Project PSU blue, running in the 90's!

[Razi]

Make sure to keep your shims centered properly on that Altima upgrade, or your rotors will sound like some kind of lathe haha.
Is that BMC stopper made by circuit sport? I sort of want one.

Can't wait to see your wheels installed.

[Didderson]

Yes its made by circuit sports . I had to use a dohc ps reservior instead of my modded soch one so i had access to those bolt holes it uses.

I need to upload a photo because the caliper slides must be a bit longer on the turbo z31's. But its the same part number so i have no idea why my pads overhang the rotor by ~1.5mm. i did everything according to your thread razi. Its really a sweet upgrade tho. With hawk pads its awesome responsee

I removed all pad shims in favor of pedal feel. Still greased them well tho. Sounds good so far.

[Razi]

Awesome!
e-brake locks are easier now.

[Didderson]

Lol I wouldn't know how. I'll admit I'm not a drifter for sure. I try sometimes in the rain haha and its fun when i get the chance but I don't know how to initiate :P.

Side note I think I installed my PBM rucas on the wrong sides. The way they are bent seems like I would get more clearance if i switched em. I will refer to zilvia for info.

Here's my bit of pad overhang. Also Stupid hawk pads had to be ground down to fit. They're different than stock geometry with some nub up there and I had to grind it off so the pad would seat the caliper. The rear did not need the nub cut off.

[Razi]

Yeah I can't drift to save my life either. :P

That is an odd amount of overhang though..
Mine was pretty darn flush.

[Didderson]

Yeah I remember. I should double check my rotor diameter, but it shouldn't be different. I've heard of others having this problem too. If I get a hold of more z31 caliper slides I'll test them out. My original s13 pads had the same problem, so it's not the pads.
I put them wheelers on today :P. Local shop (tire consultants in ephrata for the locals) stretched em nicely. Fast service and bangin prices!
The wood prestretch probably helped a bit, but wasn't necessary imo.



I'm not happy with my alignment now haha... It was fine with 16's, but it is time to lower the car and fit these wheels. Now if only rotaface would manufacture some 17x8.5 +20mm's so I can order a front pair... gunmetal finish of course.
Maybe I will take pics tonight under light, maybe not.

[Didderson]

Vid of me driving around bedding in the brakes. I forgot the camera was even on, it is activated by 60+db of sound. One of these days I will make higher throttle vids lol, but the rear tire screech is fun.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yahBiysVRoc[/youtube]

[Didderson]

Derpa Derpppppppp.

I will work on fitting these wheels hopefully this weekend.
If you work for Rota you had better get crackin' and make some more RBR's because it looks so good I want a front set! I already has tires!




Lol that dent is rough. Keeps thieves away. But I did tell my gf that I would put in work and fix it when I installed the fender braces. As soon as jonny makes em...

Tires feel very nice. They need some break in miles before I can give them a review. But the setup is definitely more comfy than the small 16's. Very NiCEEE

Probably a lowering party on saturday. I'm scared for the front. Maybe just the rear lol.

[OutToWinPAHC]

I wish I had open roads

[Didderson]

You're right man I forgot how good I have it when I want to get away from traffic. I should take the back roads more often
Philly must be horrible. Driving this car or any modded 240 in traffic will make anyone feel like a caged animal at times.

[mrgreeneyes]

your 17's should help with that rear biasing issue. but z31 MC ftw with q45 front/ big rotor rear.

MOAR LOWARZ

[Didderson]

Vids halp moar.
I need low haha!
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcVp_bQl99w[/youtube]
Yes keegan the new tires out back helpedd. Oh and the rear right tire was the one squeaking in that video becauseeeeeeeeeee, it had more negative camber. I fixed it some already

They are definitely as quiet as all the reviews on discounttiredirect say they are! I can hear my drivetrain even more, not that I couldn't with solid frame bushings..

I have this baby popping sound that happens when I put torque on the wheel from 0mph. Whether that torque be reverse or forward, a little pop happens and I don't know what it is. But I am leaning towards the riser bushings need epoxied more or tightened on the rear right side.
But it could be a dying wheel bearing. I'm not sure. Anyone have ideas? SEE below:
EDIT: The noise was caused by my cheap rear upper control arm not bolted in securely at the subframe. I guess it loosened over time. I should get body washers to help keep the new RUCAs centered in the future.

[Razi]

If it was your wheel bearings, you'd hear a pretty bad whining noise from that wheel.
Other than that, I'm not sure.

I'd go with tightening the subframe risers and seeing if that fixes anything.

Btw, is the whine from the diff annoyingly louder after you put in the solid subframe bushings?
I sort of want to replace my bushings with those, but I'm reading that you can hear some loud whines in the diff as you drive on the highway.

[Didderson]

I think it's the risers or the scissor jack frame area too. I've heard wheel bearings before and this isn't it.

You get a wonderful symphony when you really go full throttle because of the stress the gears and trans go through, but I wouldn't say you get a huge whine on the highway. Let me get back to you in a few days I haven't highway driven it home to lanc yet.
You will also be able to hear pinion/ring gear backlash if you have any. Which you should have some but not tons.

[Didderson]

I smashed the inner fenders flush yesterday and did the dirtay deed.

Picture(s) of the day
Pic of me lowering the car. Coils did great without anti-seize on them for a year and a half. Cleaned the threads and applied anti seize just in case before lowering.

Doing toe with the string.

It seems that clicking noise I complained about (Razi) is gone. It was probably the rear right toe rod ball joint. Just needed moved or lubed.


After all the tire and wheel calculations, came out very nice, pretty perfect for what I wanted it to look like. I can go lower if I roll the fenders a bit more, but self alignments take awhile. When I put the front 17's on and re align the front I might redo the rear, but probably not haha.

[Magnum375 Jr.]

Looks freakin amazing and no crazy camber, just in time for autox next weekend I'm bringing the camera mount btw.

[Razi]

I think it's the risers or the scissor jack frame area too. I've heard wheel bearings before and this isn't it.

You get a wonderful symphony when you really go full throttle because of the stress the gears and trans go through, but I wouldn't say you get a huge whine on the highway. Let me get back to you in a few days I haven't highway driven it home to lanc yet.
You will also be able to hear pinion/ring gear backlash if you have any. Which you should have some but not tons.

Doesn't sound that bad...
Hmm I might buy some. haha.

It seems that clicking noise I complained about (Razi) is gone. It was probably the rear right toe rod ball joint. Just needed moved or lubed.

Glad to hear.
And that black coating seems to be holding up well!
That's good because my Fortune Auto coilovers came with them and I wasn't sure how good they were.
Looks good man!

[Didderson]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYdevoUo3Dw[/youtube]

[Future_gohan]

How did you align the tow with the string accurately?

[mrgreeneyes]

How did you align the tow with the string accurately?

you don't. make friends with a local alignment shop mechanic

[Didderson]

First of all, make sure your car is on a level surface.
Make sure you put one or two blocks of wood under each tire. This helps you get underneath to adjust the arms, and allows the tires to twist and actually move when you adjust toe, making your adjustments more accurate. This is something they don't do at alignment racks, but they measure from the rim too so a twisted tire might not affect it as much.

In general, you need to have the string on jackstands 3ft from the front and rear of the car. MAKE SURE the string is passing the center of the hubs for the wheels in the same plane, you know like the string is level with the exact wheel centers.
Use 1 string for each side. Go get your grandma's cotton wound thread for stitching because it'll be very skinny (mine was about .5mm diameter). This will ensure a good reading from your ruler. I'd suggest not using a thick twine or rope lol.

***Do camber first, then toe.***

CAMBER

For camber just get a nice straight level, and digital calipers from harbor freight. Have a camber goal in mind (say 2.5 degrees) and set the caliper to this value. For example: If I want 2.5 degrees and I have about an 18" measuring surface from lip to lip, use this formula:

~450mm is 18inches of measuring surface, also known as the adjacent side of the right angle triangle trig for camber. 2.5* is the degree of camber desired.
We know SOHCAHTOA from high school, use the tangent (angle) function to get your opposite side triangle value. aka: tan(camber angle) = opposite(caliper length) / adjacent(length of wheel diameter).

Solving for O we get 19.647mm. My answer is in mm so I set my digital caliper to 19.647 and camber the wheel until the setup is perfectly level.

Imagine the 2 red lines where I moved the calipers is set to 19.65mm and you butt the caliper up to the wheels and level where the red lines are.
The bottom of the level should contact the lower lip. +1 for stretched tires making it SUPER easy to measure alignments!
The orange line I drew is for the orange ruler during toe measurement time which is done separately from camber obviously.


TOE

For the front:
Space the string 10mm away from the center of the hub or center of the wheel, have it level with the center of the rim
For the rear:
Space the string away from the car 12.5mm away from the center of hub/wheel (make sure it's the exact same center you measured from the front wheel).
This staggered spacing accounts for the rear wheelbase being .2inches smaller in the rear.

Now you have two strings completely parallel down your car, adjust toe so they're all the same.

To adjust toe, take measurements from the lip of your rim to the string in the front and rear of the wheel. Adjust the toe until both these measurements are equal distance to get 0 toe.

It helps to have a plastic see through metric ruler when measuring on the string as you can get a better reading by looking through the ruler to see where the string lands.

As far as accuracy goes, given you have about an 18" measuring length for your angle if you have a 17" rim, if you happen to mess up and be off by 1mm (.5mm on each lip to string measurement), you'd only be off by 0.127 degrees.

Tell me that isn't accurate. How laser precise do u wanna be? Do you have a Nascar race budget? :P If you're having to locate the tire with custom rear traction arms make sure they are absolutely the same length before installing, or else this method will not help you. My rear trac arms are oem.

Take your time, it takes awhile to do it well and re measure after making adjustments. Remember, do camber first because it changes toe, and I suggest doing the rear wheels simultaneously, then the fronts or vice versa.

Hope that covers it all!

[Razi]

My mind = blown.

[hbpignosePA]

tom's brilliance can only be overshadowed by his passion for not spending money gotta love his budget alignments.


the car looks dope man, but seriously u should get some s14 seats.... mainly mine

ill make u a good deal

[Didderson]

hahahah Josh thanks. It's not hard. I will ease the pain with a video on this in the future.
Idk my back is happy with s13 seats atm. But if you had pathfinder seats, hardbody bench seat killed my arse and back driving to state college last weekend!

Bed b4 work. l8r yall.

[idahotuner]

looking good man. i am still trying to get stuff aligned on my car

[solowsr240]

coming along nicely!!

[White Comet]

just got done catching up on this thread, and I gotta say I didn't realize how much i missed. Theres been a lot going on with this car that i didnt realize. very impressive, I like it

Jeffs car (WC) still doesnt run, havin a baybay soon and he has a huge gmc truck now, lol got a cam for the v8.

yep its true i have a 2 week old daughter on top of 6 work days a week so i'm spread thin. I did get a chuckle out of my 1/2 ton truck being called huge lol

[Razi]

WC!!!!!!
How far are you from getting your car started?

[White Comet]

well whats left to do isnt much big stuff, just more small stuff then whats easy to tackle. I def have the itch to work on it again but i literally cant til my daughter starts at least sleeping through the night. i did get the 240 into a 12x24' shed with 2 lofts and electricity getting put in on saturday. We'll see how the next few weeks go. sorry for jacking the thread tom

[Razi]

Yay!
Also, congrats on the baby!

Okay, Didderson, thread jack over.