN systems knows the lines are ok...which right now it thinks they are not...it might assume all the computers are there, and just arent responding, which could open up a whole new can of worms).

Later...again.

[phuphyter]

It's been a long time coming, but soooooo worth the wait. Congrats! I never doubted you.

[SpecDRacing]

Thanks man! There's still a good bit to finish up, but nothing that will take more than a few days. Im glad you guys stuck with me! I think this thread kept me going more than the idea of the car itself!

[phuphyter]

Once this swap is complete, I'll be offering this as a turn key setup for $6500-$7000 (all parts and labor). Drop it off, leave a little money and a little while later you can turn the key and drive away... As for anyone interested in having me perform this swap for them, the price includes all parts and labor. Engines are used and may have up to 65,000 miles on them (I dont like to use anything older unless you want me to rebuild it). The time it will take for me to complete the swap will not be as long as this one. I have kept extensive records of this swap so that the future ones will not require any research. I will say that it is not a one day job though.

And again, everyone, thanks for all the support. This forum has made this swap a fun one!

I'm holding you to that!!!!!

Actually I'm really interested in a possible plug and play wiring kit with everything you'd need for the swap, minus engine and transmission, of course.

[Soravia]

That would be a very popular swap considering how many 350Z are getting into accidents and get totaled. There won't be a need to import.

[sbird1]

That would be a very popular swap considering how many 350Z are getting into accidents and get totaled. There won't be a need to import.

You could have said the same thing about VG's but most of them are still imported... not to be pessimistic.

[SpecDRacing]

Very true, but at the same time, the VG30DE motor was only available in two models, the 300zx and the J-30. The rest of the VG motors were all single cam. The VQ35DE motor is available in nearly every car Nissan makes now.....Quest, Maxima, Murano, Altima, Pathfinder, QX4, G35, M35, FX35 and I35. So, with so many vehicles on the road using the same motor (with minor raviations of 10:1 or 10.3:1) the availability is already huge.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Looks aweseome man... now melt those tires in a giant brake stand of victory.

[irax]

FINNALLY UPDATES!

so.... How are you making speedo read?

Have you noticed that the 02 maxima instrument cluster is same/similar shape as the s13? maybe its swappable ~!

[SpecDRacing]

These swaps are a little more difficult than the old stuff (RB,CA, SR, even VG).

The use of any nissan gauge from the newer style cars will require multiple items. First off it will need a unified meter (guages) and also might require an ABS control unit. This is an awful lot of stuff to wire in.

The speed signal on newer cars is at best a guess. Its basically a combination of all 4 wheel speed sensor signals. The average reading from each wheel gives you your speed. An excessive increase in speed is ignored and also considered as slip.

To get around this, we are installing a Dakota Digital speed converter. We are using the pick-up and abs ring already built into the J30 diff. This will give us a nice steady reading of the rear wheels, which read more accurately than the fronts. Unless you smoke the tires, which in that case, the quickly rising speedo will tell you your burning rubber.

The tack will also get its signal from a Dakota Tach box. This feeds off of the ignition signal to the number 1 cylander and converts it to a signal that the stock tach can register.

There you have it!

[irax]

so your using 2 sensors? because doesnt the ECU require some sort of speed sensor?