The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

[mechanicalmoron]

Best oil filter, of a standard brand?

I've heard in real life that fram makes good stuff. But I've read on nico that fram makes junk. Currently using fram.

My choices are, I think, limited to fram, STP, and bosch. I usually get whatever I can get free with oil, but what would be the best?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Out of those 3, either Bosch or STP. I personally like purolator/purolator pure one. They have a grippy coating on the outside that makes them easy to spin on and off.
Even Supertech filters aren't the worst (as well as their oil). My 265+k Prelude agrees with me.

[jbreze]

When reassembling cams, is it absolutely necessary to use a feeler gauge and other special tools? Im trying to do this as cheap as i can because i already spent more than i wanted to.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

wait, why would you use that stuff?
Are you just trying to figure out how to set your cams?? If so, go by this:
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpd ... KA24DE.PDF

[speedeast]

Best oil filter, of a standard brand?

I've heard in real life that fram makes good stuff. But I've read on nico that fram makes junk. Currently using fram.

My choices are, I think, limited to fram, STP, and bosch. I usually get whatever I can get free with oil, but what would be the best?

Best filter brand is WIX; others I trust are Mobil 1, Bosch, K&N... so of your choices, Bosch.

When reassembling cams, is it absolutely necessary to use a feeler gauge and other special tools? Im trying to do this as cheap as i can because i already spent more than i wanted to.

I picked up my feeler gauge for like $4. Make sure you use some assembly lube, $5.

[240beater]

Ok so i changed out the window motor on my passenger side door and now the effin window glass isnt flush against the....well i guess its "weather stripping" when its all the way up so when i get my car washed water pours into the door, havent re-attached the panel yet, do you guys know how i can get it flush again? BTW im talking about the stripping on the actual door not the roof part.

[mechanicalmoron]

Ok so i changed out the window motor on my passenger side door and now the effin window glass isnt flush against the....well i guess its "weather stripping" when its all the way up so when i get my car washed water pours into the door, havent re-attached the panel yet, do you guys know how i can get it flush again? BTW im talking about the stripping on the actual door not the roof part.

You put it together wrong, try again.....

[PapaSmurf2k3]

yeah see if there is any play/movement allowed. Try to remove and re-install.

[TunerPharm]

Nevermind.....

[mechanicalmoron]

Proper method for torqing wheel lugs by hand? I do have a wrench that I think goes high enough, what's the spec, and should it be re-torqued or anything? X-pattern and repeat, right?

[jbreze]

I broke a fricken cam bracket bolt... i feel so stupid.. there's nothing i can grab with pliers and i've never drilled out a bolt before.

Is this bolt extraction kit enough? Theres a 10pc kit but thats double the price

"Four-piece bit set includes all you need to remove damaged bolts
Includes #1, #2, #3 & #4 bits, and plastic case
Works with most types of broken bolts that are No. 5 and 6 - 1/4" (3mm-6mm) "

[OutToWinPAHC]

no link to the kit but it may work, the only issue I have had with extractors are on broken exhaust/turbo bolts

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Proper method for torqing wheel lugs by hand? I do have a wrench that I think goes high enough, what's the spec, and should it be re-torqued or anything? X-pattern and repeat, right?

X-pattern. I usually snug the first 2 or so down, then move on to full torque after that. Bring them up to 80-85 ft*lbs. Repeat on the first nut you fully torqued. You won't hurt anything by hitting the others again though just to be sure.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I broke a fricken cam bracket bolt... i feel so stupid.. there's nothing i can grab with pliers and i've never drilled out a bolt before.

Is this bolt extraction kit enough? Theres a 10pc kit but thats double the price

"Four-piece bit set includes all you need to remove damaged bolts
Includes #1, #2, #3 & #4 bits, and plastic case
Works with most types of broken bolts that are No. 5 and 6 - 1/4" (3mm-6mm) "

This actually happened to a co-worker I know. I managed to get the broken shank out with a pencil eraser. Fortunately the bolt snaps before it strips the threads in the head

[speakeasy]

So... I was driving around the block, not pushing the engine very hard at all, when I noticed smoke coming out from under my hood after about 30 mins... Popped the hood and saw it was coming from the overflow tank (my tank is cracked). The tank is only about a little under half filled with coolant, but the stuff that is in there is boiling.

What steps should I take to troubleshoot this? Or is there only smoke coming out cause my tank is cracked?

[edit]just checked, radiator fans aren't spinning...

[mechanicalmoron]

So... I was driving around the block, not pushing the engine very hard at all, when I noticed smoke coming out from under my hood after about 30 mins... Popped the hood and saw it was coming from the overflow tank (my tank is cracked). The tank is only about a little under half filled with coolant, but the stuff that is in there is boiling.

What steps should I take to troubleshoot this? Or is there only smoke coming out cause my tank is cracked?

[edit]just checked, radiator fans aren't spinning...

if the overflow is BOILING, I think you're in trouble, like your motor is melted.

Does it still start? And if so, does it still run right? Does your temperture gauge work properly, and did you see what it showed when this happened?

It's possible that you have a bad radiator cap or valve in the overflow line, and it's overheating because it's not under the proper pressure when it warms up.

Also, do you have water mixed at the right preportion? Do you have antifreeze in the system at all?

The worrying part is that all the way in the overflow tank, it's STILL boiling, when it shouldn't be more than warm. Was your tank topped off before you drove? If it's empty when cold you have air bubbles and low coolant.

The fans should automatically turn on when you're idling or driving very slowly for an extended time, they shouldn't if you sit for a minute or drive.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Instead of boiling, the bubbles you see could just be a result of the coolant leaking out, and being replaced by air.

What did your temp gauge say?

[Toxsyl]

What remap should I use for my sr20 or my cat delete?
Also, does the spacer trick work on 240sxs?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

remap of what?
Spacer trick?

[speakeasy]

I didn't catch the temp gauge while there was still smoke coming out, but when I went back 30 mins later the gauge read a little bit past halfway. When I first start it up, it's on C so I'm pretty sure the gauge works.

Tried again today and did 2 laps around my street. Car starts and drives just fine for the 10 mins I was in it, though the temp gauge got to halfway again. Don't think it should be that hot for a low speed drive of about a quarter mile...

[alfsnissan]

So, long story short, I over reved for a little, i have a tin can ratte noise when i acclerate and a little loss of power. Little loss in feul economy. When going steady speed, no noise. What does that sound like could be wrong??? Its a stock KA with round 200kmiles. Thanks.

[mechanicalmoron]

I didn't catch the temp gauge while there was still smoke coming out, but when I went back 30 mins later the gauge read a little bit past halfway. When I first start it up, it's on C so I'm pretty sure the gauge works.

Tried again today and did 2 laps around my street. Car starts and drives just fine for the 10 mins I was in it, though the temp gauge got to halfway again. Don't think it should be that hot for a low speed drive of about a quarter mile...

It should warm up to about half way, and stop. It will get just as hot if not hotter at low speed, becuase there is less airflow through the radiator.

If there's nothing funny feeling about the motor and no exhaust smoke or smell out of the ordinary, I expect the motor's fine.

Are you sure the tank's where the vapor came from? Maybe you had a small electrical fire from the wires near the tank, if the tank's cracked and it splashed over and caused a short? Check for burned insulation or gummy congealed antifreeze around the tank, bare wires, or other damage. There should be wiring and relays in the corner near the battery, in front of the tank, and a fuzebox beside it.

You could also have something totally different, if your clutch was burning the smoke can be blown by a breeze from the back of the car along the side of the motor, and come up near the front of the engine bay.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

So, long story short, I over reved for a little, i have a tin can ratte noise when i acclerate and a little loss of power. Little loss in feul economy. When going steady speed, no noise. What does that sound like could be wrong??? Its a stock KA with round 200kmiles. Thanks.

You might have skipped a tooth on your timing chain or something. With that many miles on it, your tensioners are probably maxed out. Over-revving a KA could be the (quite large) straw that breaks the proverbial camel's back. I'd pull your valve cover, put the engine at TDC on the compression stroke for cyl #1 and look at your cams. Intake cam lobe should be pointing between 9 and 10 o clock on cyl 1, and exhaust should be between 2 and 3 o clock.

[alfsnissan]

I feel that i have it as close as i can to TDC and the cams are it looks like 9 and 2. ???

[speakeasy]

I didn't catch the temp gauge while there was still smoke coming out, but when I went back 30 mins later the gauge read a little bit past halfway. When I first start it up, it's on C so I'm pretty sure the gauge works.

Tried again today and did 2 laps around my street. Car starts and drives just fine for the 10 mins I was in it, though the temp gauge got to halfway again. Don't think it should be that hot for a low speed drive of about a quarter mile...

It should warm up to about half way, and stop. It will get just as hot if not hotter at low speed, becuase there is less airflow through the radiator.

If there's nothing funny feeling about the motor and no exhaust smoke or smell out of the ordinary, I expect the motor's fine.

Are you sure the tank's where the vapor came from? Maybe you had a small electrical fire from the wires near the tank, if the tank's cracked and it splashed over and caused a short? Check for burned insulation or gummy congealed antifreeze around the tank, bare wires, or other damage. There should be wiring and relays in the corner near the battery, in front of the tank, and a fuzebox beside it.

You could also have something totally different, if your clutch was burning the smoke can be blown by a breeze from the back of the car along the side of the motor, and come up near the front of the engine bay.

99.9999999999999% sure it was from the tank. Smoke was coming from the crack in the tank and the coolant was bubbling in there, made it look like a tea kettle.

Yeah, actually to be honest as I was watching the smoke rise my heart was sinking because I thought it was the clutch (I'm teaching myself how to drive manual transmission), but after popping the hood I don't think that was it. I'll have the coolant drained and replaced, hopefully that's all it is.

[mechanicalmoron]

99.9999999999999% sure it was from the tank. Smoke was coming from the crack in the tank and the coolant was bubbling in there, made it look like a tea kettle.

Yeah, actually to be honest as I was watching the smoke rise my heart was sinking because I thought it was the clutch (I'm teaching myself how to drive manual transmission), but after popping the hood I don't think that was it. I'll have the coolant drained and replaced, hopefully that's all it is.

Have the cap, and if they can, the system, pressure tested, to see that it's not leaking before it reaches full pressure, and in doing so, not cooling as well.

I don't understand how the brake rotor is secured, the FSM says nothing about it that I can find, they just skip over it in the axle part, and don't mention it in the brake part, other than tolerance. Is it just keyed into the back of the hub, so you take the hub off and there it is Or is it just sitting between the hub and the wheel?

And to clarfiy, the axle nut won't turn freely since I don't have an impact gun, it's on a shaft that goes right back into the knuckle, right?

What are the rubber and silicone greases that the FSM talks about for brakes? do I need both, is there something that will work for both?

I know this is all simple stuff that I shouldn't have a problem with, I do appreciate all the time you've spent with my dumb questions, papasmurf (and any others.... but mostly you)....

[fiznowler]

What are you doing to your car? the rotors just slip on and are held in place by wheel and lug nuts. I dont' think that 240s have a bolt on them to hold them on. Axel nut will not free spin if car is on ground.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

The rotors are held on by the caliper. You have to remove the caliper to slip the rotors off. Sometimes they get seized onto the hub a bit and require some persuasion.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I feel that i have it as close as i can to TDC and the cams are it looks like 9 and 2. ???

You just line it up with the mark on the crank pulley. That's how you know you're at TDC. 9 and 2 is a bit off, but it sounds like you're just not on TDC.

[alfsnissan]

I feel that i have it as close as i can to TDC and the cams are it looks like 9 and 2. ???

You just line it up with the mark on the crank pulley. That's how you know you're at TDC. 9 and 2 is a bit off, but it sounds like you're just not on TDC.

I didnt. I redid it and am on TDC. The cam lobs are now pointed at about 10 and 2. Everything looks like it should as far as sprocket markings. I forgot to metion that the exhaust sounds diferant now also after the over rev. Could this be a broken valve spring or something???