project 200sx hatch

[hbpignosePA]

alright time for some updates.

i figured out all my last minute wiring problems.

my stupid nub a** had the hazard plug backwards so now it works. headlight motor was dead which caused it to wink constantly.

should have it fired up this weekend, and make sure its running up to par.

still gotta wait a few weeks for money for a driveshaft and then scheduling the exhaust shop/ inspection and getting all the paperwork ready, with classes just starting im broke as usual



ooo hai its alive



at least its vital signs.

ok

now i got the trans mount just about finished; i need to notch the holes bigger and then im going to run some exstended nuts; and cut them to be flush with the plate. then ill have my friend weld some plates to it sits flush with the plate and doesnt move.

honestly i dont even think i need to bolt them down. considering there is no clearance for it to move up/down to move the whole trans.

pics

[IMG]http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w92/ ... CN0655.jpg][/IMG]

here you can see where my drill kept slipping' as its a piece of s*** and this is really thick aluminum. o well function over form right?



i only have one concern and that is that the trans is facing too far up, since the mount is pretty far up the tunnel.

any thoughts? i mean the plate is milimeters below where it comes into the cabin? with a one piece, it SHOULD line up fine; but it does worry me a bit.

finally i started fabbing up the rad mount.

the lower mount is in, i took a 90 degree bent piece of metal to make a cradle for the KA rad to sit it (the stock holes were too far apart for the little plastic nobs to be incerted.) i cut those nobs off so the rad sits flush with the top of the upper rad support

now all i have to do is make tabs that slide over those stock rubber things and bolt them to the upper rad support.

[Didderson]

Your trans mount looks to be at a fine angle but I can't tell because you didn't take a pic of where the diff sits. Try to bolt it down fully to avoid twisting. You might need to make countersink holes for the original mount studs to fit through or replace them like you said.

Lookin' good, git er done!

[Dattebayo]

How did the shifter line up? Can you take a pic from inside please?

[hbpignosePA]

i had to cut the trans tunnel.... just like most guys that do a KA or SR in an s12

i had an auto; and the stock CA 5spds are weaksause anyways

ill snap a pic when i work on it tmw; w classes and work today im not bothering getting started w anything

[Dizel01]

Holy shnikes! Your almost done with this! Let me know if you need a hand since im jobless again.

[hbpignosePA]

cool yo

sunday or monday if u wanna stop by just text me first and ill let you know what im upto.

im toying asking what the yard wants for the rear end off that car; before i buy a driveshaft cuz i can have a long nose r200; which means actual choices for LSD

and plus if i want to do bushings i can , without it being out of commission for any more than a weekend

[Biz'SR.BT1GHT]

Nice,Dude I like the Silver and BlackI am thinking of paint my S13 those colors

Keep up the GOOD WORK!!

[J14cm7]

I'd build up the suspension in an S12 before putting that much speed in it (like your SR...). S12 stock suspension is really dumpy and scary without modification.

I think a lot of people don't realize it has semi-trailing arm rears; early models have a solid live axle. That's not even as good as the Z31 300ZX.

Suspension? who needs suspension as long as it goes fast? Thats a joke. Yea seems like a pretty sweet build although why is it when i type 200sx into ebay or craigslist all i get are 98 altimas? I have been doing some research and havent been able to come up with any answers. From what i have read the 200sx only went from 1984-88.

[hbpignosePA]

their not altimas

they are b14 sentras

thats how they were marketed in the states.

as the nissan 200sx it is basically the sentra chassis w the fwd SR20de

you didnt search hard enough. also euro spec s13s are referreed to as 200sx's

the s12 is almost forgotten car in nissan's lineup; with the exception of the SE's w the VG motor they didnt have good choices for stock engines in the states.

i see 4 times more s12s in junkyards than i do on the road (i saw ONE driving around since i bought this)

[J14cm7]

Well that clears it up thanks for the info. Not a fan of front wheel drive cars whether they be nissans or not. So dont really care about their history.

[Dattebayo]

im toying asking what the yard wants for the rear end off that car; before i buy a driveshaft cuz i can have a long nose r200; which means actual choices for LSD

It's not that easy. You have to have 88 shiro Z31 axles or a custom setup to make it work. Here's a link: http://www.88hybrid.com/forum/...0c1b2

The VG30E diffs are closer to a J30 ratio, so be wary of that.

[hbpignosePA]

thanks for the link datto

but there is next to nothing for the R180 that doesnt involve serious machine work/ or alot of money.

you can get the pricey discontinued nismo stuff, or the subaru variant; but then you need custom axles.

most Z guys switch out to an R200 as well for better gearing etc.

i wasnt planning on going VLSD anyways, i would go clutch type LSD; using the stock 85ish 300zx turbo diff; and NA axles which have the same spline count.

[breadbox]

I like how the dash tears down so easy.

I know of 2 driving S12's. One is a NICO member but I don't think he gets on here much. He has a mint red S12 that some drunk lady left in someones yard at the beach. Last I heard its VG blew a HG and he was considering a Frontier swap.

[Dattebayo]

i would go clutch type LSD; using the stock 85ish 300zx turbo diff; and NA axles which have the same spline count.

It won't work! You need to do the stuff on the link still because of the length of the part that goes into the diffy.

[hbpignosePA]

? how so?

even if you need z31 n/a axles it would still be bolt in; seeing as they share the same rear suspension.

and you shouldnt even need those; if the s12 has the same spline count as the z31 clsd it should slide right in. the viscous diffs are the ones with different length output shafts.

unless your just not explaining it that i am understanding it.

that write up is for the VLSD option off the z31s im talking about the clutch type of the turbo versions.

[Dattebayo]

This should explain what I mean.

[hbpignosePA]

ok..... and provided the spline count is the same as the SE diff (which it should be a 29 spline count)

you should be able to use stock axles.

unless the one with the part number is the s12 axle and its that much longer.

i know that the j30 ones are not relavant, as there are no outputshafts on longnose diffs i dont believe; they have clip in axles where the axle has the splined portion with no flange to separate where it bolts directly to the diff case.

[Dattebayo]

Just trust me, you cannot use the S12 stock one.

[hbpignosePA]

even so; you can get an r200 longnose from a z31 then;

the biggest reason i want to switch it now is im getting a one piece driveshaft.

no sense in getting one for an R180 and then getting another one later

[Dattebayo]

It sure beats changing the driveshaft bearing, having a one-piece. I would rather have a CLSD from a turbo Z any day, it's actually serviceable and you can add more clutches for bigger breakaway torque. I know I would go at least one more over the stock amount.

The first option on that link is what I will do if I ever get a round tuit.

[hbpignosePA]

alright:

im scratching the r200 idea for now

i have far too much time/money into this and im sick of it not being done

so

tommorow should be the day i fire it

yay!

here she is waiting to be fired up.



got the radiator in everything is ready to go. used the S13 main power wire for the starter since as many have seen mine was a POS and broke apart.



discovered that the stock SE s12 power steering resevior would fit alot nicer than the KAE did w only half the bolts. n crappy lean

lines up perfectly.



the drivers side of the bay actually looks suprisingly stock/factory



alot of guys complain the heater hoses dont line up right; i seemed to have no trouble.



OK NICO!

few quick things im not sure if i need etc.



these are various vaccuum ports and whatnot.

can i just cap them off?

and this one is real hard to see but im guessing that this is the butterfly valve; which now doesnt attach to anything(where my hand is, under the FPR)



two thoughts i have; can i use a T spit and just connect it to the FPR vaccuum? i mean i dont think it even is going to do anything, since the EGR isnt hooked up at all.

the blockoffplate for the EGR is on, but i put the whole assembly back in for the "look" for inspection etc.

or should i connect that vaccuum to the EGR even though its blocked?

thanks for takin the time yall

[Didderson]

Oh boy I haven't seen SOHC ka's for that long on either 240 i'v owned haha, but those are all random vacuum ports (egr and EVAP) you can plug up.

About the swirl, I think there's an electric actuator for it to function and receive vacuum when its needed, and because you don't have that, I am confused. Sounds like you should be ok running vac to it all the time though, the butterflies just won't close at idle

Leave the egr in place and maybe run some fake vacuum lines under the manifold into the abyss. Thats what I did when I had inspection mechanics who cared lol, and I passed just fine. Cars that old it's only a visual and probably not even that for your 80's chassis.

Safe to assume the plastic vacuum bung is for evap can also, prob a signal but these are guesses pplz!

Be careful of the vacuum nipple on top of your throttle body because it looks as if that's the one that feeds from the EVAP canister when throttle is depressed, so it only sees vacuum when throttle is opened, which would not be a good FPR vacuum signal, but I assume your FPR is hooked up to some other vacuum port thats actually inside the mani itself . The way you check is by pulling the intake hose off and checking for a little hole that sits right before the throttle plate (which paths air to the nipple above), that is the evap intake. Use it for nos lawl.

I hope it goes well man! I'll prob edit this you know me!

Modified by Didderson at 6:23 PM 1/26/2010
Modified by Didderson at 11:24 PM 1/26/2010

[Magnum375 Jr.]

Josh, I dont know much about the KA, or those vacuum ports, but permanently cap them off until you start it up and make sure it idles right. Find a way to plug them up for the moment...maybe put vacuum line with sealant in the end so that way you dont clog up the ports.

[mrgreeneyes]

cap the intake one. cap the one coming off the intake mani.

the SCV aka butterflies are FINE actuated only by vacuum at all times. thats how my KADE is setup and i LOVE it this way vs vac via solenoid control. the power is more linear.

but

dont bother tapping that to a vac source. they "rest" in open position, and its FINE like that. just leave it alone, uncapped and not tapped into anything.

best of luck on the fire up.

dont let toms jargon confuse you lol...

text me if you have problems

[Didderson]

Thanks for clearing up the swirl valve sh!te keegan I know you've had success with that. I shouldn't have tried. I'm used to removing things

[hbpignosePA]

thanks ya'll

i have a couple classes this morning, and then work later but i still should be able to at least test it out.

if it fires expect start up vids.

and LOL at toms techy babble, that def confused me a bit, keegan talks to us like the nubs we are.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Are you removing the butterfly valves?

[hbpignosePA]

um i guess not?

i never did/didnt think about it and am not really looking to pull off the intake to get to it, eventually i may, but i still have one year i have to inspect it, so the more stock it looks the better.

[The240seller]

great build, looks like the paint scheme came out good. Hope she fires up alright.

[mod_mastaz]

You should post on C-s12. You also don't need a custom driveshaft. Just run the S13 front half mated to your S12 rear half. It'll all bolt up and work just fine.

As for your LSD, use your R200 longnose and swap in an S13 LSD center(meant for an OPEN diff case) and you'll have an LSD. Dattebayo wanted you to swap the Z31 CLSD in with matching axles, which are is harder and unnecessary.

If you run the R200 long nose, make sure you have the right matching rear s12 driveshaft, whether it be the S12 turbo or S12 VG rear half. GL with the car!

OH and if you need help with any suspension or S12 related stuff, just hit me up! I'm also on C-S12 so you can also contact me there.