Today is the day(going to fire it up)

[Justin_K]

Seriously, just drive it. I thought I blew my motor too after it took in a little under 1/2 a tank in 30 miles. It was smoking so bad even after I changed the oil and the faulty BRAND NEW injector. I decided to try driving it and see if it would clear up. When I pulled out I couldn't see anything behind me except for a cloud of blue, but within 1/8 mile there was nearly no smoke left behind me. You really don't have anything to lose since you already think you blew it. If I were you I would leave the e-mance ecu in since other people using them seem to have good results. Then just take it out for a drive but stay out of boost until the smoke clears.

[eazye2000]

Change the oil, and put Lucas in the crankcase like stated above. That stuff works wonders. It does in automatic transmissions anyways...

Just drive the sombish' and see if it doesn't just work its self out.

[Zippy69]

Well I was going to drive it today, but I ran out of daylight. Hard to see smoke in the dark anyway. I changed the plugs and started it and let it warm up, and tried to set the timing but wasn't having much luck. I'm going to check the ecu for codes and then try to set timing again.I checked the codes and got 34, knock sensor. I reset the code and tried to start the car but it would not start. So I checked codes again and got 34 again. WTF? Engine won't start, knock sensor code shows up even when not running? My brain hurts. I'll fuk with it again tomorrow.
Modified by Zippy69 at 4:54 PM 12/5/2007

[eazye2000]

I heard somewhere along the Knock Sensor wire, it can corrode, or short out. Don't hold me to it though. Maybe want to check the wire for resistance somewhere? Dunno man. Sorry I'm not of more help. I'm about worthless. I FAIL.

[spooled240]

hey man, yeah 160 is actually pretty good! I have a check engine light and it's 34 also the knock sensor but I haven't replaced it yet. My code pops up as soon as the engine starts to crank over-before it even fires up so don't worry, it's normal. My engine still runs great even with the code! IDK why your car won't start..make sure the ecu is set back to normal and not "diagnostic" or w/e it says..

[Florida240sx]

Knock sensors go bad all the time, and are a pain to replace. But there is ways to do it with some ease.

[Justin_K]

I had the same problem with the knock sensor code coming up on my '95. I checked out the harness and it seemed fine so I just bought a knock sensor from a member here for $45 and it was like new. When I took the old one out it had a little hairline crack across it. Replaced it and haven't gotten the code since. It is a pain to replace but I managed to do it by going between the runners on the intake manifold. Took about an hour but most of that time was trying to get the new one back on and in position to thread it in. Just need swivel sockets, a long extension, and I think it was a 14mm socket.

[Zippy69]

I was pretty sure the knock sensor wouldn't keep it from starting.I forgot to mention that when I was trying to set the timing, I got it up to temp, shut it off and disconnected the TPS, and then started it back up and reved it past 2k and tried to set the timing, but I could only get it to move a few degrees either way, even going from lock to lock on the distributor.I also searched and found a post about knock sensors from a BMW being a direct replacement and only about $20 or so from a dealer.Anyone ever use a BMW knock sensor? The guy posted that no mods were needed at all, just install and go.But I'm wondering if my knock sensor is bad, won't that mess with my timing, as the ECU thinks something is knocking like hell, so it retards the timing? I'm pretty sure my whole car is retarded anyway so this would be no suprise to me.

[Justin_K]

Yeah, the knock sensor definitely shouldn't stop the car from starting. I'm not sure what that problem could be. You're right about the timing being retarded, the ecu sees a problem with the knock sensor so automatically retards I think 5 degrees. So be careful if you set your timing with the knock sensor because once you fix it it'll probably try to give back the 5 degrees. That could also be a reason for not being able to adjust the timing, but I don't really know. I never heard anything about the BMW knock sensor, I'd check that out since I think Nissan wants like $140 for a new one.

[eazye2000]

If I remember right, the ECU will always show -20 degrees of timing from the ECU. Even with consult or whatever. That's why you manually set it up front. You can put the distributor in backwards, or even 90* out, and the ECU will still tell you that it's at -20 BTDC.Someone tell me if I'm just blowing smoke..

[spooled240]

yeah nissan wants about 140-150 for a knock sensor, but seriously my car runs strong even with the light on. Maybe it could be a lot faster with a new knock sensor because my ecu's retarding the timing?? Anyways, i don't think the knock sensor is the issue, your car SHOULD be able to start at least!

Zippy, how about pulling a plug out and have someone crank the engine over then see if you are getting spark. You may wanna check fuel pressure also bro. I hope you have some luck!!!

[Zippy69]

I got it to start and drove it around my drive way. It was running like t-total sh*t. I changed the plugs and barely got it started and ran even worse.I couldn't keep it running long enough to set the timing, I kept trying to move the distributor a little at a time but it just got to where it would try to start but not quite. I'll check the fuel pressure and individual spark on spark plugs.When I was driving around my drive way island, it was still smoking real heavy and like I said, it was just a few minutes before it started skipping and then would barely run at all.Tomorrow is another day.

[Justin_K]

If I remember right, the ECU will always show -20 degrees of timing from the ECU. Even with consult or whatever. That's why you manually set it up front. You can put the distributor in backwards, or even 90* out, and the ECU will still tell you that it's at -20 BTDC.Someone tell me if I'm just blowing smoke..

I've never tried to set the timing based on what the ECU said, always with a timing light. But I know that on my '95 I hooked up my computer to the consult port to check a different issue and the timing would change depending on rpm's and it would pretty much stabilize at idle, just small variations. But what I'm saying is that the ECU will retard timing whenever it senses a problem with the knock sensor, whether that is due to a faulty sensor, bad wiring, or actual detonation. So if he were to set the timing while it had the timing retarded and later fixed the knock sensor wouldn't it try to advance his timing back to normal since it realizes that the problem is fixed? Maybe I'm just over thinking this but I'm just saying when he does replace the knock sensor it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and make sure the timing is still set right to avoid detonation. But that really isn't an issue for now because it wouldn't cause the problems he's having.

I'm starting to think it has to be an issue with the tune. Your motor seems fine based on the compression numbers, the bad running with the sooty plugs sounds to me like a bad tune. I would do what the people above have suggested with the fmu. Then if it is running good then you know it was the tune that was bad. Did you ever pull your fuel rail out again and see how the injectors looked when they sprayed? They might not be misting like they should. I doubt the Deatschwerks would cause any problems, I've never heard anything bad about them but I don't know what else the problem could be. I wish I could help more.

[spooled240]

How about leaky injector o-ring seals? you might have checked those already, I'm running out of ideas as well..I still believe deep down that it is the tune, like justink said your engine seems fine just the rich condition is f'n everything up like spark and what not.

Do you think a faulty knock sensor would make an engine run richer? Maybe as a safety precaution in the ecu from detonation?

[Justin_K]

The leaky o-ring was my first thought as well. I looked back in the thread and on page 2 he said that he pulled the rail and checked for leaks and didn't get any. I had a leaky o-ring before and had the exact same symptoms that he had, but since he said he checked I didn't want to bring it back up. Retarding the timing is what the ecu does to protect the motor from detonation, not run richer.

[Zippy69]

I think I'm going to try to find an FMU locally, and go that route. I can't be sure if it is the tune unless I can get it to run long enough to check some stuff out.I really appreciate you guys giving me all the help. I think I would have given up already if I didn't have Nico to turn to.

[coolbone28]

So what exactly is the problem now? I have gotten lost in all this. Just repost everything that you have checked and changed and. It seems your problems are morphing...sorry this is taking so long for you. I know its murder waiting for your car to be up and running.

I would replace that knock sensor too before you do anything. Its too hard to diagnose a problem when there is an underlying problem that compounds everything. And a bad knock sensor will do that.

[spooled240]

^true, you will have to replace it eventually why not now? As for me I'm just poor right now lol

Also, I would check all the wiring from the mafs: check all connections and make sure all wires are shrink-tubed and not short circuiting. Didn't you say that some areas of the db were fried and looked burned? A short circuiting of a few wires can potetially be the problem..

yeah it would make sense that the ecu would retard the hell out of the timing just to be safe when it throws a code for the knock sensor..

[Zippy69]

Ok, the original problem was a bad ecu which had me in "limp" mode and my 550cc injectors were pumping full time and had me running so rich, it wouldn't even idle. During the massive fuel waterfall, my cylinder wall got washed down and now I'm smoking like a crop duster with bad rings. The general consensus is that it is just washed out rings and not broken ring lands, so I'm hoping for the best.I'm pretty sure my ecu issues are taken care of as my car is running ok right now except for the smoke. It's running as I type this post and has been for about 45 minutes. It is still skipping after a few minutes of running, but a well placed rock keeps the gas pedal at just the right position to hold around 1k rpms.I may be high from all the fumes, but I think the smoking is actually getting a little better. I kept fooling with the timing and found a happy medium to make it run.I'm still going to check on the BMW knock sensor to see if it is really that cheap. I just can't make myself spend $140 on a little turd of a component.I broke the nipple off of my cold pipe just behind my mafs, so I won't be able to drive it until I weld it back.

[spooled240]

just got off the phone w/ jim wolf about my knock sensor issue and they said that it doesn't necessarily have to be the sensor itself but the wiring from the sensor to the ecu (corrosion, connection problems etc..)

They also said that the knock sensor was used for low rpm detonation not really for wot performance. So the sensor is actually a safeguard for putting crappy gas in the tank or what not..i hope this helps!

[Zippy69]

Could the knock sensor be bypassed or disabled? Has anyone ever heard of Blue Devil engine treatment? It is supposed to cure everything from worn rings to a broken heart, but it costs about $70 a quart.It is guaranteed to work and the guy at the parts shop swears that it works wonders almost immediately. I have just never heard of it. And ever since that Ronco hair in a can fiasco, I'm just a little leery of "miracle" cures.

[240sxmech]

you would have low compression if you blew your rings. like i said before change your ecu and put stock injectors back in , i see you did that and damn it ran . You can send me my check soon. hit me up if yiu have anymore problems and im glad you got it runing. Change your oil also.Make sure you have the stock injectors in.

[240sxmech]

To seat you rings you need to run it at about 2 grand for 20m minutes that will seat your rings back , from when you washed the cylinders from the ecu i told you to change and those stupid *** injectors that i told you were to big that you are probably still running cause everyone thinks bigger injectors mean more horsepower(WRONG).Why wont you guys listen to people when you ask them for their help.

[spooled240]

uhhh...his e-mance was tuned for 550's. If I'm not mistaken, using injectors that are smaller than what a tune specifically calls for could lean out an engine and blow it up??? Bottom line for bigger injectors: Flow more fuel for more boost=more horsepower

[Florida240sx]

put in a quart of lucas motor oil only like $7 a qtIt work wonders had a geo tracker that i thought was crop dusitng and playign rock music lol, 3 minutes later california emissions friendly and quiet as a mouse.

[Zippy69]

I appreciate your help 240sxmech, but I have to disagree with you on the issue of injectors. If you increase air flow to the engine, then you must increase fuel flow at a rate that maintains a proper air/fuel ratio. I know you know this so don't think I'm trying to be a smarta$$. If I were to run a stock ecu and stock injectors with my turbo, then we both know what would happen.Yes it did start with the stock ecu but I only did that to rule out any other components, like maf, bad wiring, etc. The first ecu fried the first daughter board so the second ecu made no difference. The new db fixed the problem with the ecu, so now the injectors seem to be operating properly.I know that 550cc injectors are too big for a t-25, but as long as the ecu is tuned to control their pulse width, then they will flow no more fuel than required.This summer, I plan on swapping in a built ka with a larger turbo to get me somewhere around 350-400hp.I have already ran it for about an hour and a half and still smokes.I will change the plugs again and add the lucas oil and try again.Has anybody ever heard of the Blue Devil stuff?

[Zippy69]

I ran it for about an hour with the Lucas oil, drove it around, probably about 10 miles, and still smoking. I'm starting to wonder if it's a seal in the turbo, but I have no idea on how to check for that except remove the oil feed line and plug it off. Does anybody know a better way?I made a video of the smoking and I'll post it up today if I figure out how.

[eazye2000]

just got off the phone w/ jim wolf about my knock sensor issue and they said that it doesn't necessarily have to be the sensor itself but the wiring from the sensor to the ecu (corrosion, connection problems etc..)

I heard somewhere along the Knock Sensor wire, it can corrode, or short out. Don't hold me to it though. Maybe want to check the wire for resistance somewhere?

Damn, I knew that sounded familiar...

If you want to check and see if it's a seal on the turbo blown, just pop off your hot-pipe and look in there. Easy way to check the compressor side.I'm not sure on the turbine side. That might be a little more difficult.

I'm running out of ideas.. And I have to go help a guy with an EessssArrrrrrrr today.. That's really going to fry my brain.

[Zippy69]

And I have to go help a guy with an EessssArrrrrrrr today.. That's really going to fry my brain.

TRAITOR!!! j/kPulling off the i/c pipe would work on the compressor side, but I think that all the smoke would be coming from the exhaust turbine, wouldn't it?I pulled off the large vac line right after my mafs, and saw no oil residue in it at all, so If the seal on the turbo was leaking it would have to be on the exhaust turbine side, correct?

[eazye2000]

Yeah, probably Turbine side. I'm not sure what to tell you bro. Either grab a rebuild kit, and have at it. Or look for a replacement turbo.

*Edit* I got to thinking, a Turbine Oil Leak wouldn't cause the fouled plugs. Am I missing something?