Majestic Motorsports tune it. I have seen nothing but good from these guys so I figured I would give them a shot. They quoted me $100 bucks an hour on the dyno...mixeds14 wrote:That sucks, fuel pumps I mean. Was wondering were u taking it to get it dynoed at? N how much they charging u if u don't mined me asking..
I apprecate it man. I am pretty proud of myself and Im hoping that this will be the begining of more fabrication to come.DLeeTT wrote:Good looking build. I like ur fab work. I plan on building a custom radiator support as well using round steel tubing. Prob won't turn out as good as urs lol.








Yeah that look like the one that I have. I bought it from a guy on Craigslist. He use to do some dirt track racing and some ATV racing and had this stuff for cheap..ncturbospecv wrote:Awesome setup! If you dont mind me asking, what kind of catch can are you running? Is it this one from moroso?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-85465/?rtype=10
Thankscrazydriver wrote:Nice work, looks great!
This last go around I didnt take them apart. I did that last time but I had them submerged in a pan full of oil, but did not stick a paper clip in any of the lifters....?Carl H wrote:when you reassembled the lifters did you bleed them in oil with a paperclip?
if you didnt then there is air trapped in there that wont come out with out extended engine operation.
z32 lifters are identical and will drop in the head, but be assured even new lifters collapse.
mine like to tick for a bit till engine warms up.
Never heard of thise but it sounds like a great idea. I kinda wanna get the lifters from my freinds vg30dett but Ill at least try this with mine and see if there rock hard afterwards..Im a little beat. Ive been working on my car and a freinds car al weekend and havnt even have time to rest. Installed my old injectors into y buddies 300zxtt. Apparently the 10% ethanol that they are now putting in the fuel these days are destroying the injectors in the 1st gen of the 300zx TT's. Had to instal some adapter kit,wiring and a bunch of dremeling.... Im beat!Carl H wrote:gotta manually bleed them else air gets trapped.
easy enough to do just submerge in oil and put a paper clip or a thing jewelers screwdriver down the center hole and push up and down till no air comes out.
And Im using the LSx? coil packs from a silverado,tahoe,gmc truck with the intergrated heat sinks...crazydriver wrote:Change the lifters, i bet on it.What ign coils do you use?Sorry for my bad english.
Question: What does a collapse lifter look like? All that where bleed couldnt be compressed after assembling. And the FSM says the instal the lifter back into the head and push down on the head of the lifter. If it moves more than 1mm then its a bad lifter. Does that mean a collapsed lifter is soft, can be compressd and spongy?Carl H wrote:gotta manually bleed them else air gets trapped.
easy enough to do just submerge in oil and put a paper clip or a thing jewelers screwdriver down the center hole and push up and down till no air comes out.
Thats what I did last nite with both lifters in cylinders 3-6 and only one had a little air in it. I seperated the head of the lifter from the lower check valved section, submerged and put a paper clip in the center while pushing the lifter assembly up and down like I was pumping it. Then I compressed it completly submerged in oil and watched the little bubbles float to the top. Now out of the 6 lifters I bleed only one had air in it but the sound near the rear on the intake side sounds like all them lifters where shoot. Can one unbleed lifter make all that noise...julio wrote:+1 on the paperclip method. Just do it submerged in the oil until air stops coming out of it and the plunger is difficult to move.





That video was before bleeding. I think I took that video this past saturday. Yeah I only did a few on the intake side. I had to go in and get ready for the next day but Ill be doing the rest tonight but I just hate to go through all this and it stll tick..julio wrote:Was that video before or after the lifter bleeding? Also, did you do you the intake side only? I would bleed all the lifters for good measure/check for operability.
Well, if you bleed them correctly and they don't feel collapsed, the ticking shouldn't be from the lifters (as long as they are getting plenty of oil during engine operation). Either way, don't feel like you are wasting your time bleeding them as its good practice even though it sucks having to breakdown the front and top of the engine just to do so. And just remember, let the engine run for a while before you make any judgement calls. My VG30DE had lifter tick for 20min after first startup (I bleed mine too).meet07 wrote:That video was before bleeding. I think I took that video this past saturday. Yeah I only did a few on the intake side. I had to go in and get ready for the next day but Ill be doing the rest tonight but I just hate to go through all this and it stll tick..julio wrote:Was that video before or after the lifter bleeding? Also, did you do you the intake side only? I would bleed all the lifters for good measure/check for operability.
Im going to get the lifters from my buddies house this friday if they still tck but the engine since I bought it has no more than like 80,000 miles on it..
Yeah that's what I mean. I don't want to risk snapping a cam just to get the cam gear dowels lined up at 15 degrees per the FSM. It takes long enough to tighten those stupid things down as it is.meet07 wrote:Its always hard to get the knock pins in the exact locations. After bolting down both cams I had to make maybe a 15 degree rotaton at most on the intake cam ccw and a ccw rotation on the exhaust cam?
It was hard to start. I had to have the TB wide open. She sounded like the timing was way off which could have been the reason she backfired the other nite after the lifters where bleed.....?
I dont think that is too much? Or is it..... *frustration*
Yeah I got the timing belt right:Darius wrote:Yeah that's what I mean. I don't want to risk snapping a cam just to get the cam gear dowels lined up at 15 degrees per the FSM. It takes long enough to tighten those stupid things down as it is.meet07 wrote:Its always hard to get the knock pins in the exact locations. After bolting down both cams I had to make maybe a 15 degree rotaton at most on the intake cam ccw and a ccw rotation on the exhaust cam?
It was hard to start. I had to have the TB wide open. She sounded like the timing was way off which could have been the reason she backfired the other nite after the lifters where bleed.....?
I dont think that is too much? Or is it..... *frustration*
Are you sure you installed the timing belt correctly and that it didn't slip a tooth or two? Dumb question, I know, but the ignition timing shouldn't affect its startability that dramatically.


