How To: Replace Brake Rotors and Pads for 2001 QX4/Pathfinder

[Empty V]

Tools

Impact Wrench 22mm, 14mm driversImpossible to find Wheel Bearing Lock Nut Wrench(pics coming soon)Philips ScrewdriverChiselRubber Mallet

Consumables

Brake CleanerBearing GreaseLatex (or other) GlovesLava Pro Hand Cleaner/Degreaser

Parts

DBA Slotted Brake Rotors 629SL + 629SREBC Yellow Stuff Brake PadsBeck Arnley 051-2683 Outer Wheel Bearing, you don't need the outer covering that comes with the bearing.

Step 1: Remove wheelStep 2: Remove caliper bolts and hang caliper from strut spring or let it rest on top of the baffle plateStep 3: Remove caliper bracket bolts and caliper bracket with brake pads attachedStep 4: Pry out hubcap with mallet and chiselStep 5: Remove 2 lock washer screws and pull out the lock washer with lock ring pliersStep 6: Unscrew wheel bearing lock nut, I stuck my screwdriver in one of the holes and it came out fairly easily. There is a special tool for this but it's not required.Step 7: Pull out rotor/hub/wheel bearing assemblyStep 8: Remove the outer wheel bearing from the rotor/hub/wheel bearing assembly and remove the 6 hub bolts holding the rotor and hub together. If the rotor doesn’t want to come out you can drop it on the ground rotor side down and it should pop off.Step 9: Clean the inside of the hub and drive shaft of all old grease then apply a generous amount of new packing greaseStep 10: Pack the outer wheel bearing with greaseStep 11: Bolt the new rotor and hub together with outer bearing insideStep 12: Place the Rotor/Hub/Bearing assembly back on the drive shaft.Step 13: Press the outer wheel bearing in far enough to thread the wheel bearing lock nut and screw it all the way in.Step 14: Torque the wheel bearing lock nut to 70lbs Rotate the rotor 5 times in each direction and loosen the wheel bearing lock nut to 0lbs.Step 15. Line the wheel bearing luck nut’s threaded holes with the grooved sides of the drive shaft. This will make screwing the lock washer in easier.Step 16: Insert the lock washer and secure it with the 2 small screws.Step 17: Place the hub cap on and tap it all the way in with a rubber malletStep 18: Place the new brake pads in the caliper bracketStep 19: Place the caliper bracket with pads over the rotor and secure it with the 2 caliper bracket boltsStep 20: Compress brake pistons with brake compressor, make sure they’re flush with the caliper as you’ll need all the space you can get.Step 21: place the brake caliper over the brake caliper bracket/brake pads and secure with the 2 caliper bolts, make sure the 2 small dust covers have the flat sides on the top and bottom. The flat sides prevent the dust covers from rotating and wearing down.Step 22: Bolt the wheel back onStep 23: Proceed to the other side.

When doing the right (passenger side) it’s much easier to get to the caliper bolts and caliper bracket bolts if you turn your wheels to the left and vice versa. If you don’t, chances are you wont get your impact wrench positioned correctly and will strip the bolts. It also helps to rotate the rotor before removing the caliper. This will break it and the pads free and make for an easier removal. It’s also a good idea to bleed your brake lines and replace with new fluid. I think there’s a kit you can buy that has a reservoir for the old fluid, my buddy told me that it’s extremely simple to use. I’ll probably be doing that in the next couple of weeks.

If you have any questions are corrections please post. Below are a few pics of the install.











































Billy
Modified by Empty V at 3:17 PM 10/16/2009

[ganesh21]

Thank you for the write up. I will be changing the brake pad and rotor on 99.5 and 01 pathfinder.

Can you link where you pick up the brake pad and rotor.

How does it perform?

[Qxxx4]

Great writeup! I love how much how to content weve got lately, it will definately bring in alot of new members and help alot of people out! My brakes are still in great shape but i plan on going with the same setup as you when they are due for a replacement

[naladude911]

Someone sticky this asap

[slickroger]

Awesome How To

will be using this 4 sure but i think im gonna get drilled rotors instead of the slotted

[Empty V]

Thank you for the write up. I will be changing the brake pad and rotor on 99.5 and 01 pathfinder.

Can you link where you pick up the brake pad and rotor.

How does it perform?

The DBA rotors were a special order from a local off road shop that specializes in ?Toyota FJ and Land Cruisers called Man-A-fre but I believe they will ship anywhere: http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts...0.htm Steve @ Man-A-Fre gave me an outstanding price.

I bought the EBC Pads from http://www.autopartswarehouse.com and got the outer wheel bearings off of amazon.com

So far I haven't driven on them hard enough to notice a difference. I'm sure once I get on the road for a longer period of time or off road and they have a chance to heat up I'll see a huge difference. One big bonus with the EBC pads is that they have a "Break-In"surface coating which helps them to operate normally from the first go. It completely eliminates any sort of break in period.

Billy

[Qxxx4]

Awesome How To

will be using this 4 sure but i think im gonna get drilled rotors instead of the slotted

one of the other threads on here someone mentioned the method of drilling the holes causes the rotors to weaken, is that true?

[Empty V]

one of the other threads on here someone mentioned the method of drilling the holes causes the rotors to weaken, is that true?

I've heard that at high temps the lack of material creates a structural instability/weakness. I've also heard that if a small rock gets stuck in one of the holes it can trash your pads which will then trash the rotors. Chances of either of those happening is pretty slim. I just look at what my racing and off road buddies use and the majority stick with slotted. For street driving I doubt that you'll see any temp difference between either style. If I wanted to go for looks I'd get cross dimpled and slotted rotors and I would still stick with DBA.

Billy

[Sir_Belamy]

A few questions from a newbie:

Is it just normal practice to replace the outer bearing at the same time as rotor replacement or was it needed? Isn't there also an inner bearing?

I also read on another post that it was common for the the bolts on the wheel hub to break upon removal. Should I have spares on-hand?

Thanks!

[Empty V]

A few questions from a newbie:

Is it just normal practice to replace the outer bearing at the same time as rotor replacement or was it needed? Isn't there also an inner bearing?

I also read on another post that it was common for the the bolts on the wheel hub to break upon removal. Should I have spares on-hand?

Thanks!

I goofed, I should have mentioned that I replaced the inner bearings last year, so no need to do it this time. I have done 2 rotor replacements on this in the last 2 years. Not because I needed them just wanted to upgrade and haven't had any bolts break. But it can only help to be prepared. Next time I'll be replacing the screws for the lock washer, the heads are somewhat soft and strip easily.

Billy

Billy

[longhornsqx4]

Make a how to for the rears????

[Empty V]

Make a how to for the rears????

From what I understand replacing the shoes is a lot more steps. I'll probably be tackling those in the next few months.

Billy

[Pwnin O'Brien]

Yeah, the rears are MUCH more complicated and the fronts. For the rears you actually have to remove the axle shaft to get to the bearings since it's a fixed axle. It looks like a huge PITA.

EDIT: Sorry, this is to repack the bearings (I'm starting to confuse threads).

[Empty V]

Yeah, the rears are MUCH more complicated and the fronts. For the rears you actually have to remove the axle shaft to get to the bearings since it's a fixed axle. It looks like a huge PITA.

EDIT: Sorry, this is to repack the bearings (I'm starting to confuse threads).

You're right though. I think when it comes to the rear axle everything is more of a PITA. I'm not sure of the procedure but I think you've got to deal with springs and all sorts of junk with the parking brake when it comes to replacing the shoes.

Billy

[longhornsqx4]

ya Id love to know how to do them though, never touched shoes before

[Sir_Belamy]

Thank for your help...and yes I probably would be looking for the rear's at some point as well!

[ianh]

The FSM says to remove the ABS sensor before starting this to prevent damage.I am still on the drivers side, and that one was rusted in pretty bad and that's in Dallas where we don't get rust like up north, but more than NM So did you remove yours ?


Modified by ianh at 8:34 AM 10/12/2009

[Empty V]

The FSM says to remove the ABS sensor before starting this to prevent damage.I am still on the drivers side, and that one was rusted in pretty bad and that's in Dallas where we don't get rust like up north, but more than NM So did you remove yours ?

To be perfectly honest I didn't touch the ABS sensor and haven't had any issues and this is the 2 rotor/pad replacement I've personally done on this vehicle. I'm not sure if I screwed the pooch or not but I seem to be safe. My buddy who's done a few brake jobs on his mustangs doesn't touch his ABS sensors either.

Billy

[sicwitit]

Empty, Good job on the write up....I'm wondering, would you be willing to send me one of the old stock rotors? let me know if you can, and I'll paypal you a some grip for your troubles.

Oh, I just want to add, I HATE CHANGING BRAKE SHOES....I'd rather do an engine swap in an MR2! I'm not joking, I'd much rather do a swap in a car I'm familar with then ever touch another brake shoe...just sayin

[ianh]

Why did you replace the bearings ?Were they damaged?My Outer looks excellent, and the inner that usually has less wear problems has slight marks from the original install at 70 ft lbs, it is smooth and doesn't look to be an issue. 83,000 miles. 2003 4WD

[ianh]

How or what did you use to press the rear hub grease seal in ?ie inner sealnothing i have is big enough 3 1/8 inches !!
Modified by ianh at 7:56 PM 10/13/2009

[sicwitit]

the easy way to tell if you damaged your abs sensor is you would have thrown a code. if that doesnt work, find an empty parking lot, or abandoned street, get up to about 50 MPH, and stand on the brake pedel. you shoud feel it kick in. I've done this exercise many times testing brakes for track events, and this is even taught in performance driving classes...I know because I coached a few.

[Empty V]

Why did you replace the bearings ?Were they damaged?My Outer looks excellent, and the inner that usually has less wear problems has slight marks from the original install at 70 ft lbs, it is smooth and doesn't look to be an issue. 83,000 miles. 2003 4WD

I only changed the outer bearings and I did it because they were cheap. I got them for around $18/ea and when considering the total cost of the job $40 doesn't make that much of a difference. I did not re-pack the inner-bearings but will be taking care of them very soon. I'll post with pics once they're done. As of right now I haven't taken the inner-bearings out so I'm not sure how difficult it is to access them.

Billy

[mda185]

Excellent write up and pictures. I wish this had existed when I did my rotors and brakes a year ago. I would have been much more confident tackling this job with your pictures in hand. I am sure a lot of forum members will benefit from your effort.

I am the member that wrote about the rotor bolts breaking in an earlier post. When I installed my new rotors, a total of 4 rotor bolts sheared off while tightening them with a torque wrench. I have reason to believe the PO had over torqued them but the dealership parts guy told me they replace a lot of these in the shop. I would recommend having some spares before tackling this job unless you live near a very good source of hardened metric bolts. Fortunately, I do. There is an industrial supply house called McMaster Carr and their warehouse is in my hometown. They also have a very good web site and ship promptly. Great source for metric bolts.

[slickroger]

I am the member that wrote about the rotor bolts breaking in an earlier post. When I installed my new rotors, a total of 4 rotor bolts sheared off while tightening them with a torque wrench. I have reason to believe the PO had over torqued them but the dealership parts guy told me they replace a lot of these in the shop. I would recommend having some spares before tackling this job unless you live near a very good source of hardened metric bolts. Fortunately, I do. There is an industrial supply house called McMaster Carr and their warehouse is in my hometown. They also have a very good web site and ship promptly. Great source for metric bolts.

LOL

Metric bolts. thats an american problem

But on the real I just got my rotors and pads but i might wait and put them on when i put my rims back on. I think snow is almost here and the winter Rim debut is coming

[ianh]

I only changed the outer bearings and I did it because they were cheap. I got them for around $18/ea and when considering the total cost of the job $40 doesn't make that much of a difference. I did not re-pack the inner-bearings but will be taking care of them very soon. I'll post with pics once they're done. As of right now I haven't taken the inner-bearings out so I'm not sure how difficult it is to access them.

Billy

The inner bearings are easily accessible, you pop the rear seal out and the bearing falls out.

Putting a new seal back in however is more difficult.

I suggest you add a note about torque-ing the locking plate to 70 ft lbs when a bearing race is replaced. This is to seat the bearing race so the pre-load doesn't go out of adjustment later if the race moves.

I have been searching for a tool for days, finally found some, it really matters on the words used when searching !!!Will try to get from Napa tonight. If successful will post the part number.

Unfortunately one of my axle to spindle needle bearings is lose, will take a look to see how bad it is tonight. NOTE its a 4WD !!!

[Empty V]

LOL

Metric bolts. thats an american problem

But on the real I just got my rotors and pads but i might wait and put them on when i put my rims back on. I think snow is almost here and the winter Rim debut is coming

No it's a US problem, you live in America too my friend!

Billy

[Empty V]

The inner bearings are easily accessible, you pop the rear seal out and the bearing falls out.

Putting a new seal back in however is more difficult.

I suggest you add a note about torque-ing the locking plate to 70 ft lbs when a bearing race is replaced. This is to seat the bearing race so the pre-load doesn't go out of adjustment later if the race moves.

I have been searching for a tool for days, finally found some, it really matters on the words used when searching !!!Will try to get from Napa tonight. If successful will post the part number.

Unfortunately one of my axle to spindle needle bearings is lose, will take a look to see how bad it is tonight. NOTE its a 4WD !!!

Yeah I was asking Nissan if they could sell me the tool and they couldn't even look it up. Pretty lame how the FSM even has the tool part number and no one knows how to get it. I think there's adjustable ones out there but haven't found any as of yet. I thought that the service manual says to torque the bearing lock nut to 70lbs then back it off. If I don't take off this weekend I'll probably pull everything apart and re-pack. Do the inner-bearings use an outter cover?

Billy

[sicwitit]

sooooooo, wanna send me a old stock rotor?

[Empty V]

sooooooo, wanna send me a old stock rotor?

My bad, forgot about that. The old rotors aren't exactly stock, they're Napa OE replacement rotors. If you still want one no sweat, it should be close to identical.

Billy