The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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PapaSmurf2k3
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Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
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eat_sleep_kingman wrote:Okay i have a 90 s13, rb20det swap just bought the car. Ran the other day then when i parked it i stalled it. Went back to start it up to drive and it fired then shut off like it ran out of gas. Tried priming the fuel pump, nothing. So i hardwired my fuel pump to a 15amp toggle, pump works perfect. Go to start the car, still no start, getting fuel and spark. I checked the ecu and it was throwing code 55, someone please help im new to these 240s, still love it tho..update on the car...my cas works i turned it by hand and my coils fired, just still no injector pluse but 12v to the harness. Raining today but im leaning towards a rigged up wire coming loose under my fuse box from previous owner. The better question is.. does my fuel pump relay control my injector pluse as well as the fuel pump??? Any help is highly appreciated
Code 55 just means everything is good. What ECU are you running?
If you aren't getting injector pulse, you also aren't getting fuel. Your fuel pump relay shouldn't control anything except your fuel pump.
I'd definitely look for some loose wiring somewhere. I'm not too familiar with RB engines though. Do you know if the wiring is professional (like a harness from Wiring Specialties), or is it hacked?


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PapaSmurf2k3
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tuzzio wrote:
PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Is it an automatic?
I don't recall ever having extra connectors on the battery...
Its not an automatic, and these plugs connect to the chassis harness by the fusebox.
Just curious as to what they do.

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Well, if that's the negative battery terminal (which it looks like it is), then they are just grounds.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Zecrono wrote:Thank you GTR PrYdE for the reply. Unfortunately I woke up to a text from the guy saying he sold it... Oh well, I found an even better car in better condition: http://tampa.craigslist.org/psc/cto/4707013928.html

There seems to be only one problem with it, the guy is asking 4200 DOLLARS :wtf2:
It did say or best offer so what do you guys think I should start off with as the offer? I'm afraid if I lowball too low hes gonna just shut me down and feel insulted (thus no car).
Any ideas? Thanks!
Yeah 4200 is way too much. The dash is cracked like crazy too. I'd offer the dude like $2700. Also, that isn't a factory wing, so look for evidence of a crash and the car being repainted. You should also inquire as to what is in the box of extras.
Unless its another car and a turbo kit, its not worth $4200.

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Zecrono
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Car: 91 Hatch (Stock)
00 Celica GTS (Stock)
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Well guess what guys, on Saturday I am going to be the proud owner of a 91 hatch!! ^-^
I'll be sure to post pics when she is home. :)

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Congrats!
Feel free to make a whole new thread too, so you can also introduce yourself to the rest of the crew.

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sushienthusiast
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Car: 1992 240sx SE Hatch KA24DE
Location: Delaware

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I failed the safety inspection at the DMV today because my rear suspension was "rock solid" according to the inspector. I have K-sport coilovers and upper control arms in the rear, the previous owner had the car slammed, so there's a good amount of negative camber on the rear wheels(I raised the front and rear coilovers but the rear is still very low due to said camber). I heard from a semi-reliable source that strut bars in the rear could help mitigate the stiffness of my coilovers so I can pass the inspection, is this true or is there anything else I could do? There are no specific guidelines on the DMVs website for this.

ezjetz
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Car: 1989 s13 coupe CA18DET

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hey is there a parts wanted thread? I'm after ca18det or sr20det. From New Zealand (country) search found nothing.

Cheers

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PapaSmurf2k3
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sushienthusiast wrote:I failed the safety inspection at the DMV today because my rear suspension was "rock solid" according to the inspector. I have K-sport coilovers and upper control arms in the rear, the previous owner had the car slammed, so there's a good amount of negative camber on the rear wheels(I raised the front and rear coilovers but the rear is still very low due to said camber). I heard from a semi-reliable source that strut bars in the rear could help mitigate the stiffness of my coilovers so I can pass the inspection, is this true or is there anything else I could do? There are no specific guidelines on the DMVs website for this.
Strut bars wouldn't do anything. In fact they might hurt. If you remove them completely (along with sway bars), that would help to only load 1 shock, so you'd be getting all of the load on the 1 as opposed to spread out between the 2.
Is there not a damping adjustment on there? Ask the guy to site where having stiff suspension is against the safety code, and ask him how much he loaded the car with and how he determined it was "rock solid".

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PapaSmurf2k3
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ezjetz wrote:hey is there a parts wanted thread? I'm after ca18det or sr20det. From New Zealand (country) search found nothing.

Cheers
Here's the "want to buy" thread:
nissan-infiniti-wanted-wtb.html

and here's drivetrain for sale:
engine-drivetrain-for-sale.html

rb26s13
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Joined: Tue Nov 04, 2014 11:00 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx r33 rb26dett with a single Borge Warner 60trim turbine

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New to the 240 world here haha i just got a 240sx s13 with an rb26 and was blowing out some white smoke the guy said he never cleaned out the catch can so i bought the thing probably a stupid buy i know. well i go the clean the catch can and theres a hose coming from the valve breather and then the other hose isn't connected to anything what the heck can someone tell me if this is suppose to be connected to anything, any help would be greatly appreciated thanks.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Usually that is supposed to go to the intake tube (before the turbo, so it never sees positive pressure). But yeah, that shouldn't cause white smoke.

gamepro56
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Car: 1990 S13 Hatch

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rwlesher wrote:
gamepro56 wrote:I did some research and read that the Energy Suspension S14 subframe bushings (Part # 7.1117R) can fit on the S13 subframe as long as you retain the metal sleeves from old bushings. But from the looks of it, it looks like it won't fit or it will be a real tight fit. I'm assuming I have to cut the rest of the rubber off the sleeve and then I can fit it in? Just wanted to be sure before I start.

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I just did the same thing recently but what's concerning me is my kit came with new sleeves

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If you haven't put it back together or figured out this problem I'd contact energy and let them know you didn't receive your sleeves, they will definitely work with you and make it right if your missing something.
I got the sleeves with mine but after doing tremendous searching, I read that you have to reuse your old S13 sleeves. I forgot the reason why though. I'm assuming you got yours back in & everything's good?

rwlesher
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Car: '91 S13 SE
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Yes I used the sleeves supplied. Everything felt great the 20 mins I drove it before starting on the front. The sleeves(cups) u read about were probably the ones in the subframe. On a s13 u keep them on s14 u remove them. Use the supplied es sleeves, no problems
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hope that helped

gamepro56
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wait. what you mean when you say "sleeves (cups)"?

rwlesher
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This
Image
These are the "sleeve/cup" I'm referring to with poly they stay or they won't fit. I believe you remove them ONLY if you go solid. Now to the sleeve the bolt fits in, use the es supplied sleeve.
Burn out bushings
Clean your subframe cups good
Paint (if you choose to, I did)
Install bushings
Install gold sleeves
Install subframe

Make sure it's level when you install it the bottom bushings can pop out if it does have a jack handy an use it to press it back in, You don't have to drop it again. But you will need something to apply the pressure because of the bolt sleeve being in there.

gamepro56
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Oh ok, thanks for the tips. I had the bushings out for a while, just waiting to drop them in lol

rwlesher
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No problem

Archbox
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My S13 digital speedometer does not work. The previous owner swapped in an S14 KA and it looks like no wires are going to the transmission. Question is: which switches on the transmission need to go where to fix this? Thanks

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PapaSmurf2k3
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There should be a vehicle speed sensor plug on the trans. That SHOULD be the only one, but you might as well connect all of them while you're down there. The factory service manual should have diagrams and pictures.

Archbox
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Alright, thanks! I'll take a better look at the manual and see if this is all it needs

tuzzio
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doing a 5 speed swap on my s13.
Yeah, I know there is a ton of write ups, and believe me i've read them

It seems when it comes to hooking up the ignition and tail lights, everybody uses the auto trans harness? Or a plug off of it? well thats not really an option for me as I only have the 5speed lower harness. Is there anything I can do with what I have?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Sounds like you'll have to look at the FSM for wiring diagrams and/or pictures. If your connectors wont mate up for whatever reason, you'll have to cut and splice :/

I would think with the ignition its just looking to be in park? If that's the case, maybe find out if its normally open/normally closed (in park), and then either hard wire it to stay that way, or rig it to a switch somewhere (like to the clutch pedal :) ).

gamepro56
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Car: 1990 S13 Hatch

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So I'm doing the Z32 brake conversion on my S13 and I'm using S14 hubs. I've read over 20 threads/articles how to do it (Read the Importnut article 30+ times) and still lost. I'm almost done with the rear conversion but I'm a bit confused on how to connect the spindle to the backing plate. I think I found the solution but I'm not sure if I'm looking at these pictures right. To me, it looks like the spindle is flipped (compared to it's original format).

http://importnut.net/240pics/brake_upgr ... wap032.JPG
http://importnut.net/240pics/brake_upgr ... wap031.JPG

Even on this R33 spindle. http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/C ... 1555_4.jpg

Any help is appreciated.

gamepro56
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Ok so I had time today to try and match up the (backward) spindle with the backing plate and it matched up but unfortunately the anchor bolt that came with the backing plate did not fit into the spindle. So I assume I would use the S13's anchor bolt?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Anchor bolt?
Realistically any bolt of the appropriate size and thread pitch should work. I don't think that component really gets stressed. I'll have to look at your pictures when I get home and have better internet.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Do you have any pictures of what you are dealing with (and the specific problem)? It looks like all the pictures you posted are for someone else's setup.

gamepro56
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Well first I was confused on how to get the spindle on the backing plate but after looking at the pictures above, I realized I had to flip it so I did but the anchor bolt isn't allowing it to sit (which I guess is obvious since it's meant for the Z32 spindle) So I'm wondering what do I have to do. Is there another anchor bolt i'm suppose to use. A lot of write-ups weren't specific to that part of the installation. Plus I really don't feel like sourcing a Z32 spindle.

Image
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gamepro56
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& Why am I not getting any emails when a new post is posted?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Usually email notifications default to being on for when you make a new thread, not just reply to an existing one.
If you reply via full editor, there should be an "options" checkbox menu underneath the "preview" and "submit" area. One of those options is "notify me when a reply is posted".

If you click that, it should email you.

Can you get a picture of (and circle) what you are calling the "anchor bolt", and the fact that it isn't allowing the backing plate to sit flush? You could always drill a hole for clearance around whatever is preventing it from sitting correctly.

gamepro56
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This is the anchor bolt.

Image

The whole on top of the spindle is where the bolt goes through.
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My problem
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