TheBigS_42's SR20DET Swap.

[s13-t]

the bov is a greddy type rs on a 2.5 inch flange clamped to a 3 inch cold pipe. i wound up switching from the bov set up to the recirculation fitting because my car kept dying after a hard boost. MAF cars and stock ecu's dont like BOV's recirculate for now until u get a new ecu tuned for the bov or run a MAP sensor

[TheBigS_42]

Thanks for the speedy reply, I ordered the CXRacing kit so ill be working with the same thing.

The recirc idea sounds great to me, I just have to figure out how it all works :P. Would you be able to elaborate on which parts you got and how you modded it? Is that picture in your sig your recirculation setup?

Thanks again.

[s13-t]

yea the recirc setup in my sig is correct. first u need a bov with a recirculation fitting. i bought the greddy rs for 160 then bought its fitting for like 20. hks ssqv can also be hooked up as a recirc. the bov can be mounted anywhere on the intercooler piping. hooking it up: the recirculation hose goes to the intake, after the MAF but before the turbo. the vacume nipple on the BOV goes to the large nipple on the top of the throttle body. (the nipple on thebottom of the throttle body is unused and needs to be capped off.) the smaller nipple on the top of the throttle body goes to your fuel pressure regulator (FPR) which is located right above it on the fuel rail. your boost gauge also comes from the small nipple on the throttle body so u need to use a "T". your wastgate needs its own boost source, so what i did was drill a hole into my hotpipe directly above the turbo and insert a nipple/bung/outlet whatever. that hooksup directly to the wastgate, your boost controller, if u have one, splices into your wastgate line. the outlet on your cold pipe right before the intake manifold goes to the hose fed through the intake runners. this is very important as withought it the car wont idle. as for mounting the cx intercooler, the mounting brackets i recieved were to confusing to figure out so i made my own and mounted it right below the hood latch. think thats everything any more questions feel free to ask or search. i was in your place 3 months ago and google became my best friend if u need pictures i can get them but not till friday as i just trailord my car 40 miles north to my familys farm to build the motor and wont be out there again until friday. hope this helps

[TheBigS_42]

Thanks, that will be a lot of help when it comes to install.

The only thing I am confused about still is, where did you get the pipe with the flange on it for the BOV? Did you just cut a chunk out of the CX cold pipe and splice in that piece with the silicone couplers then?

[s13-t]

my BOV came with the flange so i cut the cx racing cold pipe towork. then used spectre silicone couplers (from shaucks auto supply) but i had to use two 3"to 2.5" couplers because the ic piping is 3" but the flange it came with was only 2.5". it works for now, i plan on learning to weld in the future. hey dont get frustrated with new silicone couplers. the damb things will pop off for a couple weeks before they are broken in

[TheBigS_42]

Any idea where you found the pipe with the flange on it? Everyone has the bov / the flange piece but not the pipe with the flange on it. Or if anyone else knows, that has me stumped. I found this type of thing: http://www.mimousa.com/home.as...=2420 but thats for the type S.

Also I see you have a CX Rad. Do you have their fans too or what are you using there?

Thanks

[TheBigS_42]

Bump cuz im in a parts ordering mood

[s13-t]

i used to have the stock sohc ka24e radiator so i bought an electrical fan to help with temp issues. then switched it to the aluminum rad. looks nice!!! on a side note, stay away from thermal switches in your rad hose to turn the fan on, just hokke the fan power to any acc in the cabin. i hooked it to my cd player. as fot the flange mine came with the flange/pipe assemply same as the one you linked too. i bought ALL my parts for the swap on ebay. just take your time and wait for the best deal.

[s13-t]

zerothread/357542thought u might be interested in this guys bov

[Neil]

You can ditch that valve/tube assembly, especially if you plan to upgrade the turbo's O2 elbow, as the overwhelming majority of them in the aftermarket don't have a bung to attach that pipe to anyway. Also the device only helps with emissions on trailing throttle, which is a condition that is not even tested for here in the states.

[s13-t]

just be carful with what u plug it up with. its right next to the steering colume shaft thingy...

[TheBigS_42]

funny you should bring up the turbo elbow. last night I decided to try and get that pipe off again, after an hr with a wrench and an hr with a propane torch and looking at it I realized its really not going to come off without some serious effort so I am just going to replace it and get it over with. On the plus side when I took the elbow off, my turbo shaft moves with barely any resistance.

Also thanks for the BOV link S13 I replied to get some pics.

[TheBigS_42]

ps I think I may have found that adapter on ebay. which one looks closer to what you have, they both say greddy works on them but the one looks like it has a bit of a lip on it:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Blow-Off-Va...em122

----

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Greddy-Blow...sting

[s13-t]

mine looks like the first one. mine isnt shiny but looks like the same thing. the second one looks low quality.

[TheBigS_42]

hmm ya I was thinking the same thing. What brand electric fan did you end up getting. CXRacing? In the interest of continuing to save some money I may end up getting their kit as the temperatures where I live up here rarely exceed 30 degrees Celsius in the summer, and well in the winter..... -20 C is a good day :P.

[TheBigS_42]

bump

[s13-t]

well i got my aluminum radiator and the electric fans at two different times. the fan was just off ebay and had alot of good reviews and it was like 16 bucks. but but if u dont have a rad or a fan then get both at the same time

[TheBigS_42]

Im going to give the CXRacing kit a try. I'm up for experimenting with some cheaper parts in hope to save some cash. Also if I keep an eye on my eng temp, if its no good ill replace it later if needed.

Clutch wise im not sure what to do. The shop in town recommended the ACT HDSS kit for about 560 bucks tax in. Im able to spend that money if I have to although I'm wondering if there is an equally good alternative. Anyone got any input on these?

http://cgi.ebay.ca/EXEDY-STAGE...wItem

--

http://cgi.ebay.ca/SPEC-Nissan...wItem
Modified by TheBigS_42 at 9:16 AM 8/10/2008

[TheBigS_42]

I've been reading some threads and it seems people are split between Exedy, ACT and SPEC. Still, any input would be great. I could always try and talk the guy in town 100 bucks down on the ACT HDSS?

[TheBigS_42]

I may just end up going with this:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ACT-HDSS-CL...wItem

It will save me a bit of cash from the one in town and also I'm running a bit short on time so I want to get it done.

[TheBigS_42]

bump! sorry getting anxious and im going away for a few days so I want to make any last minute orders tonight/tomorrow morning.

[TheBigS_42]

ps. what size recirculation fitting did you get s13?

[Neil]

I own an Exedy stage-2 and I wish I had gone for the act street/strip.. The exedy holds a good amount of power once it's engaged but it sure doesn't like being dumped. I have well under the 400hp it's rated for and If I clutch kick to break traction, it slips more often than not. The last time it happened it was pretty bad and now I hear an unpleasant grinding sound and it shudders more than usual when I feather the clutch. I think the ACT (or any brand) organic disk may not last as long as a puck style clutch (prone to glaze) in abusive situations such as in legitimate competition, but for a fun project car, it's my opinion that a puck style clutch isn't worth it if there's an organic disk setup that will hold the power you're shooting for.

I'm still an advocate for Exedy products, but I think they did it wrong when designing the stage-2. I had the stage-1 originally and never ever had any problems. Then I bought a GT2871, and installed the stage-2 because of the turbo, but I did not yet have fuel injectors or management for big power so I was still only running ~10psi and even then the stage-2 was prone to slipping. Now that I do have the extra bits to make big power it's only worse.
Modified by Neil at 7:25 AM 8/11/2008

[TheBigS_42]

Thanks for the reply Neil! I think I've decided now after what you wrote that I'm for sure going with the ACT SS. My goal is to just get the car up and running before school starts up in the fall again. Im really not aiming for much over stock power for now. I wont be tweaking boost for the first while anyways so I think the ACT should hold up more than enough.

Now all I have to sort out is the BOV recirc fittings/piping and gauges.

[s13-t]

think i got the 19 mm...

[Neil]

Setting up recirc is fun

once you know what size fittings you've got to work with, and have a pretty good idea of what length/shape hose you're going to need to connect the two, stop by Napa and ask to look through their catalog of radiator hoses in the appropriate diameter. I needed like a ~120° bend for my setup and sure enough they had a hose in the catalog which had a section that resembled what I thought I needed, and from the looks of it installed you'd think I knew what I was doing

[TheBigS_42]

Thanks guys. So im curious to how this will end up working. Im going to try s13's setup more or less with recirculating off the cold pipe back to after the MAF and play around with that. I've heard if you get it right it should work just fine. Im not sure which size recirc fitting I should order: 19mm, 29mm, 32mm, or 34mm. I've heard you want to use the largest possible to avoid back pressure?

Also n00b question, is the size on these fittings the size of hose they will fit into? And is the size of a hose determined by its outside or inside measured diameter? Thinking of getting it to run fairly straight across the engine bay since Ill have electric fans and therefore just use a piece of silicone flexible hose.

[s13-t]

honestly the size of the fitting wont matter unless u turn up the boost. The stock set up runs BEST on recirc.

[TheBigS_42]

What is a good O2 sensor to run on the MR turbo elbow. I know I need a fat one but does it matter what brand? Will an OEM Nissan one work fine?

ie: http://cgi.ebay.ca/OXYGEN-O2-S...l1247

or can someone flip me the part number or a link to something else if not.

Thanks

[Neil]

haha the description for the O2 sensor in that link is bull****... "Upgrade to this larger O2 sensor for better and more accurate air fuel reading. It helps motor runs better and more efficient." That's completely false. There are no "upgraded" O2 sensors, there are only replacements. If the seller doesn't know what he's talking about, then to eliminate the possibility of getting a wrong part I would suggest picking up a Bosch O2 sensor for a 300ZX Turbo from Autozone. The cable is a lot longer on a 300zx sensor as well which is helpful for having to run a RHD wiring harness on the "wrong" side of the engine bay. The sensor itself is identical to the one used in '93+ S13 Blacktop engines, and is plug-and-play backwards compatible with the "skinny" type sensors that were used on Redtops. The ECU won't see any difference.