Today is the day(going to fire it up)

[Zippy69]

Ok, so all I have left to do is hook up th e vac lines, fill with oil and coolant and all should be ready.I have an hks ssbov, and searched about it and now I'm unsure as to which way to hook it up, vac or boost? And which vac source to use on my internal waste gate?I just want to be sure of everything because it's been 2 1/2 weeks of late nights and not seeing my family ( I start work at 4am) and loosing alot of sleep, and I don't want to screw anything up.This is my first turbo project and I have spent alot of money and time on it , so I am being a little cautious about everything. This is my daily driver and for the last 2 1/2 weeks I have been driving my F-250 super crew, that isn't so easy on gas.Anyway all help is appreciated and I will post back this evening with my results, either good or bad.Until then...
Modified by Zippy69 at 3:36 AM 11/9/2007

[S13FX]

And what boost is easy on gas? HEHE.

GOOD LUCK .

Also Vac or Boost it's all the same crap, you produce Vac before the turbo spools up, and once the turbo spools up your producing boost.

[neverlift]

from what I understand you dont want your wastegate on the manifold you want it on a pipe that sees boost, but I'm Kinda "newb" to boosted ka's

lol 250s are weaksauce. that kat will make you 3x as happy and should get mid 20 mpg boosted. I do/did/dont know anymore cause the odo is broke yo!

[spooled240]

I know how you feel man, both excited and nervous haha..

WG: hook it up to a ic pipe or like what I did, to the compressor side of the turbo if there's a vacuum port.

BOV: Just hook it up to a reliable source of vac/boost (both the same stuff) on the intake mani. Just make sure you tap into a vacuum line that is not check-valved or anything weird like that to get the best results.

just a little advice, if you're tapping in the ic pipes for a vac port, use jb weld to seal it up nice! works great..good luck and just be ready to shut her off if anything happens to be on the safe side

[Zippy69]

Ok, I got everything set and hooked up, I checked and rechecked all connections.I turned the engine over with coil wire off to circulate oil and get gas to the engine.I reconnected the coil wire and tried to start it and it started up and stumbled.I tried to start it again and it just kept turning over and over like it had no fuel and or no spark. Checked both and both ok. I then noticed all warning lights on dash(oil,seatbelt,check engine,brake,battery) were on. Turned ignition off and lights still on. I took out key and the lights were still on.I checked my ignition switch and it seems ok. I disconnected the battery and waited a bit and reconnected it, the lights were out until I tried to start the car then lights back on.I swapped back to my original ecu, and the the lights stayed out but the car still would not start, maybe it was flooded ,not sure.I think my ecu may be bad, so I called Jason at E-mance and he said he would replace it.If anybody has any idea of something I may have missed or what I can try, PLEASE, nay PRETTY PLEASE let me know.My set up is a t-25, 550cc deastchwerks,and an n-60 mafs.

[eazye2000]

I took out key and the lights were still on.I checked my ignition switch and it seems ok. I disconnected the battery and waited a bit and reconnected it, the lights were out until I tried to start the car then lights back on.

That seems to be a problem common with engine swaps. Particularly RB's. But I've never seen that problem on a KA before.. If it's not starting with the stock ECU, then I dunno what's up. Unplug the injectors, then try to start it. I.E.: Turn it over a few times to get rid of the fuel in there. Then plug them back in and try it again.But the lights staying on sounds like an issue. I'm not sure man. Anything else you didn't tell us? Any re-wiring you did?

[Zippy69]

I wired the n-60 maf like an n-62, and wired up some electric fans but thats all I can think of. I removed the emissions box, the one under the power steering pump and there is a plug there that is now disconnected but I can't think of any thing else.By the way, I'll be on here late tonight and early( @4:30am) so feel free to post away.
Modified by Zippy69 at 5:44 PM 11/9/2007

[Zippy69]

Somebody's gotta know something!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Florida240sx]

It most likely won't start/run very long with those 550's in there. Put the e-mance ecu back in there. Disconnect the mafs plug so mafs is out of the equation. How you know you got fuel? Bad gas? No Gas? Lines hooked up backwards lol? You said you got spark...Maybe tore injector oring causing too much fuel and no start. What are your plugs gapped at? Mess with your distributor at all? Got the wires in the correct order 1-2-4-3. Last but not least of problems I've had/seen is there rag in your system somewhere?

[Zippy69]

Already unhooked mafs, even cut the wires to be sure some how wires were not crossed or grounded out. Plug wires in proper order; will recheck plugs gap.I used the plugs for 300zx turbo, cross-referenced the #'s.No rag, but it has happened to me before.The marker pin for the timing was bent down, probobly from broken a/c belt, so timing should have been retarded a few degrees. A while back I had changed the plugs and set the timing, not knowing pin was bent, but car ran great and really strong.Still pretty sure it is ecu because of the warning light situation.But I'm going to recheck everything.What pisses me off the most, is all the money and time I spent, I remember Bwana's post on his el-cheapo sohc, put together with old stuff he had laying around and his ran great. I spend way too much money research all I could and pffffft! Sometimes it sux to be me. The i/c was a pita, the piping was worse, and placinng the mafs was a huge nightmare, but got all that finished. I really expected the start-up to go fairly smooth with only having to adjust timing and idle.

[coolbone28]

Have you messed with the timing chain and cam timing at all? Have you taken the dist. out?

[Zippy69]

Negative on the distributor and timing chain. I won't get to work on it any today(Saturday) but I will try all the things you guys have mentioned.I really appreciate the advice everybody, keep it coming.

[Florida240sx]

What spark plugs you got? You need ot have ngk in there stock is bkr6e-11 you need to get bkr7e if you get the 11 after it it means it's already pregapped at .044 the 7 series in ngk is one step colder whihc is what you need.You tried a quick spray of starting fluid to see if she hiccups??

[coolbone28]

stock plugs are bkr5's so the 7's are 2 steps colder. But like florida said get the plugs without the -11 at the end.

It might help if you list your entire setup in detail and make sure to list all modifications...mechanical and electrical.

[Zippy69]

My set up is a t-25 turbo, 550cc deastchwerks injectors, n-60 mafs, 3 inch exhaust, and an e-mance tuned ecu.I put the mafs on the cold pipe right before the throttle body. I wired up two electric fans, and I temporarily hooked them to the wiper motor.I also used bosche platinum plugs for a stock turbo 300zx.This is all I can think of that I did. What do the plus need to be gapped?
Modified by Zippy69 at 6:00 AM 11/11/2007

[Zippy69]

UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!IT RUNS!!!!!!!! Well sort of.I changed the plugs with some autolites ( NGK's were not in, but these were equivalent ) and gapped them at .035. I put the e-mance ecu back in and it started but would not idle. I started it again and rev'ed it up a few times and all sounded good, but when I went to shut it off, it kept running on like the ignition was still on, but it did not do this with the stock ecu, so I'm 99.9%sure the ecu is farcked. My new ecu should be here Tues. or Wed. so I 'll have to wait until then to any more. Any suggestions on timing? I know the ecu will control the timing, but what is a good base starting point?Thanks again to everybody who helped.

[spooled240]

AWSOME!! that's a start man this thread went crazy for the past day lol

your warning lights are still on huh? hopefully the ecu will take care of those. how does she rev? sputter or anything like that? Timing should be stock spec.

[Zippy69]

It rev'ed up great, I didn't notice any sputtering or skipping at all.When my ecu gets here, I'm going to drive it around at the stock 7 psi for a while, I didn't even install my boost controller. I'm going to give it at least 500 miles for the clutch break in and then I'll put in the boost controller and the lsd.Spooled, I just have to say that your car is sexy as hell. Man I love me a kouki front end. I don,t have any before pics, but I'll post some after shots when I get it all wrapped up. Besides, I think we all have seen the "before" anyway.I hope to maybe get a video put up too.I definitely feel a lot better now that I got it to run. I guess it must have been those crappy bosch plugs, plus I'm pretty sure the gap was off. A buddy put them in and I don't think he gapped them at all.

[pflicht]

Hey! Its good to hear you got it running nice. Congrats. Gonna boost mine as well but I guess I have to get the car to begin with.

[spooled240]

hey thanks zippy, I'll have to throw some rims on her and shell look a lot better, i'm rollin on the steelies! lol

let us know how the new ecu works out when you get it in..

[Zippy69]

Yeah man, I need some rims too, steelies here also.My coupe is charcoal gray, so the stock wheels sans hubcaps actually look pretty good, but a nice set of black or gunmetal 17's would be nice.I'll post up after the ecu is in. I was tempted to hook the battery up and go for a test ride but I've sick for about 2 weeks, and it finally kicked my a$$ today.But it's probably better to wait on the ecu.Thanks for all your help.

[Zippy69]

ok, got the new ecu in, Jason at E-mance even sent me some new eproms just in case, and fired it up, but it was running super rich. Fouled the plugs so bad that 2 of them stopped firing. Could not get to it idle at all. Had the pipe that comes out right under tps hooked up to vent on valve cover. That was way wrong. Welded a nipple to the small piece of pipe after the mafs right before throttle body and piped this vacuum line back in here. After cleaning the plugs, I got it to idle so so by turning the iac out several rounds. Like I posted before, the timing had to be way off because I had set the timing with the pointer bent down but I couldn't set the timing because the timing light took a crap. I well set the timing, install new plugs and clear the fault codes.I rev'd it up and it smooths out and sounds great, vroom whoosh ,vroom whoosh. After I had made the vacuum line fix( I hope that was right then it stopped smoking as much but still will puff black smoke when rev'd,but definitely a lot less.Any suggestions or ideas? I'm going to drive it tomorrow as long as I feel safe to do so. Who else has an e-mance ecu,can you tell me which way the e-proms are installed? Jason said that could be part of the trouble code. I'm pretty sure I put them in like I took them out, but I used to drink a lot, so who knows.I know this is a long post but tried to give as much info as possible.Thanks homies.

[spooled240]

if your car is puffin black smoke at reving that is somewhat normal man.. or if you have an oa bov in some cases.Just check if the vacuum lines are hooked up tight and the nipples air tight, if they leak a bit then it will fu** with your enginelooks like it was an improvement bro, take her for a spin and let us know, just don't dog her out right out of the drive way : P lol

[Zippy69]

Thanks for the encouragement spooled, I'm dying to drive it around a bit, I just can't dog it too much, atleast until after the ckutch is broke in. I do have an open atmosphere bov, so maybe that's it.I'm hoping that it will get better after plugs and timing.Wooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[spooled240]

also that tune may run a bit on the rich side, i know my jim wolf tune ain't for a "green car" like prius lol as for the clutch, i heard you shouldn't do any launches or whatever over 3,000 rpm but after its fully engaged then you can throw a little beating on even before the 500 mile mark, they just want to properly seat the clutch disc with the flywheel that's allbut yeah-an oa bov will spit out more smoke and turbo tunes are generally more rich..our boosted cars are making the ragheads rich out there lol

[Zippy69]

Anybody know how to get the clutch fork back on without removing the transmission? Some how, the clutch fork fell off or was put back on wrong. I have no idea. But either way, I won't be driving it until it is fixed.I'm trying to stay positive, but man this crap is getting on my nerves! This should have been done atleast a week ago, maybe two.Anyway, if some body knows a way to get that facker back on, then let me know. This sh*t is making me

[spooled240]

if you can crack the transmission apart from the engine, then stick your hand in there to try and get it on is my only guess stay positive man, cars are machines and all machines take a sh*t once in a while, just stay focused on the goal.

As you may know already, being negative doesn't accomplish sh*t, it just makes everything feel like sh*t, just ask my car lol

[Zippy69]

Thanks Spooled, it has just been a long month. My buddy says he has gotten them on without having to take the transmission out so If God even remotely likes me , then I'll get this thing on the road this weekend.I'm hoping my next post will be " Drove it and man what a blast!!"

[Zippy69]

Got the clutch fork back on no problem.Now for the next series of problems.1. Still will barely idle.2. Running rich as hell.3. Turning distributor does not change timing.4. Can't get codes from ecu.5. Hooked up timing light, and will flash intermittently but not steady. However, when you rev it up the timing light flashes as the engine slows down.I have checked an re-checked everything I can think of and the only conclusion I can come up with is the daughter board with the programing chips I got from E-mance. I think that the ecu is not being told what to do with the fuel and spark, so the 550cc injectors are just pouring the fuel to it without enough spark to burn it.I just don't know what else it could be.

[NateDogg]

Turn the ignition key to 'ON'. Check the voltage at the MAF. Should be ~.8V. If not, you have the signal and power wires backwards.