Time For a Upgrade

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
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Broadfield
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Well, my daily driven 400whp vehicle finally gave me it's first ounce of a problem after 2 years at that power level. The other day I noticed my car smoking out of the exhaust when I left from work. Promptly pulled it back into the shop and checked everything out. The oil seal in my GT2871R decided to go. Bunch of shaft play too. Also, the only cheap part on my car showed its true colors. My Megan manifold has a crack on one of the runners. I've known about the leak, but hadn't had the time to address it. It also was leaking at the head. The main flange probably wasn't 100% true, and eventually leaked.

So since the turbo is not repairable, aside from a whole new center section($850), I have decided to do a Full Race top mount manifold with a GT30R and Tial 44. I am also going to get rid of the cast exhaust housing and do one of the Tial GT30 stainless housings with v-band inlet....... I just have to talk Full Race into welding on a v-band instead of the T3 flange.

And since I am going to need to get the thing re-tuned, I am going to drop in some Toda springs, retainers and RAS's to compliment my Toda cams. I'll keep you updated, but for now, this is how she stands,



Emperor_Tha
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wow clean

ZL-Auto
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Consider Peak Boost instead of Full Race for the Manifold. Talk to Ken over there, good guy. They can also help you out on the turbocharger.

Im running a PeaK manifold and a 3071R top mount.

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Broadfield
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Yeah, I'm still not 100% sure which manifold I am going with since Full Race can not do a v-band inlet. I'm pretty sure their current collector for the T3 flange will not accommodate the v-band. I've looked into the Full Race, Love Fab, Peak Boost, Synapse Turbo etc. I want to make a decision by Monday and get this show on the road. I've been contemplating the pro's and cons of each setup for the past 2 weeks, but unfortunately none of them make me 100% happy.
Modified by Broadfield at 10:40 PM 2/29/2008

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9240sx
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Car: What i believe to be the cleanest s13 in the world.

SR20DET + RS*R-Apexi-Nismo-Trust-HKS= 100% pure love
Location: New Mexico

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Loving that engine bay man! Good luck with it

driftfan420
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Hey broadfield, let me know when you decide to purchase your manifold and which brand you're deciding on going with. I'm in the market also, and figured we might be able to save each other some cash by maybe getting a group buy. I have a set up similar to yours.

I'm running almost the same set up as you; still need to install the Nos and Meth kit next week. Let me know what you decide

Engine Upgrade:

Top end:

TODA SR20DE(T) Intake camshaft 264/10.5mmTODA SR20DE(T) Exhaust camshaft 264/10.5mmFerrea Dual Valve Spring Kit for Nissan SR20DET Ferrea Valve seatsFerrea Titanium valve retainersPort Flow Manganese-Bronze Valve Guide Set Brian Crower Exhaust +.5 Valves for SR20DET Brian Crower Intake +.5 Valves for SR20DET ER Spec Stainless Rocker Arm Stoppers Cometic 1.1 87mm metal head gasket,Copper Exhaust gasket,Metal Turbo Gasket, ARP Head studs

Bottom End:

-CP Pistons 86.5mm 9:0:1 compression-Eagle Connecting Rods with ARP hardware.-Main Bearings-Crank Bearings-Thrust Washers

Fuel System:2 Walbro 255 Fuel pumps Tomei 740cc InjectorsZ32 Fuel Filter Nissan SR20DET NGK Iridium Spark Plug Set for Nissan SR20DET (Heat 9)Sard Fuel Pressure Regulator hose type fittingLiquid filled Fuel Pressure Gauge

Power Upgrade:Greddy gt2871R turbo Taka S13 SR Bottom mount Turbo Lines:w/Taka Ball Bearing Oil RestrictorGodspeed intercooler w/ custom intercooler pipingHKS ssqv BOV w/ custom pipingGreddy intake plenium (polished)Snow Performance Stage 2 Methanol KitZex Nitrous system 75-150HP kit w/ led purge systemTomei exhaust manifold (heat wrapped)Tomei exhaust elbow

Engine Cosmetics:

Flex-A-Lite model 345 Dual fans Power Enterprise Super V-Belt (Kevlar) S13SR-Belt-Set/Main,P/S,A/CGreddy SR20DET Oil Pan S13 SR20DET Light Weight Pully SetSamco hoses ( radiator, couplers, etc.)Greddy Oil Filter Relocation Kit for Nissan S13 SR20DET MA powersteering custom line (powersteering line)Color Blue1 3/8 water temp adapter Circuit sports polished coolant tankKoyo RadiatorNISMO SR20DET Grounding kit(4 Gauge)

Gauges/Controllers:

Haltech E8 ECU w/ Map sensor Air temp sensorGreddy Turbo TimerAEM Uego (Wideband)AEM TRU-BOOST Gauge-Type ControllerSaga Technik Gauges (fuel pres, oil pres, oil temp, water temp, Boost )

ladysman
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Broadfield wrote:
And since I am going to need to get the thing re-tuned, I am going to drop in some Toda springs, retainers and RAS's to compliment my Toda cams. I'll keep you updated, but for now, this is how she stands,
Add a bigger catch can to that too.

If that turbo wouldn't have let go, I can tell you the manifold would have.

Don't worry guys, we'll get her back up and running. Hopefully we can finish my car first... yeah right.

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Broadfield
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driftfan420 wrote:Hey broadfield, let me know when you decide to purchase your manifold and which brand you're deciding on going with. I'm in the market also, and figured we might be able to save each other some cash by maybe getting a group buy. I have a set up similar to yours.
Yeah, the only thing I am fighting with is keeping the AC. The manifold I really want is not AC friendly.... or at least I have to double confirm it. If it was AC compatible, there would be no choice. Are you still going to use the GT2871R?
ladysman wrote:
Add a bigger catch can to that too.

If that turbo wouldn't have let go, I can tell you the manifold would have.

Don't worry guys, we'll get her back up and running. Hopefully we can finish my car first... yeah right.
Yeah, yeah I'm on top of the bigger catch can thing! Don't get your pooped stained boxers all up in a bind!

Hell, even if we did get your car finished first, you would still have to get clearance from upper management to drive it.

ladysman
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Broadfield wrote:Hell, even if we did get your car finished first, you would still have to get clearance from upper management to drive it.
Already approved...dik

driftfan420
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yeah i'm going to keep the 2871 until i go bigger.i was thinking of going with a 3076 or 3071. i talked with the guys from full race and they said there's no way to keep the ac with the twin scroll set up even with modification. I'm moving back to the southeast and need my ac. In all honesty, i weighed the benfits of having the twin scroll with the inconvenice of not having the ac in 100 degree weather, i think the AC outweighs the benefits of less turbo lag. As far as the manifolds concerned, I'm looking for something that has a lifetime guarantee and also heat coated to 1600 degrees, that way i don't have to run a heat wrap that takes away from the astetic of the car's engine bay. i still have alot to do with the engine bay its self to get it looking new(ie paint, all steel braided lines, samco vaccum hoses, sard fuel rail.. i want it to look really clean and show quality but also have fun at the tracks), so i'm really not going to be able to afford a whole turbo kit, just the manifold itself.

codyace
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Wow! Someone that is like me in the 'stock but not stock' engine bay department. Nothing beats a clean 'working' bay!

Also nice seeing someone else using A/N style vacuum hoses....I am converting the rest of mine over as we speak.

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Broadfield
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I made my decision and ordered up the Full Race twin scroll mani and GT3071R .78 A/R. I couldn't get them to weld on a v-band inlet, so this is the route that I chose. Faster spool than my GT2871R....... I can't complain!

I plan on fabricating a new mounting bracket for my AC compressor which will lower it more. That's the only downfall of the twin scroll manifold is that it will not work with the AC. The front runner has to be routed to low to clear the compressor. And since I am adamant about keeping the AC, I am going to try and remedy it myself.

driftfan420
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how much more lower would the ac sit? i thought the runner was pretty low making it impossible to mount the ac. I'd like to run the twin scroll and maybe go with the f1 gt35 twin scroll. and just use the zex kit to help spool it. just throwing out ideas. i haven't exactly made up my mind what i'm going to run power wise yet.

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Broadfield
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I'm not sure how much lower I will need to go on the compressor..... have to wait until I get the manifold. Which is a 6-8 week wait by-the-way! I can only go about a little over an inch lower before it hits my Greddy oil pan. If I need to go lower than that I will put a stock pan back on and run a oil cooler if need be.

codyace
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Broadfield wrote:I'm not sure how much lower I will need to go on the compressor..... have to wait until I get the manifold. Which is a 6-8 week wait by-the-way! I can only go about a little over an inch lower before it hits my Greddy oil pan. If I need to go lower than that I will put a stock pan back on and run a oil cooler if need be.
With the backets I make and sell, you really can't go 'to much' lower than what I already make, in order to clear the pan. To top it off, you also fight sway bar fitment issues in the front as well then.

When done, see if you can get some detailed pics of the T/S manifold and it's fitment

PS: It's going to close to a .86 2871r in spoool. Slightly after, but negligble at best of a differnece.

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inkslingers13
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very clean engine bays guys! looking into the same set up. im having a custom top mount turbo mani made for me, along with a 3 1/2in down pipe to match my 3 1/2in RSR exhaust! did you guys polish your valve covers by hand? buffing wheel? or did you send it out and have it done? if so how much did it run you? thanks! and get some more pics with the new set up! should be able to push your motor even more with the head being built! good luck!

JdrifterCA
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im jealous

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Broadfield
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codyace wrote:
With the backets I make and sell, you really can't go 'to much' lower than what I already make, in order to clear the pan. To top it off, you also fight sway bar fitment issues in the front as well then.

When done, see if you can get some detailed pics of the T/S manifold and it's fitment

PS: It's going to close to a .86 2871r in spoool. Slightly after, but negligble at best of a differnece.
Actually, my friend has one of your brackets.... or at least I think it's you. It's made to use the OEM KA compressor.

Full Race has a nice dyno comparison of the the GT3071R .78 A/R and my exact old turbo, the GT2871R .64 A/R. Both done on the same exact motor @ 19psi. The twin scroll spools 300-400rpm sooner and is putting down 40whp more over the entire curve. And that's faster spool than the smaller .64 A/R.

Twin scrolls have been proven time and time again to be far superior in spool up times.

Don't get me wrong, I loved and swore by my GT2871, but I am not going to spend thousands of dollars just put the same turbo back in there. If I can get more power with a lot better mid-range and not loose any spool, then the twin scroll is the answer.
Modified by Broadfield at 1:40 AM 3/5/2008

ladysman
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Lets build the block while we are at it.

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inkslingers13
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did you read my post???? polished???? ^^^^^^^^

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IanS
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Your car never fails to leave me drooling. Good luck with the upgrades.

driftfan420
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inkslingers13, I had my manifold sent out to be polished. I'm not sure how much it was, It was polished along with my manifold for about 350-400 can't really remember.

Codyace, how much are you selling those ac brackets for? I'd love to start running my ac again. Its going to start getting warm again, so i'm going to need to put the belt back on.

Broadfield, let me know if you get something fabricated. I'm running the greddy oil pan also. if you can figure something out please share it with us. I'd love to go with the twin scroll, but it looks like i'm going to end up with the full race T4 ProStreet Turbo Manifold or the peakboost manifold. what made you decide to run the 3071 instead of the 3076?

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Broadfield
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inkslingers13 wrote:did you read my post???? polished???? ^^^^^^^^
Sorry dude! Yes, you can polish it yourself as long as you don't mind a lot of elbow grease. I will polish the compressor side once I get it. Basically I will grind down the major raised areas with a grinder. I will then use a air sander with 36 grit then 50, 80 then a mini DA sander 120, 180, 220, 300, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 then Hoosier metal polish.... done!

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Broadfield
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driftfan420 wrote:Broadfield, let me know if you get something fabricated. I'm running the greddy oil pan also. if you can figure something out please share it with us. I'd love to go with the twin scroll, but it looks like i'm going to end up with the full race T4 ProStreet Turbo Manifold or the peakboost manifold. what made you decide to run the 3071 instead of the 3076?
Oh yeah, I will let you know.... that is the point of this thread. I went with the 71 because it is my daily driver. I want good response on the street but still put down more hp than my old setup. I'm not worried about 1/4 mile times..... I'm lucky enough to get a Sunday off.
ladysman wrote:Lets build the block while we are at it.
You fund it, I'll build it! I don't think your wife will mind.

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inkslingers13
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no problem man, thanks for you input, im very familiar with polishing metal. mostly aluminum. i was wondering because of all the PITA spots around the letters. thanks, ima give it a shot

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Broadfield
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inkslingers13 wrote:i was wondering because of all the PITA spots around the letters. thanks, ima give it a shot
That's why you grind the letters off!

white90esex
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I love you.... *cough* I mean your car.

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inkslingers13
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yeah i was thinking about it. thanks abunch! i cant wait to see your new set up! get some pics up mang!

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Broadfield
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Yeah, I'll be sure to post up some pics. I am also fabricating an enormous aluminum catch can, or box more likely, and will be using 4 -10A/N lines into it. Should be pretty sick. My old catch can setup was Mickey Mouse and was possibly the demise of my old turbo.

DrifterProdigy85
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Divided setups dont increase spool time. They hit the same boost as there non-divided housings. You think it spools faster because the Divided setup has more exhaust velocity resulting in more tq being made. If you ever look at a boost graph, the .78 A/R TS spools the same as a .63 A/R does.


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