TheBigS_42's SR20DET Swap.

[TheAmazingBlaze]

After an hour of using the power washer

Dude belive it or not that oilly shi! saved your car from rusting out.

So yay And good Luck

[TheBigS_42]

After an hour of using the power washer

Dude belive it or not that oilly shi! saved your car from rusting out.

So yay And good Luck

Good to know, and thanks!

[TheBigS_42]

Ok as promised, although much delayed here are some pictures of the progress as of today:

Cheap spray job under the hood, ran out of gloss black on my last coat so it has to get one more but for the cost I have to say im happy with it.

Much better.

Redtop has arrived! Yay!

Front, and only damage really I have found so far, but Im using electrical fans anyways so no biggey, and the pictures showed the broken blade before he shipped it.

Right side

Back

Left

transmission off to examine clutch etc. (ps. thx SupreamS14 for the advice it looks as though it could use a bit of TLC :P)

Flywheel, could use a resurface

Closeup

Closer yet. and wtf bolts?! Hence the reason it hasn't come off yet. What kind of socket is this?

Right closeup with transmission off

Clutch, got some signs of wear

Especially here.

Pressure plate

Turbo elbow, looking for advice here, to replace or not to replace with the rest of the exhaust.

And there you have it, and as usual any and all advice is appreciated, especially in the clutch area as this is my first time dealing with a manual transmission and clutch etc. I think I will pick up a kit with the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and alignment tool. I went to one of the few performance shops in the city today before work and they are going to get back to me with prices and recommendations for parts. I have seen some of their work and I would probably trust them over some of the other shops. I would rather order local instead of online if possible to support local business as well as for warranty ease and what not but ill have to wait and see what their pricing is like.

Thats all for now!

[supreamS14]

Change the front and rear main seals.$13 seals will save you later. Make sure the turbo spins freely with no shaft play and no signs of the blades hitting the housings! Mine would only move if I put like 50 foot pounds of torque on the compressor nut ! I called the suppliers and they told me it would break free after it heats up and oil gets threw it. That might of been true but the 50 ft. pounds made me think other wise so I broke down and bought a new s15 turbo for $600 off Egay. You could do a compression test but I flipped the coin and droped mine in with out doing 1.

Check the bottom of your oil pan for dents(Very bad)!

[positron1]

I had to make a trip AutoZone to get a socket for those flywheel bolts. It's a 14mm Goodwrench part#:33314.

[redtop91]

Yep. Might want to get a breaker bar while you're there. Those SOB's are on tight. Or maybe I'm just weak...

[TheBigS_42]

Thanks guys, ya I think I will pick up a breaker bar while im getting the socket. Also it has had a compression test done on it and it came out good on all four. I will check into the turbo play and once i get it on the engine stand, the oil pan. Is there a reccomended arangement of bolts for attaching it to the stand or just pick any four where the transmission attaches? Also, which type/grade and what not of bolts am I looking for?

[jr_ss]

Those bolts on the flywheel are just 12pt bolts.. No special tool required for them. Make sure you get a trq wrench and trq them to what they are suppose to be otherwise you'll be pulling the trans out to redo it. While you're at it buy new bolts too, I stretched and even snapped on of the old ones when I was reusing it... Change seals like said, anything you can get too. I did front rear, both oil pans, timing cover (only because I did the timing chain in mine when I bought it). Water pump should be replaced as well and while you're at it, if you have the funds, buy a new flywheel and clutch setup to save you the time later on down the road... I'd change the turbo elbow too, I went with the Circuit Sports 1pc turbo elbow and DP. new gaskets all around on the turbo as well, much easier to pull it now, while it's out of the car, then inside, trust me.

[TheBigS_42]

Saw an electric impact wrench on sale for 60 bucks down from 160 so I thought I'd give it a shot. Took the flywheel bolts off with no problem at all. Im going to pick up a torque wrench sometime in the next little while, all the ones at the store had bad review so im going to go elsewhere when I have some time. Anything I should look for in bolts to attach the engine to the stand, (length, grade. etc?)

[Kalypso]

this is exciting,

have you seen positron sr prep thread?it will go well with this.

[redtop91]

Anything I should look for in bolts to attach the engine to the stand, (length, grade. etc?)

I used the transmission bolts.

[TheBigS_42]

I was about to ask if those would work :P. About half of them look like new so I'll maybe give them a shot. Im gonna give a search for that positron thread now and give it a read.

Thanks

[TheBigS_42]

First off, wow positron your pretty hardcore! I wish I had that kind of time, money and knowledge to do such a thorough job. Looks great!

Got the engine on the stand, ended up using the best looking long bolt from the trans and then picking up 3 more like it. Also, time for a few more pictures and some questions:

Is this the HICAS crap PS pump?

I assume I want something more like this if it is?: http://phase2motorsports.store....html

My Car doesn't have air con so that is coming off, any particular things to keep in mind or can I just cut the belt and just start taking off bolts till the pump and the bracket are off? Do I need a pulley puller for the little pulley on the air con loop?

Air con

For the emissions is this bad boy coming off with the pipe?

And what is the best way to get this off? (The bolt that is, the wire is just there from shipping still.)

[TheBigS_42]

Also, Im working on more of a budget than I first realized and all the parts are starting to add up. Since im really not looking for a super high performance car here rather, this is a project where I have already and am learning tons about working on cars. So for that reason im wondering about some cheaper parts that may save me some cash. I've been doing some reading around and a few people have had pretty good experiences with parts from CXRacing. I saw them on ebay and took a look through their site. I can get this kit: http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/me...240SX

for 150 bucks plus shipping off ebay which would save me probably at least 300 bucks over say a greddy kit. Anyone got any input on this as well as any other items that might be cost effective while at the same time long lasting and a good "bang for buck".

Thanks!

[positron1]

For that pump just cut the belts and take the bolts off, you won't need a pulley puller or anything. For emissions, take that stuff off with the pipe coming out of your turbo elbow. If you don't have something to block the elbow off with, I've got something for ya!

[TheBigS_42]

For that pump just cut the belts and take the bolts off, you won't need a pulley puller or anything. For emissions, take that stuff off with the pipe coming out of your turbo elbow. If you don't have something to block the elbow off with, I've got something for ya!

Excellent, I'm busy a few days with work but when I get back Ill go at it. I gave the pipe a quick try with no luck, its seized pretty good. What would you recommend to get it off, is it going to need a torch or is there a simper way? Also I may need to take you up on the blocking plug, only thing is you would have to get it to Canada :P.

p.s. great thread positron im watchin for updates!

also if anyone has input on the CXRacing related post I made a few days ago it would be much appreciated!

[TheBigS_42]

bump, anyone?

[TheBigS_42]

Also, can I use the CXRacing intercooler kit and then just replace the hot pipe with one with a flange/BOV as it appears theirs does not have one?

[redtop91]

That depends on how the lower hotpipe from the intercooler kit lines up. 99% of all lower hotpipes go through the area just in front of the driver fender, by the fusebox. If that kit's lower does that then pretty much any hotpipe will do.

[TheBigS_42]

I think that is the case with this kit so I am looking at this as a good option to save myself a few hundred bucks. Also I've got another noob question. What are the two hose attachment points on the cold side piping? I can only see one in the CXRacing picture but there are two on most other kits, Im assuming it is just hidden? Also can anyone confirm my suspicion about my PS pump? Is that the HICAS one? Does the bracket need to be replaced as well? anything else?

Thanks!

[s13-t]

i have the intercooler kit from cxracing on my 240. works great! i also have their radiator. if u r planning on using the stock ka rad dont! idk how the dohc rad will hold up but i started using the old sohc rad and it kept over heating. but yea cx racing is awsome. greddy is a name!!! yes they have great quality but its a name! unless ur buying a new turbo or maby a rs bov, i would say greddy is way too expensive and u wind up paying for a name. buy the cxracing fmic!!! u will not be dissapointed

[s13-t]

my rad did not and does not have a hole lol it was me being a dumba$$ and not tightening the upper rad hose enough. hadnt changed the sig yet

[TheBigS_42]

i have the intercooler kit from cxracing on my 240. works great! i also have their radiator. if u r planning on using the stock ka rad dont! idk how the dohc rad will hold up but i started using the old sohc rad and it kept over heating. but yea cx racing is awsome. greddy is a name!!! yes they have great quality but its a name! unless ur buying a new turbo or maby a rs bov, i would say greddy is way too expensive and u wind up paying for a name. buy the cxracing fmic!!! u will not be dissapointed

Cool, thanks!

Still confused about my PS Pump/ Bracket now!

[s13-t]

the ps pump looks the same as mine. I hooked mine up and it works great. im actually romoving it because weaving in and out of traffic at 70+ mph with powr steering sucks. way more control with out it. but ya im pretty sure urs is not a hicis pump. hicis pumps are bigger and have an extra outlet that u have to cap off. there is a huge thread about hicas pumps though http://www.240sxforums.com/for...ering hope it helps

[TheBigS_42]

Thanks for the link to the page, though im still not convinced haha. Mine has three hoses going in and out. It has the large one on the back of it so there is the one angled one and the two with the banjo type bolt and hoses comming out the top. Any seconders?

Thanks

going to tear the AC off meanwhile, finally back from work. Also going to give the AIV hose a try but its on there good.

[s13-t]

yea srry bro i looked at my ps pump again, i dont have pictures but it looks different from yours. one of the hoses mounts compleetly different. so im assuming u have hicas. but u can mod it to work. or u can buy a non hicas pump. beu keep in mind that most difters and racers dont have power steering. i recently experianced the lag of power steering and the lack of control at high speeds. so im removing my power steering. actually selling the pump and the bracket and the resivior here, zerothread?id=356297

[TheBigS_42]

Thanks, Im certain it is a HICAS pump now, so im going to start by taking it off. Also, on your FMIC setup in your sig, is that the CX racing cold piping? or what is the deal with the greddy valve on the left side just before the throttle body, did you have to mod the pipe or is it a different one?

Thanks.

[duffman1278]

More than liekly that you'll have to make it so the BOV is on the cold side since most manufactures make theirs sit on the hotpipe.

The motor looks pretty healthy, but just a few things, make sure that you try to clean out as much gunk from like the IACV now while the engine is out and theres much greater access to the bolts. And imo, try to replace as many sensors as possible with brand new ones so it makes it smoother when it comes time to start up.

I havn't read the entire thread, just kinda scimmed through it, but if you're doing the wiring yourself, I would strip the harness down to the bare wires so that you can verify there's no lose, or cut wires. Sometimes there's random broken wires in the harness. GL

[TheBigS_42]

More than liekly that you'll have to make it so the BOV is on the cold side since most manufactures make theirs sit on the hotpipe.

Is that what s13 has done in the picture in his sig? Inserted a piece with a BOV in the middle, or is that a recirc valve? Would it be possible to just replace the kit hotpipe with a different one then with a BOV or does it have to be on the cold side because of how the CXRacing kit is set up. Im reading more about how everything works every day but still am kind of lost on which hoses go where and what they do on the cold and hot pipes.

Also I will look into what you mentioned with the harness and IACV.

Thanks!

[s13-t]

yea its the cold pipe from cx racing. i had to mod it but it works fine. didnt have any room on the hot pipe side. i dont think there are any performance differences between the two set ups.. idk could be wrong. did u get the intercooler set up from cx racing?