Slideways^Jordan's SR Head Build / Turbo and Question thread.

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
User avatar
Slideways^Jordan
Posts: 703
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 11:24 pm
Car: 1989 240sx Coupe-1991 240sx Hatch back

Post

ok emil has been sent and im uploading more pics right know.


User avatar
Slideways^Jordan
Posts: 703
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 11:24 pm
Car: 1989 240sx Coupe-1991 240sx Hatch back

Post








User avatar
Slideways^Jordan
Posts: 703
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 11:24 pm
Car: 1989 240sx Coupe-1991 240sx Hatch back

Post

hey idaho and inkslinger do yall have AIM? My name on AIM is JordanS13Silvia

User avatar
inkslingers13
Posts: 1063
Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2007 5:32 pm
Car: 1985 Corolla Gt-S

Post

nah i dont lol. i finished my wire tuck lol. infact in the pics the whole harness is put in lol. im OCD everything has to be clean whats everyone think?

User avatar
Slideways^Jordan
Posts: 703
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 11:24 pm
Car: 1989 240sx Coupe-1991 240sx Hatch back

Post

wow i cant even see the harness

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

yep. idahotuner is the AIM name.

User avatar
inkslingers13
Posts: 1063
Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2007 5:32 pm
Car: 1985 Corolla Gt-S

Post

hey idaho what do you think? and thanks jordan. you have mail again about that stupid bolt

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

i think it looks sweet.the green could be just a little darker.

do you want to come finish my wire tuck for me

also the rear end pic looks weird. like the center garnish sticks out to far.

i bet you scrap your exhaust alot huh.

User avatar
inkslingers13
Posts: 1063
Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2007 5:32 pm
Car: 1985 Corolla Gt-S

Post

idahotuner wrote:i think it looks sweet.the green could be just a little darker.

do you want to come finish my wire tuck for me

also the rear end pic looks weird. like the center garnish sticks out to far.

i bet you scrap your exhaust alot huh.
my exhaust is just hanging right now lol thats why it looks so low, but it being dumped on teins doesn't help.

the tail lights are ebay altezzas thats i wrapped in red wrap. so they dont fit the best. but i like them. IMO they look good for what they are.

as far as your wire tuck, its cake man, just hide everything

send me some pics of your engine bay to [email protected], and ill circle what you can hide

thanks for the complements

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

just use these all the stuff that needs hidden is on the passenger side. and i dont feell like cutting and splicing to hide it.

i will take some new pics of it today.

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

crap that one is fuzzy. here is a different one.

User avatar
Slideways^Jordan
Posts: 703
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 11:24 pm
Car: 1989 240sx Coupe-1991 240sx Hatch back

Post

haha sweet hey i emailed you back ink abot that bolt lol i know what your talking about now.

User avatar
inkslingers13
Posts: 1063
Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2007 5:32 pm
Car: 1985 Corolla Gt-S

Post

nope you still dont lol. and idaho you can start by moving your throttle cable. and run your catch can hose under your hot pipe, get a slim fan to get rid of your fan shroud and fan. thats a dam good start, other then that it looks good. just move stuff around so its harder to see, and your wiper motor needs to be black, along with your fuse box cover. anything thats black makes it cleaner

User avatar
Slideways^Jordan
Posts: 703
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 11:24 pm
Car: 1989 240sx Coupe-1991 240sx Hatch back

Post

inkslingers13 wrote:nope you still dont lol. and idaho you can start by moving your throttle cable. and run your catch can hose under your hot pipe, get a slim fan to get rid of your fan shroud and fan. thats a dam good start, other then that it looks good. just move stuff around so its harder to see, and your wiper motor needs to be black, along with your fuse box cover. anything thats black makes it cleaner
sorry i emailed you back

User avatar
Slideways^Jordan
Posts: 703
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 11:24 pm
Car: 1989 240sx Coupe-1991 240sx Hatch back

Post

ok new update i hooked up my booost gauge right in the middle of the FPR line and it was only reading 7-10psi ideling rough? any insight!!

User avatar
inkslingers13
Posts: 1063
Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2007 5:32 pm
Car: 1985 Corolla Gt-S

Post

7-10psi vacuum? or psi?

User avatar
Slideways^Jordan
Posts: 703
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 11:24 pm
Car: 1989 240sx Coupe-1991 240sx Hatch back

Post

inkslingers13 wrote:7-10psi vacuum? or psi?


LOL sorry it was 7-10 vacume at idle

User avatar
inkslingers13
Posts: 1063
Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2007 5:32 pm
Car: 1985 Corolla Gt-S

Post

that should be normal, when your driving it will be around 15 i believe

User avatar
Slideways^Jordan
Posts: 703
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 11:24 pm
Car: 1989 240sx Coupe-1991 240sx Hatch back

Post

idk i dont think thats where its supposed to be at idle it should be around 18-21 vacume, but idk if putting a thicker head gaskit will lower the vacume like how it lowers the compression a little bit.

User avatar
inkslingers13
Posts: 1063
Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2007 5:32 pm
Car: 1985 Corolla Gt-S

Post

huh thats odd. i really dont know then

datsun2401972
Posts: 540
Joined: Sun May 21, 2006 10:04 am
Car: 90 Nissan 240SX XE coupe

Post

Slideways^Jordan wrote:Also i checked my compression after the motor has been sitting for a year and after changing the headgaskit this is what i got. 100-110-100-110 I never got a chance to check it before i did all the upgrades
Awesome build thread! You too idahotuner. And very cool car ink.

I haven't looked at factory spec compression readings, but those sound low. My sr has been sitting for over a year now, and I fear the cylinders have oxidized. The oxidation will wipe out the piston rings. And then I'll have to rebuild the whole thing. I should have put dissecant spark plugs in when I first bought the swap....

I really do hope those are good compression readings for your mods though!

Make sure your turning the engine over 4 times to get a good consistent reading on your compression gauge, then put a couple squirts of oil in the cylinder and let it settle around the piston rings for a minute. After that repeat your compression test and see if the numbers go up dramatically. That should give you a good idea if your rings are blown/needs rebuilt.

Hell, a rebuild is just a good excuse for race guts right?...I still hope I don't have too ...

Also make sure you T/B is fully open when cranking the engine. And the engine should be at operating temperature...

Did a little search and came up with this link zer...35565 to amoebassassins post about his compression.

His was in the 160-165 range. Other threads I read said 155 standard to 125 minimum . If my cylinders show under 155 I think I'll rebuild.
Modified by datsun2401972 at 4:27 AM 6/1/2008

User avatar
inkslingers13
Posts: 1063
Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2007 5:32 pm
Car: 1985 Corolla Gt-S

Post

i think Jordan is talking about his boost gauge. its reading negative 7-10 vacuum.not a comp test. good info though.

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

his vaccum is like that because of his cams. there are 272.

with stock cams the vaccum is around 20. thne 264s like mine are about 15 and then 272 would be at about 10.

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

one thing you guys need to realize. is that if the engine is sitting for a long time then the oil settles down in the bottom and doesn't keep the rings lubricated. which means they arnt sealing as well for doing a compression test. now before you do a compression test. take out the spark plug and put a teason of oil in to each cylinder through the spark plug hole. then left it sit for about 10-15 mins. then turn it over by hand or how ever you want. then you can do you compression test. the point is to get those ring lubed up again.

and you will deff notice a difference.

User avatar
Slideways^Jordan
Posts: 703
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 11:24 pm
Car: 1989 240sx Coupe-1991 240sx Hatch back

Post

Update...

Thanks for the input guys very nice. Thanks but i know how to check compresion. But Thanks for your input any way it still helps.

HeadgaskitOK so yes i checked my compresion while it still being cold and sitting after a year but also i changed my headgaskit so i was a little curious to see how close the cylinders are to each other. I do know if you put oil in the cyl and let it sit then if the cyl compression goes up then the rings are sealing if it stays the same then its the headgaskit. Im pretty damn sure my compression is fine i just havent had the chance to check it after it being warm becuase it keeps dieing. So now that i have a timeing light im going to check that and try to get a good reading and see where its at while the time that it can run maybe ill find out something and then ill go from their.

Vacume

when i checked my vacume i saw my gauge reading 7-10 vacume. Now ive been told that bigger cams would lower the vacume some and i hope thats tru it probly is but back when i installed the cams i checked my clearences between my cams and the rocker pad and they were perfect so i would assume that the valves are sealing. And all of my vacume hose are sealed tight along with the intercooler.

Fuel

now the problem im haveing with fuel is that after its been running for a minute or 2 it just dies and when i try to start it again it cant fire up because of spark it wants to but its really hard. Now before i took my spark plugs out and they were black so it is runnng super rich. I orderd a NISMO type A FPR so its on the way and i have a walbrrow 255 fuel pump.

Also it ideals rough from around 600 RPM - 1000RPM repeadly.

Modified by Slideways^Jordan at 8:23 PM 6/1/2008

Modified by Slideways^Jordan at 8:24 PM 6/1/2008
Modified by Slideways^Jordan at 8:32 PM 6/1/2008

User avatar
inkslingers13
Posts: 1063
Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2007 5:32 pm
Car: 1985 Corolla Gt-S

Post

as far as fuel, wouldn't that be because your car isn't tuned and your running 740cc injectors? or am i way off?

User avatar
Slideways^Jordan
Posts: 703
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 11:24 pm
Car: 1989 240sx Coupe-1991 240sx Hatch back

Post

inkslingers13 wrote:as far as fuel, wouldn't that be because your car isn't tuned and your running 740cc injectors? or am i way off?
your way off

My car has enthalpy Tune and 810CC DeatschWerks injectors.

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

wait i thought you hada tuned ECU. that would deffiently be a problem. if you have 740 cc injectors and are tuned for 370cc ones. would car flooding and running rich.

User avatar
Slideways^Jordan
Posts: 703
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 11:24 pm
Car: 1989 240sx Coupe-1991 240sx Hatch back

Post

^^^^lol I do looks like we posted at same time ^^^^^

User avatar
inkslingers13
Posts: 1063
Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2007 5:32 pm
Car: 1985 Corolla Gt-S

Post

my bad lol!!! i have 740cc lol well $hit i dont know then... but you have mail again


Return to “SR20DET Forum (rear-drive)”