The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

[Toxsyl]

The Isis exhaust

[danshaz82]

yeah, theyre fine. i have the isis blast pipes on my car currently with a isis test pipe. other than that, i wouldnt bother with them. but thats just me

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I (still) have a slight shaking engine problem:

I was just checking my TPS (.46v, close enough?) and just monkeying around, I opened the throttle..... and realized my manifold has fresh gas fumes in it. The ignition was on, so priming/primed, but the car has not been started since yesterday.

Injectors should not ooze at ALL, right? These are essentially brand new ones.

I'm thinking my problem the whole time might be one of the o-rings I put in got knicked.... but I only have ONE injectors worth of replacement O-rings.....

So if I pull the fuel rail to take a gander at the bottom, will I need new O-rings to mate it back up to the manifold? Or are those reusable?

Or is it even a potential cause? I don't have gas in my oil, but I burn through a lot of oil, this is the kind of car that changes it's own oil..... so I might not notice a little gas in it.

It looks like the rail is on 2 bolts only, if I take them out can I just slip it out to where I can see the injector tips without breaking anything or whatevers?

Yes, you will need to replace all the O-rings if you pull the rail out. They typically expand in a fuel environment. Don't forget to lubricate them with something before putting them back in so you don't tear another one.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

i just want someone to double check this for me.
i put the head back on tonight and ive been playing around with the cam positions and timing (KA). i set this to what i believe is exactly how the JWT diagram shows. what do you guys think? yay or nay?

and the white marks are exactly where i marked them when i removed the chain.

I kinda need to see the cam lobes instead of the sprocket in order to give you a more accurate answer. Theoretically if you line everything up the way it was when you took it out, you should be fine.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

So I was putting on my oil feed banjo bolt for the s15BB turbo, and the oil feed on the block is stripped. I have two choices the way I see it:
Heli-coil, or
tap to AN fittings.

I want to use the same braided line (which has a banjo connector to it) and put an AN fitting in its place, and tap the block and screw it in. The banjo fitting has an end that I believe to be -3an. So I was a -3an 14x1.25 fitting. What is your guys' take on this idea? Also, I've looked everywhere for this fitting and cannot for the life of me find anything close to it, let alone something that is -3an.
Please let me know.

_allen

Oil feed on the block as in, engine block?

I'd heli-coil first. If it leaks, then do something else.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

The Isis exhaust

You could always go with BRM exhaust too. I've never heard anything but praise about them.

[allenms240]

So I was putting on my oil feed banjo bolt for the s15BB turbo, and the oil feed on the block is stripped. I have two choices the way I see it:
Heli-coil, or
tap to AN fittings.

I want to use the same braided line (which has a banjo connector to it) and put an AN fitting in its place, and tap the block and screw it in. The banjo fitting has an end that I believe to be -3an. So I was a -3an 14x1.25 fitting. What is your guys' take on this idea? Also, I've looked everywhere for this fitting and cannot for the life of me find anything close to it, let alone something that is -3an.
Please let me know.

_allen

Oil feed on the block as in, engine block?

I'd heli-coil first. If it leaks, then do something else.

That is the way I went. It sucks that each kit is about $40-50 for different sizes. I just fixed my stripped exhaust stud home on the engine block, and now I have to buy a whole nother kid for the oil feed. But I want to do it right, not have leaks pissing everywhere, so pay to play.
Thanks for the advice.

Allen

[danshaz82]

I kinda need to see the cam lobes instead of the sprocket in order to give you a more accurate answer. Theoretically if you line everything up the way it was when you took it out, you should be fine.

ah sorry about that. here ya are

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Looks good!

[danshaz82]

cool. thanks!

[Toxsyl]

I've seen this on some builds on this site so buy this radiator would be a good idea?
http://www.enjukuracing.com/products/Mi ... -KA24.html

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I run that exact radiator in my 91. It works really well. That being said, you don't NEED to upgrade the radiator unless your current one is damaged, or you're experiencing overheating.

[Toxsyl]

I was thinking to use it when I do my rb25 swap.

[speakeasy]

I've seen this on some builds on this site so buy this radiator would be a good idea?
http://www.enjukuracing.com/products/Mi ... -KA24.html

I think this is the radiator I'm using, same price as the one you linked but designed for the RB, not the KA:

http://www.rawbrokerage.com/Mishimoto-A ... 0-95RB.htm

[PapaSmurf2k3]

yeah change the radiator when you do the swap and buy the specific radiator for that engine, as the inlets/outlets could be different.

[speedingmofa]

Hi guys,
I could get me an S13 A/T with a CA18DET for about 800 euros.
Is it worth the 2k for a front clip with a M/T and SR20DET? Or am I better off working on the CA18DET. Either way, I'd like to convert the car into a manual.

All the work will be done by me and maybe a helping hand.

Goals: daily driven 400hp reliably
Future plans: replace head with a 20VE head for better low end torque and great top end power and of course better mpg

[PapaSmurf2k3]

if I were you, I'd stick with the CA as long as it is in good knack. Also, I'm no CA expert by any means, but you might be better off saving money on the head swap and putting it into more/better turbo goodies, fuel system, engine management, etc.

What country are you in?

[Toxsyl]

So in the Raw Brokerage RB25DET Deluxe swap kit I noticed a Coilpack and Injector harness options. What would those do, and am I better off grabbing those in the package?

Also noticed something whats the difference between the R33 RB25DET S1 and S2?

[Coolwhip]

So in the Raw Brokerage RB25DET Deluxe swap kit I noticed a Coilpack and Injector harness options. What would those do, and am I better off grabbing those in the package?

Also noticed something whats the difference between the R33 RB25DET S1 and S2?

The coilpack and injector harness are just additional sub-harnesses that do not come with the new engine harness. Most people re-use their old ones as others replace them with new ones. No additional wiring is required with either option.

Regarding purchasing the engine harness or swap package, the S1 and S2 does not matter. The differences between these motors are mainly electrical found between the MAF, TPS, Coil packs, and ECU. The harnesses we sell are designed to work on either engine.

Hope that helps. Feel free to email me if I can assist with anything on the website... [email protected]

[speedingmofa]

if I were you, I'd stick with the CA as long as it is in good knack. Also, I'm no CA expert by any means, but you might be better off saving money on the head swap and putting it into more/better turbo goodies, fuel system, engine management, etc.

What country are you in?

Papasmurf, I'm from the Netherlands.

You're right, the head swap will not be cheap. But this is something I plan in the long run. By then I think I'd already have all the goodies. The head swap will only release a few more horses. But this is only if I have the SR in. Most people advise me to keep the CA18 until it fries... And then, maybe then, source for a SR front clip. CA18 blocks cost no more than 400 euros over here, so they're really cheap compared to the SRs

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Yeah the CA is a very capable powerplant. If you've got money to burn and just want to be different, then sure, go for the SR!

Welcome to NICO! Your English is perfect. I haven't been to the Netherlands since 2007 I need to get back over there.

[speedingmofa]

I guess I'll be sticking to the CA for awhile then

Thank you sir. Well, nothing has changed since then. Lots of rain and high taxes for everything...

[charat]

Hey guys. I've searched a little but i figure this is a simple enough question that i could get a quick and easy answer.

I recently purchased a rebuilt KA24DE from a buddy of my uncle's. He told me it is an OBD2. This wouldn't be a problem but i have a 92 s13 and to my knowledge it is OD1...

Would replacing the engine with the OBD2 be as simple as just pulling the old engine out and putting the new one in? What do i need to do to have the OBD2 engine work? new ECU/reflash?

Thanks in advance guys.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I THINK you can put a new KA in the old OBDI chassis without any issues (you'll just have some sensors that aren't hooked up), but you can't put an old KA in a new S-chassis without swapping the intake manifold.

Worst case scenario, I think you have to swap intake manifolds.

[sunhawk]

Power Antenna Problems

the original power antenna finally broke on my 1995 240sx se. the plastic toothed cord that pushes and pulls on the mast broke.

so i went and bought a generic replace power antenna assembly from autozone. i removed the old antenna assembly and clipped the connector from the car's wiring harness and stirpped the wires and twisted them on wires of the new antenna assembly.

i turned the car on and the radio is now dead and the digital clock in the speedometer is also now non functional. the radio and the clock still light up when i turn on the head lights. but the radio just doesn't turn on. i tried it with the new antenna not wired up, with the wires connected both ways. i checked all the audio fuses both under the hood and the interior box. every thing else electrical works just fine too.

what did i do wrong and how do i fix this ?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Sounds weird. I wouldn't think the antenna would have that much authority over everything else. The only thing I can think of is if you somehow shorted it out and blew something.

You should post this as its own thread.

[Jking1202]

Well I am new to the Nissan world and i actually just bought my 240sx toy to play with. The car is a 240sx s14 with a stock KA. Now I towed her home but when i checked her out completely i noticed a wierd noise coming from the motor. Its a bit of a rattle noise and its from the top of the valve cover. First thing i thought was a valve.

I took it to a local mechanic and they said its a chain problem and that its VERY common with the KA motor and that it would cost $400 to fix. Does this sound accurate, with the whole common problem from the chain.

Any input would be helpful Thanks guys.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Does it kinda sound like marbles in a can?
You can try pulling your valve cover off and see if your KA has an upper timing chain guide. If it does, you can remove it. Later S14s didn't even come with it from the factory. It isn't needed and is just known to cause noise. Total cost? Free if you have a re-useable valve cover gasket, or about $14 if you don't (to replace valve cover gasket).

The timing chain is intended to last the life of the vehicle.

[Jking1202]

awsome man thank you i have also heard about the timing chain guide being an issue sometimes. the motor only has 119k miles which i found awkward as well that the chain was what was messed up.

[TunerPharm]

Heys guys I need a little help before I go and make the wrong decision. I currently have a s14 silvia with sr20DE with a ebay turbo kit installed. I want to swap that motor out for a sr20DET. Now I was told by a mechanic/friend that I should get the s13 sr20det, due to it being able to be modded more? And I wouldn't have to worry about the VCT hich is currently sounding like a marble in the can due to the tensioner.

Anyway my question to you guys is, aside from the motor what all do I need to complete this swap? The s13 redtop could bolt right up to my s14 transmission? Help and assistance is much appreciated.