The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

[PJames]

Can anyone please kindly show me how to unplug the fuel injector connectors (or fuel injector harness if thats the correct term (im referring to the electrical pins that go into the fuel injector))? A mechanic told me I need to change mine because they're starting to corrode, but I want to see it for myself, just not sure how to unplug em, then put em back in properly. Thanks in advance.

note: Car is a 1990 240sx, automatic, non-ABS

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Just push the harness lever and pull it off. You can inspect them for corrosion... changing them isn't really feasible unless you're going to cut and solder wires.

[PJames]

Just push the harness lever and pull it off. You can inspect them for corrosion... changing them isn't really feasible unless you're going to cut and solder wires.

Thanks PapaSmurf2k3. If they are corroded, I was planning on buying a whole other harness, too bad they're so expensive..

[mechanicalmoron]

Just push the harness lever and pull it off. You can inspect them for corrosion... changing them isn't really feasible unless you're going to cut and solder wires.

Thanks PapaSmurf2k3. If they are corroded, I was planning on buying a whole other harness, too bad they're so expensive..

You could find someone with a chopped up harness or who changed injector types, or something, who will sell just the plugs, and then solder them on (don't forget the heat shrink). Or you could just clean them out and put dialectric grease in when you plug them back in. Is the car not running right? If it runs fine, just clean them, mechanic probably wants you to pay him to change them.....

I gapped all my plugs to .95mm, thinking the tolerance was .9-1mm, but then realized it's 1-1.1mm. Should I pull them all out and do it all over again? it's running the same as when they where all gapped way wrong, so I'm thinking this should be okay? Just wondering.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

yeah you're fine.

[danshaz82]

whats the best way to remove the crank pulley on a ka when the motor is on a stand? i tried an air gun, but my set-up didnt produce enough torque. should i just find a compressor to use that has a high psi?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Or an electric impact gun, yeah.

[Toxsyl]

I'm buying a S14 SR20DET, and I would like to know what other parts I need.
I know I need an aftermarket harness, AC Bracket, Motor mounts, and transmission mounts, but I'm not sure what else I will need for the swap.

Also will changing my ecu for the S14 SR20DET ecu delete my cats? If so I will be relieved.

Is the J30 rear end a lower gear ratio than the 240sx, and what years are the direct swap?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I'm not an sr expert, but I'm pretty sure you'll be needing either the power steering pump and associated bracketry, and/or custom hydraulic lines?
Changing to the S14 ECU won't delete your cats, no. You can remove them and either trick the ECU or get a reflash/go full standalone.

The J30 rear end is for all purposes the same gear ratio than the 240. I think you have to swap axles with the diff if you are planning on having a "direct swap". Any year should do.

[jbreze]

Hi. I'm in the middle of a head gasket job on my 91 DOHC. I've been successful in breaking bolts loose using a rubber mallet to the wrench. Is it safe to use the same technique on the cam bolts, retainers, sprocket, and head bolts?

Also how do i check the timing chain for wear? since the rollers are covering the part i need to inspect. Engine is 270,000km/167,000 miles

Lastly, what could cause zero compression on ALL four cylinders? I think i know it's the valves, but i don't know what i did. I have gotten 180-180-180-170 just a week before i got zero compression. My compression tester is new.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

First of all, if you have zero compression, it wont sound like a normal engine while its turning over. It'll just be a whirring noise (no load on the starter pretty much). Usually if you get to the point of having 0 compression on all cylinders, then your timing has jumped far enough for your pistons to impact your valves and essentially s*** on your life. I'd try re-setting the valve timing and turning it over to see if you have compression before going too deep (you don't even need to re-install the valve cover for this).

Cam bolts you should use a 1" wrench on the cam itself, and a 19mm (I think it's 19 anyway) on the bolt. Opposing forces should break it free. Either that or an impact gun. Sprocket you should be ok using wrench and mallot, or impact. Head bolts you should probably just use a breaker bar, but the mallot technique could work there too. Just be careful to make sure the socket/wrench is fully seated on the bolt head before hitting it. It would suck to deform the bolt head.

Checking the chain for wear- you could just look at your chain guides/tensioners and see if the tensioner is maxed out in it's stroke.

[Toxsyl]

How many tutorials do we have on r33 rb26dett into s14 koukis? I'm thinking drop the sr and go RB26.

[mechanicalmoron]

My dash brake light comes on while I corner hard (even sort of) right, and stays on until the same sort of turn to the left. This is a recent thing, just started happening.

Is the light only controled by a switch on the handle? Because it's not moving at all, no amount of jiggiling fixes it, etc.

As I understand it, the handbrake just pulls the rear brakes directly, through a Y cable? Is there a sensor on the wheel? Is it possible that the thumping that I thought was a CV joint on hard right turns or rough road is a loose/damaged pad or something, catching? I have always had a noise/sound like that's happening while backing up, especially if it's not in a strait line, and I read that it was just brake pads that are not used to going backwards catching.....

Also, the right rear pad has some staining that COULD be fluid, but it's not new at all, and my fluid level has not dropped, or not suddenly or anything.

I also think this may be the case because of a jiggling/rattling noise that has gotten much worse since I got the car, as has the "cv joint" problem, from the right rear, that can not be simulated while the car is stationary, (could not get anything to rattle with a wheel off, bad bushings but NONE that could make a noise ANYTHING like this) so I'm thinking it's something that rattles when the wheel moves, not the body moves. Ie. brake.

Plausible? Anything common or that I should check? I'm frustrated with this, the axle is as tight as can be, nothing's wiggling that shouldn't, and I can't get it to make the sound when I'm anywhere but the driver's seat, so I'm thinking/hoping this brake thing could be connected.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

How many tutorials do we have on r33 rb26dett into s14 koukis? I'm thinking drop the sr and go RB26.

No idea, I don't touch RBs. Try checking the RB forum though. Why are you thinking of dropping the SR?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

My dash brake light comes on while I corner hard (even sort of) right, and stays on until the same sort of turn to the left. This is a recent thing, just started happening.

Is the light only controled by a switch on the handle? Because it's not moving at all, no amount of jiggiling fixes it, etc.

As I understand it, the handbrake just pulls the rear brakes directly, through a Y cable? Is there a sensor on the wheel? Is it possible that the thumping that I thought was a CV joint on hard right turns or rough road is a loose/damaged pad or something, catching? I have always had a noise/sound like that's happening while backing up, especially if it's not in a strait line, and I read that it was just brake pads that are not used to going backwards catching.....

Also, the right rear pad has some staining that COULD be fluid, but it's not new at all, and my fluid level has not dropped, or not suddenly or anything.

I also think this may be the case because of a jiggling/rattling noise that has gotten much worse since I got the car, as has the "cv joint" problem, from the right rear, that can not be simulated while the car is stationary, (could not get anything to rattle with a wheel off, bad bushings but NONE that could make a noise ANYTHING like this) so I'm thinking it's something that rattles when the wheel moves, not the body moves. Ie. brake.

Plausible? Anything common or that I should check? I'm frustrated with this, the axle is as tight as can be, nothing's wiggling that shouldn't, and I can't get it to make the sound when I'm anywhere but the driver's seat, so I'm thinking/hoping this brake thing could be connected.

The brake light thing could just be because you're low on fluid in the master cylinder reservoir. First check your brake pads- the fluid in the reservoir drops as they wear, and fills back up when you replace them and push the caliper back in. If the pads are good, try topping off the master and see if the light goes away.

the jiggling/rattling thing is difficult to diagnose over the internet without actually being there and seeing/hearing. You might want to check the spring clips that hold your brake pads in place though. If those are busted, your pad could very well move around on you.

[Toxsyl]

If I can do a RB26DETT swap why not do that over the SR20DET?

[mechanicalmoron]

My dash brake light comes on while I corner hard (even sort of) right, and stays on until the same sort of turn to the left. This is a recent thing, just started happening.

Is the light only controled by a switch on the handle? Because it's not moving at all, no amount of jiggiling fixes it, etc.

As I understand it, the handbrake just pulls the rear brakes directly, through a Y cable? Is there a sensor on the wheel? Is it possible that the thumping that I thought was a CV joint on hard right turns or rough road is a loose/damaged pad or something, catching? I have always had a noise/sound like that's happening while backing up, especially if it's not in a strait line, and I read that it was just brake pads that are not used to going backwards catching.....

Also, the right rear pad has some staining that COULD be fluid, but it's not new at all, and my fluid level has not dropped, or not suddenly or anything.

I also think this may be the case because of a jiggling/rattling noise that has gotten much worse since I got the car, as has the "cv joint" problem, from the right rear, that can not be simulated while the car is stationary, (could not get anything to rattle with a wheel off, bad bushings but NONE that could make a noise ANYTHING like this) so I'm thinking it's something that rattles when the wheel moves, not the body moves. Ie. brake.

Plausible? Anything common or that I should check? I'm frustrated with this, the axle is as tight as can be, nothing's wiggling that shouldn't, and I can't get it to make the sound when I'm anywhere but the driver's seat, so I'm thinking/hoping this brake thing could be connected.

The brake light thing could just be because you're low on fluid in the master cylinder reservoir. First check your brake pads- the fluid in the reservoir drops as they wear, and fills back up when you replace them and push the caliper back in. If the pads are good, try topping off the master and see if the light goes away.

the jiggling/rattling thing is difficult to diagnose over the internet without actually being there and seeing/hearing. You might want to check the spring clips that hold your brake pads in place though. If those are busted, your pad could very well move around on you.

Thanks.

The fluid level is above the bottom line in the cylinder, with the parking brake on. Like a quarter inch above, but above. it seems like you're right, the light comes on as the fluid level does it's thing, when the pad swings in or out on a turn.



I coasted to a stop and checked the pad, I could push it in a few mm, it's pretty much loose, it's my jiggling noise problem, and probably catching and doing what I thought was a bad CV joint shake. I also realized that medium braking eleminates the noise, ond probable the shake, so that all makes perfect sense.

What exactly should I need to do or replace to stop it?

This got me thinking, if I brake with my left foot, the angle that I push the pedal causes braking to be MUCH more abrupt, and higher in the pedal travel, been wondering about this for a while, would it be a sign of master cylinder wear? Should I worry about it? Isn't there a seperate membrane for the front and rear brakes for safety, so maybe I'm just engaguing one with my right foot during normal braking? The car does stop fast and all, and tires don't slip that easily, but maybe? Possibly related, or something that needs attention on it's own?

I (obviously) know nothing about brakes, is there anything special I should know, tools I'll need, anything special I should read?

[joe2good]

hey everyone, My name is joe and i just picked up an 89 240sx s13 today. seems to be in good shape for how old it is, newer engine, trans and suspension but apparently the fuel gauge doesn't work some of the time. i havnt had the chance to drive it around much ( i pick it up monday) but I'm just curious if this is a normal problem for this car. Im not familiar with nissans really so I'm trying to find the usual problems to look for and fixes. any help would be appreciated and ill post pics as soon as i pick i up on monday. Thanks!

[mechanicalmoron]

hey everyone, My name is joe and i just picked up an 89 240sx s13 today. seems to be in good shape for how old it is, newer engine, trans and suspension but apparently the fuel gauge doesn't work some of the time. i havnt had the chance to drive it around much ( i pick it up monday) but I'm just curious if this is a normal problem for this car. Im not familiar with nissans really so I'm trying to find the usual problems to look for and fixes. any help would be appreciated and ill post pics as soon as i pick i up on monday. Thanks!

Not that I REALLY know, but because I'm lurking around, waiting for help with my brake misfortunes:

Do you know which newer engine it is? The gagues don't work right with some engine swap combinations without some monkeying around with wiring.

It could also have either a replaced, or upgraded fuel pump (especially to deal with an upgraded engine) and it's supposed to be a good idea to replace the sensor/sender unit while you're at it, but they may not have, causing intermittant functioning depending on if something got knocked around or something. Or there might simply be a bad connection in the fuel tank or on the way, or the gague itself could be broken.

But don't listen to me, I'm just passing the time until someone who knows what they're talking about shows up.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

If I can do a RB26DETT swap why not do that over the SR20DET?

More complicated, more of a pain in the a**, more expensive, less spare parts availability, less people know about them, less room in the engine bay.

I've always been of the camp of "if you're going to go that far, you might as well just swap in an LS V8".

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Thanks.

The fluid level is above the bottom line in the cylinder, with the parking brake on. Like a quarter inch above, but above. it seems like you're right, the light comes on as the fluid level does it's thing, when the pad swings in or out on a turn.



I coasted to a stop and checked the pad, I could push it in a few mm, it's pretty much loose, it's my jiggling noise problem, and probably catching and doing what I thought was a bad CV joint shake. I also realized that medium braking eleminates the noise, ond probable the shake, so that all makes perfect sense.

What exactly should I need to do or replace to stop it?

This got me thinking, if I brake with my left foot, the angle that I push the pedal causes braking to be MUCH more abrupt, and higher in the pedal travel, been wondering about this for a while, would it be a sign of master cylinder wear? Should I worry about it? Isn't there a seperate membrane for the front and rear brakes for safety, so maybe I'm just engaguing one with my right foot during normal braking? The car does stop fast and all, and tires don't slip that easily, but maybe? Possibly related, or something that needs attention on it's own?

I (obviously) know nothing about brakes, is there anything special I should know, tools I'll need, anything special I should read?

yeah it sloshes around as you turn. Spend the 43 cents and put some more fluid in there to see if the light goes away.

Its stops jiggling when you push the brakes harder because when you push the brakes harder, it pushes the pad up against the rotor harder. That is the dominant force, and it would take a lot to get that thing to move from that position.

You more than likely need to replace your pad clips/spring clips.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/44080k-har ... 70736.html

[PapaSmurf2k3]

hey everyone, My name is joe and i just picked up an 89 240sx s13 today. seems to be in good shape for how old it is, newer engine, trans and suspension but apparently the fuel gauge doesn't work some of the time. i havnt had the chance to drive it around much ( i pick it up monday) but I'm just curious if this is a normal problem for this car. Im not familiar with nissans really so I'm trying to find the usual problems to look for and fixes. any help would be appreciated and ill post pics as soon as i pick i up on monday. Thanks!

Under the carpet in the trunk is the fuel pump lid and associated harnesses/wiring. You should check there for corroded or not fully connected wiring. If everything looks good then it might be time to bust out the multi meter to start checking voltage at different places to see if you have a break or short.

[mechanicalmoron]

yeah it sloshes around as you turn. Spend the 43 cents and put some more fluid in there to see if the light goes away.

Its stops jiggling when you push the brakes harder because when you push the brakes harder, it pushes the pad up against the rotor harder. That is the dominant force, and it would take a lot to get that thing to move from that position.

You more than likely need to replace your pad clips/spring clips.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/44080k-har ... 70736.html

Yeah I was just saying that the fact that applying the brakes makes it stop seems to prove that that IS the rattling problem.

The pads have a few mm of the friction surface, as all the others, and they don't rattle, is it something that I could bend the spring to fix, if I just took it apart? How thick should the contact part be?

I appreciate all the help, good to finially be close to fixing this after a year or so.

*edit* well I filled up the master cylinder, light went right off..... I had no idea that it was a brake check light in general, I though it was just a handbrake light. Will rip off the wheel and play with the brakes next time I have time to have my car out of comission, as I'm slow with this sort of thing....

[PapaSmurf2k3]

if it's broken then there's nothing you can do but replace it. Take it apart and see what it looks like/see what you can do.

[jbreze]

Hi. Thanks for the reply PapaSmurf. I ran into a new problem. The 10mm hex key doesn't fit the last two head bolts furthest from the sprocket. When i tap with a hammer it just gets stuck. Do i hit harder or try a smaller size? i only bought the 10mm

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Dunno, it should fit. Did you remove your cams?

[jbreze]

yeah i removed my cams. I bought a 3/8th and its a little too small, but i think im going to have to use it.

Could this be a sign of some sort of warping?



*Ok i have the bolts off now. Is it okay to let go of the main sprocket after zip tying? Do i just roll it to the toward the tensioner and let go?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I usually press the tensioners in and hold them in place by putting a paperclip or thumb tack through the "hold" hole. After that, you can pull the sprocket and leave it wherever/however you want.

[Toxsyl]

If I can do a RB26DETT swap why not do that over the SR20DET?

More complicated, more of a pain in the a**, more expensive, less spare parts availability, less people know about them, less room in the engine bay.

I've always been of the camp of "if you're going to go that far, you might as well just swap in an LS V8".

I'm anti american.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Sounds like you have your heart set on it and no amount of logic is going to persuade you. Just don't post any RB questions or problems in here when you get them. I distance myself as far as possible from it.