The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

[Midnightblue]

I actually did unplugged in with the car started and it stayed on but no changes on how the transmission works.

And no, it doesn't shift by itself, I can put in on 1 manually and it still struggles to get up to speed, then I can shift it to 2nd and it seems to be changing to another with maybe 1200 rpm change. But if I try to shift to D it stays on that gear and just climbs and never shifts. I can drive up to about 70 mph but I don't want to put that kind of stress on my engine. Also the transmission shifted fine when I first got the car then it would do that sometimes and sometimes it would work fine, I know I started messing with the tps so could that have cause the car to go into fail safe mode?

[LukeDogg316]

It's been a long time since I posted on here. I moved on to a few different projects since after selling my s13 coupe (sc400 project SOLD, and NA6 Miata project current, Datsun 240z co current with brother)

Anyways my gf wants to learn to drive stick and suprissingly really likes s13s. So the hunt is on. I used to have a 92 coupe which I had put in an SR20 along with a ton of other mods, but she wants to keep this car stock and smog legal (California)

I know this might be somewhat a of noob question. But for some reason the only good condition, affordable s13s I can find in my area 89-90 single cam. Is there really any other downside to that engine, besides the 15hp difference compared to 91+ ?

Also decided to price out auto to manual swaps for s13s with junkyard parts and it seems the going DIY rate (with a new OE clutch kit, slave and master cylinder) is about $600-800

[peach240sx]

Hi

Thank you so much for this fantastic site.. I been looking for something like this forever.

I own a 1993 240sx SE hatchback. She is Aztec red in color. I am the original owner and she only has 69,000 miles on her. Im very proud of her.. Yes she is my baby. She will be 22 yrs old in Nov. .. in process of getting classic tags but may wait because was told can get antique at 25 yrs.

Anyway my reason for searching is im trying to get the service manual for her. I did try the link you have but it is coming up with an error. I will enclose a picture of the piece I am in need of.. Also if you know the correct name for it lol.

I also would love to get the service manual because I do have some other issues I need to get fixed. I will pay for it if need be.


I am looking for the arm piece to the headlights. I believe it's the headlight door linkedge to the motor.. something like that my mechanic said lol .. it's the arm that allow the front headlights to go up and down. Mine kinda snapped off so the headlight will drop and not go back up. I manually put that "ARM" back on. I have a picture of it from my owners manual but it doesn't say what it's called which is why I am looking for a service manual.. Plus just to have to take care of her.

Thanks again for a fantastic site

Sincerely

~*~*~peaches~*~*~

Below is pic from owners manual.. Piece I need is circled in blue.

Sorry trying to upload from phone.. Wont work... Have always done from computer unless someone knows how to do from phone.. I would appreciate it.. other wise when I get home I will upload pic then.. Thanks again

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I actually did unplugged in with the car started and it stayed on but no changes on how the transmission works.

And no, it doesn't shift by itself, I can put in on 1 manually and it still struggles to get up to speed, then I can shift it to 2nd and it seems to be changing to another with maybe 1200 rpm change. But if I try to shift to D it stays on that gear and just climbs and never shifts. I can drive up to about 70 mph but I don't want to put that kind of stress on my engine. Also the transmission shifted fine when I first got the car then it would do that sometimes and sometimes it would work fine, I know I started messing with the tps so could that have cause the car to go into fail safe mode?

Sounds like you need to plug into CONSULT and see which gear it is really in. How does your trans fluid look/smell? You might want to make your own thread about this too so more people can chime in. Maybe someone has gone through a similar experience.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

It's been a long time since I posted on here. I moved on to a few different projects since after selling my s13 coupe (sc400 project SOLD, and NA6 Miata project current, Datsun 240z co current with brother)

Anyways my gf wants to learn to drive stick and suprissingly really likes s13s. So the hunt is on. I used to have a 92 coupe which I had put in an SR20 along with a ton of other mods, but she wants to keep this car stock and smog legal (California)

I know this might be somewhat a of noob question. But for some reason the only good condition, affordable s13s I can find in my area 89-90 single cam. Is there really any other downside to that engine, besides the 15hp difference compared to 91+ ?

Also decided to price out auto to manual swaps for s13s with junkyard parts and it seems the going DIY rate (with a new OE clutch kit, slave and master cylinder) is about $600-800

I once bought a single slammer 240 just because it was a good deal and I wanted to flip it. It had pretty strong low-end torque (seemed even better than a DOHC), but lacked a bit up top (although not a whole lot).
I'd say the only disadvantage is that they are less common, so maybe parts will be harder to come by, although that engine went in a bunch of other things as well. If you plan on keeping it stock, it should be ok.
Welcome back!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Hi

Thank you so much for this fantastic site.. I been looking for something like this forever.

I own a 1993 240sx SE hatchback. She is Aztec red in color. I am the original owner and she only has 69,000 miles on her. Im very proud of her.. Yes she is my baby. She will be 22 yrs old in Nov. .. in process of getting classic tags but may wait because was told can get antique at 25 yrs.

Anyway my reason for searching is im trying to get the service manual for her. I did try the link you have but it is coming up with an error. I will enclose a picture of the piece I am in need of.. Also if you know the correct name for it lol.

I also would love to get the service manual because I do have some other issues I need to get fixed. I will pay for it if need be.


I am looking for the arm piece to the headlights. I believe it's the headlight door linkedge to the motor.. something like that my mechanic said lol .. it's the arm that allow the front headlights to go up and down. Mine kinda snapped off so the headlight will drop and not go back up. I manually put that "ARM" back on. I have a picture of it from my owners manual but it doesn't say what it's called which is why I am looking for a service manual.. Plus just to have to take care of her.

Thanks again for a fantastic site

Sincerely

~*~*~peaches~*~*~

Below is pic from owners manual.. Piece I need is circled in blue.

Sorry trying to upload from phone.. Wont work... Have always done from computer unless someone knows how to do from phone.. I would appreciate it.. other wise when I get home I will upload pic then.. Thanks again

Welcome to NICO!!! Its great to hear from original owners of their cars.

This should be a general how-to for getting to all of our factory service manuals (not just for 240sx):
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/use-ni ... abase.html
Are you saying that link doesn't work? I'm sorry, but your picture didn't load
This should be all the manuals for 240sx:
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan ... nuals.html
And this is a general directory for the 91-94 240sx:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/1991-1994_general/
This link here is like a table of contents for the above service manual links:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/1991- ... 0HERE!.pdf
I'm guessing what you'd be looking for is either in the Body section, or the Electrical system section.
Let me know if you can't find it and I can dig deeper!

[Midnightblue]

I just changed the oil but the problem occurred before I changed the oil and filter. I do appreciate that you tried to help me, I am just going to make a new thread though to try and figure it out.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Ok good luck!
If the old fluid looked/smelled burned, you may have roasted some clutches inside the trans...

[ustariz2912]

Hello. Im new here and i have general questions about an sr20 turbo upgrade. Can anyone help? I purchased a gt3528 to replace the factoy one and im trying to install it all now...

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Yeah, I'd say post the questions here, or make a new thread in the RWD SR20 forum:
sr20det-forum-rear-drive.html
Or in the 240 gen section:
240sx-180sx-silvia-forum.html

[Maddness444]

We'll, I'm totally new at this and partly clueless on this project. I have a suspension question, I'm looking for a good setup for a good everyday driver. What kind of setup would you recommend? I have a somewhat heavy foot also

[PapaSmurf2k3]

How much are you looking to spend? Do you want to lower the car, or keep it stock ride height?
Basically you have 3 options:
Replace just your dampers
Replace the damper and spring(with a lowering spring)
Replace the damper spring combo with an adjustable coilover setup.

For daily driving purposes, I would look for something with a lower spring rate, and adjustable damping.

[Maddness444]

What kind of setup would you recommend? I want a good setup but of course the cheaper the better

[PapaSmurf2k3]

If you're the set it and forget it type, Id recommend springs and new dampers. Something like KYB AGX and Eibach sport lines.
If you want to raise the car up in the winter to clear frost heaves and pot holes, but drop it in the summer, I'd go for coilovers.
Here's a thread outlining what's involved with the installation, and some theory behind suspension:
raceland-coilovers-for-240sx-install-an ... 70958.html

[r3b]

Hey Guys! Im kinda new, I posted a thread with kinda of a noobish question and got no results. Been lurking the last 3 years since I had no car Im basically going to copy past it here but TLDR version is, im picking up my first car this weekend, everything runs great and is a KA-T but only issue is open downpipe lol which is loud as f*** and the speedo doesnt work.

Are there any ways to check to see if my VSS is finished or multimeter test my speedo for anything? The guy told me he replaced the VSS with a new one and says he has no idea how why it doesnt work while everything else is running fine for the tacho and gauges. Also I know the car doesn't have ob2 so if I want a diagnostic system could I find an adapter like this http://www.amazon.com/OBD2-Connector-Di ... B0053NS0CY and use a bluetooth ob2 scanner since I have one laying around and use an app on my phone that can read ob1/consult code? I mean its 10 dollars and there are a couple free apps that can read consult so I think it would work pretty well. Dont think there is too much info on it out there on quick diagnostic systems that arent a nissan datascan

I want to make sure if there is any fixes I can do instead of spending 100+ on a new VSS or a decent cluster. If its the cluster then i'd want to swap with a 180sx koukie cluster from a local shop in south fl called Drag International which looks reputable. Hopefully they can do the install and do a speedo adjustment from KMH to MPH. Here is a picture of the car which I forgot to say is 1993 240sx s13. He also sold the pig nose sadly /: I might do a build up thread since I plan on doing major things with the car for the next couple years with a goal of 300whp on a KA, make my own custom cluster, then do some 180sx bodywork, and add a bagged suspension. I want this car to a functional DD and try to push out some decent MPG since ill be starting college in a few months. The owner at the moment has a pretty good history of the car and has babied the car a lot and done all the work from rebuilding the engine, bodywork, tune, and turbo install from his friends and family. The car is a steal of a price for the amount of work and time put into the car. He has quite a long list of mods and the car is running 223whp at 6psi with an enthalpy tune and safc ll which everyone will tell my to throwout and burn to the ground lol

But yeah any info on checking cluster wiring or the VSS would be helpful to diagnostic if its the cluster itself thats fried or the VSS is also finished after that ill go from there. And any info on a easy diagnostic setup would help also since only the last week I realized the car doesnt have ob2 and have been looking around like a mad man to have pretty cheap and clean system to check general engine problems and such. Thanks!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

For the VSS/cluster issue -
I actually need to do that myself as well... my speedometer is intermittent. Something tells me there's a short somewhere though, because most of the time it reads 0, but then it'll jump up super high, and other times it'll just get stuck (I'm sitting at 88mph all the damn time right now). I'd say trace the wiring diagrams in the FSM and see if you can find anything. Then post up and let me know how you did so I can do the same thing haha.

For the OBD1 to OBD2 connector - like you said its only 10 bucks. Sounds like you'll need something that can read OBD1 codes as well though. Again, let us know how you make out.
And welcome aboard!

[r3b]

For the VSS/cluster issue -
I actually need to do that myself as well... my speedometer is intermittent. Something tells me there's a short somewhere though, because most of the time it reads 0, but then it'll jump up super high, and other times it'll just get stuck (I'm sitting at 88mph all the damn time right now). I'd say trace the wiring diagrams in the FSM and see if you can find anything. Then post up and let me know how you did so I can do the same thing haha.

For the OBD1 to OBD2 connector - like you said its only 10 bucks. Sounds like you'll need something that can read OBD1 codes as well though. Again, let us know how you make out.
And welcome aboard!

Will do, ill be picking up the car within the next couple hours, park it in my drive way let it idle for a couple minutes and check for anything as far as codes then ill tomorrow ill open up the cluster and read some of the FSM for wiring to multi test. The adapter will probably come in the next two weeks since its most likely coming from japan.

[Jgrza]

Hello fellow Nicoclub members,

I'm John from Fort Walton Beach Florida, New to the forum and the Drift world. I first was hooked on imports when I was stationed in Japan and wanted that urge to drive and have an import of my own. I have a 1989 S13 Silviafrom Japan RHD with a CA18DET. I bought a used red top SR20DET with about 90,000km. Has a S14 turbo and pretty much all stock from what I can tell. I wanted to build a driveable car and be able to have track days to have fun. Don't know anything about building power performance, balance and stability. Don't know much about the SR. Just thought it was the right step into building a hobby and choosing a car. I've managed to find a few service manuals for the car but nothing on the red top that's in English. I have some mechanical background but nothing to brag about and most likely will farm out jobs I can't do to reputable local machining shops.I just need to be pointed in the right direction. Any and all help would be grately appreciated. Thanks a lot

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Welcome to NICO, John. Thanks for your service!
At the very least, to swap that SR20 in, you'll need a new wiring harness and ECU, and miiiight need a new bellhousing for the trans, radiator, and different power steering setup.
As far as making more power, the sky is the limit with turbo
You'll have to upgrade the fuel system before too long (fuel pump, injectors), and along with that, you'll need some method to control it. Typically a piggyback ECU or ROM tune (like NISTUNE) is used for fuel/timing and other ECU parameters.
Here's a link to the RWD SR forum.
sr20det-forum-rear-drive.html
There should be some answers for you in there.

[Jgrza]

Thank you sir and I will be searching through that link

[Midnightblue]

Hello, my engine (ka24e) won't start, it cranks but it won't start. Last time I I tried to turn it on, it didn't want to start but eventually it turned over but sounded like a Subaru, meaning it was probably running on 3 cylinders. I let the car idle for a minute and it fixed itself, car sounded fine engine reved fine. But now, it just doesn't start, I checked the ecu for codes and it gives me 55 (no malfunctions). Checked my spark plugs which I changed recently and they look a little black on the tips, but I doubt that is the problem. Maybe my spark plug wires? I have no clue how to know if those are fine and I don't want to change them to find out that wasn't the problem.

[Midnightblue]

Okay, never mind. I made it start. Gave it gas while turning the key, sounded like a subby for a sec but then it kind fixed it self. So that goes to tell me one or more of the injectors are clogged or something because after a minute it sounds like all injectors are fireing but they struggle. I'm probably better off changing all of them. I really don't want to give up on my little car.

Oh and once i turned off the car it started on the first turn every time, so yeah I have no clue.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Sounds like you should first determine if its fuel or spark related. You should pull a plug and crank while someone looks at it (connected) to see if you get a strong, blue spark in there.
If you do, you could have a fuel problem. If you turn the key a few times before starting (like off-on-off-on without cranking), and then try to crank, does it get better? This pre-primes the cylinders with fuel. You should also be able to hear your fuel pump come on.
Lastly, if you can't determine any of the above, try some starting fluid. Be sure to spray it after the MAF. It will act like an auxiliary fuel source.

[r3b]

Anyone know where to setup a vacuum line for a boost gauge off the manifold/throttle body. I have one off my bov (installed by the previous owner) but ive look at the vacuum diagrams but im so confused on where exactly I should put the vacuum line from boost controller to manifold/throttle body.

As far as doing my speedo, im jacking up the car this weekend and checking the wiring harness, checked ecu codes and got all systems good. Wire harness good then ill just swap in another cluster

[PapaSmurf2k3]

T into the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line for a boost gauge

[r3b]

T into the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line for a boost gauge

The car is already setup like that but I want independent lines. Basically I have a line from my bov which goes to a T and one goes to the boost gauge which leads to the firewall and the other T goes to another T which is the fuel regulator. It looks like this.

Here is the line from the bov and goes under the swap bar near the firewall

Then goes to a T which the right goes to the firewall and boost gauge and the left side goes to another T

Then goes to T off into the fpr


I was told to have individual lines for boost and not T off to something. After searching for hours, I saw there is a closed nipple on the bottom side on the throttle body and will use that instead for the boost gauge but now im not sure what to do about my bov line. Is there any other vacuum lines around the manifold/throttle body? If not do I just T off into the fpr or that nipple with my boost gauge?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I smell what you're cooking.
What you want is called a "vacuum manifold" or "Vacuum distribution block".
They basically run in-line with the strongest vacuum line you have (brake booster line) BEFORE the check valve for the booster.



Not that I ever advocate buying anything from Bell Engineering (horrendous customer service), but here's the one I run in my miata:
http://www.bellengineering.net/product_ ... ucts_id=99
Its pretty simple.

[givengift]

hi guys im obviously new as a poster on this site but i have used it very much through out the years i know how to do basic searches.lol my question is my 93 240 hatch has been is storage for 3 yrs now...... its time to awaken the beast to say. so when i stored it i emptied the gas did a fresh oil change brake fluid change and coolant flush along with releasing my brake pads from the rotors and stored the tires and rims in my house to keep them from rotting. so now its time to start it up and take her down the street is there anything i should do before starting her up again? do you guys recommend oil change and all that even though its was all brand new with 5mi on it before i parked? if it matters its the ka24de with 54,321 original mi same as with the chassis.

[r3b]

Oh wow didnt know there was such a thing, I'll look into this for sure down the line but for now im going just spend a couple bucks on some new vacuum lines and another T for my bov and boost gauge with that nipple by the throttle body.

One thing I never understood was the brake booster, how come lots of people T of from there for boost gauge? How does that boost pressure end up there? Isnt everything vacuum related supposed to be connected to the intake and manifold?

Also thanks for being such a help man, after I sort out these lines, get a proper bov thats not fake ebay hks one and get a proper garret turbo i'll be set for a good while. Only thing now is cleaning up the interior and get some decent sound in the car.

One thing that is a worrying is this noise when the car is reversed. The tires kinda lock up, stop and then spin. Im thinking its just the lsd diff, subframe bushings, or rear brakes. Im jacking up the car this weekend to see but ill be making a video to see if anyone else around here would know.

[r3b]

Also for the car sitting so long, I would get new spark plugs, oil flush out everything and then put oil in everything from general oil to diff oil. Maybe even use a bit of seafoam. Just replace or check general engine maintenance stuff like oil filter, air filter, belt, and pads.