Project Stick: Redtop91's SR20DET Rebuild Thread

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
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gripstr
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redtop91 wrote:

rofl where is this from?


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otterman
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gripstr wrote:
rofl where is this from?
That's actually Redtop and I

idahotuner
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Napoleon dynamite

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otterman
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Ry, whos gonna do your valve shim work? I needs them sh!ts too.

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srdub-t
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mazworx has a shim service which is supposed to be some special way to were you dont have to re shim for like another 15K miles. But thats if you want to ship your head out.

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Hijacker
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You should only have to reshim if you change valves train components. Most notably valve replacements or valve spring changes.

I don't quite comprehend why you would be in a situation where you'd need to reshim your head within 15k miles of using the same compenents

codyace
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Hijacker wrote:You should only have to reshim if you change valves train components. Most notably valve replacements or valve spring changes.

I don't quite comprehend why you would be in a situation where you'd need to reshim your head within 15k miles of using the same compenents
A solid valvetrain is the only setup that would require reshim/readjustment....

codyace
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ZL-Auto wrote:
If you need help with your build give me a call.Thanks,Robert

469rwhp SR -Bored & Built - 3071R -
Did you turn the fuel pressure up to normal yet, so we can see the new numbers?

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Hijacker
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codyace wrote:A solid valvetrain is the only setup that would require reshim/readjustment....
Not according to the service manual. I just finished translating the S13 shimming section and compared it to the S14 section.
S14 Service Manual wrote:4)Determine proper shim size when replacing valve, cylnder head, shim, rocker arm guide, or valve seat.
The shims are designed to be the same height as the shallow section of the rocker arm guide (the shim with two tabs on top of it) The point of using the dial gauge is that you 0 it on top of the of the rocker guide and then compare it to the height of the other valve that the rocker would interract with. The measured distance (T) is the height of your shim (T1). The shims are supposed to be within .025mm plus/minus of the number you find on your dial gauge.

According to the service manual the shims are available in sizes ranging between 2.8mm to 3.2mm in .025mm increments. And according to Speed's all inclusive parts list he posted in the parts guide, that's correct. He has p/n's listed for every shim thickness available.

duffman1278
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btw hijacker, are you going to continue translating the japanese S13 Redtop FSM?

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Hijacker
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It's a slow slow slow process. I haven't actively studied, written, or spoken the language in 6 years. I'm hitting up what I consider to be hot spots first, primarily diagrams (which are easier for me as they use the easier, pheonetic alphabet and are only listings of parts), and I'm hitting other places that should be different between generations. Hence why I'm doing head procedures right now. I've gone through and done up a literal translation for shimming procedures, but now I'm trying to turn it into something that's understandable in english. I'll get there, it's just going to take a while. I hope to turn out a bunch of diagrams like what I did for the vacuum routing diagram. I think tonight after I get back from the garage, I'll spend some time piecing the water hose routing together.

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homeslicej2
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^you are the man! No wonder you're the RWD-SR mod.

codyace
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Hijacker wrote:Not according to the service manual. I just finished translating the S13 shimming section and compared it to the S14 section.
Haha, you're right, but to restate my point, you will need to reshim for solid valvetrains.

Solid being = Tomei or MattBackVass (F/A forum) or The Wolf's/Diesel Shop (F/A forum) or Jun. Ya know, when the guys take out the HLA's and replace them with the solid units (like a Bseries honda)

For everyone else: Shimming heads is never fun, but needs to be done. It solves alot of rattly noises and the sort on start up and low RPMs (it's easy to tell who's scattered valvetrain parts, and not reshimmed them hah)

http://www.customsteel.com/sr20 sells a slick little height tool. You can also make a homebrew style one, using the one writeup on Fresh Ally (I know, cross posting a forum, but it's still good information). Lstly, if you're even luckier, you can do it per FSM, but finding a shop with the nice Nissan valve measure plate stuff is rare at best, and buying one is uber pricey!

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redtop91
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Mazworx will reshim heads on the cheap. I'm lazy so that's the route I'll be going. Once I've paid for all my books for this semester they'll be an update guys.

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Hijacker
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codyace wrote:Haha, you're right, but to restate my point, you will need to reshim for solid valvetrains.
The point of shimming is to make the rocker sit flat across the valve pair. The height of the lifter/pivot has little bearing on that and doesn't even factor into the shimming process that Nissan laid out. While I have always said that you should reshim for solid lifters, I'm starting to question that method now. After reading the factory shimming method, it almost seems like a lesson in futility to reshim for solids.
codyace wrote:http://www.customsteel.com/sr20 sells a slick little height tool. You can also make a homebrew style one, using the one writeup on Fresh Ally (I know, cross posting a forum, but it's still good information). Lstly, if you're even luckier, you can do it per FSM, but finding a shop with the nice Nissan valve measure plate stuff is rare at best, and buying one is uber pricey!
The tool Nissan states you need is just a stand that screws onto a standard dial gauge and then the unit sits in the hole for the HLA. I didn't see any tools on the site you linked, and I am interested in the homemade thing you mentioned from FA. I wonder if it's along the same lines as what I was thinking of making with some spare, blown HLAs I have lying around.



Btw, I'm not meaning my comments as an attack. This is just a fun, healthy debate and I'm enjoying looking at the shimming methods from multiple points of view

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otterman
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redtop91 wrote:Mazworx will reshim heads on the cheap. I'm lazy so that's the route I'll be going. Once I've paid for all my books for this semester they'll be an update guys.
Get a student loan then blow it on your car. Short term gains ftw
codyace wrote:You can also make a homebrew style one, using the one writeup on Fresh Ally (I know, cross posting a forum, but it's still good information). Lstly, if you're even luckier, you can do it per FSM, but finding a shop with the nice Nissan valve measure plate stuff is rare at best, and buying one is uber pricey!
I read that article on FA about the homemade shim tool a while back. I'd be really cautious about using a homemade tool on shim work, being that it's so precise. But there's probably people more confident in their tool-making skillz then me haha.

I'll be sending my head to Mazworx. I was really surprised at how low the price quote was for shim work.

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srdub-t
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how much did mark quote you guys?

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redtop91
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I forget the exact quote he gave otterman but I remember it being dirt cheap.

danielekfuj
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you fail for not posting more pics.

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redtop91
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Fail for being in the RWD SR forum and not owning either an SR or even a 240.

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sbird1
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BURN!

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S3t0_S13
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SHAZAM

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s13_silvia_redtop
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hey hows the car going?

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redtop91
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LOL. It's not right now. I'm penniless and it's freakin cold! They'll be at least a teardown update once it warms up a bit.

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S3t0_S13
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eat yo protein foodem chicken wings deep friend oughta keep u runnin in teh snow

idahotuner
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redtop91 wrote:LOL. It's not right now. I'm penniless and it's freakin cold!
thisis how it is for most people and their builds right now. just slowing down due to lack of funds and crappy weather.

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otterman
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Know what I did today Ryon? I pulled my motor and removed my head.

I've done more progress in one day then you have since the start of this thread. GET ON IT.

Haha let me know if you need help whenever/ifever you decide to do finish pulling it and taking it apart.

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Hijacker
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idahotuner wrote:thisis how it is for most people and their builds right now. just slowing down due to lack of funds and crappy weather.
Don't forget waiting on parts. I've been waiting on bearings since before New Years.

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Asmar
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Very nice.

codyace
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Hijacker wrote:
Don't forget waiting on parts. I've been waiting on bearings since before New Years.
OEM bearing wait owns joooo


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