*Meet07* 450-500 whp build!! Finally is here!!

[meet07]

Kinda sounds like a sticky/collapsed lifter to me. I had 2 different times over the years when I was convinced I had turded my motor by spinning a bearing, but it was lifters that had gone south.

Thats what im hoping. I removed the lifters in cylinder #6 from the intake and exhaust side and brought them into work with me today(boss is fishing...lol)

I started out my taking them apart and laying them all out on a clean spill pad:


The 300zx lifter breakdown write up that I found...good stuff:


top one has been cleaned vs. the dingy bottom one:


Top lifter has been cleaned vs. the bottom one. No crazy markings where found:


Dirty and cleaned:



The side of the lifters had some imperfections on them but like I said before didnt seem to cause any binding or anything. Hit everything that moved with some scotch brite(made sure there was still oil on all components)


Cleaning makes a big diffrence in appearance:


Finished product after cleaning:



I hit everything with a little bit of oil and scotch brite. EVerything came out clean. I just need to reassemble everything. Ill do that later on today since I am at work. After hitting everything with the red pad I sprayed all components down with break cleaner, hit with some compressed air and layed a nice film of wd-40 over everything in a clean tray with anouther clean spill pad protecting it from dust until I return for reassembly...

hope to put all back together tonight...definelty saturday. May even shoot a video....ehehehehehehe

[Cjmartz2k]

I usually just feel them when they are in the motor. If they squish don real easy by touch, I just replace them. Aren't they the same part number for VG's? Don't quote me on that, but I think so.

[meet07]

I usually just feel them when they are in the motor. If they squish don real easy by touch, I just replace them. Aren't they the same part number for VG's? Don't quote me on that, but I think so.

from what ive been reading on the web...there the same as the vg30de and dett...I fired her up tonight and it seems a little quiter...I also busted my knuckle to the bone. Pretty kool stuff.

[Yellow4g63]

How the hell did you do that.

[Cjmartz2k]

s***, ouch. Stitches?

[Yellow4g63]

He should be fine if just rubs some dirt on it, suck it up and man up lol.

[Cjmartz2k]

Stec Scott actually super glued a gash back together right in front of me one time LOL

[meet07]

s***, ouch. Stitches?

Im not gonna get stitches again! I just taped it up and put neosporin on it.

[meet07]

How the hell did you do that.

I have no clue. I was removing the crank pulley b/c the washer between the crank pulley and crank was rubbing the lower cover. I saw the blood on the floor and lower radiator support. I was like "where is that blood coming from,".

[meet07]

video of the noise. Thought it went way but I was wrong..... Tell me what your guys think.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QIMtLlwI ... rofilepage

[Cjmartz2k]

Sounds like combination exhaust leak and collapsed lifter to me. Try replacing the lifters with new pieces and hunt down that leak.

[Yellow4g63]

X2 doesn't sound like a rod bearing at all "SAFE"

[meet07]

Sounds like combination exhaust leak and collapsed lifter to me. Try replacing the lifters with new pieces and hunt down that leak.

Thats good. What are all the trips of diagnosing a collapsed lifter?? I mean I pressed on the lifters in cylinder 6 with a flat head screw driver and none where sqongy? Then I took them all apart and made sure that the check valves where doing what there suppose to?? I checked them all with a Stethoscope and the sounds is coming from the rear and maybe even cylinder 5 on the exhaust side? What about a bent cam, or valve issue?? Besides this little hickup the car drives fine,idles fine and a/f are great...

and exhaust leak.....hmmm i did instal the egt probe. I drilled and tapped it into runner 6. Ill check for some black soot around the manifold,dp,exhaust area...actually I am missing a gasket between the dp and cat delete now that I think about it...

X2 doesn't sound like a rod bearing at all "SAFE"

Good! I mean the sound is alot louder in person than it is on the video....What should I do...order new lifters??

[Cjmartz2k]

I wouldn't order the lifters just yest, although they are probably cheap as crap and available at auto zone. Find that leak first and try another video (and make sure the fans don't kick on.)

[Cjmartz2k]

BTW, extreme case of rod knock right here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LH9Dk5jp ... r_embedded

It started up after some beating on it and me and my buddy instantly heard the knocking noise. I can't describe it exactly, but I think you know 100% for a fact when you have a spun bearing. Nothing else sounds like it. It was a pretty quiet noise at first, but about 5 miles later on the way home, the engine wouldn't even idle with out my foot on the gas, so we pulled over and took that vid. I had it floored there and the engine wouldn't do more than like 5k rpm. You can hear the turbo going full boogy trying to help push against the internal resistance of the motor, to no avail. Later on a piston/rod decided to make a custom oil drain in the side of the block for me

[meet07]

BTW, extreme case of rod knock right here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LH9Dk5jp ... r_embedded

It started up after some beating on it and me and my buddy instantly heard the knocking noise. I can't describe it exactly, but I think you know 100% for a fact when you have a spun bearing. Nothing else sounds like it. It was a pretty quiet noise at first, but about 5 miles later on the way home, the engine wouldn't even idle with out my foot on the gas, so we pulled over and took that vid. I had it floored there and the engine wouldn't do more than like 5k rpm. You can hear the turbo going full boogy trying to help push against the internal resistance of the motor, to no avail. Later on a piston/rod decided to make a custom oil drain in the side of the block for me

Yeah my junk dont sound that bad...lol. I was wondering...Ive always ran synthetic oil, could it be the fact that im using crappy oil? Throwing stuff out there....

[meet07]

Update: I didnt want to admit it but we all make mistakes and in this case I made a really big one! Thrust ended up getting eat up on the mains :-| I ordered anouther crank to find out that it was shaped like a "W". Filled a claim with paypal and won. Havnt received the refund yet but I will. Since then I have bought and fabbed up my coil bracket for my ls2 truck coils, finished my fuel tank setup with dual walbros intank, bought the new turbo of choice and just waiting on my 0.25 sized bearings. Somehow during breakin number 2 saw detonation so I also had to replace that piston and get that cylinder resleeved...... Maybe I never should have gotten rid of my honda but im sure im not the only one that has had this many issues with a rb.. Hopefully she will back on the road in a month or 2....

[meet07]

I went ahead and used 2 relays for each fuel pump. The secondary pump is wired inline with a hobbs 4psi pressure swicth.


Cleaned up the exhaust ports on the head since the block was gonna be at the machine shop for ever....Main reason for messing with the ports was to remove the hump.






Also cleaned up the casting on the inside of the intake manifold. Didnt take pics of the finished product but its all even:


The port for the coolant was kinda restricted so Iopened it up also:


Bought a new set of wheels. I had some OEM Cobra R wheels that I was gonna use but ran across these with tires for cheap. Cheaper than it would have cost me to buy new tires for the other set of rims...and these tires are new! And the rear tires are killer!



Cobra R wheels that are available:


Added a little flare to the fire wall. Dont know if I should add a little more or if it even serves a purpose but I like it ;-)



And of course the borg warner s366 that Ive been saving up for!




Wall paper status!

[meet07]

Didnt take any pics of the piston with detonation or the cylinder walls but I have pics of the rated R bearings and the crank.......






So pretty much a grand or so wasted :-| We live and learn....leave the reassembling of the blocks to the pros...

[meet07]

And here are a few more shots of my fuel setup. It took about a month of researching to figure out a way to get the power and ground wires into the tank for the second pump without leaks...and I ran across this company that had it all taken care of. The gasket material used for the bulkhead fittings is some of the best gasket material used. We use this stuff on jet fuel and it holds up great! So I decided to grab a piece and make it work. Also had to order some smaller socks for the pump cause the oem ones are to long to fit in that little bowl thingy in the tank:

[danielmcn]

Looks nice. We really need to chill some time.....

[Darius]

The lifters sound normal to me. As long as the ball check valve in each is clean, they will work. I find it hard to believe the mileage that our engines typically have on them will require new lifters. If they truly aren't pumping up, it is likely an oil pressure issue. Or like me, Ferrea cuts your valves too short and you need to add valve stem caps to take up the slack between the valve stem and cam lobe. I digress.

And how does one go about resleeving a cast iron block??

[danielmcn]

And how does one go about resleeving a cast iron block??

http://precisioncycleinc.com/cylinder_b ... -done.html

[Darius]

I am aware of sleeving aluminum blocks but how do they machine out a single cylinder in a cast iron block to resleeve it? I would think sourcing a different block would be cheaper. ($300-500)

[danielmcn]

In the link it says both are done abut the same. Remove sleeves by boring then press new ones in. New block might be cheaper, but new sleeves would be way better then using older ones.

Meet I would not just do one sleeve.

[meet07]

I wanna say that the sleeve by itself was like 40-50 bucks then of coarse the cutting and pressing but it was definetly cheaper than ordering anouther block for 300-350 and then getting every cyinder bored .040 over....

[Darius]

Good to know! I just assumed sleeving would be expensive since I hear of the Honda guys talking about thousands of dollars to get their blocks sleeved.

[meet07]

So I finally got my motor back on monday. Been a crazy week so I didnt even to get my hands on her until like Wednsday....So got it back together and in the car I just have to do some more things like:

-intercooler piping and tial bov welded on
-coil pack plug wires
-dyno tuned
-pluging up harness
-oils
-shifter and other stuff...

Here are a few pics of what ive been up to:

[meet07]

Finished my coil pack plug wires. Kept it simple




question: Is the Permatex grey ultra torque silicone ok to use on things like water pump,oil pump, corners on valve cover gasket, cam seals, etc...... I have always used it on my hondas and it was all I had in the garage. I think it shoud hold up but again the temps under the hood do get hot...?

question: Where should I place the gap on my plugs now that I have the truck coils and access to dwell adjustments? I set all 6 to .040 so far....

[meet07]

This week I will be working on my intercooler piping...that and putting everything back together(which is very close) I need to pick up a 3" 45 degree elbow, and call the local mandrel bender to give him a few dimentions to cut up for me.

Welded my new downpipe flange(for the borg warner S366) onto my old downpipe and I think I did an ok job...



Had to find a boost source and what better place than the compressor housing:


Thanks Irwin:


Man this engine bay is tight.....