• Owner's manuals:
  • 1991, 1993-2013 Pathfinders
  • 1997 - 2003 QX4
• Factory service manuals:
  • 1994 - 2010 Pathfinders
  • 1997 - 2003 QX4
  To save a copy of the FSM, right click -> Save As on every PDF, save them into a single folder, then use fwd.pdf to navigate.

• WD21: 1987 - 1995
• R50: 1996 - 2004
• JR50 (QX4): 1997 - 2003
• R51: 2005 - 2012
• ???: 2013 - ...

• Engine oil
  • Drain & refill, with oil filter: 5.25 quarts
  • Drain & refill, without oil filter: 5.07 quarts
  • Dry engine (engine overhaul): 7.25 quarts
• Cooling system (including reservoir): 9.75 quarts (2.4375 gallons)
  Reservoir capacity is 5/8ths of a quart (~0.634 quarts).
• Manual transmission gear oil
  Use API GL-4 fluid only or risk damaging brass synchros! Scroll down for an explanation under the "Transmission and driveline" Q&A section. Redline MT-90 and Amsoil MTG are excellent choices.
  • 2WD: 2.96 quarts
  • 4WD: 5.39 quarts
• Transfer fluid:
  • Part-time 4WD model: 2.32 quarts
    Use Nissan Matic D or equivalent Dexron III/Mercon, or GL-4 gear oil. ATF is used in the factory. Do not mix ATF and gear oil in the transfer case.
  • All-mode 4WD model: 3.17 quarts
    Use Nissan Matic D or equivalent Dexron III/Mercon. ATF is used in the factory.
• Front differential: 1.95 quarts
  Use GL-5 fluid, preferably 80W-90. 75W-90 is usable as well; scroll down for more details under the "Transmission and driveline" Q&A section.

• Engine oil
  • Drain & refill, with oil filter: 3.91 quarts
  • Drain & refill, without oil filter: 3.60 quarts
• Cooling system (including reservoir): 11.25 quarts (2.8125 gallons)
  Reservoir capacity is 1.25 quarts.
• Manual transmission gear oil
  Use API GL-4 fluid only or risk damaging brass synchros! Scroll down for an explanation under the "Transmission and driveline" Q&A section. Redline MT-90 and Amsoil MTG are excellent choices.
  • 2WD: 2.54 quarts
  • 4WD: 5.39 quarts
• Transfer fluid: 2.32 quarts
  Use Nissan Matic D or equivalent Dexron III/Mercon, or GL-4 gear oil. ATF is used in the factory. Do not mix ATF and gear oil in the transfer case.
• Front differential: 2.17 quarts
  Use GL-5 fluid, preferably 80W-90. 75W-90 is usable as well; scroll down for more details under the "Transmission and driveline" Q&A section.

• Automatic transmission fluid:
  Use Nissan Matic D or equivalent Dexron III/Mercon fluid.
  • Dry fill: 9 quarts
  • Approximate drain and fill amount: 4 quarts
• Rear differential: 2.96 quarts
  Use GL-5 fluid, preferably 80W-90. 75W-90 is usable as well; scroll down for more details under the "Transmission and driveline" Q&A section.
• Power steering fluid: 0.95 quarts
  Use synthetic ATF for better cold-weather performance and lower operating temperatures; scroll down for more details under the "Other components or issues" Q&A section.
• Brake and clutch fluid: however much you need to flush the lines until clear fluid comes out of the bleeders.
  Brake bleeding order can be found under the "Brakes" Q&A section, or in BR section of FSM under "Bleeding Brake System" subheading under "CHECK AND ADJUSTMENT" (1996-1997 FSMs) or "ON-VEHICLE SERVICE" (1998-2004 FSMs).
  Use DOT3, DOT4, or DOT5.1. All three are ethylene glycol based and are interchangeable; DOT4 and DOT5.1 have higher minimum wet and dry boiling points. Do not use DOT5 fluid as it is silicone based and is not miscible with the other DOT fluids. Scroll down for more details under the "Brakes" Q&A section.
• Propeller shaft grease: NLGI No. 2 lithium soap base
  1996-2001.5 models specify grease containing molybdenum disulphide.
  Grease fittings:
  
  These are the only grease fittings on the vehicle from the factory. Do note that 4WD models only have a grease fitting on the front propeller shaft. Aftermarket suspension components may have grease fittings.
• Multi-purpose grease: NLGI No. 2 lithium soap base

• Engine oil drain plug: 22 - 29 ft-lbs
• Transmission drain plug: 22 - 29 ft-lbs
• Rear differential fill and drain plugs: 43 - 87 ft-lbs
• Front differential fill and drain plugs (VG33E-equipped R50s): 43 - 87 ft-lbs
• Front differential fill plug (VQ35DE-equipped R50s): 29 - 43 ft-lbs
• Front differential drain plug (VQ35DE-equipped R50s): 43 - 72 ft-lbs
• Manual transmission fill and drain plugs: 18 - 25 ft-lbs
• Transfer case:
  • Part time transfer case & VG33E-equipped R50s:
    Fill and drain plugs: 18 - 25 ft-lbs
  • Full time transfer case (only available on VQ35DE-equipped R50s):
    Fill and drain plugs: 87 - 174 in-lbs
• Spark plugs: 14 - 22 ft-lbs
• Ignition coil packs (VQ35DE only): 75 - 95 in-lbs
• Wheel lug nuts: 87 - 108 ft-lbs
• Fuel line hose clamps: 8.7 - 13.0 in-lbs

• Recalls:
  • 1996-2004 Pathfinder/QX4 Strut Housing Corrosion Recall READ IF YOU HAVEN'T YET! Applies to all R50s!
    NTB11-064a - VOLUNTARY SAFETY RECALL CAMPAIGN 1996-2004 PATHFINDER IN SALT STATES LEFT FRONT STRUT HOUSING CORROSION
  • NTB07-078 - VOLUNTARY RECALL CAMPAIGN 1997 – 2001 PATHFINDER FUEL FILLER TUBE
  • ITB00-066 - VOLUNTARY SAFETY RECALL CAMPAIGN - 2000-01 QX4 IGNITION KEY LOCK CYLINDER
  • NTB96-025a - VOLUNTARY RECALL CAMPAIGN 1996 PATHFINDER - BRAKE PEDAL CLEARANCE FROM THE TRANSMISSION TUNNEL
  • NTB96-081 - VOLUNTARY RECALL CAMPAIGN 1996 PATHFINDER STEERING TRANSFER GEAR REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
  • NTB96-090 - VOLUNTARY RECALL CAMPAIGN 1996 PATHFINDER FUEL PUMP HOSE
• TSBs:
  • NTB01-057 - REVISED MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES
  • NTB04-018 - RADIATOR CAP INSPECTION DURING COOLANT SYSTEM SERVICE
  • NTB01-055a - 2001 PATHFINDER AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 1-2 OR 2-3 SHIFT FLARE Scroll down for more detail under the "Transmission and driveline" Q&A section.
  • NTB99-071b - NISSAN BLOWER MOTOR NOISE - COVER INSTALLATION (see associated thread)
  • NTB00-056b - 1988 AND LATER NISSAN VEHICLES AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER CLEANING

• Q: How do I determine whether I have a 2001.0 or 2001.5 model year Pathfinder?
  A: Check the manufacturing date of your Pathfinder on the driver door jamb. Dates 01/01/2000-08/31/2000 are 2001.0 model years; 09/01/2000-06/03/2001 are 2001.5 model years.
• Q: What's the difference between 2001.0 and 2001.5 model year Pathfinders?
  A: 2001.5 Pathfinders have revised spark plug coil packs to correct failures which plagued 2001.0 MY Pathfinders. Other than that, there is a newer smart entrance control unit in the latter half of the production of 2001.5 Pathfinders. If you're having a P1320 (ignition signal) engine code and have a 2001.0 Pathfinder, scroll down to the "Engine" section - there is a Q&A regarding possible fixes.
• Q: What's my paint code?
  A: There are two places to find your vehicle's paint code. The first place is the label on the driver door jamb. On the sticker, it is the 3 character code near the bottom of the label. In the following example, the paint code is EW3:
  
  
  
  The second place to find your vehicle's paint code is on the placard located in the engine compartment on the firewall.
  
  
• Q: Can I run 87 octane (regular) gasoline in my VQ35DE equipped Pathfinder?
  A: Yes, but you will experience reduced performance. In my opinion, the performance difference is quite noticeable, and the few dollars difference per fill-up between regular and premium (91 or higher) octane gasoline is well worth the difference. Using 91 or higher octane also may result in slightly higher fuel economy; see this thread.
  
  If you have a VG33E equipped R50, do not use anything other than 87 octane (regular) gasoline; this may result in reduced performance and/or fuel economy, as higher octane fuel is more difficult to ignite and the engine cannot advance timing to take advantage of the higher octane because it was designed to run on regular (87 octane) gas.
  
  You can read more about octane here.
• Q: Why should I use the parking brake?
  A: You should use the parking brake when parking your Pathfinder or QX4 (or any vehicle, really), even on a flat surface, in order to have the vehicle's weight rest not on the transmission's parking pawl, but on the wheels. Here is the procedure I use to park my automatic Pathfinder:
  
  1. Come to a complete stop.
  2. Engage the parking brake.
  3. Select N (neutral).
  4. Let off the foot brake.
  5. Wait for the vehicle to completely settle and stop any movement.
  6. Move the shifter into P.
  
  Have you ever tried to shift out of P, but encountered resistance? This procedure will completely eliminate that resistance. The resistance is caused by the parking pawl not being completely centered. If you do not use the parking brake on a steep hill, you may encounter a significant amount of trouble attempting to shift out of P because there is so much strain on the parking pawl. Also, in the unfortunate event of someone colliding with your vehicle in a parking lot, there is less chance of the parking pawl breaking and the vehicle rolling.

• Q: I have a VQ35DE-equipped Pathfinder or QX4. I'm getting a P0100 code ( MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR (MAFS) ).
  A: You can attempt to clean the MAF sensor using MAF sensor cleaner and inspect the wiring. There is also a diagnostic in the EC section of the factory service manual under "DTC P0100 MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR (MAFS)". If you need to replace the MAF sensor, you can purchase this $90 OEM Maxima MAF which has been used by several members here without any problem; it's certainly cheaper than the $442 OEM Pathfinder MAF.
• Q: I have a 2001.0 model year Pathfinder with a P1320 (ignition signal) code.
  A: Unfortunately, the 2001.0 model year Pathfinders seem to be plagued with ignition coil pack issues; with the 2001.5 model year, the ignition coil packs were revised. You cannot use these newer coil packs in your engine. If you have a P1320 code without any associated misfire code, the common fix is to replace all six spark plugs and coil packs.
  
  Some other things you can try first, however:
  • Loosen and retighten ground screws
  • Clean the MAF sensor
  • Follow the diagnostic procedure in the factory service manual, under "DTC P1320 IGNITION SIGNAL"
  As for replacement coil packs, Courtesy Parts sells OEM ignition coil packs for $92.23 each at the time of this writing:
  • Coil pack #1
  • Coil packs #2-6
  EverythingNissan.com also sells OEM ignition coil packs for $82.35 each at the time of this writing:
  • Coil pack #1
  • Coil packs #2-6
  Use OEM spark plugs (NGK PLFR5A-11). There is a spark plug replacement how-to here.
• Q: How do I replace spark plugs on my VQ35DE-equipped Pathfinder or QX4?
  A: See the spark plug replacement how-to here.
• Q: How do I replace spark plugs and the distributor cap & rotor on my VG33E-equipped Pathfinder or QX4?
  A: See this guide.
• Q: What's this hoopla about needing to put threadlocker on the power valve screws of my VQ35DE-equipped Pathfinder?
  A: There is a potential issue where no threadlocker was applied to the power valve screws during assembly; this is not a very widespread issue, however. The lack of threadlocker allows the possibility of the very small screws to back out of their screw holes due to vibration, and get eventually sucked in by the engine when the power valves are actuated, potentially causing significant engine damage. It is not known which specific VINs or years are affected. Applying red threadlocker to the 12 power valve screws is a way to ensure this does not occur. There is an excellent how-to with pictures detailing the process here (thanks BowTied on NPORA for writing the original how-to). If you prefer the dealer to perform this procedure, it will cost somewhere in the range of $300.
• Q: How do I clean the MAF sensor?
  A: See the bottom of this how-to guide. You may need to use a tamper-resistant T20 Torx bit to remove the screws securing the MAF sensor.
• Q: How do I clean the throttle body?
  A: See this how-to. While the thread specifically applies to the 3.3L (VG33E) model R50, the general procedure is the same for most vehicles on the road today.
• Q: How do I replace the PCV valve in my VG33E-equipped Pathfinder or QX4?
  A: See this how-to.
• Q: How do I replace the PCV valve in my VQ35DE-equipped Pathfinder or QX4?
  A: The PCV valve is located under the lower intake manifold and is irritating to get to. This guide will show you how to get below the lower intake manifold. Here is the parts list for replacing the PCV valve. You can read my PCV valve replacement horror story if you want.
• Q: What are some power adders to get better performance from my Pathfinder / QX4?
  A: For the R50s, there aren't many options; the two most popular power adders are custom exhaust and a cold air intake (or a high-flow drop-in filter). Some other power adders available for the R50 are high performance camshafts and an ECU reprogramming service. Other options include universal power adders such as upgraded spark plugs (such as Pulstar or something similar), electric fan conversion, throttle body bypass and a timing advance. The R5's have a plethora of options, including custom bent exhaust systems, a supercharger, custom headers, and high performance camshafts, as well as a slew of aftermarket ECU programmers. The R51s can also benefit from the same universal power adders listed above for the R50.
  
  One relatively simple mod is either the removal of the airbox resonator, or cutting/drilling some holes in it. See this thread.

• Q: How do I drop the automatic transmission pan and replace the filter on my R50?
  A: See this how-to.
• Q: The transmission fluid in my Pathfinder or QX4's automatic transmission has never been serviced. What should I do?
  A: There is a common myth that performing a flush on a high-mileage transmission without previous service can kill it. This is perpetuated by vehicle owners who begin to experience transmission failures such as slipping and harsh shifting and have never serviced the transmission previously. Thinking a complete fluid change (aka a flush) might fix everything, they have one performed. The transmission dies a week later, because the transmission was on its death bed already due to neglected maintenance; the flush is then blamed for the transmission's death instead of the owner's neglect.
  
  Anyways, the answer is yes, change the fluid, especially if it is brown on the dipstick and smells burnt. I would do so gently, however, with a pan drop to examine the magnet at the bottom of the transmission pan for significant debris and to change the in-pan filter/strainer (which is more like a rock catcher than a filter - even the best in-pan filters do not filter below 80 microns), then with several drain and fills of the fluid with a few weeks worth of driving in between to exchange the vast majority of the old fluid.
  
  Installation of a Magnefine in-line transmission filter on the transmission cooler return line is also highly recommended. The Magnefine contains a very strong magnet to catch all ferrous wear material, and filtering media in the range of 35 microns to catch anything non-ferrous. Install one on the power steering return line too to significantly prolong the usable life of the power steering fluid. Ford has tested the Magnefine (even installed backwards) and found no appreciable pressure drop with the filter installed. Ford also used to recommend a rebadged Magnefine for use after a transmission rebuild or replacement, but no longer does so for some reason (nobody knows why). A 3/8" Magnefine will fit both the transmission and power steering hoses. See a Magnefine filter in use for 23,000 miles opened here, and see one that I personally ran on my Pathfinder for 13k miles here. The transmission cooler return line is located on the passenger side, and the power steering return hose is connected to the tube on the side of the power steering fluid reservior.
• Q: How do I perform a transmission cooler line fluid exchange?
  A: You will need:
  • 12 to 15 quarts of automatic transmission fluid, preferably Nissan Matic D
  • A clear gallon jug, something like an empty milk jug
  • Another large container to store used fluid for disposal
  1. Disconnect the transmission cooler return line and secure it in a collection bucket such as a clear gallon milk jug. This will be the hose on the passenger side of the vehicle; disconnect the end leading towards the transmission.
  2. Have a helper start the car while you watch the bucket - once it's half full (2 quarts), yell for the helper to stop the engine.
  3. Add 2 quarts of ATF through the transmission dipstick.
  4. Drain collection jug into larger jug (i.e. a Disposoil - these only hold 10 quarts though in my experience, so have something else to hold the last 5 quarts).
  5. Repeat steps 2-4 until you're out of ATF.
  6. Check fluid for proper level (see the next question and answer for details), and recycle the old ATF. Any place that takes used oil will likely recycle ATF.
  
  It is advisable to install a Magnefine in-line transmission filter as well. See the previous question and answer for information regarding the Magnefine.
• Q: How do I properly check the automatic transmission fluid level?
  A:
  1. Drive around for 10 minutes in the city after the transmission is at operating temperature.
  2. Park on a level surface and apply the parking brake.
  3. With P selected, shift through every gear and return to P.
  4. Pull the transmission dipstick with the engine idling, wipe it clean, reinsert it completely, and read the level. It must be within the notched area labeled "HOT". Check for fluid contamination after wiping on a paper towel.
  
  
  
  The fluid should be red, and not smell burnt. If it is, do a drain & fill or a cooler line exchange.
• Q: Should I install an auxiliary transmission cooler? Should it be installed in-line with the stock cooler?
  A: The R50 does not seem to be afflicted by the infamous "stock cooler clogging" issue that WD21 Pathfinders were plagued by. However, if you tow frequently, it would be a wise idea to install an auxiliary transmission cooler to help lower transmission temperatures. Since the stock cooler is not as prone to clogging as the WD21 transmission, it should be installed in-line with the stock cooler in the radiator. The stock cooler will help warm up the fluid to operating temperature quicker on cold starts, and a oil-to-water cooler is extremely efficient. Stacked plate type coolers are more efficient than fin and tube type coolers.
  
  I personally run this B&M 13,000 BTU (19,000 GVW) stacked plate transmission cooler in-line with the stock cooler, as well as a Magnefine in-line filter (described three questions above), even though I rarely tow anything and never go off-road. However, the slightly thicker B&M 70264 which is rated at 24k GVW will fit without an issue on an R50. You can find an album of photos detailing my transmission cooler install here.
  
  Ideally, before installing the auxiliary transmission cooler, one would clean it out. See this Nissan TSB (NTB00-056b - 1988 AND LATER NISSAN VEHICLES AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER CLEANING) for details.
  
  If you have a WD21 and are installing an auxiliary transmission cooler, do not plumb it in-line with the stock cooler unless you clean it out and install an in-line filter.
• Q: I have a 2001 Pathfinder or QX4. I feel a shift flare when the following conditions are met:
  "Shift flare" can be described as the transmission slipping during shifting, engine RPMs rising, and it seems that the transmission is no longer in gear.
  • During first -> second or second -> third gear shifts with moderate throttle application and only when the vehicle is cold and/or has been sitting for at least 3 hours or overnight.
  • During first -> second gear shifts when accelerating hard from a stop and then backing off the throttle, and at all temperatures.
  A: Please see NTB01-055a 2001 PATHFINDER AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 1-2 OR 2-3 SHIFT FLARE for details.
  
  Ensure that your transmission fluid level is correct and is fresh (see the previous question and answer for steps). Other than that, the fix as specified in the TSB can be a costly one. To my knowledge, there has not been any transmission damage as a result of this flaring, so it may be possible to simply live with the issue.
• Q: My transmission and/or differential plugs are difficult to remove.
  A: Before you potentially cause damage to the plug by attempting to use a 1/2" square drive breaker bar, get this drain plug socket set and use its 13mm socket along with PB Blaster or other penetrating lubricant to remove the plugs. Always attempt to remove the fill plug first! If you remove the drain plug but can't loosen the fill plug, you can't move until you do.
• Q: Why can't I use GL-5 fluid in my manual transmission?
  A: GL-5 gear oils contain additives that can be harmful to yellow metals (brass synchros). When a fluid states that it is GL-4 and GL-5 suitable, it is likely referring to use in a differential, not in a manual transmission. While GL-4 fluids can sometimes be difficult to obtain, I would not chance significant transmission damage, especially when the lubricant in question is changed out at relatively lengthy intervals, in order to save a few dollars by using an easily-obtained GL-5 rated lubricant. Redline MT-90 and Amsoil MTG are excellent options suitable for use in our manual transmissions.
• Q: Can I use GL-5 fluid in my VQ35DE-equipped R50's part-time 4WD or VG33E-equipped R50's transfer case?
  A: I'm not sure whether there are any components in the transfer case that would be damaged by a GL-5 fluid, but I wouldn't chance it - the FSM does specify GL-4 fluid only for the transfer case, so use that. See the previous question & answer for some excellent fluid options.
• Q: How often should I grease my driveshaft(s)?
  A: Depends on your driving style. Grease the driveshaft(s) every time after there is potential water entry, such as driving through standing water. Otherwise, if your Pathfinder primarily stays on the road, greasing every oil change is likely sufficient. If you tow, greasing more frequently is probably a wise idea.
• Q: Why do 1996-2001.5 Pathfinders specify grease containing molybdenum disulphide?
  A: Molybdenum disulphide is an anti-wear additive that plates to metal to create a barrier against wear. I don't know why the 2002-2004 FSMs specify grease that does not contain it.
• Q: I can't find the grease fittings on my driveshaft.
  A: Since the fittings rotate with the driveshaft, you may need to move the vehicle several feet to get the fitting facing a direction where it is accesible. Using a grease gun with a flexible hose helps in this regard as well. Do note that 4WD models only have a grease fitting on the front propeller shaft.
• Q: Can I use 75W-90 synthetic gear oil in my differential(s)?
  A: Certainly. While the FSM says 80W-90 is preferred, there will be no problem running 75W-90 (of which most are synthetic). Synthetic gear oil will lower differential temperatures somewhat and are especially recommended if you tow frequently.
• Q: I hear chattering from my limited-slip differential(s), especially when making turns.
  A: You may be using a fluid that does not contain LSD additive, or it does not contain enough. Add LSD additive as required until the chattering stops.

• Q: My R50 sways at high speeds (on the highway), what is causing this?
  A: This is a common problem on R50 Pathfinders/QX4s that occurs when the lower control arm bushings become worn out. The issue can be fixed simply by replacing these bushings. Removal and installation of the bushings is not an easy job and requires special tools. A professional installation should be considered.
  
  Note: Polyurethane bushings are available to permanently alleviate this issue; however, new lower control arms (w/ new bushings included) can also be purchased. When considering the price of polyurethane bushings and the price of labor for a mechanic's removal/install - it may be cheaper to purchase completely new lower control arms and tackle the project yourself.
  
  This is not a difficult job, but requires some specialized tools (a press and possibly a come-a-long) to do correctly. The old bushings should be pressed out of the control arms. Doing it any other way may damage the control arms. Average labor rate to replace lower control arm bushings is about 1.2hrs.
• Q: I could use some information about suspension lifts for my R50.
  A: See "Suspension Lifts 101".
• Q: How do I install an AirLift 1000 rear air spring kit on my R50?
  A: See this how-to.

• Q: How do I change my brake pads and rotors, and regrease my wheel bearings?
  A: See this how-to. All of the steps can also be found in the BR section of the factory service manual.
• Q: How often should I change my brake fluid?
  A: Ethylene glycol based brake fluid (DOT3, DOT4, and DOT5.1) is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere. This will reduce the boiling point of the fluid, which may result in brake fade (in which case the brake pedal falls to the floor and you have reduced or no braking) if the fluid boils. The moisure also can result in corrosion and reduced life of brake components. There is no recommended service interval in either the owner's manual or factory service manual; some other makes do specify intervals, however. It is generally recommended to flush your brake fluid every 2 years. As noted in the "R50 Fluid Capacities" section, either DOT3, DOT4, or DOT5.1 brake fluid is usable. DOT4 has higher minimum wet/dry boiling points, and DOT5.1 has higher boiling points still. If you frequently tow, I would bleed the brakes yearly.
• Q: What's the difference between the DOT3, 4, 5, and 5.1 types?
  A: DOT3, DOT4, and DOT5.1 are ethylene glycol based and are all compatible with each other. DOT5 is silicone based and does not mix with the other types; never use DOT5 in a brake system that specifies DOT3, DOT4, or DOT5.1. Even if you do a thorough flush using DOT5, there still may be old fluid left in the calipers which will just sit there and absorb moisture. DOT5 brake fluid does not absorb moisture; instead, the water may just sit in the brake fluid reservoir as a "top layer" of the fluid. This isn't too big of a deal I believe, since water is non compressible, but I digress at this point.
  
  Here are the dry and wet boiling points for every DOT spec brake fluid:
  Wet boiling point refers to fluid that is 3.7% water by volume.
  

  Code: Select all

             Dry boiling point:      Wet boiling point:
  DOT3:      205 °C (401 °F)         140 °C (284 °F)
  DOT4:      230 °C (446 °F)         155 °C (311 °F)
  DOT5:      260 °C (500 °F)         180 °C (356 °F)
  DOT5.1:    270 °C (518 °F)         190 °C (374 °F)

• Q: How can I do a one-person brake bleed?
  A: The most common method is to use a vacuum fluid extractor, such as a MityVac. This connects to the brake bleeder and applies vacuum to draw the fluid out. All you need to do is crack the bleeder screw and ensure the master cylinder reservoir is always topped off. Always follow brake bleeding order (which is found in BR section of FSM under "Bleeding Brake System" subheading under "ON-VEHICLE SERVICE"). Also, be sure to close the bleeder screw before removing the fluid extractor's tube.
• Q: What's the brake bleeding order?
  All orders assume the driver's side is left, passenger's side is right.
  
  For 1996-1997 models:
  • 1. LSV air bleeder (Models equipped with LSV)
    2. Left rear brake
    3. Right rear brake
    4. Left front brake
    5. Right front brake
  For 1998-2002 models:
  • 1. LSV air bleeder (4WD models only)
    2. Left rear brake
    3. Right rear brake
    4. Left front brake
    5. Right front brake
  For 2003-2004 models:
  • 1. Left rear brake
    2. Right rear brake
    3. Left front brake
    4. Right front brake
  The LSV valve is the load-sensing valve. Here is how you bleed it:
  • 1. Disconnect the spring.
    2. Bleed the LSV like you would a brake line, then pull the lever to the full down position and repeat. Cycling the lever a few times will help get the bubbles out, too.
    3. Lubricate parts where required (see diagram below).
    4. Continue bleeding the brakes in the correct order.
  See this diagram for reference (click to enlarge):
  
  Consult your year's FSM for torque specs if you're torquing something other than the air bleeder.
  
  As for the ABS module, I'm not sure whether it gets bled during the general bleeding procedure or not. If you want to be extremely thorough, you can bleed the brakes, actuate ABS in an empty parking lot a few times to dilute the fluid, then bleed the brakes again.
• Q: Which brake fluid do you recommend?
  A: Anything that meets at least DOT3 specifications. Fluids that meet DOT4 specifications are easily found at most local auto parts stores.
  
  Some choose to use ATE Super Blue fluid due to its unique blue color and because it greatly exceeds minimum specifications. The dyed fluid allows one to easily know when all old fluid has been bled from the system. Those in Florida cannot use this fluid - see the "NOTE TO FLORIDA RESIDENTS ONLY" in the linked page. It has also been reported that this fluid's dye can stain the master cylinder reservoir. Some decide to cut the fluid 50/50 using ATE Type 200 Amber Brake Fluid in an attempt to prevent staining, which is identical to the Super Blue fluid save for the dye. Some also alternate between the Blue and Amber fluid each flush to know when all old fluid has been bled.

• Q: What is the lug pattern?
  A: 6 x 139.7mm (6 x 5.5in) for WD21s and R50s, 6 x 114.3mm (6 x 4.5in) for R51s.
• Q: What is the center bore?
  A: 100mm (3.93in)
• Q: What is the largest tire I can run with factory suspension?
  A: It is not recommended to use a tire taller than 31" as it can cause rubbing on the fender flares or front bumper. You may be able to fit larger tires, however that would require removal of the fender flares as well as an aftermarket bumper (unless you cut away some of the front bumper) and other various trimming/bending.
• Q: What is the largest tire I can run with the A.C. (Automotive Customizers) lift?
  A: With some serious trimming and bending you may be able to fit as large as a 34" tire, given the fender flares are removed and an aftermarket front bumper is used (unless you cut away some of the front bumper). The A.C. lift has different outcomes on different vehicles, some net more than 2" of lift (after settling) which can allow for larger tires.
• Q: Which are better, steel or aluminum wheels?
  A: It depends on your application. Steel is much stronger and much cheaper, however it can rust very easily and it weighs significantly more than aluminum or alloy wheels. Aluminum (or alloy) wheels are much lighter and will never rust but they can be quite expensive. If the vehicle spends a lot of time off-road, then steel is recommended for strength. If the vehicle is a daily driver or spends most of its time on the road, then aluminum (or alloy) is recommended for weight savings and better fuel economy. Either wheel will perform the same in either on-road or off-road applications; it really comes down to personal preference.
• Q: Can I paint my factory wheels a different color?
  A: Sure! It's not a simple process by any means, but it can be done in a weekend. The job is much easier if the tires are removed from the rims, although it isn't necessary. For some detailed instructions as well as some pictures of the process, check out the following threads: Painted my stock rims and Painted My Wheels

• Q: How often should I change my engine coolant?
  A: Once at 60,000 miles or 48 months, then every 30,000 miles or 24 months.
• Q: How do I drain and fill my radiator?
  A: Here is the process I use:
  
  1. Set the heater controls to maximum heat and run blower motor for 10 seconds with engine off, ignition at "ON".
  2. Remove radiator cap and open rear air relief tube at rear center of engine (see picture of air relief tube; it's the tube covered with a black rubber cap in the center of the picture).
  3. Drain coolant using the drain plug at bottom of radiator. Inspect coolant for contamination such as rust, corrosion, or discoloration; if any contamination is present, consider getting a flush done.
  4. Unclamp radiator overflow reservoir hose next to radiator cap and route it below the engine so the contents of the reservoir can drain. Flush using a gallon of distilled water. Mine had a lot of sediment, which is why I used so much distilled water to flush it all out.
  5. Pre-mix 1 gallon Genuine Nissan Coolant (see below for choosing between green and blue coolants) and 1 gallon distilled water using a suitable container, such as a new gas can that holds 2+ gallons. Reinstall the drain plug, make sure the O-ring is still present! Drain plug torque is 7 - 13 in-lbs.
  6. Fill radiator to bottom of neck and wait five minutes. Fill overflow reservoir to "MAX" line. Inspect the radiator cap while you wait (see the next Q&A for instructions).
  7. Fill radiator to top of neck, then install air relief tube cap and radiator cap.
  8. Run vehicle to operating temperature (don't drive around just yet). You can rev the engine to around 2k RPM to speed this process up once the temperature gauge starts climbing. Watch for temperature spikes and verify operation of heater. Once at normal operating temperature, shut off the engine.
  9. Check overflow reservoir level. Fill to "MAX" if necessary. Once it's at "MAX," you can now drive as normal. Watch coolant reservoir level and check for leaks periodically (every time you park, ideally) and top up to "MAX" if required. If the overflow reservoir becomes empty, top up the radiator and the reservoir once your engine is cold and the rad cap is no longer hot, and continue this process until the coolant level no longer drops (or if you cannot wait for your engine to cool, just top up your reservoir and check/fill radiator at the next convenient opportunity).
  
  NTB01-057 - REVISED MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES states that "during standard scheduled maintenance, only the radiator is to be drained and filled; draning the engine block is no longer part of standard scheduled maintenance. If drained engine coolant contains contaminants such as rust, corrosion, or discoloration, draining the block or flushing the cooling system may be indicated."
• Q: How can I check the condition of my radiator cap?
  A: See NTB04-018 - RADIATOR CAP INSPECTION DURING COOLANT SYSTEM SERVICE.
• Q: Should I use the green or blue Nissan coolant?
  A: Read this quoted TSB. Either can be used as they are safe to mix. If you are getting a flush done at the dealer, ask them to use the blue coolant, but if you're just doing a drain & fill and already have the green coolant in there, use green as adding blue to green will reduce the life expectancy of the blue coolant to that of the green (which is 4 years or 60,000 miles). Always use distilled or demineralized water when servicing a coolant system.
• Q: How often should I change my power steering fluid, and how do I do it?
  A: There is no specified interval for replacing power steering fluid. When it's brown and/or smells burnt, it's definitely time to change it - but ideally the fluid would never get to that point. You can change it using a turkey baster (not your wife's!) or a suction gun. Open the reservoir, remove the small filter, then suck most of the fluid out and replace with synthetic ATF. Synthetic ATF will reduce temperatures and provide better cold-weather performance; no longer will your power steering pump groan and moan during those cold starts in the winter months. Clean the small filter using brake cleaner if it has any contaminants on it. Recycle the used power steering fluid at any place that recycles engine oil.
• Q: How often do I change my fuel filter in my R50?
  A: Bi-anually should be sufficient, especially if you previously replaced the fuel filter with a high-quality part such as the OEM filter or a Wix/NAPA Gold (for R50s, part # 33023 / 3023, respectively; NAPA Gold filters are manufactured by Wix). Some choose to replace it yearly, including myself. Either way, just don't forget about this; a partially restricted or clogged fuel filter will reduce performance noticeably and shorten the life of the fuel pump as it will have to work harder to pump fuel through a restricted filter. There is an excellent how-to regarding fuel filter replacement here.
• Q: How do I change my cabin air filter in my R50?
  A: Read this thread for the replacement procedure. In my opinion, it's not worth it to purchase the OEM cabin air filter; read this thread. If you do not have a cabin air filter, see these instructions for adding one.

• Q: My seatbelts are slow to retract, or don't retract by themselves at all. Is there a fix?
  A: Seatbelts on Nissan vehicles 1989-2002 are warrantied for the lifetime of the vehicle; on 2003 and newer vehicles it's 10 years. You can have your seatbelts replaced for free by Nissan or Infiniti. Read this post.
• Q: My 2001-2004 Pathfinder's digital clock doesn't work! How do I fix it?
  A: See this thread. For you 1996-2000 owners that are wondering where the stock clock is, it was in the factory head unit. Hopefully your replacement head unit has a clock function.
• Q: My HVAC blower motor only stays on one speed and I can't change it, or only works on the highest setting!
  A: If you have the automatic HVAC system (with LCD display), then the issue is most likely the fan control amplifier. This part basically controls the four fan speeds and it is probably burnt out and requires replacement. If you have the manual (three dials) HVAC controls, then the issue is the blower motor resistor pack. The resistor pack is a bank of resistors which control the four fan speeds. The resistors are burnt out and will need to be replaced to restore all of the fan speeds. The following thread explains both issues in detail and steps on how to replace the parts: Blower Motor Problem
• Q: My 1996-2001 Pathfinder or QX4's blower motor fan makes a ticking noise at fan speeds 1 or 2. Is there a fix?
  A: Yes. See this thread.
• Q: My windows are extremely slow in cold weather.
  A: Read this thread. The most common fix is to apply silicone lubricant to the window tracks to clean any dirt and grime build-up and to help lubricate the window tracks.
• Q: One or more of my windows will roll all the way up, but then it backs down several inches.
  A: This is caused by the window limiter swith being confused. See this thread for details on resetting it.

• Q: How do I replace my R50's instrument cluster bulbs with LEDs?
  A: There are a couple threads on this subject:
  • All bulb sizing and interior LED conversion details
  • Changed the dash lights
  • How To: Replace Instrument Cluster Lamps
• Q: How do I remove the radio in my 1996-2004 Pathfinder or QX4?
  A: See this thread.
• Q: Can I retrofit an overhead console (with compass and thermometer) into my Pathfinder or QX4?
  A: Absolutely! See this thread.
• Q: Is there anything I can do to improve the sound of the stock Bose system in my R50?
  A: You can replace the capacitors in the stock tweeters to lower their cutoff frequency, which will allow them to produce more sound. See this how-to.

• Factory service manuals:
  • 1995
  • 1994
  • 1990
  • 1989
  To save a copy of the FSM, right click -> Save As on every PDF, save them into a single folder, then use fwd.pdf to navigate.
  The 1990 & 1989 FSMs are single PDF files and are rather large (about 115MB), so right click -> Save As instead of waiting for them to load in your browser window.
  The same FSM was used for the Hardbody (D21) and Pathfinder (WD21), but it's based around the Hardbody. Pathfinder-specific differences are noted in the FSM.
  There were no electronic FSMs until 1994, so that explains the lack of 1991-1993 FSMs; the two early ones are scans somebody made, and ironically look much better than Nissan's own scans.

• 2-door WD21: 1986.5 - 1990
• 4-door WD21: 1990 - 1995
  For history about the Pathfinder's origins and the reason why the 2-door model was eliminated in 1990, read this post on NPORA - at least the first section.

• Engine oil:
  VG30E:
  • 2WD:
    • With oil filter: 4.25 quarts
    • Without oil filter: 3.80 quarts
  • 4WD:
    • With oil filter: 3.60 quarts
    • Without oil filter: 3.17 quarts
  KA24E:
  • 2WD:
    • With oil filter: 4.12 quarts
    • Without oil filter: 3.70 quarts
  • 4WD:
    • With oil filter: 3.49 quarts
    • Without oil filter: 3.06 quarts
• Cooling system (including reservoir):
  • VG30E:
    • 2WD: 11.3 quarts (approximately 3 gallons)
    • 4WD: 12.36 quarts (approrimxately 3.25 gallons)
  • KA24E:
    • 2WD: 8.56 quarts (approximately 2.14 gallons)
    • 4WD: 9.51 quarts (approrimxately 2.38 gallons)
    Reservoir capacity is 3/4ths of a quart (0.75 quarts) for all models.
• Manual transmission gear oil:
  Use API GL-4 fluid only or risk damaging brass synchros! Scroll up for an explanation under the "Transmission and driveline" Q&A section.
  • FS5W71C
    • 2WD: 2.11 quarts
    • 4WD: 4.22 quarts
  • FS5R30A
    If you have a 4WD Pathfinder with this transmission, you must overfill the transmission. See this thread on NPORA.
    • 2WD: 2.536 quarts
    • 4WD: 3.80 quarts
• Transfer gear oil: 2.32 quarts
  Use Genuine Nissan ATF or equivalent Type Dexron II. Dexron II and III are no longer being licensed; use a Dexron III fluid, preferably synthetic for better cold-weather performance and lower operating temperatures.
  75W-90 gear oil is also usable (it is not specified which GL rating fluid is usable; I would use GL-4 to be on the safe side), but do not mix ATF and gear oil in the transfer case.
• Manual steering gear oil: 0.34 quarts
  Use API GL-4 fluid only.
• Differential gear oil:
  Use GL-5 fluid, preferably 80W-90. 75W-90 is usable as well; scroll up for more details under the "Transmission and driveline" Q&A section.
  • Rear:
    • H190A: 1.58 quarts
    • C200: 1.37 quarts
    • H233B: 2.95 quarts
  • Front:
    • R180A: 1.37 quarts
    • R200A: 1.58 quarts
• Automatic transmission fluid capacity (with torque converter):
  Use Genuine Nissan ATF or equivalent Dexron III/Mercon fluid.
  • 2WD: 8.34 quarts
  • 4WD: 8.98 quarts
• Power steering fluid: 1.05 quarts
  Use synthetic ATF for better cold-weather performance and lower operating temperatures; scroll up for more details under the "Other components or issues" Q&A section.
• Brake and clutch fluid: however much you need to flush the lines until clear fluid comes out of the bleeders.
  Brake bleeding order can be found under the "Brakes" Q&A section below, or in BR section of FSM under "Bleeding Brake System" subheading under "CHECK AND ADJUSTMENT".
  Use DOT3, DOT4, or DOT5.1. All three are ethylene glycol based and are interchangeable; DOT4 and DOT5.1 have higher minimum wet and dry boiling points. Do not use DOT5 fluid as it is silicone based and is not miscible with the other DOT fluids. Scroll up for more details under the "Brakes" Q&A section.
• Multi-purpose grease: NLGI No. 2 lithium soap base
• Free-running hub grease (Auto-lock): Genuine Nissan grease or equivalent

• Engine oil drain plug: 22 - 29 ft-lbs
• Transmission drain plug: 22 - 29 ft-lbs
• Front differential:
  • R180A & R200A:
    • Filler plug: 29 - 43 ft-lbs
    • Drain plug: 29 - 43 ft-lbs
• Rear differential:
  • H190A, H233B:
    • Filler plug: 43 - 72 ft-lbs
    • Drain plug: 43 - 72 ft-lbs
  • C200:
    • Filler plug: 29 - 43 ft-lbs
    • Drain plug: 43 - 72 ft-lbs
• Manual transmission fill and drain plugs: 18 - 25 ft-lbs
• Transfer case fill and drain plugs: 18 - 25 ft-lbs
• Spark plugs: 14 - 22 ft-lbs
• Wheel lug nuts: 87 - 108 ft-lbs
• Fuel line hose clamps: 8.4 - 13.2 in-lbs

• Recalls:
  • NTB96-108b - VOLUNTARY RECALL CAMPAIGN FRONT SEAT BELT BUCKLE REPLACEMENT (affects 1994 Pathfinder)
  • NTB95-085 - VOLUNTARY SERVICE CAMPAIGN FRONT SEAT BELT BUCKLES (affects 1988-1991 Pathfinders)
  • 90V072 - VOLUNTARY RECALL CAMPAIGN FMVSS CERTIFICATION LABEL TIRE PRESSURE INFORMATION (affects 1987-1990 Pathfinder with E & XE trims)
  • 87PTH - VOLUNTARY RECALL CAMPAIGN 1987 PATHFINDER (VINYL SEATS) REAR SEAT BELT
• TSBs:
  • NTB97-009a - FS5R30A TRANSMISSION WHINE

• Q: Why was the 2-door model discontinued?
  A: For history about the Pathfinder's origins and the reason why the 2-door model was eliminated in 1990, read this post on NPORA - at least the first section, as that explains the 2-door discontinuation.
• Q: What's the real mileage a 94 or similar model gets?
  A: Between 12-15 city, 16-20 highway. Mileage was stated at 15/18 when they were new. Depends on engine condition and maintenance. You be better off to test drive one to see if the power output is decent enough for you, if you upsize the tires you're going to lose speed/acceleration real fast. 153 HP, 180 ft-lbs of torque is what they came with new, no idea if that'll last 100K.
• Q: What are some common problems?
  A:
  • Automatic transmission cooler clogging - scroll down to the "Transmission and driveline" Q&A section for an explanation.
  • 4WD Manual transmission underfilling - scroll down to the "Transmission and driveline" Q&A section for an explanation.
  • Frame rust
    Even on non-offroaded Pathys, the frame can rust out quite badly from the inside out, particularly in the rear over the wheels and above the gas tank. Tap on your frame with a small hammer or poke it with a screwdriver to see if you have more holes than you should. ALWAYS inspect any WD21 Pathfinder you wish to purchase before buying it in this regard. Other rust-prone areas are directly under the gas pedal on the floor (the catalytic converter is there and sometimes a leak can shoot superhot exhaust at the floor, which rusts it out badly), under the back seats on the floor (poor seam sealing on Nissan's part) and at the tension rod frame mounts up front. Tension rods are the short bars that go between the lower control arm and the frame in the front suspension. The tension rod mounts have a tendency to waller out and/or rust out, which can result in a broken tension rod and the need to re-weld some steel back into the mounts to fix the problem. Tension rods are also called compression rods or strut rods. I recommend using polyurethane bushings to replace stock rubber tension rod bushings whenever possible.
  • Exhaust manifolds leaking
    Very common, caused by poor exhaust stud material, the studs break and cause the manifold to leak. Usually sounds like a clicking noise at startup that gradually quiets down after driving for a little while. Broken-off rusted studs inside the head can be VERY painful to extract due to their location and the fact that if you mis-drill the hole in the head you can drill into the water jacket and then have to buy a whole new head, but studs that break off outside the head can often be hammered and extracted without drilling. The fix: use 300ZX turbo exhaust manifold studs instead. They used different steel on those.
  • Steering problems
    Have someone else turn the steering wheel back and forth quickly while you watch the steering components move underneath... excessive play or looseness in joints can add up to a hefty steering parts bill at the repair shop, mostly because 99% of the shops are crooked and want you to replace everything but also because the steering on WD21's is weeeeeaaaaak. Main problem is the centerlink design which allows the tie rods to twist torsionally, thereby wallering out the joints on both the CL AND the tie rods. The idler arm will follow suit in short order, then the balljoints. It adds up.
• Q: How do I clean the blower motor resistor area?
  A: See this thread on NPORA. You need to clean this out once in a while, or you risk fire. This issue is not as prevalent on R50s due to the cabin air filter which is usually installed from the factory.
  
  

• Q: How do I change my timing belt?
  A: There is an excellent guide on NPORA here.

• Q: What's this hoopla about the stock transmission cooler clogging?
  A: The tube transmission cooler at the bottom of the radiator has a tendency to clog, especially if the transmission fluid has not been maintained. If you own a WD21 and haven't yet installed an auxiliary transmission cooler and bypassed the stock cooler, go buy the largest one you can afford and install it now.
  Alternatively, you can clean the stock cooler (see NTB00-056b - 1988 AND LATER NISSAN VEHICLES AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER CLEANING for details), do a cooler line exchange (the procedure is detailed in the previous post), and then install an in-line Magnefine cooler on the return line. An auxiliary transmission cooler is still highly recommended if you go with this option.
• Q: How do I overfill my FS5R30A manual transmission on my 4WD Pathfinder?
  A: You can add gear oil through the shifter hole. Always use API GL-4 rated fluid; see the explanation in the previous post under the "Transmission and driveline" Q&A section.
  • 1. Pull up the carpet from the passenger side to free the gear shift, and remove the shifter boot.
    2. Cut off the zip-tie holding the gearshift dustboot, and pull it up from the shifter assembly. You will then see a snap-ring underneath, remove it (you do have snap-ring pliers, right?) and then remove the gearshift lever. Pour 1.5 liters (1.6 US quarts) of new gear oil into the transmission.
    3. Replace shifter, snap-ring, dustboot, shifter boot and carpet. You are done!
    Note, shifter should be in neutral, and be careful when removing and inserting it as there is a plastic swivel thing on the end. (It only goes back in correctly one way, so if you are not sure it's right, make sure) You need a long replacement zip-tie for the dustboot, I think an 8" works.
  See this NPORA thread for more details regarding the TSB and overfilling procedure.

• Q: I need information regarding a body lift or a suspension lift for my WD21.
  A: Your best bet would be to search on NPORA. I don't know too much about suspensions, and as I said previously, not many of us here have WD21s.

• Q: What's the brake bleeding order?
  All orders assume the driver's side is left, passenger's side is right.
  • 1. LSV air bleeder (Models equipped with LSV)
    2. Left rear brake
    3. Right rear brake
    4. Left front brake
    5. Right front brake
    6. R-ABS actuator (Models equipped with R-ABS)
  I believe the WD21 Pathfinders do not have load sensing valves (LSV).
  
  If you have a D21 Hardbody and are reading this, the LSV (load sensing valve) bleeding procedure is generally the same as the R50 (see previous post under "Brakes" section).
  Check the BR section of the FSM under "LOAD SENSING VALVE" if you require an exploded parts diagram.
  
  As far as I know, the R-ABS module bleeds just like a brake line.

• Q: What is the lug pattern?
  A: 6 x 139.7mm (6 x 5.5in) for WD21s and R50s, 6 x 114.3mm (6 x 4.5in) for R51s.
• Q: What is the center bore?
  A: 100mm (3.93in)

• Owner's manuals:
  • 2005 and newer Pathfinders
• Factory service manuals:
  • 2005 - 2010 Pathfinders
    To save a copy of the FSM, right click -> Save As on every PDF, save them into a single folder, then use fwd.pdf to navigate.

• Engine oil
  • Drain and refill
    • With oil filter change
      • VQ40DE: 5.4 quarts
      • VK56DE: 6.87 quarts
    • Without oil filter change
      • VQ40DE: 5.07 quarts
      • VK56DE: 6.55 quarts
  • Dry engine (engine overhaul)
    • VQ40DE: 6.65 quarts
    • VK56DE: 8.03 quarts
• Coolant system (including reservior)
  • Without rear A/C: 10.77 quarts (approximately 2.7 gallons)
  • With rear A/C: 14.16 quarts (approximately 3.54 gallons)
• Automatic transmission fluid
  Use Genuine Nissan Matic S ATF.
  • VQ40DE: 10.88 quarts
  • VK56DE: 11.2 quarts
• Transfer fluid
  Use Genuine Nissan Matic D ATF.
  • ATX14B: 3.17 quarts
  • TX15B: 2.11 quarts
• Rear differential oil
  Use API GL-5 75W-90 synthetic gear oil.
  • VQ40DE: 1.48 quarts
  • VK56DE: 1.85 quarts
• Front differential oil
  Use API GL-5 80W-90 gear oil.
  • VQ40DE: 0.9 quarts
  • VK56DE: 1.69 quarts
• Power steering fluid:
  Use synthetic ATF for better cold-weather performance and lower operating temperatures; scroll up for more details under the "Other components or issues" Q&A section.
• Brake fluid: however much you need to flush the lines until clear fluid comes out of the bleeders.
  Brake bleeding order can be found in BR section of FSM under "Bleeding Brake System" subheading under "BRAKE FLUID" which is "ON-VEHICLE MAINTENANCE".
  Use DOT3, DOT4, or DOT5.1. All three are ethylene glycol based and are interchangeable; DOT4 and DOT5.1 have higher minimum wet and dry boiling points. Do not use DOT5 fluid as it is silicone based and is not miscible with the other DOT fluids. Scroll up for more details under the "Brakes" Q&A section in the first post.
• Multi-purpose grease: NLGI No. 2 lithium soap base
• A/C system refrigerant: 1.87 ± 0.11 lb
  Use HFC-134a (R134a).
• A/C system oil: 210mL (7.1 US fluid ounces)
  Use Nissan A/C System Oil Type S or equivalent.

• Engine oil drain plug: 25 ft-lbs
• Transmission drain plug: 25 ft-lbs
• Rear differential fill and drain plugs:
  • R200: 25 ft-lbs
  • R230: 25 ft-lbs
• Front differential fill and drain plugs:
  • R180A: 25 ft-lbs
  • M205: 27 ft-lbs
• Transfer fluid:
  • ATX14B:
    Fill and drain plugs: 26 ft-lbs
  • TX15B:
    Fill and drain plugs: 26 ft-lbs
• Spark plugs: 18 ft-lbs
• Ignition coil packs: 62 in-lbs
• Wheel lug nuts: 98 ft-lbs

• Recalls:
  • NTB09-001 - VOLUNTARY RECALL CAMPAIGN 2005 - 2009 FRONTIER, XTERRA, PATHFINDER, FRONT AIR BAG CRASH ZONE SENSOR
  • NTB08-003 - VOLUNTARY EMISSIONS RECALL CAMPAIGN 2008 PATHFINDER V-8 EMISSION LABEL
  • NTB08-041 - VOLUNTARY SERVICE CAMPAIGN 2008 ARMADA - 2008 PATHFINDER - 2008 MURANO CLOCK
  • NTB05-050 - VOLUNTARY SERVICE CAMPAIGN 2005 PATHFINDER VEHICLE DYNAMIC CONTROL (VDC)
  • NTB05-086 - VOLUNTARY SERVICE CAMPAIGN BODY CONTROL MODULE SUB-HARNESS (affects 2005 Pathfinder)
  • NTB08-020 - VOLUNTARY RECALL CAMPAIGN HITCH MOUNTED BICYCLE RACK
• TSBs:
  • NTB04-018 - RADIATOR CAP INSPECTION DURING COOLANT SYSTEM SERVICE
  • NTB00-056b - 1988 AND LATER NISSAN VEHICLES AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER CLEANING
  There is also a radiator warranty extension for 2005-2010 Pathfinders. Read here.

Oil Viscosity     Range
20:               5.6 - 9.2
30:               9.3 - 12.4
40:               12.5 - 16.2
50:               16.3 - 21.8
60:               21.9 - 26.1

• More pleats: means less resistance to flow and a longer length of time before the filter would potentially clog. There is less resistance to flow only when the oil pump is in pressure relief mode; oil pumps are positive displacement, which means the oil pump maintains the same amount of flow at a given RPM regardless of the filter pressure drop.
• Silicone anti-drainback valve: the anti-drainback valve keeps the oil in the filter when the engine is shut off to help prevent dry starts of the engine. Nitrile can become hard and brittle with heat and time, while a silicone ADBV does not.
• Bypass valve: if the oil is too thick to flow through the media (for example, during a cold start in winter) or if the media is full, the bypass valve will open and allow the oil to bypass the filter. This particular Purolator filter has a coil spring bypass valve in the thread end of the filter; the Fram uses a combination ADBV and bypass valve
• Combination anti-drainback valve and bypass valve: a matter of personal preference; a single piece of nitrile serving two rather important functions doesn't seem very durable to me.
• Metal vs. fiber end-caps: once again, simply a matter of personal preference; metal seems more durable than Fram's "engineered media" end-caps.

• Oil Filters Revealed
• Oil Filters - Dissected

suobs wrote:This is a useful thread with a lot of information. How come no owner's manuals prior to 1996? Also, is there anything like this Sticky for the pickups?

Steve

General model questions:
Q: How do I determine whether I have a 2001.0 or 2001.5 model year Pathfinder?
A: Check the manufacturing date of your Pathfinder on the driver door jamb. Dates 01/01/2000-08/31/2000 are 2001.0 model years; 09/01/2000-06/03/2001 are 2001.5 model years.

Johnnypath wrote:Went to dealer after work and I have 2001.0 model
Part numbers:
cyl 1: PN: 22448-4w001 Part code:22433 $119.78 + tax
cyl 2-6: PN: 22448-4w011 Part code:22433+A $119.78 + tax
Thanks