The DBA rotors were a special order from a local off road shop that specializes in ?Toyota FJ and Land Cruisers called Man-A-fre but I believe they will ship anywhere: http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts...0.htm Steve @ Man-A-Fre gave me an outstanding price.ganesh21 wrote:Thank you for the write up. I will be changing the brake pad and rotor on 99.5 and 01 pathfinder.
Can you link where you pick up the brake pad and rotor.
How does it perform?
one of the other threads on here someone mentioned the method of drilling the holes causes the rotors to weaken, is that true?slickroger wrote:Awesome How To
will be using this 4 sure but i think im gonna get drilled rotors instead of the slotted
I've heard that at high temps the lack of material creates a structural instability/weakness. I've also heard that if a small rock gets stuck in one of the holes it can trash your pads which will then trash the rotors. Chances of either of those happening is pretty slim. I just look at what my racing and off road buddies use and the majority stick with slotted. For street driving I doubt that you'll see any temp difference between either style. If I wanted to go for looks I'd get cross dimpled and slotted rotors and I would still stick with DBA.Qxxx4 wrote:
one of the other threads on here someone mentioned the method of drilling the holes causes the rotors to weaken, is that true?
I goofed, I should have mentioned that I replaced the inner bearings last year, so no need to do it this time. I have done 2 rotor replacements on this in the last 2 years. Not because I needed them just wanted to upgrade and haven't had any bolts break. But it can only help to be prepared. Next time I'll be replacing the screws for the lock washer, the heads are somewhat soft and strip easily.Sir_Belamy wrote:A few questions from a newbie:
Is it just normal practice to replace the outer bearing at the same time as rotor replacement or was it needed? Isn't there also an inner bearing?
I also read on another post that it was common for the the bolts on the wheel hub to break upon removal. Should I have spares on-hand?
From what I understand replacing the shoes is a lot more steps. I'll probably be tackling those in the next few months.longhornsqx4 wrote:Make a how to for the rears????
You're right though. I think when it comes to the rear axle everything is more of a PITA. I'm not sure of the procedure but I think you've got to deal with springs and all sorts of junk with the parking brake when it comes to replacing the shoes.Pwnin O’Brien wrote:Yeah, the rears are MUCH more complicated and the fronts. For the rears you actually have to remove the axle shaft to get to the bearings since it's a fixed axle. It looks like a huge PITA.
EDIT: Sorry, this is to repack the bearings (I'm starting to confuse threads).
To be perfectly honest I didn't touch the ABS sensor and haven't had any issues and this is the 2 rotor/pad replacement I've personally done on this vehicle. I'm not sure if I screwed the pooch or not but I seem to be safe. My buddy who's done a few brake jobs on his mustangs doesn't touch his ABS sensors either.ianh wrote:The FSM says to remove the ABS sensor before starting this to prevent damage.I am still on the drivers side, and that one was rusted in pretty bad and that's in Dallas where we don't get rust like up north, but more than NM So did you remove yours ?
I only changed the outer bearings and I did it because they were cheap. I got them for around $18/ea and when considering the total cost of the job $40 doesn't make that much of a difference. I did not re-pack the inner-bearings but will be taking care of them very soon. I'll post with pics once they're done. As of right now I haven't taken the inner-bearings out so I'm not sure how difficult it is to access them.ianh wrote:Why did you replace the bearings ?Were they damaged?My Outer looks excellent, and the inner that usually has less wear problems has slight marks from the original install at 70 ft lbs, it is smooth and doesn't look to be an issue. 83,000 miles. 2003 4WD
I am the member that wrote about the rotor bolts breaking in an earlier post. When I installed my new rotors, a total of 4 rotor bolts sheared off while tightening them with a torque wrench. I have reason to believe the PO had over torqued them but the dealership parts guy told me they replace a lot of these in the shop. I would recommend having some spares before tackling this job unless you live near a very good source of hardened metric bolts. Fortunately, I do. There is an industrial supply house called McMaster Carr and their warehouse is in my hometown. They also have a very good web site and ship promptly. Great source for metric bolts.
The inner bearings are easily accessible, you pop the rear seal out and the bearing falls out.Empty V wrote:
I only changed the outer bearings and I did it because they were cheap. I got them for around $18/ea and when considering the total cost of the job $40 doesn't make that much of a difference. I did not re-pack the inner-bearings but will be taking care of them very soon. I'll post with pics once they're done. As of right now I haven't taken the inner-bearings out so I'm not sure how difficult it is to access them.
No it's a US problem, you live in America too my friend!slickroger wrote:
Metric bolts. thats an american problem
But on the real I just got my rotors and pads but i might wait and put them on when i put my rims back on. I think snow is almost here and the winter Rim debut is coming
Yeah I was asking Nissan if they could sell me the tool and they couldn't even look it up. Pretty lame how the FSM even has the tool part number and no one knows how to get it. I think there's adjustable ones out there but haven't found any as of yet. I thought that the service manual says to torque the bearing lock nut to 70lbs then back it off. If I don't take off this weekend I'll probably pull everything apart and re-pack. Do the inner-bearings use an outter cover?ianh wrote:
The inner bearings are easily accessible, you pop the rear seal out and the bearing falls out.
Putting a new seal back in however is more difficult.
I suggest you add a note about torque-ing the locking plate to 70 ft lbs when a bearing race is replaced. This is to seat the bearing race so the pre-load doesn't go out of adjustment later if the race moves.
I have been searching for a tool for days, finally found some, it really matters on the words used when searching !!!Will try to get from Napa tonight. If successful will post the part number.
Unfortunately one of my axle to spindle needle bearings is lose, will take a look to see how bad it is tonight. NOTE its a 4WD !!!
My bad, forgot about that. The old rotors aren't exactly stock, they're Napa OE replacement rotors. If you still want one no sweat, it should be close to identical.sicwitit wrote:sooooooo, wanna send me a old stock rotor?