The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yeah you're going to have to measure the hole in the spindle and the diameter of the anchor bolt shank to see how much interference you have.
Then you can either drill it out to match the bolt you have, or go get the correct bolt for whatever spindles you have.
OR, you can just leave the backing plate off completely.


richnalexjb
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2014 5:49 am
Car: 91 240sx Coupe
Location: Norfolk, Virginia

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Hey all... Just wanted to drop a line and say hi. I'm new to this forum and I'm hoping to be able to get some issues worked out with my car. I have a 91 240 coupe, second owner. I bought it from an old guy who took pretty good care of it. It's mostly stock with the exception of an APEXi cold air intake and exhaust with some 18", 5 spoke wheels (don't know the brand)...lol. I also just moved to Virginia so looking forward to some good chats and hopefully meet some new people.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Good deal, welcome to NICO!
What are the issues with the car?
The closest national meet we'll be having is probably in Carlisle, PA... typically held on Mother's day weekend.
We also might be doing a meet in Nashville next year.

gamepro56
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Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2014 9:10 pm
Car: 1990 S13 Hatch

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Thanks Smurf. Another question, here's the wires to my radio. I'm guessing to get a radio working, I should buy a radio harness, look at the wiring diagram for the radio and then butt-crimp them together or no? This is what my common sense is telling me to do (with my basic wiring knowledge).

Image

Harness: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BEX0A/ref ... 213MQJR392

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yeah that should plug into your main vehicle harness, and then you've got the harness for whatever radio you have. I think if you buy it from Crutchfield, they include wiring diagrams and install kits.
If not, the factory service manual will have it.
www.nicoclub.com/FSM

gamepro56
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perfect. thanks

jimmyjjohn
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To the guy that asked about rot in the last thread:
Yes, all the areas I listed are areas that you should be inspecting for rot. Also don't forget to check under the rear spoiler if it has one.

:dblthumb:

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AzzyKeralis
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Car: 1991 240sx SE
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New here, I've got an S13 with a stock KA24DE and an auto transmission and it just won't shift out of 2nd gear. I know you can make the TCU throw a code but the Overdrive bulb is dead, Anyone know what bulb it is before I tear my dash apart? and what are some reasons it wouldn't shift? It's got proper fluid and levels, but it slipped very bad before this and now it does not slip at all. When it is at the point of shifting into 3rd it feels like it goes into neutral and just revs up.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Sounds like blown clutches inside your trans, which means you'll have to repair or replace. Probably cheapest to just replace it with a used unit. How many miles are on it?
I'm not sure what bulb it is, but they might have it listed in the factory service manual, or at Sylvania.com

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AzzyKeralis
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Sounds like blown clutches inside your trans, which means you'll have to repair or replace. Probably cheapest to just replace it with a used unit. How many miles are on it?
I'm not sure what bulb it is, but they might have it listed in the factory service manual, or at Sylvania.com
Car has a little over 200k. I picked up a rebuilt auto trans today so ill take that to a shop and have it installed, I'll have the see what happened to the old one. What section of the FSM do you think bulbs would be under?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I'd guess "EL", but I could be wrong.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/1991-1994_general/

And 200k is a lot for an automatic.
The most common failures are:
1. Clutches could have just finally wore out
2. Something got overheated and either something got burned, or it changed the resistance of the solenoids so much they didn't put out the right pressure.
3. The solenoid spool valves wore out, causing excessive leakage (internal), leading to slippage, leading to blown clutches
4. Internal piston seals failed, resulting in not enough pressure on the clutches, leading to blown clutches

During a rebuild, they typically replace ALL of those things (clutches & steels, solenoids, piston seals, sometimes even springs if they are known failurepoints). It is highly labor intensive, and often requires special tools.

2Slowty808
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Joined: Thu Dec 18, 2014 2:13 pm
Car: 1991 240sx Fastback (Totalled)
1993 240sx Fastback SE (Daily)

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I'm new on here and got a simple question, not really too technical...

My fuel pump shat out on me; i never hear it prime itself anymore so decided it's time to swap it out. I know a lot of people run the Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump just fine. But I laid my eyes on the Deatschwerks 320 LPH and was wondering if it would be fine to run without my engine flooding itself. Would the Fuel Pressure regulator be able to handle all that?

I have a mildly modded KA24DE. Just simple stuff like a Koyo rad, silicone hoses, Alum. over flow tank.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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It should be fine, but I'd call Deatschwerks and ask them just to confirm. Typically if there was going to be a problem, they'd note it on the website. They are good people to deal with.

firejackal
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Car: 1996 Nissan 240SX SE

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I'm new to the site, I usually frequent other nissan sites. But looking over this site, the forum categories seem kind of bland. I don't see separate sections for S13/S14, no official DIY area, and no member builds area.

I was going to post my slow build so far to get a little advice but I'm not exactly sure the correct area to do that. I'm guessing the general discussion.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yeah, 240sx general discussion is a good place for that.

Philippeg7
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Location: Boston, MA

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Hello everyone I'm new to this forum and have a few questions. I am a huge JDM fan and am interested in purchasing a Nissan Silvia S15. I have seen some people import these vehicles in to the USA and register and title them. Well my question is: Is it legal to import this vehicle and if so what are the steps I need to take? Is it costly? Also does anyone have any experience with this or knows anyone who has done this? Please let me know Thanks all, Phil

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PapaSmurf2k3
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To my knowledge, you still can't import an S15 and register it on the street in the USA.
You MIGHT be able to do it in Canada now, and you can import one for track use only in USA, but I'd be very cautious with anyone claiming their S15 is street legal.

Philippeg7
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Ok thanks a bunch.

jschubert29
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Car: 1992 240sx s13 coupe:
-rb25det on 15 psi, apexi pfc
-pbm coilovers, spl links, sway bars, tubs in front

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hello, newbie here.

I recently installed a ka pump on my rb25 and am having trouble getting one of the joints to seal. It is the seal where the metal tube connects to the pump housing. (other end of the tube has a banjo bolt). I have anealed the old washers, had my dad make a couple new washers, and have tried hollow crush washers as well. no matter what I do, I still get a nasty leak. Any suggestions? I am using atf fluid btw.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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What pump?

I'm guessing power steering?
Inspect for cracks or damaged threads somewhere. You're talking about the leak being at the pump and metal tube right, not at the banjo bolt?

Ksned
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Joined: Tue Mar 03, 2015 8:47 am
Car: Im not old enough to own a car but i would love to have:
240sx (convert to sileight)
Silvia
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I actually just joined today and i have my 1st question...
What does each letter in the KA24DE engine stand for?
I know the 24 is 2400cc
And i know the D has something to do with the turbo, but i dont know anything else. Hope you can answer! Thanks!!

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AzzyKeralis
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Ksned, the KA24DE stands for: KA = Engine code. 24 = 2.4 Liter displacement. D = Dual Overhead Cam E = ECCS (or electric fuel injection) most engines from Nissan go by the same coding. SR20DET: SR = Engine code. 20 = 2.0 Liter displacement. D = Dual overhead cam E = ECCS T = Turbo.

Ksned
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Thanks a ton yo i couldnt find it anywhere.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Another suffix combo worth knowing:
V (after displacement) = variable valve timing. Example: SR20VET
R (at the end of the code) = supercharged. Example VG33ER

jxw747
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Joined: Tue Mar 03, 2015 9:35 pm
Car: 1992 nissan 240 sx ka24de
1992 honda prelude h23
2000 vw jetta vr6
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hi everyone i just joined this forum....quick question i have a 1992 240 and im going to be getting suspension up grades on my next project i seen a isis kit on a website that had a really good price for all that it came with i cant find to many reviews on the parts so i was wanting to know if anyone on here has had experience with this brand before
thank
Jon
Isis IS-SUSPK-NS13 Suspension Arm Package - Nissan S13 240sx Silvia

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I've heard decent reviews from their cheap turbo setup, but nothing about their suspension. You might want to just make a new thread asking about it.
Why do you need all of those components? Are you planning on running some kind of wild suspension drop or alignment specs? Or are all of your current components rotted out?

jxw747
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well im going to be getting coilovers and alot of the parts need replaced anyway some rotting and bad bushings i just wanted to save a little on these parts so i can get better coilovers i just dont want to go the cheapo ebay route ...(ive been burned before on some stuff from there) but thanks for the info

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PapaSmurf2k3
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No problem. Maybe check rockauto.com as well and just replace with stock stuff. The one big thing I advocate changing is the tension arms to aftermarket adjustable units so you can dial in your caster a bit better.

Midnightblue
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Car: 89' 240sx sohc

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I know this question has been asked and answer numerous times in the past but I am having the problem right now and I would much rather ask and get a fresh answer. Maybe.
Okay. So I have a 1989 240sx with the ka24e and a automatic transmission. The problem is I believe the car is stuck on fail safe mode or something where it makes my transmission be stuck on 3 gear. It has no initial torque when I want to take off so it's dangerous driving like that. But, I have heard that I can disconnect the most bottom plug that goes underneath the fuse box behind the battery and apparently the transmission will shift according to the engines RPM (fixing the problem). Well when I do this the car doesn't start. My question is is there a way I can make it start? or am unplugging the wrong plug?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I've actually never heard of that trick, but I'd try starting it first, then unplugging it. If it works from there on out, just rig it to a switch.

Does the transmission not drop down into the correct gears even if you manually put it that low?


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