Q45 Oil Pan R&R advice

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tangalora
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Q45tech wrote:... You need a special engine support frame, cross shaped with legs that sit on the cowl, front support, and each inner fender. Where to support the engine (with chains) is the trick ...
DAEDALUS wrote:... this is the support contraption I bought ...
It looks like you chose the OTC 1724 (three bar) "Transverse Engine Support Bar" which apparently has a description of:"This three bar transverse engine support bar provides a stable three point support of front wheel drive vehicle engines for removal of transaxle. It has a 700 lb. capacity and expands to 61" wide. Included: support arm, transverse engine bar and cable sand hooks. Weight: 21 lbs. Manufactured by OTC.

(I'm curious; how does a "sand" hook differ from a regular hook?)

After a bit of research, I find that Owatonna Tool Company 3-bar transverse engine support in the Internet for between $200 and $300 + tax + shipping. Does anyone know if this OTC engine support actually will work (and how heavy a Q45 engine might be)?

See the photo below for my quick research on the various types of single and multi-bar transverse engine supports.

(BTW, I isolated the picture viewing problem to NICO interacting with cookies since I can reliably see pictures ONLY if I go to the NICO user control panel and press the reset cookies button each time I view a page in various browsers and with cookies totally tuned to the least secure setting.)



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tangalora
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elwesso wrote:Have you started the Q45 oil pan R&R job yet? You are enlightening all of us, and I have learned a ton from this thread!
Well, I was kind'a depressed & was sort'a avoiding NICO 'cause I hadn't gotten' anywhere impressive, but, with your recent help, we've together figured out (at least) where to properly attach the engine, and which parts to order, with what bolts, etc. That's a start, isn't it? (or is that nowhere?)

At the moment, I'm waiting for the slinger & bolts to arrive from Scottsdale.

Fortuitously, a coworker who happened to read this thread recognized me and called this weekend to offer his cherry picker; so, I simply need to decide whether to borrow the freebie engine hoist, or risk the makeshift contraption (see my photo below), or safely order the two hundred dollar 3-bar OTC transverse engine support bar. I'm not 'xactly sure what to do.

About the only thing preventing me from driving over to pick up the offered cherry picker is the fact that those legs will be under the Q45 and they just might block the removal of the front crossmember and maybe even the oil pan itself. Dunno. Even so, the engine hoist legs will almost assuredly block my egress to and from the underside of the engine from the wheel wells; I'll have to crawl up the centerline of the Q45 from the rear, after jacking up the frame. So, even though it's free, the hoist might not be the right tool for the job.

Renting a good solid three-legged transverse engine support bar seems so very much more efficient; but it too won't be effective 'cause I'm sure I'll have the engine supported for a long time (it takes me ten times longer to do a job than it takes you folks). So, I'm inclined to spring for the 250 bucks (assuming shipping & tax) for the professional OTC engine support bar like DAEDALUS suggested. Since I'm sooooo very indecisive, any decent advice in this area of concern will tend to sway me in my moments of indecision.

Thanks everyone for picking up my spirits; I'm so much more emotional about these kinds of things than you think. So, it helps to have "a posse", like you around.

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tangalora
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911/Q45 wrote:... the bosses are actually on the drivers side head, not the block. Once you remove the intake and throttle body dreck, all will be crystal clear ...
Thanks for the clarification. I had never heard of a boss before, & I'm not sure what the head is vs the block, so I very much appreciate any and all clarifications. It's how I learn. Plus, when I finally write this up, I can use the correct words. That's good for others who will be less confused than I was before I started this oilpan R&R job.

If you're interested, at this web site is the only shot I can find on the Internet of the OTC 3-bar engine support in action on a vehicle with off-center slingers located on the passenger-side rear and the driver-side front (as in the 1990 Infiniti Q45).

http://www.mytoolstore.com/otc/1724.htmlThe specific link to the photo of the OTC engine support in action being at:http://www.mytoolstore.com/otc/1724c2.jpg

The best price I can find on the Internet (prior to tax + shipping) is $200.27 at thetoolwarehouse:http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-1724.html

A similar price is $201.25 (prior to tax + shipping) at sjdiscounttools:http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/otc1724.html

This certainly seems like a lot for such a simple 3-bar apparatus.

Note: The 3 bars are the original crossbar, the extension crossbar, and the leg holding that extension crossbar to the cowl (as Dennis mentioned).

Does anyone know if there is a less expensive source for the OTC 3-bar Transverse Engine Support Bar (part number 1724)?


911/Q45
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I think the sand hooks are a typo, should read "cables and hooks". The block is where the crankshaft and pistons are, heads attach to the top of the cylinders and hold the valves and camshafts, topped off by the cam covers. The Q engine weighs about 500 lbs and the trans adds another 150 lbs. so look for a minimum 700 lb capacity to be safe.

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tangalora
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911/Q45 wrote:should read "cables and hooks" ... look for a minimum 700 lbs capacity to be safe.
Excellent descriptive observation and safety recommendation!In hind sight, everything asked so far seems wonderfully simple (once we know the correct answer).

In this case, many ads for the Owatonna Tool Company "transverse engine support bars" state "cable sand hooks" (e.g., http://www.sjdiscounttools.com, http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net, http://www.tooltopia.com, etc.). One the other hand, ( http://www.lpcinc.us/otc_shop_equipment.htm ) supports 911/Q45's supposition by stating "Comes with cables and adjustable hooks".

Similarly, http://www.mytoolstore.com/otc/1724.html accounts for the Q45 engine support using descriptive copy of:----- OTC 1724 - Three-bar engine support:----- Supports engine of front-wheel-drive vehicles for removal of transaxle. ----- Includes the OTC No. 1722 transverse engine support bar ----- (with 1/8" braided steel cable and 14" hook),----- and the No. 214068 support arm (to provide three-point support for off-center loads). ----- OTC #1724 Includes all cables and adjustable hooks. ----- 700 lb.capacity, Wt. 21 Ibs.

The next step to ponder is how to bolt the front engine slinger onto the cylinder head (this is not covered anywhere in the 1990 FSM as far as I can tell). If we're lucky, we can get the bolts on without removing anything on top; if not, stuffs' will have to come off before we can get those bolts tight on those soft aluminium bosses.

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tangalora
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911/Q45 wrote:I'll bet the attachment point for the driver's side slinger will become obvious once you remove all the dreck that covers that area. Wish I were closer to Sacramento so I could dig into this with you.
I should receive the front slinger from Scottsdale Infiniti today or tomorrow.

I can't find anything in the FSM discussing how to install the front engine slinger (all the text & diagrams assume it's already installed!). Any idea if the "dreck" removal can be avoided when installing the front engine slinger?

That is, can we possibly install the two front engine slinger bolts on the 1990 Q45 WITHOUT removing stuff?

911/Q45
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You'll have to remove the large intake hose anyway to attach the slinger to a chain or cable and that may be enough. If your car has over 100K miles, consider replacing the very difficult to access motor mounts while you are in there.

911/Q45
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I'm passing through Sacramento this Friday, email me if you want me to stop by and look at your Q. [email protected]

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tangalora
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911/Q45 wrote:... consider replacing the motor mounts ...
How can we tell if the motor mounts are really bad?

It seems we will likely remove two of the three nuts on each of two motor mounts attached to the engine crossmember (based on my interpretation of diagram SEM872C on page EM-40 of the 1990 Infiniti Q45 factory shop manual) to drop the crossmember for access to the oil pan.

That would seem to leave the two motor mounts hanging by the last remaining nut inside a bracket attached to the engine block. I didn't order the motor mounts from Scottsdale Infiniti because I have no indication they are bad. The pair is over 175 dollars (which isn't chump change to me), so I wouldn't want to replace them without some indication of their bounce worthiness.

How can we positively test the motor mount?


911/Q45
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Test the mounts by revving the engine slightly in gear with the hood open. If the engine lifts on either side more than 3/4", the mounts are bad. Do it in forward and reverse.

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tangalora
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911/Q45 wrote:Test the mounts by revving the engine slightly in gear with the hood open. If the engine lifts on either side more than 3/4", the mounts are bad. Do it in forward and reverse.
Thanks. I was wondering how to test 'em for a while.

Too bad I didn't know of that dynamic diagnostic test ahead of time (I had done a search on NICO where folks referred to a test for motor mounts but I couldn't actually find that Q45 motor-mount test recommendation).

Since my VH45DE has been without oil for a month, I'm stuck with static tests for motor mounts. I wonder if just looking closely will show any problems in the mounts?

The parts from Joe didn't arrive yet; even so, I decided to order the OTC engine support tool which will arrive in a week or so. Once that arrives, I can then roll up my sleeves and power up the laptop at my side, and, armed with my trusty old toolbox, NICO, and a digital camera, I just might have the guts to attempt this DIY Q45 oilpan removal & replacement procedure (which, I admit, will take weeks instead of just an 8-hour shop-rate day).

Too bad I'm not paid by the hour

911/Q45
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It's probably worth 6 quarts of oil to do the test, then drain it out. You don't want to remove that crossmember twice!

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tangalora
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Woo hoo! Federal Express shipped the 70 pound SPX/OTC 1724 engine support bars overnight to me (from 655 Eisenhower Drive, Owatonna, Minnesota, 55060) so, we can (finally) begin the step-by-step NICO-recommended procedure to replace a damaged Q45 oil pan.

I'll probably take hundreds of photos but annotate only a score (or so) in sequence in order for the next inevitable soul who has to follow our footsteps to have the benefit of both having the ANSWER TO OUR QUESTIONS & NOT MAKING OUR MISTAKES (whatever they may be).

One issue is how much weight the SPX/OTC 1722 & 1724 support bars hold.

Despite the 700 pound advertised strength, the label affixed to the two-bar 1722 support structure alarmingly says "500 pounds"; yet (reassuringly) the third steel bar (#1724 add on) comes with instructions that clearly say "700 pounds".

Correct me if I'm wrong (so the next poor soul can figure this out beforehand), but, I'm forced to guess that the baseline two-bar arrangement holds 500 pounds while the optional three-bar arrangement holds 200 more pounds.

Luckily, our engine is (barely) within (according to a prior post) those limits, so we should be safe recommending supporting the Q45 engine with these SPX / OTC engine support bars hooked onto the two VH45DE engine slingers.
911/Q45 wrote:It's probably worth 6 quarts of oil to do the test, then drain it out. You don't want to remove that crossmember twice!

DAEDALUS
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Oddly the one I bought, from the same source, is painted red. I like your finish much better!

Poor job of communicating the load limits there. My suspicion is that the 3rd bar itself does not have a 700 lb rating, but that the entire assembly, with all 3 bars, is rated to 700 lbs, with one point load on the crossbar and another point load on the perpendicular leg...and 3 points bearing the weight instead of 2.

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tangalora
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Oooops ... a (very) minor booboo. For the next guy who happens this way.

Those of you who are detail oriented may note that I didn't know enough to add the six-inch telephone cords provided with the SPX OTC engine support.

I didn't know what they were for (see photo below).

I just now realized the telephone cords are used to pad the two bottom legs of the triangular supports on each end of the main cross bar. Those of you following us, if you care about your inner-fender, you'll probably want to use that paint protection provided by SPX in the box containing the engine support bar.

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tangalora
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DAEDALUS wrote:... the entire assembly is rated to 700 lbs, with 3 points bearing the weight instead of 2 ...
Good postulation.

The next step to ponder is WHERE to put the third leg on the cowl?

So everyone benefits from this communication, how does the setup look below?There is so much plastic there, I wonder what's a good spot.

DAEDALUS
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Remove the plastic covers and you'll have a nice flat surface to place the foot on. You may have to angle the bar a bit to avoid hitting the hood. Odd again, the feet that came with my bar have plastic tubes on them to protect the paint. I'll have to look at that reciept again and make sure I got the right item! I just noticed there are other differences as well.

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ABSOLUTELY NOT A GOOD SPOT>Remove all the front plastic covers to find the front core support.

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tangalora
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DAEDALUS wrote:... Remove the plastic cowl covers to have a nice flat surface to place the third-leg foot on ...
Oh, Oh. Bad news. NICO Plan A (support the engine properly) is in danger.

I just talked to Frank at Scottsdale Infiniti to see why the hold up on the front engine slinger (10005-60U00), two 10mm 1.25 threads/mm bolts (08171-0221A) and associated washers (08915-3401A).

Dan ordered 'em allright. Problem is ... they won't come in. Not anytime soon.Nobody thought to mention that. 'Till now. Dang nab it.

To make our oilpan R&R matters a bit tougher, it seems the front-engine bracket is not only back ordered, but, it's got the dired designation, Frank said, "Oh-seven-ay'. (Apparently "07A" is some kind of perverse shorthand for 'we're screwed'. The ETA may be more than a few weeks. In fact, according to Frank, Nissan Motor Corp doesn't even stock 'em (they've only sold a teeny tiny batch of 'em in the last 14 years). So, there's no second source. Drat. They apparently make 'em to order.)

OK. Here's where we separate the nuts from the bolts.

Who on NICO has a good idea for "NICO Engine-Support Plan B"?

What I'm thinkin'bout is to head over to a hardware store to get me a coupla' 10mm x 1.25 threads/mm hardened steel bolts, 'bout 4 inches long. Then, maybe, 'jes maybe, I can hang a chain (or those braided steel cables they supplied with the engine-support bar) from the J-hook down to those bolts.

Anyone on NICO have a better idea for "NICO Engine Support Plan B"?

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tangalora
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Just back from my weekly lapidary class. On my way over, I stopped by the hardware store to pick up sets of 10mm x 1.25 x {25, 40, 80}mm bolts, plus assorted heavy-duty links, shackles, turnbuckles & mending plates.

The shackle is 2,000 pound test, the link is 1,418 pounds test, and the turnbuckles are each only 350 pounds test (see photo below).

What I'm thinking is to screw in a pair of bolts into the front engine slinger attachment bosses and sticking out enough to then attach either a chain or the braided wire to those bolts, using either the shackle or turnbuckle, perhaps secured with a pair of mending plates bolted side-to-side to prevent any chance of the chain or wire slipping off the bolt head or shackle.

Sound reasonable as NICO plan B?

An alternative would be to screw in the two bolts into the front engine slinger attachment point, then add an inch (or so) of washers, and then a steel plate. I could then attach the SPX/OTC J-hook to this makeshift U-shaped bracket.

Yet another alternative might simply be to bend a 10 mm diameter 1-foot rod into a J shape, tap one end with 10mm x 1.25 threads/mm threads, and then hook the braided wire to that J-rod (with the bend downward).

I'm sure I can come up with a host of other alternatives to this simple bracket. Any good wholesome ideas are welcome as we won't be the first to encounter this parts problem in the future.

DAEDALUS
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It's bad practice to have bolts sticking out of the block like that...techs are taught to never do that, though of course some do and probably most get away without any bad consequences.The poor bolts will have a combination of shear and bending stresses right on the threads, where the bolt is weakest. With the slinger as designed, the bolts mostly take shear, which they're very good at doing, and the slinger probably does a good job distributing the load across both bolts.

You didn't mention the grade of the hardware. Can't tell through the bag what markiings they have.

Using some conservative yet reasonable assumptions, I calculate over 100ksi stress on those bolts just from bending alone. I would recommend Plan C.

If you want, pay shipping both ways and you can borrow the slinger I have.

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tangalora
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DAEDALUS wrote:You didn't mention the grade of the hardware. I calculate over 100ksi stress on those bolts just from bending alone.
Good point. Below is my best guess calculation of the bolt strength:

Did I do the math right? The numbers seem too good to be true. Just one bolt, tightly torqued to the VH45DE head bosses, with a steel plate at 90 degrees could hold up more than 15 Q45 engines without hitting the yield strength.

However, I'm not sure if this calculation is in a line parallel to the threads, or perpendicular to the threads (see photo attached); so I repeat my calculations here for others to critique if necessary.

I'm given the three indications below:a) Local dealership mechanics do NOT use front engine slingersb) Scottsdale dealership mechanics do not use front engine slingersc) Scottsdale has sold less than half a handful in 14 years of businessMy interpretation is that that nearly EVERYONE is using some other method of VH45DE support.

Perhaps, if they simply bolt a steel plate onto the engine, I can too.

Assuming we attempt the suggested overhead support mode, it's a good idea, as you suggest, to THINK about the calculated stresses & then use parts vastly able to handle them. I don't have any formal training in engineering sheer, stress, torsion, tension, pressure, etc. (i.e., see http://www.esabna.com/EUWeb/OX...1.htm ), so, I need to rely on published enforced standards even more than you do. I knew nothing about bolt grade markings yesterday; but, they were simple to look up (GOOGLE: "Bolt Grade Marking"). (It's kinda' humbling; more than I could ever remember was found in that single web search.)

Since I could get squished if I get this math wrong (the true difference between mass and force ), I'll need to go slowly in the MKS system (using conversion charts at http://www.engnetglobal.com/ti...id=15):

Assuming:A) Maximum engine weight = 700 pounds = 318 kilogramsB) Apparently, 1 kilogram = 9.18 Newtons, so 318 kg ~= 3,000 NewtonsC) And given the nominal bolt diameter = 10 mm (so the radius is 5 mm)It appears:i) Cross-sectional area = pi x r^2 = 22/7 x 5^2 mm ~= 80 square mmii) That gives me a force per unit area (i.e., pressure) on one bolt of:iii) Newtons / square mm of bolt = 3,000 Newtons / 80 mm^2 ~= 40 N/mm^2

The metric bolts I purchased were marked 8,8, which (according to http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_2.htm ) have the break-point properties of: a) Tensile Strength === the stress level where the bolt breaks.b) Yield Strength === the stress level where the bolt bends.Where an 8,8 indicates:a) Tensile Strength = 8 x 100 = 800 Newtons/mm2 (116,000 psi)b) Yield Strength = 8 x 8 x 10 = 640 N/mm2 (93,000 pounds per square inch)

If my math is correct, the Q45 engine (700 pounds, 3,118 Newtons) if held up by a single 10 mm diameter bolted metal plate similar to an engine slinger, would only put a pressure of 40 newtons per square millimeter on the bolt (which, according to http://www.engnetglobal.com/ti...id=17, is about 6,000 pounds of force per square inch); while that bolt can hold more than fifteen times that pressure without yielding.

One problem with this calculation is that I'm not sure if I just calculated the stresses tearing the bolt apart perpendicular or parallel to the threads.

I'm assuming it's parallel (which is what a force from a thin steel plate similar to the engine slinger is where the engine support J-hook is attached would be).

Also, I'm not assuming any force multiplication (torque) due to a cantilevered arm.

If I assume the engine bolt is not attaching a steel plate, but is cantilevered with a chain slung around the head 80 mm from the attachment point, the force x distance equation becomes (how much greater)?

DAEDALUS
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The 6000 psi is uniaxial tension if the bolt were supporting the weight along its axis.

Bending stess = M*c/I. M is the moment about the point of failure. (Length of protrusion x force). c is the distance from centerline to failure (Radius of the bolt) and I is the moment of inertia. For a solid round dowel I = pi*D^4/64.

Bending stress is directly proportional to the attach distance--the farther from the block, the higher the stress.

In my calculation I assumed 250 lb load (1/2 the engine weight, momentarily applied to 1 fastener instead of 2). I assumed a protrusion of 35mm (5mm engagement). And, I assumed the bolt shank is *8mm* in diameter, instead of 10mm. **The threads are not solid like the shank is** This is where a bad assumption can throw you off because of the ^4 term in I value. I may have been too conservative here, but best to not test it unless you get the actual thread profile. Also, becaue of the shape of the thread, there is a stress concentration right at the point of highest bending. Also, I did not account for any jarring of the engine. This is a static calculation, but a bump or jarring can increase the weight of the engine for a moment.

I think I got 112ksi for stress, which is more than the 93ksi yield on those bolts.

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tangalora
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Thanks. I looked it up at a few more web sites and came to the same conclusion. In effect, that's the pressure per square inch that it would take to begin deforming the bolt if I were trying to hold two objects together.

But, I'm not trying to hold two objects together. I'm holding up an engine, most likely in a cantilevered configuration, where there is a bending force perpendicular to the bolt axis.

I just tried to screw in the 80mm 8,8 10mm x 1.25 bolt I bought and I learned three important facts that the next person (who reads this thread) won't make the same mistake on (so I note it here for their future benefit).

First off, 80mm is too long a bolt.An 80mm bolt won't fit without tearing the power-steering hose aluminium foil cover. I guess you could just about fit it, but, why bother. Don't use a bolt longer than 70mm and you should be fine.

Second, I was ill advised on the bolt thread pitch.It serves me right for not checking the dimensions (taking advice over the phone). The bolt threads are actually at a pitch of 1.5 (not 1.25) as previously stated.

Third, in hindsight, it's trivial to figure out where the front engine slinger unused boss and ground strap lie! The ground strap is visible, plain as day. Just follow it to the head. The un-used threaded boss is merely to the left of the half-inch long (about 10 threads) ground-strap bolt!

I can easily get my hands in there to screw in both bolts with a short 14mm socket wrench (see the photo below).

So, for the next person, just buy two 10.9 (136 k psi) or 12.9 (160 k psi) 10mm by 1.5 threads/mm bolts at least 15 mm long before you begin this job.

I'm running out to the store to get the parts now. If I can find a metal plate, I'll use that.Otherwise, I'll re-run your calculations to ensure that the bending moment won't be too great for the bolts and if not, I'll just hook the j-hooks to the bolt (via the shackles I picked up previously).

DAEDALUS
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When your life is on the line you should have a good factor of safety in the calcs. With some conservative assumptions I would hope your peak stress is 1/4 or less the bolt's capacity. In this case, 25-30ksi max. If the difference between life and death is the grade of the fastener, things are far too risky.

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tangalora
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DAEDALUS wrote:When your life is on the line you should have a good factor of safety in the calcs. I would hope peak stress is 1/4 or less the bolt's capacity. In this case, 25-30ksi max.
Excellent advice!I've been working on this for hours now.

I'm trying to independently verify the calculations above, but, even using the same numbers, I get different answers using independent equations (if the results from two sources match, then we have a better chance of being correct for the next mechanic or DIY inevitably supporting the engine).

When I run the calculations independently on the given bolt (see photo with ruler below), I seem to calculate a stress of 12 kpi instead of 75 kpi. Since I'm off by a factor of six, can we doublecheck my calculations (if you have time)?

I'll type them up right now and post them after this summary message.

P.S. I've realized that "kpi" is the correct designation (my previous use of "k psi" was my mistake).

DAEDALUS
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L = 1"D = .315"P = 250lbstressbend = Mc/I= (1 * 250) * (.315/2) / (pi * .315^4)64= 81.5ksi

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tangalora
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Like any good DIY mechanic, I'm trying to religiously follow the math here (so others can safely follow in our footsteps); and, likeany good scientist, I'm trying to independently verify the calculations.

But (using the SAME numbers for the VH45DE & attachment bolt)somehow I end up with a calculated stress on the attachment bolt which comes out DIFFERENT by a factor of six.

Assuming (as you did):- The engine weight is 500 pounds- The engine weight is held up in two places (250 pounds each)- The 250 pounds on the driver side acts on the bolt 1 inch from the end- The bolt is 10mm x 1.5 bolt of a grade of 8.8 (93 kpi yield strength)- The "effective" (non-thread) bolt diameter is ~8 mm (~0.315 inches)

And, given the formula for bending stress:M * c / I

Where: M = applied bending moment (force * length of protrusion) c = area of interest (distance from the centerline to the failure point) I = section modulus (solid cross section necessary to resist bending)

We can easily determine: M = 250 pounds * 1 inch c = 1/2 * 0.315 inch ~= 0.150 inch

The hard part (for me) is independently calculating the bolt section modulus..In your equation, I can see where the fourth root comes from, but, for the life of me, I can't figure out where the "64" comes from.

Luckily, the section modulus for a solid cylinder can independently be obtained at:http://www.srl.gatech.edu/educ....html which provides: d = effective diameter = .315 inch A = cross-sectional area = 0.08 square inch I = section moduli = 0.0031 inch^4

Plugging this new found section modulus into the bending stress equation: BendingStress = M * c / I BendingStress ~= (250 pounds * 1 inch) * (0.150 inch) / 0.0031 inch^4 BendingStress ~= 12,00 pounds per square inch (i.e., 12 kpi)

Doublechecking that calculated section modulus with that from Daedalus: I = pi * D^4 / 64. I ~= 22/7 * .315^4 / 64 I ~= 22/7 * .010 inch^4 / 64 I ~= 0.031 / 64 inch^4 I ~= 0.0005 inch^4

BendingStress = M * c / I BendingStress ~= (250 pounds * 1 inch) * (0.150 inch) / 0.0005 inch^4 BendingStress ~= 75,000 pounds per square inch (i.e., 75 kpi)

Hmmmm ... We're within the same order of magnitude, but, off by a factor of six.

This isn't merely a theoretical consideration, as, you can see from the photobelow ... we've created a makeshift front-engine slinger with 3000 poundtest chain bolted to the VH45DE heads.

In this case, my (perhaps erroneous) calculation puts a certain mechanic in the safety zone with an 8,8 grade 10mm bolt holding half a VH45DE engine; yet, an independent calculation (see above) puts that same DIY mechanic in a danger zone. I'm not an engineer, so, I suspect I'm wrong ... but where?

DAEDALUS
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Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:50 pm
Car: 1990 Infiniti Q45

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http://www.mcnallyinstitute.co...5.htm

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tangalora
Posts: 450
Joined: Sun Oct 12, 2003 8:51 pm
Car: 1990 Q45

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(Our last appends crossed as it takes me LOTS longer to annotate the photos so that everyone has a good visual to help them in the next job!).

Thanks for the pointer to the "64" in the denominator.For hours, I had poured over the calculus contained in the Georgia Tech online mechanical engineering class at http://www.srl.gatech.edu/education/ME3110/primer/

In doing so, I had tried to calculate the section moduli integrals, but, was unable to do so. Basically, I couldn't see where the "64" came from in the differential equations at: http://www.srl.gatech.edu/educ...mentsso, I looked for an independent verification. (When you're risking being squished, you tend to check twice.)

Since there are actually two bolts holding the front-engine-sling-chain, the stress on any one bolt is actually half what we calculated (1/2 * 80 kpi), so, both calculations apparently put us in the safety zone for an 8,8 grade 10mm x 1.5 x 35mm long bolt (40 ksi bending stress one inch cantilever vs 93 ksi yield strength for the bolt itself).

Future Infiniti mechanics can now perform this critical safety calculation knowing only THREE simple values:a) the weight being supported by the bolt (we assumed 250 pounds)b) the diameter of the bolt (we assumed 8 mm effective diameter)c) the length the bolt protrudes (we assumed 1 inch protrusion)Following this simplified equation:BendStress = w * L * c / 0.049 * d^4Where:w = supported weightL = length bolt horizontally protrudes from the enginec = radius of the bolt (assume this to be 1/2 of the minor diameter)d = "minor diameter" of the bolt (measured thread valley to valley)(See makeshift Q45 front-engine-slinger photo summary below).

Moving on (with my life) I tried to calculate deflection of the bolt under these stresses, but, came up with 2 inches as the deflection, so, I must have made a mistake in that calculation at http://www.srl.gatech.edu/educ...nding

Deflection under load:Simple cantilever beam, length l load W applied distance a from end:y = (-W/(6 * E * L)) * ((2 * L^3) - (3 * L^2 * a) + a^3)Where y = the deflection W = the load (250 pounds)E = Young's Modulus of elasticity (I assumed 30 million psi for steel)L = length of the bolt sticking out from the head (one inch)a = distance from the end the lifting force is applied (one inch)

When I solve for the actual deflection under load I get a value of "2".

The problem I have is with the UNITS of that "2".

I can't (for the life of me) figure out how those inches & inches^3 and inches^2 and divided psi all cancel out.

I think I'll just give up on the deflection calculation, since the bending stresses are 40 kpi per bolt which is lower than the 93 kpi listed as the yield strength ... so (if I understand this stuff correctly), there shouldn't be any bending of the bolt going on anyway. (???)


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