Today is the day(going to fire it up)

[Zippy69]

I saw another thread about the N-60 maf and posted ther so I'll post it here too. Do one of the ground wires need to be taken to chassis ground? Right now they are both tied together with the ground on my harness.It would be awesomwe if that was th only problem.

[eazye2000]

I got a afc for a Honda!

Huh? I thought an AFC was an AFC. Could just hook them up to different vehicles..?

Do one of the ground wires need to be taken to chassis ground? Right now they are both tied together with the ground on my harness..

You can hook them both up to the MAF ground wire. Shouldn't hurt anything. I have the one hooked up to the MAF harness ground, and the other grounded on the chassis. N62 MAF is what I have.

Sucks to hear you're having so many problems bro. I have a daughterboard I got from Jason. I soldered it in myself, and the tune has been flawless. 740cc injectors, Z32 N62 MAF, GT2860RS. yadda yadda.Post up progress, or concerns. We'll try to get you squared away!

[Zippy69]

Huh? I thought an AFC was an AFC. Could just hook them up to different vehicles..?

And so did I, but this a Vafc and apparently the V is V-tec. But I opened the box and pulled the instructions out and all I saw was prelude,accord,del sol etc.So I called Apexi and asked and they said for Honda only, so................Anybody gonna turbo a Honda?But anyway, talked to Jason and he had me try a few things over the phone like starting without daughter board and then without maf. We both came to the conclusion that the daughter board was bad. It may have gotten fried from that first ecu. Who knows. But he is sending me a new db so we'll see.

[spooled240]

well ok, the tunes work according to eazye2000..i was beginning to wonder about this whole e-mance tune. I have an n62 and I had the ground wire attached to the chassis and now its hanging cuz i did the blow-thru-didn't change one thing, at least a noticeable change..

[eazye2000]

Is the arrow on the MAF pointing the right direction??

J/K man. I know you're having a terrible time. Just double check everything. It's probably something simple. Try whatever Jason tells you to do. If that doesn't work, I doubt it's going to be his daughterboard/chip setup. Not 100% sure though.I've not had any problems. I think the most fuel I corrected with his tune is like 6% and that was to pull more fuel out of cruising RPM/Throttle so I could achieve my 27mpg

[Zippy69]

We think the daughter board got fried by the first ecu. There are some places on the db that look like they got hot and some of the solder is not right.Oh trust me, I triple checked the maf direction cause I didn't want to catch a bunch of crap if it had been that simple.So the ground doesn't matter?

[eazye2000]

I don't think the grounds matter. They 'might'. So just to be safe, hook them to the ground on the engine harness that originally was the ground for the MAF.But for sure, one of mine is hooked to the harness. The other is hooked to the chassis. Forgot which one though. I originally hooked my N62 up backwards and it ran like azz. As in, I hooked up the +12v and 0-5v criss-crossed. Gave me like 3.8v with the key on, which is nowhere near right.. lol

[Zippy69]

On the maf connector B is supposed to be signal to ecu right? And E should have 12 volts. I followed the diagram in the stickies.

[spooled240]

that sounds about right..idk if you checked out jimwolf's page on "wiring a 90-96 300zx mafs to other nissans"

http://jimwolftechnology.com/w...S.PDF

another thing you can check: make sure all the wires are properly soldered and shrink-tubed, if they touch each other that can short-circuit and possibly fry your db..o and make sure the wires have a good connection with the mafs, corrosion or dirty contact points can mess things up as well..the ground wire may or may not do anything but i dont' think it did anything in my case..just hook it up to the chassis on a clean metal surface for the hell of it

[eazye2000]

Just something real quick to add to that Jim Wolfe diagram. Make sure you are looking at the plug, from the WIRE side!!That's how I got mine confused. You are not looking 'Into' the plug per say. You are looking at the MAF basically, with the plug hooked up to it.Does that make any sense? Gawd I wish I could explain things better.. lol

[duffman1278]

GL on the startup! Get a video clip when you finally get it running fine

[Zippy69]

Yeah, thats the way I looked at it, at the connector on the maf. It is labeled A-F from left to right on the maf body. So I wired the plug that way. As long as we all agree that whatever wire is connected to the "B" spot on the maf body is the signal wire, C an D are the grounds, and E is the 12 volt from the harness.Great now my brain hurts! I'm hoping that my DB from E-mance comes tomorrow, because I'll only need to change my oil/gas mixture, and then just drive.........................................

[Zippy69]

I hope someone reads this and answers before I finish. I want to know if it would be ok to stick my old injectors back in my car. I am sick and tired of sitting and waiting to get my car up and going. I was wondering if the walbro would increase fuel enough for my t-25.I don't have a fp gauge so I don't know what the pressure is now.I'm not talking about driving around at 12psi screaming, I'm just talking about normal driving with maybe a teensy weensy bit of boost.Please help before I do something stoopid!

[spooled240]

ok hold on, that sounds kinda scary lol My buddy has a ka-t running on 7psi and the stock mafs, but it is all tuned via safc! Are you talking about getting the safc hooked up(i thought it wouldn't work?) or just putting it all back to stock(injectors,mafs,ecu) with the walbro and turbo?

If so, I wouldn't want any boost because you wouldn't have a safc hooked up right? Even if you wanted a tiny bit of boost it would be hard to find a wastegate for 1 psi lol. If I were you and I wanted my car MOBILE, then I would do either:-take the turbo off and rock the stock exhaust mani, you don't want any boost(lots of labor but safe)OR:-just don't hook the ic pipe to the engine yet. have the mafs at the tb but don't hook up the turbo pipes, just have turbo blow air into nowhere. This should get you from point A to point B for the time being.

Funny thing happened to me last nite..my ic pipe blew off the mafs connector so I couldn't get any boost but ran like a stock engine. It was like I was back to square one: N/A puzzy 155hp ^man that was long

[240sxmech]

if your light is staying on on your ecu then put your stock one back in and like before i told you the injectors are to big put your stock ones in and let me know what it does then and yes it is better if you run a chassis ground to your MAF the harness looses its ground over time and MAF will not act right . change injectors and let us know instead of wasting time waiting on parts .

[Zippy69]

Ok , i won't run boost on stock injectors.If db shows up today and works, then all is good. If not, I'll disconnect i/c pipe at mafs and go another route.Thanks guys, I'm trying to be smart about this, I'm just so frustrated that I'm getting desperate.

[Zippy69]

I got my db in and it's still the same. The light is still on the ecu with the engine running. I have checked everything I can think of to check that has anything to do with the maf or the ecu. I went ahead and ran one of the ground wires to chassis ground. If I knew what else to check I would. I couldn't find out how to check to see if the maf was good. I searched, but couldn't find anything. I'll search again.

[WDRacing]

For the record, if I said you should use 550's, I assumed you would have the proper fuel management.

[Zippy69]

I thought I did. A tuned ecu. But I can't get it to work.

[coolbone28]

your ecu isnt in diagnostic mode is it?

[Zippy69]

Maybe, just maybe it might work. Jason told me to put my old ecu in and start it to see if the light went out. It did, so I swapped in the first set of chips he sent me and BOOM BABY! It worked, I think. The light on the ecu went out.I didn't want to run it very long as the crank case has probably a 50/50 mix of gas and oil. But tomorrow afternoon I will change the oil and take it for a test drive to see if it is still super rich. If all is good ,then I'll drive around a while and change the oil again. Then probably next week change it again. I hate to be so anal about it but I had a 66' 440 Magnum that blew a gasket in the fuel pump and filled the crank case full of gas, and spun a bearing right there in the shop.

[spooled240]

what light are you talking about? the check engine light? a light on the db?

[Zippy69]

The red led inside the ecu. If it stays on then ther is a problem somewhere in the communication. This was my problem. The ecu was in limp mode and the injectors were all firing at the same time. But now it might be good.I think I pee'd a little when the light went out. Woooo hooo!God, I hope all the crap is over and I can just drive my car again and enjoy that sweet rush of turboey goodness.

[eazye2000]

Sweet tits man! Post up some vid!

[Zippy69]

Yeah! Woo Hoo! Awesome! Fan-frickin-tastic!!!Got the oil changed and fired it up, still smoking like a freight train, and just would not stop. Started skipping again and just running like crap.I pulled the plugs and all were soot black.Did a compression test and #1 and #4 were at 160psi , and #2 and #3 were at 180psi. Poured oil in 1 and 4 and it went to 180psi.So I got around 6 miles on this bish before it blew.Anybody got a re-build kit in their pocket?I guess I'll build it with some Arias pistons and stock everything else.

[duffman1278]

So you blew your motor!?!?!?

[Zippy69]

Yep, I'm guessing the ring lands on 1 and 4

[spooled240]

holy shyt man that sucks! Look on the bright side, least you can go lower compression/forged pistons ??? I hope the build goes well but I really hope it doesn't happen again with the rich problem you've been having! Maybe try and get a used/new tuned ecu from enthalpy, jwt, etc??????<just some more options

[Florida240sx]

lol 160psi is not blown ring lands.maybe 120 You have had so much gas run down your cylinder walls. Add some lucas motor oil and it should seal back up. Hell even running for a few minutes... Was this a cold test or warm test?Put stock injectors stock ecu and stock mafs back in. Buy a fmu for under $50 and you'll be good for 7psi.Or if you have a fuel pressure gauge and hook up a plug of some type and raise base fuel psi.

[Zippy69]

I Hope you aint teasing me. Should I put oil in the cylinders? Gas tank?Man that would be sweet if that was all. That is what I thought at first until the engine woulkd not stop smoking.I think the ecu issue is cleared up, it was idleing under its' own power.Where is the best place to find an fmu for under $50? I looked with out much luck. I found some on egay for @ $100 or so shipped.
Modified by Zippy69 at 4:06 AM 12/5/2007