VQ35DE in S13 in progress.....

[SpecDRacing]

no.... as I stated above, and I guess it was kinda jumbly....but these are the only things that HAVE TO WORK:

-Gas Pedal (APP sensors, on pedal, there are two in one unit)-Throttle Body (ECT motor, plate, and positioning sensors, again there are two sensors located all in one unit)-Coolant Temp Sensor for the ECM-Sensor Power Supply (power has to be present on the major sensors--throttle, p/s, evap and refrigerant)-Thorttle Motor Relay (you have to wire this in anyway, so no worries here)-MAF (the mas air flow meter has to function properly)

Thats it. You get those things working and as long as the key is registered, it will run.

Basically, anyone who is planning to attempt this wirring better buy a 350Z FSM for the correct year that the ECM and wiring came from. They will also need an FSM for the correct year 240sx.

This is NOT an easy swap, but can be done with some patience.

As for the Speed sensor, you are asking about a completely different system. The speed signal to the ECM is not straight from any one source, as I said, it is an approximation that is computed by the ABS control unit (or VDC unit) from the 4 wheel sensors. After that approximation is found, it is transmitted to the ECM and Unified Meter, through the CAN lines. Meaning its a digital signal to the ECM. You WILL NOT find any wires on the ECM harness that are "Speed Signal" wires.

What I guess Im trying to say, is that this is alot more advanced than 99% of the swaps we have been doing. All those wonderful SR and RB motors people have been doing are from cars that are now anywhere from 1 to 2 decades old (rarely do you see anyone doing a swap from a 99 or newer vehicle). Some SR20's from S15's are getting done, but that was still the old logic. Also, Japan does not have the stringent regulations we have, so the wiring and ECM operations are completely different than what you'll find there. THe days of soldering in 5 wires and getting it running are over.

But, this setup allows so much more than the old ones did, and the relaibility is much greater. So dont get scared (even if this post seems to be scary...lol), its way worth it in the end.

[irax]

ohh ok I get it. If speed sensor is not required for ecu operations then it does not matter how the vehicle speed is gathered.

ok so obviously you also need the NATS system as well right?

yes, im stupid i skimped on that sentence.
Modified by irax at 8:38 AM 6/9/2007

[SpecDRacing]

No, not stupid, just not a Nissan Technician and not having access to all the information I have access to. So, does that make anyone stupid? Na man, thats why I posted all this, cause I know it would be very hard for anyone outside of the dealership to figure it out. While Im not going to post a wiring diagram, as that would display all of my tricks and potentially lose a customer to another shop, I will show enough that anyone with some service manuals can figure it out.

No question is dumb. Hell, even I had no idea what I was in for when I started this! lol But everything that is out there can be figured out...even a Bently W12 setup....just depends on what info you can get.

Yeap, you'll need to get the NATS system running, which requires the BCM and will require that a Nissan dealer configure the BCM for your particular model Z ecm (BCM's are configured per vehicle model).

Best thing to do would be to get it all wired up where you know it is 100% correct, then take it to a Nissan dealer and tell them you need the BCM reconfigured for whatever model and year your Z came from (I use only Base Model 6 speed 04-05 ECMs, but you could use any of them 03-06 except for the 35th anniverssary model unless you run that same motor....really nice). At the same time, once they get the BCM configured, you could have the key registered too. Then all you have to do is fire it up and drive it home! Wouldnt that be wicked sick.....to build a car for a few months, never hear it run, then drop it off at a dealer for one day, come back that evening and find out you did everything right! Its a long shot to get something of this calliber right the first time, but it can be done with enough research and time.

[irax]

i thought the 02 maxima did not use a BCM ?and no, i hit reply befor fully reading, i skipped that sentence where you mention that the nats has to be wired in to.

[irax]

I think the BCM on 02 maximas were refered to as a Smart Entrance Computer. What all computers so i need to insure that the NATS works properly? Can I wire the NATS directly to the ECU ? And bypass the Smart Entrance Computer?

[hungryjoseph]

I know you put out an estimated cost for a customer a while back, or at least i think so... has the cost changed at all during the (6) months? just want to know as a fantasizing kid that would love a v6 lol

[SpecDRacing]

No, the 02 max does not have a bcm, and yes it has a smart entrance control unit.

Downside to using a Max/Altima/Quest/Murano ecm....its for a FWD motor, meaning it will REQUIRE an EGR system to operate. Why, because without a properly working system, the engine will go into fail safe. Dont try to trick it by keeping the engine too cool to run EGR (below 158 degrees), this will cause a Thermostat function code, which the ecm determines as a coolant fault, or a coolant sensor fault...and the coolant sensor has to work, or you get Fail Safe.

You could try to wire in the EGR temp sensor, and EGR valve and hope that the system stays out of fail safe....but to be safe, I'd trash the Max ECM and harness and use the RWD stuff (Z, G, M, FX). Plus, they all make 20 or so more horsepower than the max.

Again, a service manual will really help. If you have it, go to the EC section, look under Trouble Diagnosis section and find the Fail Safe Chart. EGR is included in the fail safe chart for the FWD motors. Its not included on RWD motors as the VTC is programmed in a way that it also acts as EGR, therefore eliminating the need for an EGR valve.

Hope this helps!!!

OH, and the price of the swaps has increased. Email me directly with pricing questions.

[irax]

i sent you an email.
Modified by irax at 6:46 AM 6/15/2007

[wannawangan]

Thanks man! There's still a good bit to finish up, but nothing that will take more than a few days. Im glad you guys stuck with me! I think this thread kept me going more than the idea of the car itself!

Simply amazing. I nearly spent 2 hours reading and mentally digesting all of this. Anyways, looking forward to the "drop in" kits.

BTW, Happy Father's Day.

[Ravedragon]

Man this is the greatest swap i ever seen I cant wait to start my own do you think there is enough room for the twin turbo set up. Or can one do the job

[shelnut]

cant wait to see the outcome

[SpecDRacing]

There is room for the twin turbo setup, but again, custom manifolds will be needed.

By the way, the owner is considereing selling the car. He wants $7000.00 as is (still needs exhaust finished and guages installed...THATS IT!!!)

If you want to make him an offer, just email me.

Jonathon.....sorry dude, but your dad asked me to try.

[Ravedragon]

Thats all i need to know now just got to find somone who makes them do you by any chance

[SpecDRacing]

I could mearly mock up a set for someone else to copy. N/A headers are simple, but turbo headers require high grade piping and reletively precise tube lengths. This helps get the heat to the turbo in an even and continuos flow without overheating the pipes. Personally, I'd go with a clutch driven supercharger. And before a discusion about supercharger drag gets started....lets remember that even if it does create drag, it still creates more power over stock. Plus a clutch type would just be nice, so you could roll around with it off even in high revs to keep gas mileage up.

[Ravedragon]

Ic Well just wanted to see what my options wer, you've been a great help man keep it up . i Just want to get one and get it working for now ill think about all that stuff later. might actually keep it n/a ill probably hit you up for parts tho like the exhaust manifold and that thing you made for the transmission but we will talk when i have a vq in my possession

thanks again and i cant wait to see you finish

[billya]

Man I finally read through this whole thing. Quit thinking about that Titan and get to work on building your s13. I think you'll need some 350z seats for that coupe. Maybe you should get some burnt orange leather seats. Then maybe wire some floodlights.

[SpecDRacing]

Hey gang! Z/G35 sway bar on S13

Another part from a Z you can use on your S13/S14. The front sway bar fits!

Yeap, I had a spare anti-sway bar from an 05 G35 Coupe and I thought it might fit. Well, once I lifted the car up, I noticed that it was nearly the same demensions, the mounting points were the same distance apart and the bends in the bar would clear. After removing the stock unit, I found that the G sway bar is so thick, that it leaves little room for bushings in the stock sway bar brackets. To remedy this for the evening only, I used some thin rubber I had lying around and some white lithium grease. Sprayed the bar with grease, the brackets and the rubber. Installation was a snap, though the G sway bar was a bit longer than the stock unit at the ends, roughly 1". Also, the holes where the end links go are a good 2mm larger on the G bar. I used coolant resovior tubing, cut into 1/2" pieces, coated in white lithium grease. I slipped those rubber tubes over the end link threads that will be going through the bar. Pushed really hard and slapped a nut on the other side. Tightened down and found no play.

Tomorrow I will be installing the larger mounts to the sway bar brackets. I will probably make the bushings from hard rubber. The end links will also get replaced with thicker ones so I dont have to keep that rubber in the holes. If I cant find a thicker end link, I'll just make some sleeves to go over the threads.

I honestly expected some serious understeer in hard cornering but found the exact opposite. The car stays very firm in a sharp turn at any speed yet the ride in a straight path has smoothed out some. I even got the car to oversteer while trying to make a left through a yellow light. I hit the turn at about 40mph, slightly into an uphill direction, full throttle and the rear stepped out precdictably and smoothly. Minimal correction was needed at the turns end, as the power from 2nd gear dropped (high revs) the rear came back into place nicely. As for the smoother ride, I can only guess this is due to the Nismo suspension being so stiff, and that the stiffer sway bar minimized the amount of bounce felt as one front tire travels over a bump while the other is rolling smooth.

So the rear Z sway bar will be next. I already know the rear axles will fit a 240sx, if you have a 90 model 300zx diff or Q45 diff and twin tubo hubs. So since the axles are the same lenghts as ours, the sway bar should mount relatively close to what ours does.

One note, on the front bar, there is enough room for another hole to be drilled on the bar, closer to the mounting bracket. This give us a little adjustment in stiffness.

There you go guys, hope you enjoy!

Oh, and Billy, yeah, I gotta get that flood light up for you. The best part is gonna be cutting holes in your living room wall! Later dude.

[a_ahmed]

^Pix/write up?

[sbird1]

I already know the rear axles will fit a 240sx, if you have a 90 model 300zx diff or Q45 diff and twin tubo hubs.

Hey Mark, are you sure of this information? I have always heard that the NA 300zx diff and the NA 300zx axles will swap directly into a 240, but the TT axle spline isn't the same and the TT diff is too big. I might be wrong, but that is what I have always thought.

[SpecDRacing]

Your right, but I didnt say the TT diff. Maybe it was written improperly. I mentioned TT hubs...not axles and not diff. The R230 is definately too large. The R200 from the 90 model ZX and early model Q45s, is an R200 that uses half shafts the same size as the TT half shafts, and include 6 bolt flanges.

Here you go:

90 300zx diff -or-Early Models Q45 diff -or-350Z diff

WITH

350Z axles -orQ45 drives axle on passenger 240sx AND300zx Twin Turbo drivers axle on Drivers side 240SX

WITH

Twin Turbo 300zx Hubs -or-350Z Hubs and modified 240sx spindles

Honestly it is way too much work to piece together, so the best thing to do would be to get the rear driveline from a Z and convert the 240 spindles to accept the Z hubs. 4 bolt style like they have always been.

Hope this helps everyone!

Later!

[SpecDRacing]

Oh, and by the way, if you use the Q45 diff, your going to need to swap the pinion flange with one from a 240sx so the driveshaft will bolt up.

Also, the Q45 diff is 3.538 and the 300ZX diff is 4.08 while the 350Z diff comes in either 3.357 or 3.538.

The 350Z diff is REMARKABLY similar to the old Q45 diffs.

[KiNgEnMa]

hey SpecDRacing i sent u an email

[a_ahmed]

any updates?

[Ravedragon]

I was just wonderin if it was possible to hook up the stock 240 transmission up to the vq ?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I was just wonderin if it was possible to hook up the stock 240 transmission up to the vq ?

That is a big negatory, unless you did some serious custom fab work. (Custom built your own bell housing). Even then, the gear ratios would probably be weird.

[irax]

not really, just imagine a 240sx with more horse power and more cylinders. The engine will run no matter what the gear ratios are, and since it is allot shorter than the 350z it would be considerably faster. Not to mention the fact that that the transmission is lighter, but you would lose out on the top end. I don't think it would change the pricing around since you give up one benefit for cost but at the same time added cost for a minor benefit. And why does everyone think you have to make bell housing to switch a transmission out? Has no one ever heard of making an adapter plate?

[Soravia]

Have you given thought about modding in 350Z front and rear sub frames? They are made of aluminum and will offset the weight gain from the engine. They also work better than 240sx. You'll need to work on the strut mounts on bottom but that's the wasy part.

[Squires1337]

Quote »And why does everyone think you have to make bell housing to switch a transmission out? Has no one ever heard of making an adapter plate?[/quote]Not that I'm an expert, but even if the 350Z's bell housing was similar to the 240SX's, the adapter plate would be an additional part that would mess with location of the mount points on the transmission relative to the chassis, add an additional point of stress and flex in the drivetrain, as well as make clutch installs more difficult.

[irax]

yeah, because... you know thats the number one complaint every one has made when doing a transmission adaptation. Admirable thought really, but it wont affect much at all. short of making a new cross member, or shaving down the bell housing to make up for the adapter plate it is not that hard at all. It won't add any stress maybe flex, but only if your putting out so much horse power that a 1inch thick aluminum adapter plate wont be enough, there are other metals. I'm not saying that a KA transmission is a good idea, since the VQ transmission is plenty strong enough. Just saying that adapter plates work fine if he wanted to use one.

[Ravedragon]

Naw i was just wonderin if you could so i could mabey do it for now till i get the 350z transmission