TheBigS_42's SR20DET Swap.

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TheBigS_42
Posts: 149
Joined: Sat Jun 28, 2008 8:22 am
Car: 93 240sx Hatch

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First off, thanks for the input!
dc1984 wrote:vacuum is not good for an actuator. surprised nobody on here caught that. u need to get it hooked up to a boost only source, something with no vacuum. this needs to be before the throttle body.this is what i used for my car. tap this fitting into the silicone hose coupler that connects ur turbo to the intercooler pipe and walla!!!
I think I described the way I had it hooked up incorrectly. Please let me know if this is wrong but the way it is now is I have a hose going from the wastegate actuator to a tap on the hot pipe.

As for the intercooler clamps, the ones you see that are poor quality are just those by the blow off valve, there was originally no spot for the BOV there so I cut a chunk of the pipe out so I ran out of T-bolt clamps the intercooler kit came with but the rest are T-bolts. But your right, I should go and get some good ones for there too.
Modified by TheBigS_42 at 11:50 AM 1/29/2010


xavier240
Posts: 35
Joined: Wed Jul 29, 2009 1:52 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan 240sx
Location: Tampa
Contact:

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wow what a long winter.

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OM3GA
Posts: 3041
Joined: Fri Apr 14, 2006 11:41 pm
Car: A Sexy Mobile, 1993 Nissan 240sx 180sx Hatcher

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Oh man, please change that oil pan gasket.

Cool though man we need more build threads.

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TheBigS_42
Posts: 149
Joined: Sat Jun 28, 2008 8:22 am
Car: 93 240sx Hatch

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xavier240 wrote:wow what a long winter.
Haha. I only updated that post I made back in the spring. I actually drove the car all summer and just stored it at end of november.

Next spring is bodywork/paint!
OM3GA wrote:Oh man, please change that oil pan gasket.
Is it necessary to change the oil pan gasket now? It doesn't leak a drop. I was going to do it if I ever got a different oil pan like a greddy one or something.

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homeslicej2
Posts: 5446
Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:46 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX S13 SR'd hatch

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Good job on the DIY. As for paint and body work, what colors are you thinking of?

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Ohio_S13
Posts: 284
Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2006 9:03 am
Car: 1990 R32 GT-R, 1999 Ford F150, 2002 Infiniti G20, 2013 Honda Pilot

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For better balance you should put the battery on the opposite side of the trunk closer to the back of the rear seat. Besides that good build .

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Sleeper_RMS13
Posts: 49
Joined: Sun Oct 25, 2009 12:21 am
Car: 91 FB W/Blacktop SR

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TheBigS_42 wrote:
Is it necessary to change the oil pan gasket now? It doesn't leak a drop. I was going to do it if I ever got a different oil pan like a greddy one or something.
There is no oil pan gasket on an sr. gasket maker/silicone is all you need

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TheBigS_42
Posts: 149
Joined: Sat Jun 28, 2008 8:22 am
Car: 93 240sx Hatch

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MEGA UPDATE! (PART 1) :biggrin:

So its been basically two years since I updated this thread. Epic fail by me. I got stupid busy with school/work/working on the car that I never made the time to post the progress.

Alright, so going back a year, I decided to try and tackle the body work and paint. Being on a budget I decided to employ a method shown to me by a friend who had repainted his MK II Supra with impressive results. The paint to be used would be Rust-Oleum (Tremclad for us Canadians), and it would be applied with foam rollers. The guide for the process came from this Hot Rod magazine article and if you aren't familiar with the process here is the link you might want to check out:

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body ... index.html

I started by gathering all my materials which was relatively close to the list on the site, just with a few changes as recommended by my friend. Having no idea what I was up against, I decided to start by stripping down the car and looking things over. Picture time:

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Back bumper and lights removed. Nothing too shocking thankfully. :)
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Biggest problem area. I knew the car had been in at least one fender bender before but wow did I ever not know what they had covered up with bondo down here. The next few pictures show the extent of the issue as I began to chisel away the mess:
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It went quite a ways up the panel and it was clear when I removed it all that there was a crease all the way up the fender that had been covered up.

Sadly I didn't take as many pictures as I should have but places where the rust had gone all the way through were grinded out and new sheet metal was welded in place. The above area above the left rear wheel arch was the worst of it. Other welding was done on the back hatch as the spoiler was removed to reveal the famous rotting mounts, so the holes were filled in.

Fast forward a week or 2:
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Sanding process well underway.
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One of the pluses to the process is since there is no spraying being done, only a limited amount of taping and covering up had to be done and any spillage or splatter on windows was easily removed with a rag while working. Again fast forward a few weeks (wish I took more pictures of the first few coats) and here is the car after I believe the first 3 coats:
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Coming along nicely.
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Outside on the driveway to do some wetsanding.
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Another look after a wetsanding.
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Some pics of the paint process between and up to the final coat:
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All in all, I think I did 8 coats if my memory serves me correctly. It is an extremely labour intensive process, but the money saved makes it well worth it in my opinion. It gives a relatively smooth finish for the most part (unfortunately I think it was either too hot or the paint wasn't thinned enough when I put down my second last coat and I was left with a little bit of orange peel effect/ripples, but it isn't really that noticeable and for a first effort I don't mind). I don't have an exact total but I think all said and done the body work and paint materials came in around 250 bucks (with a few things being bought in larger quantities than I needed).

I'd better stop here before this post gets too ridiculously big. If anyone wants some more information or I missed some details, just let me know and I'll see what I can do.

COMING UP - Part 2: Polishing, new speakers, seats, gauges and other goodies.


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