*Meet07* 450-500 whp build!! Finally is here!!

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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meet07
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I guess Im gonna have to get 2 new fuel pumps. I tryed to fire her up tonight and realized I wasnt hearing any noise from the fuel pumps. Checked the power and gound and both where good. Removed the pumps and added power and ground straight from the battery to find out that both of my pumps are not working....!!??

I tested both pumps last month to make sure they both at least flowed that same amount of fluid from one bucket to the next. Well that fluid was water. My pumps have been sitting in the garage. Its been pretty cold at nites and Im thinking that the condesation may have seized the internals.....So my bad....

Im needing to replace both pumps. I would lke to keep the same setup that I have now with 2 intank pumps.. What do you guys think about the new Aeromotive Stealth pump...It flows better than the walbros right? That and its the same size, power plug size and all??

The bright side I made my appointment to get her tuned!!


mixeds14
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That sucks, fuel pumps I mean. Was wondering were u taking it to get it dynoed at? N how much they charging u if u don't mined me asking..

DLeeTT
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Good looking build. I like ur fab work. I plan on building a custom radiator support as well using round steel tubing. Prob won't turn out as good as urs lol.

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meet07
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mixeds14 wrote:That sucks, fuel pumps I mean. Was wondering were u taking it to get it dynoed at? N how much they charging u if u don't mined me asking..
Majestic Motorsports tune it. I have seen nothing but good from these guys so I figured I would give them a shot. They quoted me $100 bucks an hour on the dyno...
DLeeTT wrote:Good looking build. I like ur fab work. I plan on building a custom radiator support as well using round steel tubing. Prob won't turn out as good as urs lol.
I apprecate it man. I am pretty proud of myself and Im hoping that this will be the begining of more fabrication to come.

Yeah It just set me back about $345 bucks but I went ahead and bought the aeromotive stealth pump...I wouldnt have felt right buying 2 more Walbro pumps when I had a choice to upgrade..

Starter her up tonight! Had a hard time geting her to idle but a Freind of mine came over and helped me out. 20 year old kid that pretty much knows his $%!#. I was worried that the 1000cc might e to much for Nistune to handle but it idled like new after a few tweaks of the injector latency and K Constant. Need to bleed the brakes and powersteering pump....

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meet07
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I so a few photos after backing her out of the garage and cruising up and down the street a few times...

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Im still having that same ticking noise near cylinders 5 and 6? .....Need to get this think tunable for this coming friday. Any Ideas?

This is just the start up video..The ticking was kinda hard to hear in this video but Ill be uploading anouther her shortly...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxixHjCG ... ature=plcp

ncturbospecv
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Awesome setup! If you dont mind me asking, what kind of catch can are you running? Is it this one from moroso?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-85465/?rtype=10

crazydriver
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Nice work, looks great! ;)

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meet07
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ncturbospecv wrote:Awesome setup! If you dont mind me asking, what kind of catch can are you running? Is it this one from moroso?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-85465/?rtype=10
Yeah that look like the one that I have. I bought it from a guy on Craigslist. He use to do some dirt track racing and some ATV racing and had this stuff for cheap..
crazydriver wrote:Nice work, looks great! ;)
Thanks

My build looks nice but Im having the same issues that I had last time she was running. There is a loud ticking noise coming from cylinders 6, 5 and possibly 4 that sounds like some faulty lifters but Im not for sure. I mean I listened to them with a *stephescope* It seemsto be quite when the engine is cold but when she warms up the ticking noise is really loud. And it increases with the revs.

My freind has a vg30dett with a hole in the block. Im thinking about just getting them and slapping them in this week but I would hate to go through all that trouble and still have this ticking noise. I know Darius had a problem with this and Im affraid I may have the same issue. Only thing done to the head as a mild port job by myself and the 5 angle valve job...

Any input? I dont know how to check the lash on these lifters and Ive cleaned and reassembled those lifters already?

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Carl H
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when you reassembled the lifters did you bleed them in oil with a paperclip?
if you didnt then there is air trapped in there that wont come out with out extended engine operation.

z32 lifters are identical and will drop in the head, but be assured even new lifters collapse.
mine like to tick for a bit till engine warms up.

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meet07
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Carl H wrote:when you reassembled the lifters did you bleed them in oil with a paperclip?
if you didnt then there is air trapped in there that wont come out with out extended engine operation.

z32 lifters are identical and will drop in the head, but be assured even new lifters collapse.
mine like to tick for a bit till engine warms up.
This last go around I didnt take them apart. I did that last time but I had them submerged in a pan full of oil, but did not stick a paper clip in any of the lifters....?

crazydriver
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Change the lifters, i bet on it.What ign coils do you use?Sorry for my bad english.

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Carl H
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gotta manually bleed them else air gets trapped.
easy enough to do just submerge in oil and put a paper clip or a thing jewelers screwdriver down the center hole and push up and down till no air comes out.

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meet07
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Carl H wrote:gotta manually bleed them else air gets trapped.
easy enough to do just submerge in oil and put a paper clip or a thing jewelers screwdriver down the center hole and push up and down till no air comes out.
Never heard of thise but it sounds like a great idea. I kinda wanna get the lifters from my freinds vg30dett but Ill at least try this with mine and see if there rock hard afterwards..Im a little beat. Ive been working on my car and a freinds car al weekend and havnt even have time to rest. Installed my old injectors into y buddies 300zxtt. Apparently the 10% ethanol that they are now putting in the fuel these days are destroying the injectors in the 1st gen of the 300zx TT's. Had to instal some adapter kit,wiring and a bunch of dremeling.... Im beat!
crazydriver wrote:Change the lifters, i bet on it.What ign coils do you use?Sorry for my bad english.
And Im using the LSx? coil packs from a silverado,tahoe,gmc truck with the intergrated heat sinks...

julio
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+1 on the paperclip method. Just do it submerged in the oil until air stops coming out of it and the plunger is difficult to move.

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meet07
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Carl H wrote:gotta manually bleed them else air gets trapped.
easy enough to do just submerge in oil and put a paper clip or a thing jewelers screwdriver down the center hole and push up and down till no air comes out.
Question: What does a collapse lifter look like? All that where bleed couldnt be compressed after assembling. And the FSM says the instal the lifter back into the head and push down on the head of the lifter. If it moves more than 1mm then its a bad lifter. Does that mean a collapsed lifter is soft, can be compressd and spongy?
julio wrote:+1 on the paperclip method. Just do it submerged in the oil until air stops coming out of it and the plunger is difficult to move.
Thats what I did last nite with both lifters in cylinders 3-6 and only one had a little air in it. I seperated the head of the lifter from the lower check valved section, submerged and put a paper clip in the center while pushing the lifter assembly up and down like I was pumping it. Then I compressed it completly submerged in oil and watched the little bubbles float to the top. Now out of the 6 lifters I bleed only one had air in it but the sound near the rear on the intake side sounds like all them lifters where shoot. Can one unbleed lifter make all that noise...

Here is thevideo:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_7l3NhV ... TpKYk_6HA2

Here are a few break down pics. Nothing looked like it was strange?
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I can take some pics of the lifters. The all seem to have that glazed, scuffing look on the side of them but nothing like deep scrathes or anything.
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julio
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Was that video before or after the lifter bleeding? Also, did you do you the intake side only? I would bleed all the lifters for good measure/check for operability.

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meet07
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julio wrote:Was that video before or after the lifter bleeding? Also, did you do you the intake side only? I would bleed all the lifters for good measure/check for operability.
That video was before bleeding. I think I took that video this past saturday. Yeah I only did a few on the intake side. I had to go in and get ready for the next day but Ill be doing the rest tonight but I just hate to go through all this and it stll tick..

Im going to get the lifters from my buddies house this friday if they still tck but the engine since I bought it has no more than like 80,000 miles on it..

julio
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meet07 wrote:
julio wrote:Was that video before or after the lifter bleeding? Also, did you do you the intake side only? I would bleed all the lifters for good measure/check for operability.
That video was before bleeding. I think I took that video this past saturday. Yeah I only did a few on the intake side. I had to go in and get ready for the next day but Ill be doing the rest tonight but I just hate to go through all this and it stll tick..

Im going to get the lifters from my buddies house this friday if they still tck but the engine since I bought it has no more than like 80,000 miles on it..
Well, if you bleed them correctly and they don't feel collapsed, the ticking shouldn't be from the lifters (as long as they are getting plenty of oil during engine operation). Either way, don't feel like you are wasting your time bleeding them as its good practice even though it sucks having to breakdown the front and top of the engine just to do so. And just remember, let the engine run for a while before you make any judgement calls. My VG30DE had lifter tick for 20min after first startup (I bleed mine too).

Keep your head up and get that thing dyno'd!

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meet07
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I hope its just that lifter...But if it isnt Im gonna selll this peice of junk. Ive spent to much money in this and Its probably a sign to give it up...he noise sounds realy bad in person and can be heard over the exhaust while cruising down the road. It started the last time I rebuilt the engine and the head got a 5 angle valve job and valve stem seals installed.....

RRRRB
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no reason to give up, there has to be logical reason for the noise.. sometimes its just not right in front of you... oil restrictors clogged? or any oil galley have debris in it from machine work etc... it could be something very stupid like that as well

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meet07
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I spent about 2 hours + seperating and bleeding all lifters. Just about all the lifters on the intake side had air in them except a few. The exhaust side really wasnt that bad(maybe 1-2) Could not get her started to save my life tonight for what ever reason. After a loud backfire and fouled out spark plugs I have decided to call it a nite.. Ill order some plugs tomorrow and try it again...Hope everything works out.

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meet07
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Is it possible to install the cams ike 180 degrees off?

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Carl H
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it is possible...might have had the wrong tdc.
seen it a few times, this last kid had taken the vtc sprocket off and didnt pay attention to how it came off and put it on backwards so the timing marks were 180* out.

Darius
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Nope you'd really have to screw up your timing belt installation. Pop the valve covers to see if any of the lifters are riding at a different height than any of the others. Hopefully you didn't install the cams with the engine at TDC like I made the mistake of doing once. :frown:

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meet07
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I thought thats how you line the cams up by making sure its at TDC? I mean Ive done it before......?

Darius
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I find it difficult to get the cams to set on the lifters at the exact angle the fsm requires while installing them so I put the pistons at TDC then turn the crank back to recess them into the bores so it is impossible for valves to touch pistons. Then, I align the cam gears with the rear timing cover and then rotate the crank CW to TDC and install the belt.

When I finished my second reassembly, I broke a valve installing the cams with the pistons at TDC and had to pull the whole thing apart. I had done it successfully before but I dummy-proof it now to be safe :D

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Carl H
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it helps to align the knock pins as described in the manual when installing cams, havent had a problem yet.

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meet07
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Its always hard to get the knock pins in the exact locations. After bolting down both cams I had to make maybe a 15 degree rotaton at most on the intake cam ccw and a ccw rotation on the exhaust cam?

It was hard to start. I had to have the TB wide open. She sounded like the timing was way off which could have been the reason she backfired the other nite after the lifters where bleed.....?

I dont think that is too much? Or is it..... *frustration*

Darius
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meet07 wrote:Its always hard to get the knock pins in the exact locations. After bolting down both cams I had to make maybe a 15 degree rotaton at most on the intake cam ccw and a ccw rotation on the exhaust cam?

It was hard to start. I had to have the TB wide open. She sounded like the timing was way off which could have been the reason she backfired the other nite after the lifters where bleed.....?

I dont think that is too much? Or is it..... *frustration*
Yeah that's what I mean. I don't want to risk snapping a cam just to get the cam gear dowels lined up at 15 degrees per the FSM. It takes long enough to tighten those stupid things down as it is.

Are you sure you installed the timing belt correctly and that it didn't slip a tooth or two? Dumb question, I know, but the ignition timing shouldn't affect its startability that dramatically.

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meet07
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Darius wrote:
meet07 wrote:Its always hard to get the knock pins in the exact locations. After bolting down both cams I had to make maybe a 15 degree rotaton at most on the intake cam ccw and a ccw rotation on the exhaust cam?

It was hard to start. I had to have the TB wide open. She sounded like the timing was way off which could have been the reason she backfired the other nite after the lifters where bleed.....?

I dont think that is too much? Or is it..... *frustration*
Yeah that's what I mean. I don't want to risk snapping a cam just to get the cam gear dowels lined up at 15 degrees per the FSM. It takes long enough to tighten those stupid things down as it is.

Are you sure you installed the timing belt correctly and that it didn't slip a tooth or two? Dumb question, I know, but the ignition timing shouldn't affect its startability that dramatically.
Yeah I got the timing belt right:
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What if a valve is bent....How do I go about checking it? I pressureized cylinders 1 and 6 at TDC. Didnt hear much out of cylinder 1 but 6 was maing a bunch of hissing like the 40-60 psi was going somewhere. Didnt feel the air through the dipstick,exhaust manifold or the coolant hoses.....


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