The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

[mechanicalmoron]

What are you doing to your car? the rotors just slip on and are held in place by wheel and lug nuts. I dont' think that 240s have a bolt on them to hold them on. Axel nut will not free spin if car is on ground.

Just replacing warped rotors, pads, and associated hardware. And praying that I don't see anything that requires new hoses or calipers to be rebuilt.

I just know nothing about anything, which is why my questions sound how they do.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I didnt. I redid it and am on TDC. The cam lobs are now pointed at about 10 and 2. Everything looks like it should as far as sprocket markings. I forgot to metion that the exhaust sounds diferant now also after the over rev. Could this be a broken valve spring or something???

Guess its time to do a leakdown test and/or compression test.

[Toxsyl]

Can I use spacers on my O2 sensor to trick the computer when I remove my cats.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

No... but you can probably use resistors.

[mechanicalmoron]

Can I use spacers on my O2 sensor to trick the computer when I remove my cats.

Isn't it just the first O2 that the computer cares about? I thought the later ones where to pop a cat code/check light, or to control secondary air valves...... does it really adjust the afr over a cat?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

No, it's an emissions check. It determines how well your cat is working. The first O2 sensor is what your AFR adjustments look at. You can completely remove your 2nd O2 sensor and just deal with a CEL your entire life if you want (on most cars). Problem is, most states wont pass the vehicle in an inspection if the CEL is on.

[allenms240]

I am installing stainless steel lines on my turbo. Do I used copper washers to seal them to fittings and/or block/turbo?
Also, what is the torque spec for these, I wouldn't want to overtighten anything.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Well, it depends on what size the fastener is for the torque. I'm guessing you have an ~M10 banjo bolt style, so figure about 35 Nm/26 Ft lb.

[Toxsyl]

I'm in Florida and emissions are not a problem here. So, please give me a list of options to delete my cats that will not cause me any performance issues.

Also any Florida residents on here know of places I can get a good tune?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Enjuku racing is out of Florida I believe. They are one of the best in the country, let alone Florida.
http://www.enjukuracing.com/
Cat removal wont cause any performance issues, just the CEL will come on. If you can live with that, then you're golden. I think you can get an ECU reflash to delete that code permanently as well. You should ask Enjuku about that. The 2 OBDII cars I own have either factory exhaust (97 Prelude), or no cats and a stand alone ECU (Miata). The other 2 are OBDI.

[allenms240]

Well, it depends on what size the fastener is for the torque. I'm guessing you have an ~M10 banjo bolt style, so figure about 35 Nm/26 Ft lb.

Okay, and should I use copper washer to seal ALL fittings?

Please no, there are only 2 banjo bolts I am using, oil feed and water return. I am aware I need to use copper washers on both sides of the bolts for those.
But what about the AN fittings that go to the turbo or block?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

The AN fittings don't require copper washers. Banjo fittings do.

[Toxsyl]

So I can just throw a test pipe on my car and I'm set until I reflash my Kouki?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

With the exception of the CEL, yes. You're not going to break your engine or anything.

Worst case scenario, if you don't like it, just put the thing back in.

[HawtShawt]

How many posts must one make before you can reply to private messages?

[Toxsyl]

With the exception of the CEL, yes. You're not going to break your engine or anything.

Worst case scenario, if you don't like it, just put the thing back in.

BRB putting test pipe on.

[mechanicalmoron]

I need an answer on this pronto, if possible.... like within half an hour, before it gets dark, because I'd like to get my wheel back on.

How do you adjust the play between the torque member and the caliper? I can grab my caliper and wiggle it with no problem, which has been allowing pads to catch and crap.

The parts are called "pins" by the fsm, I think, but I don't understand the drawing and don't want to take something out that I can't put back.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

They are just slides. You remove the 2 bolts that hold them to the other half of the caliper. They SHOULD have grease on them. Lots of it. The grease also acts like a damper.

[mechanicalmoron]

They are just slides. You remove the 2 bolts that hold them to the other half of the caliper. They SHOULD have grease on them. Lots of it. The grease also acts like a damper.

Okay, grease under the boot, you mean? Not sure they do.... I'll get on that. It just wiggles a lot more than the other side, is all.

Thank you for the timely reply..... I'm sure I'll be back later to ask how to fix all the things I'm probably about to break

*edit* how do I retract the front pistons? They don't turn in, like the rear.... I did manage to get the caliper over my new rotor though.

Is it really a big deal if I don't do rew rotors as pairs? My front pads looked fine, so I left them, and only had one new rotor, for a badly warped one. Once it breaks in it shouldn't really matter, right?

I hope it's okay, I started breaking it in. With old pads.

Either way, I feel MUCH better about knowing where stuff is now, and being able to work on it. Next I get to rebuild a caliper...... The loose one was catching because there was sticky crap stuck in brake fluid, on several parts of the rotor.... and there was dirt/fluid caked all around the piston. I scrubbed it all off with a toothbrush, but it's obviously been a slow leak around the piston.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Yes, grease under the boot.
The front pistons just press in. Take the cap off the master (so it can breath), get a C-clamp, put an old brake pad on the piston, and press it in (slowly).

You really should replace rotors in pairs (as in both front at once, or both rear at once). You can replace rotors and leave your pads, that's not really an issue.

[mechanicalmoron]

Sorry for raping this thread today, but I realized my time playing around near my suspension left me with 2 more questions:

When I bought the car I got at aligned at a local ripoff joint, they have proper racks and such but don't give printouts of what they did, or anything, and there's no competition because I live in the middle of nowhere. (they're also very rude.... while getting my parents tires rotated, free as the tires are from that shop, the fat lady behind the counter loudly said that that one belonged to the "runt", when my key came back inside the office )

Anyway, they charged me for "cams", and I get the idea they charge everyone for "cams", on an "if it needs them" basis, where EVERY car they see needs these "cams". I've never been able to figure out what they meant, even google never helped, but I was too stupid to complaign.... now today, I still can see nothing that has anything to do with "cams", it looks like toe, which I sort of think is all they do, is just the tie-rod end fitting. Can I officially decide they ripped me off? Or does something else actually use cams that would actually need to be replaced?

And;

I've known I've needed suspension work since getting the car, but it's gotten much worse. The car's daily and used for spirited/fun driving, I'd like something versitile though. Does not need to be the world's softest ride, but needs to be safely drivable on roads in a variety of conditions and with a variety of styles, and I'd like something that could be suitable for drift. On top of all this, this is a super-broke-DIY car, it needs to be, say, competitively priced. I'll probably buy used, but still need to know what to look for, as far as sweet spots for price and quality go.

Where should I be looking for coilovers, and what should I be looking for? How much will I need to buy other suspension arms and such to go with the coilovers and make stuff go in right? And, is there a way to get new bushings in while not taking the whole back end off, that does NOT involve cutting the brand new bushing, or does it really not hurt them?

[Toxsyl]

http://www.enjukuracing.com/products/AE ... 240sx.html

Is this worth buying to tune my vehicle?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Sorry for raping this thread today, but I realized my time playing around near my suspension left me with 2 more questions:

When I bought the car I got at aligned at a local ripoff joint, they have proper racks and such but don't give printouts of what they did, or anything, and there's no competition because I live in the middle of nowhere. (they're also very rude.... while getting my parents tires rotated, free as the tires are from that shop, the fat lady behind the counter loudly said that that one belonged to the "runt", when my key came back inside the office )

Anyway, they charged me for "cams", and I get the idea they charge everyone for "cams", on an "if it needs them" basis, where EVERY car they see needs these "cams". I've never been able to figure out what they meant, even google never helped, but I was too stupid to complaign.... now today, I still can see nothing that has anything to do with "cams", it looks like toe, which I sort of think is all they do, is just the tie-rod end fitting. Can I officially decide they ripped me off? Or does something else actually use cams that would actually need to be replaced?

And;

I've known I've needed suspension work since getting the car, but it's gotten much worse. The car's daily and used for spirited/fun driving, I'd like something versitile though. Does not need to be the world's softest ride, but needs to be safely drivable on roads in a variety of conditions and with a variety of styles, and I'd like something that could be suitable for drift. On top of all this, this is a super-broke-DIY car, it needs to be, say, competitively priced. I'll probably buy used, but still need to know what to look for, as far as sweet spots for price and quality go.

Where should I be looking for coilovers, and what should I be looking for? How much will I need to buy other suspension arms and such to go with the coilovers and make stuff go in right? And, is there a way to get new bushings in while not taking the whole back end off, that does NOT involve cutting the brand new bushing, or does it really not hurt them?

Maybe they are referring to the cam bolts on the control arms that help align the vehicle?
Being broke, you should probably just replace your factory dampers and keep the stock suspension. You can drift just fine with stock suspension.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

http://www.enjukuracing.com/products/AE ... 240sx.html

Is this worth buying to tune my vehicle?

Only if you have some insane power adders like turbo or supercharger, upgraded injectors and MAF, etc.

[mechanicalmoron]

I (still) have a slight shaking engine problem:

I was just checking my TPS (.46v, close enough?) and just monkeying around, I opened the throttle..... and realized my manifold has fresh gas fumes in it. The ignition was on, so priming/primed, but the car has not been started since yesterday.

Injectors should not ooze at ALL, right? These are essentially brand new ones.

I'm thinking my problem the whole time might be one of the o-rings I put in got knicked.... but I only have ONE injectors worth of replacement O-rings.....

So if I pull the fuel rail to take a gander at the bottom, will I need new O-rings to mate it back up to the manifold? Or are those reusable?

Or is it even a potential cause? I don't have gas in my oil, but I burn through a lot of oil, this is the kind of car that changes it's own oil..... so I might not notice a little gas in it.

It looks like the rail is on 2 bolts only, if I take them out can I just slip it out to where I can see the injector tips without breaking anything or whatevers?

[danshaz82]

i just want someone to double check this for me.
i put the head back on tonight and ive been playing around with the cam positions and timing (KA). i set this to what i believe is exactly how the JWT diagram shows. what do you guys think? yay or nay?

and the white marks are exactly where i marked them when i removed the chain.

[allenms240]

So I was putting on my oil feed banjo bolt for the s15BB turbo, and the oil feed on the block is stripped. I have two choices the way I see it:
Heli-coil, or
tap to AN fittings.

I want to use the same braided line (which has a banjo connector to it) and put an AN fitting in its place, and tap the block and screw it in. The banjo fitting has an end that I believe to be -3an. So I was a -3an 14x1.25 fitting. What is your guys' take on this idea? Also, I've looked everywhere for this fitting and cannot for the life of me find anything close to it, let alone something that is -3an.
Please let me know.

_allen

[allenms240]

So I was putting on my oil feed banjo bolt for the s15BB turbo, and the oil feed on the block is stripped. I have two choices the way I see it:
Heli-coil, or
tap to AN fittings.

I want to use the same braided line (which has a banjo connector to it) and put an AN fitting in its place, and tap the block and screw it in. The banjo fitting has an end that I believe to be -3an. So I was a -3an 14x1.25 fitting. What is your guys' take on this idea? Also, I've looked everywhere for this fitting and cannot for the life of me find anything close to it, let alone something that is -3an.
Please let me know.

_allen

[Toxsyl]

Is Isis a company who's parts I should even spend my money on.

[danshaz82]

Is Isis a company who's parts I should even spend my money on.

depends on what youre going to be buying.