VQ35DE in S13 in progress.....

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
yelnatsch517
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Joined: Sun Oct 10, 2004 11:04 pm
Car: '95 Nissan 240SX

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SpecDRacing wrote:I will not be using something prefabed. The exhaust must fit the 240sx. We do have a few extra N1 exhausts laying around, and that may do, but most likely we will be making the entire exhaust system and just purchasing a muffler. Also, on the G/Z, the use of a stock style high flow muffler tends to be the best for keeping the sound down at higher RPMs while the use of duals is just plain raspy. I see them all day long at the dealership. Everything from Thermal and Nismo down to your no name stuff that probably cost $50 (and sounds that way!).
That's awesome, custom built exhausts ftw. Yea, never go cheap for you exhausts and the system I mentioned is roughly $1200 so no cheapo parts there, not to mention they were originally a company that made only custom built exhausts. Is there any way a true dual system would fit on the 240? I haven't paid close attention to the bottom of them so I never noticed.

I'm not exactly sure when you say raspy, but would you consider this raspy? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N18RmcuyV38 My bro's exhaust drones a bit around 2500-3.5k rpms which is pretty bad since it's an auto. Other than that, I think it's the nicest exhaust I have ever heard, which says a lot because I am usually biased against things my bro does. You know how siblings are.


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sleepyeyes
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Car: '93 240sx Fastback

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Damn, im barely tunning into this swap! spent the whole morning reading all 8 pages with my fiance laying in bed yelling at me to turn the damn computer off!This is exactly what im looking for, jap swaps are a hassle with parts when they need replacing, going kat you just never know when your engine is gonna blow, vg30 so damn big and heavy.Awesome swap, you know your **** man, your like macguyver, except with nissans! Keep up the good work. Ill probably be contacting you abit after july to see bout getting this swap, decided to this instead of my long wanted CA swap.

SpecDRacing
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Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 3:36 pm

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Cool, glad to see another switch to the USDM side of things. We actually get the better VQ35 than the JDM. Also, the VQ30 weighs the same, but is not capable of the power of the 35. If you interested in having me do it, I can arrange shipping for you as well. Getting ready to start on a car for a customer in LA, which means it has to be CARB legal. Once that's done, I will have done about all the wiring that can be done using a Z harness.

Maybe I'll get to work on this car some more this weekend. Gotta get the exhaust done!

Later all!

SpecDRacing
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Didnt even notice you were H-Town! I used to live off of Kirkwood (near Dairy Ashford Exit on I-10). Worked at West Houston Infiniti. Good deal man, I miss Houston.

Later

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sleepyeyes
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Car: '93 240sx Fastback

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small world man, im right off of wilcrest and I-10. Yes, i drive by that dealership all the time to catch a glimpse of my favorite whore , the g35 in black, so damn seductive!

SpecDRacing
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Very trick car. The M45 Sport isnt too bad either!

irax
Posts: 841
Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2004 10:04 pm
Car: VQ35DER Powered S14.3

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shooot ill put my swap on hold if your going to make something capatable with carb legalness? I want to use 02 maxima ecu but if you already have a setup that is already done with a 03 350z ecu I dont mind changing platforms.

Tib to 240
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Car: 1990 240 SX

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(My first post)I'm definately saving for this right now. I'm shooting for a January drop-off, and a March pick-up. I think that this is one of the cleanest swaps I've seen, and the power available makes me all excited in my no-no place.

SpecDRacing
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Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 3:36 pm

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I hear ya, when I first started doing this, I had to install a cathoder just to catch it all. LOL Anyway, no new news yet, been raining and cold...and I dont work in that kinda weather. Call me spoiled.


kyc197684
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Joined: Wed Apr 11, 2007 4:18 pm
Car: 89 240sx, 03 G35, 95 maxima, 01 ES300, and 93 civic HB, RIP 85 300zx,RIP 87 300zx

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very nice job you got thereone questionVQ35DE block with VQ30DE head does VQ35DE intake manifold fit on the VQ30 head ??? and possible what kind the problem i'll run into it using VQ35DE wire harness????? VQ30DE from a 95 maxima i have a crashed maxima just sit there doing nothin

SpecDRacing
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What manifold will work.....well, the block height is the same, therefore the distance between the heads will be the same, so the intake manifold from the 3.0 heads will work fine. You may be able to use the 3.5 manifold as it is very similar. As for the wiring, the VQ30 wiring will be best to avoid NATS and all that. You'll also have to make sure the timing cover bolts up (VQ30 cover on the 3.5 block). There's a good bit to do. The water passages on the heads will need to be checked so that they arent too close to the cylander walls (leak). As I said, there's a lot of testing and measuring that would need to be done to ensure a properly running engine with any sort of reliability. Good luck!

kyc197684
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Joined: Wed Apr 11, 2007 4:18 pm
Car: 89 240sx, 03 G35, 95 maxima, 01 ES300, and 93 civic HB, RIP 85 300zx,RIP 87 300zx

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thanks for the information oh i found this pic http://i160.photobucket.com/al...4.jpg

SpecDRacing
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That is almost exactly like the ones we are making now. Except we make ours from alluminum to keep from having corrosion at the mounting points. That is a very nice shifter though!

So not much has happened to the red car since it got shipped here. Rain, cold weather and crazy wind has kept me in the house. Hopefully I'll get to finish it up soon.



The stock S13 trans mount fits perfectly on the 6 speed. Just bolt it on, add your extensions to the stock S13 mount brace (about 4" back) and bam, your hooked up.

The next project car for this thread is of my coupe. This car is recieving the high compression motor I've built. The clutch and suspension came in today. Yet tonight I found out the clutch from the HR shouldnt be used with the old style slave cylander from the 2006 and older VQ's. It uses a different tooth design that may work, but I dont trust it. I'll get the Nismo clutch instead as its a better price for me than most, and has the same clamping force as the HR clutch. I will probably bet getting a JWT flywheel ONLY because its so freakin light and very cheap. The nismo unit is 21 lbs while the JWT is 14. I'd love to stick with all Nissan parts here, but thats just way too much of a difference to pass up!

So here's the next car getting built.



My new...er uh...very used 1989 Coupe.



Complete with dents front and back.



And this is the what powers this badboy!!! Oh yeah, you tremblin yet???? The every powerfull single cam KA!! Two things about this motor.....

1) It has a blown head gasket and a cracked head on cylander #2

2) It will be pulled, stripped to the block and taken to my local gun range so I can put about 200 rounds into it from my AK. This will also be video taped to show the only good use of a single cam.



My suspension came in today. This is the Part Number if anyone needs it. Very good suspension, proven over and over again, and very affordable. Not to mention a REAL warranty, unlike other companies out there.



This is what you get. "Nismo" struts....aka KYB, Nismo springs -0.98" front, -0.59" rear. Rebound: Front 353 lb/f, Rear 323 lb/f. Compression: Front 160 lb/f, Rear 137 lb/f. Spring Rate: Front 2,968 lbf/in, Rear 2,129 lbf/in. As it says in the manual. This suspension was designed with the K's drivetrain (sr20det which Im sure we all know about! lol). Being that the SR weighs close to my motor, this should be good, although the trans is a bit heavier. We'll see.

So thats it for the S13 coupe for now. It will get the suspension installed once my Diamond Racing wheels show up. 16x8 front w/ 5" backspacing and 16x10 rear w/ 5.5" backspacing wearing 225/50/16's front and 255/50/16's rear.

On another note....here's the block of a VK56DE. Notice that it is a closed deck design. Hmmmmm.....closed deck with 9.5:1 compression.......wonder how two sets of 3rd gen RX-7 turbos would do here? Sequential quad turbo 5.6L V8 (thats 8 lbs boost till 3800 rpm then 10 lbs after that). Now that would be wicked in a 240!



Later gang!!!
Modified by SpecDRacing at 7:48 PM 4/16/2007

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fayceoff
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SpecD - if you don't mind me asking, how much was that suspension set-up?

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idriveaTTz32
Posts: 236
Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2005 10:44 am
Car: 2004 G35 Coupe 6MT

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Spec...with the work you got going on and the mere thought you had of a quad turbo Vk, you are a mad scientist.!!!!!

any detailed write ups yet for the rear brake upgrade...something I thought about but you beat me to it...keep up the great work

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rico05
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Car: 1992 RMS13 w/ CA18DET
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You're gonna love the Nismo S-Tunes. I've had mine on for over 2 years now, and they rock.

Good stuff man. Keep the updates comming!

NSRsheets
Posts: 2000
Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2006 7:07 am
Car: 2009 Nismo 370Z #85,1993 Nissan 240sx RB25DET coupe, 2013 focus

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Your projects are amazing.

SpecDRacing
Posts: 351
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 3:36 pm

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Price for my suspension. I work for the dealer, so I get them very cheap. $660.00.

I talked to my parts department at my dealership and they said they will charge you guys $700.00 for this suspension.

Sound good? Retail is $839.95. Sorry bout the free advertisement, not trying to squeeze in a plug here, but just figured you guys might like it.

Superior Nissan/Charlotte, NC

Later gang!

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fayceoff
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SpecDRacing wrote:I talked to my parts department at my dealership and they said they will charge you guys $700.00 for this suspension.
I'll talk to you in a month. E-mail me at [email protected] and tell me how much shipping would be to FPO AE 09834 (it's a military post office box).


SpecDRacing
Posts: 351
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 3:36 pm

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Hey gang,

Care for another easy way to make an expensive product. Anybody who has owned a 240sx for any considerable amount of time, has sooner or later been told they need new tension rods. For those who dont know about these, there are two of them on your 240. They connect the front lower control arms to frame. They attach to the lower arm between the spindle and the subframe and come toward the front of the vehicle, where they are mounted below the radiator (via a brace). The rubber bushing at the front of the tension rods is fluid filled (as are 99% of the bushings on nissans/infinitis....excpet for the new motor mounts on maxima/altima which also utilize vaccum from the motor to stiffen themselves...buy anyway......lol). These bushings split with age and leak. Once they are empty, they completely seperate from the tension rod. A good way to check and see if yours are bad is to drive slowly (about 10 mph) and slam on the breaks. I mean, to the floor. If you hear a loud knock or pop from the front of the car, thats most likely the tension rods banging around.

Stillen makes an amazing set that have hiem joints instead of bushings and an adjustable collar behind the joint to correct caster. While these are awesome, and will probably never go bad, they are also costly (approx. $275 per set).

Here's my fix.

Find some tie rods from a 4x4 Xterra. Cut off the ball joints about 2" from the dust boot. Now remove your tension rods and measure their lengths. (for 240sx its 16"). Cut your tension rods about 2" from the bushing and cut the stud end near the top of the angle (just before it becomes a solid tube..about 1/2" or so). Weld in the threaded tubes from the tie rods. Now just install the adjusting rod and lock nuts, measure the tension rod till its 16" and whalah! You now have an adjustable tension rod. Good for getting your caster right. The tie rods will cost about $5 each from the junkyard. If you cant weld, any muffler shop can do it for about $20.

Bushings.....well, Nismo sells tension rod bushings that are far stiffer than stock, and various other companies do as well. I paid about $52 for my nismo bushings, which should be in on Tuesday. They will get installed into my tension rods and put on the car with the new suspension.



LEFT to RIGHT: Stock Nissan 240SX Tension Rd, Xterra Tie Rod (complete), Adjustable Tension Rod.



Here it is up close and personal!

So......for $52.00 I will have a pair of stiffer, adjustable tension rods. I got my tie rods out of the trash (someone warrantied a pair at work and tossed the old ones). Basically, if you know how to use a sawzaw and nothing else, you can expect this to cost you about $90.00 total (your tension rods, $60 for Nismo Bushings, $10 for tie rods, $20 for welding). Know how to weld, or get it done free, find some bushings you like cheaper, well, you could get out even cheaper.

Later on gang!

SpecDRacing
Posts: 351
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 3:36 pm

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Oh, and before I hear this "But it gets skinnier in the middle and looks like it will bend"....lets all remember that those tie rods are designed for an OFF ROAD VEHICLE, meaning that if it can climb over stuff and bang around on rocks, I doubt a pothole on the road is gonna make much of a difference.


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amgvr4
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Car: '89 s13

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Here are some pics of how you can take the home done TC rod to the next level. I made these for a total investment of $30. I do however have a lathe to take care of the machining involved. I was wondering if you might offer a wire harness conversion service. I can do all the fab work but dont have the ability to work out all the wiring. How much would you charge if I sent you the harnesses? Thanks Brad

SpecDRacing
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Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 3:36 pm

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Very nice! The use of a lathe here makes the difference. Not too many people have access to those. Really nice rods though! I'd be interested in those had I not already built mine. lol

The wiring all depends on what your ECM is. So I guess just let me know what you have, what you want to run and anything else that may be pertenant to the outcome desired.

Later!

irax
Posts: 841
Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2004 10:04 pm
Car: VQ35DER Powered S14.3

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I found a device that will bypass the NATS device. So All I am waiting for is an ECU and boom i should have my swap running!
Modified by irax at 9:48 PM 4/20/2007

irax
Posts: 841
Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2004 10:04 pm
Car: VQ35DER Powered S14.3

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I don't get it, I edited this post....

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Juztin
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Awesome build SpecDRacing!

Actually I'm looking at doing a vq35 in an S14. I definitely want to retain the stock ECU in my setup as you did so that I can run a UTEC for boost tuning. I previously owned a 350z with a UTEC and loved the system for tuning. I'm not very technical, but I would definitely like to know what I'm getting into so to speak.

I want to run a '03 350z ECU (mainly for support from the EMS systems) on the vq35 ('03-'04 block) in the S14. If you have the time do you think you can let me know what I should look out for & need to look at getting the stock ECU wired in and running correctly so I can then use the piggy back for tuning? I know this is a pretty broad question but any insight from you would be greatly appreciated since it looks like you've already been down the path.

I would like to also have the NATS working properly. Pretty much like a stock 350z setup running only in a S14. From there I can turbo or TT it and go with the FI tuning and setup which I am more than familiar with. The hardest part of the swap looks like it will be keeping the stock 350z ecu and wiring it in to the S14.

Anyhow thanks for any help you may be able to provide, and thanks for sharing all the info in this thread you've already put forth!

Sounds like I'd really need to get a parts car to get a BCM from, NATS, and other electrical components. It's these electrical components that I would need to get the stock ecu to run and work well enough to run the engine that I'm really interested in. But any wiring info wouldnt hurt either

--Justin

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myS13wantsaVQ35
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Car: 1990 240sx / 1997 2dr Tahoe

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thanks again for all of your help.

a_ahmed
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Car: 1991 240sx fastback

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amgvr4 wrote:Here are some pics of how you can take the home done TC rod to the next level. I made these for a total investment of $30. I do however have a lathe to take care of the machining involved. I was wondering if you might offer a wire harness conversion service. I can do all the fab work but dont have the ability to work out all the wiring. How much would you charge if I sent you the harnesses? Thanks Brad
Just curious did you finish tool & die or what exactly did you finish in school to be able to do it. I am thinking of going back to school part time honestly and need some advice...

SpecDRacing
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Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 3:36 pm

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IRAX:

I'm interested in what you've found to bypass NATS. While the NATS wiring is no big deal, and actually very easy to install, plus the added benefit of vehicle security, it'd still be nice to post it here for others to see. I personally havent seen any off-the-shelf bypass for NATS. The bigger problem at this time is this.....

I plan to run 04 Altima 3.5 Guages in this red car. These have the the Unified Meter Control Unit built into them, as opposed to the 350z which has it seperate (located just below the audio unit, white plastic box). If they will work, the wiring will be cut down considerably. As stated before, without a functioning MIL, the vehicle WILL go into FAIL SAFE, reducing throttle response and angle, also not allowing for a rev past 2400 rpm.

To everyone following this......I know this looks like a lot of work, and it is, but if your trying this at home, dont get discouraged. Indeed, there is a large amount of wiring, control units and customization to be done, but that is the beauty once things are done. IF ANYONE WANTS TO TRY THIS THEMSELVES.....I'd recommend getting an ALTIMA SE-R front clip, doing the RWD conversion and 6 speed. Use the Altima guages, pedal assembly and ECM. Yes, your about 20HP down from the Z, but you will have alot less wiring to do. Im sure JWT can rewrite the ECM for more power. Actually, I hope they can becuase Im definatelly gonna need some tuning on my motor once its done.


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PapaSmurf2k3
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where might one get an Altima SE-R front clip? I hardly ever see SE-Rs let alone front clips from them.


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