*Meet07* 450-500 whp build!! Finally is here!!

[Darius]

Do you have a leakdown test kit? You'll be able to tell right away with that. The timing belt looks right so hopefully it is something simple.

[meet07]

Man I said put it back together and see what happens and she started and idled fine...WTF?!?!?!

It still has that stupid tick...Im gonna go ahead and get the lifters out of my boys vg30dett tomorrow probably and swap them out at some point...

[meet07]

Update: Since I have last been on here alot has went on. Insalled and swapped around some lifters and in the process I broke a since exhaust valve on cylinder #6. Called around and everyone is out of stock on rb exhaust valves and there was a 6 week wait. So I found a used rb25det head from a local shop for $250. Removed the cylinder head and took it to the machine shop to look it over. In the process I noticed some deep indentions on piston #1. Went ahead and replaced that piston while the head was off. Found a lifter that when collapsed would not pop back out. Assuming that wasnt normal since all the other lifters poped out I was sure that the ticking noise was solved. Also while the head was off I took a peek at the cylinder walls on cylinder #6 to see if anything looked abnormal. Cylinder walls looked good. Put everything back together, lifters took about 15 minutes to adjust and what do I hear.....the same noise from the rear. Whats next? I hate to keep tearing this stupid thing apart but I suspect the noise to be in the bottom end some how???

Should I just get anouther bock and start all over?

[Shocker]

Update: Since I have last been on here alot has went on. Insalled and swapped around some lifters and in the process I broke a since exhaust valve on cylinder #6. Called around and everyone is out of stock on rb exhaust valves and there was a 6 week wait. So I found a used rb25det head from a local shop for $250. Removed the cylinder head and took it to the machine shop to look it over. In the process I noticed some deep indentions on piston #1. Went ahead and replaced that piston while the head was off. Found a lifter that when collapsed would not pop back out. Assuming that wasnt normal since all the other lifters poped out I was sure that the ticking noise was solved. Also while the head was off I took a peek at the cylinder walls on cylinder #6 to see if anything looked abnormal. Cylinder walls looked good. Put everything back together, lifters took about 15 minutes to adjust and what do I hear.....the same noise from the rear. Whats next? I hate to keep tearing this stupid thing apart but I suspect the noise to be in the bottom end some how???

Should I just get anouther bock and start all over?

Sucks to hear this... but I had my best luck when I built my own from the ground up..

[RRRRB]

suck you didnt buy my cylinder head i had for sale, it was mint and i know for a fact it was quiet, and worked properly..


Does it sound like its coming from intake or exhuast?

ever try running it without valve covers on?

Id try running a feeler gauge in there and make sure all the static clearances are the same

are you absoulutly sure the pistons are installed correctly... there is a spot cut out on the skirts for oil squirter clearance.. maybe thats hitting?

[meet07]

all the piston where installed correctly. The indented dot on each piston are all pointing towards the crank pulley. I file fitted the rings to meet Wiseco's High-Performance street/strip specs which are top ring .0050 and 2nd ring .0055 I tryed putting a feeler gauge in between each lifter and cam the last time the covers where off and there was no way I could fit a feeler gauge. I can check again but the noise is in he same place and Ive bleed and reinsalled the lifters. None where put back in the same place... I hear it more so on the exhaust side but could possible be both. I just know its coming from cylinder number 6. Im working on getting one of the guys from the machine shop to stop by and take a listen. That wont be until next week...

[RRRRB]

Those specs are to be used as a multiplier of bore size, you know that right?

so your top ring should be gapped at around .017-.018 depending on bore size..

if your top ring gap is .005 your in trouble

[Shocker]

Those specs are to be used as a multiplier of bore size, you know that right?

so your top ring should be gapped at around .017-.018 depending on bore size..

if your top ring gap is .005 your in trouble

Big trouble, my last motor I smoked my gap was 0.013-0.014 and my rings butted.. it just toasts the walls, and piston as it runs.... My current build is at 0.021, I pulled the pan this winter and checked the bearings.. hone marks still on all the cylinders as well.

I hope the damage isn't too bad meet.

[meet07]

lol...yeah its been a few months but yeah I did the calculations. I wrote it all down on one of those wiseco sheets that gives the equation. Yeah like I said the cylinder walls look great. No glazing or scuffing.....

[meet07]

I had the guy at the machine shop that put my block together to come over to my house and take a listen. He said the noise was the lifters and that the bottom end sounds good. He recommended some stuff for noisy lifters that Liqui Moly makes. Bought 2 cans, poured it in and it was a little quiter but still not to my liking. So since this noise has been heard in the same spot (cylinder 6) and no matter how many times Ive bleed the lifters, cleaned and mixed around the noise isnt the lifters. So what else in the valve train would probably make that tapping noise? What about the valve springs....Are the exhaust and intake springs the same? Could the retainer be up side down? Could one or 2 springs have a crack in them that is hard to see with the naked eye....Im ready to fix this and ride!!