KRAZY AUDIO INSTALL... KOMING SOON!!!!!!

All things Altima Coupe.
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headhunt3r
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Car: Altima Coupe 2.5S w/ CVT
Location: Vancouver BC

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Wow very nice.

Audio's one thing on my long-term to do list for my coupe as well... as soon as I do more work terms in school. Biggest roadblock for me is probably $$$, I think i'm something like 25G's+ in the hole right now thanks to university haha.

I noticed you said you plan to replace your battery with a Batcap. Is there a reason why you choose that over say... an Optima Yellowtop? I've heard nothing but amazing things for those batteries.


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rjdmmfl1
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headhunt3r wrote:Wow very nice.

Audio's one thing on my long-term to do list for my coupe as well... as soon as I do more work terms in school. Biggest roadblock for me is probably $$$, I think i'm something like 25G's+ in the hole right now thanks to university haha.

I noticed you said you plan to replace your battery with a Batcap. Is there a reason why you choose that over say... an Optima Yellowtop? I've heard nothing but amazing things for those batteries.
No, I'm gonna replace my factory battery with a kinetic battery, but I'm adding the batcap to the system (its like a 40 farad capacitor)

I had an optima yellow Top in my old car, back when they were worth something, but now THEY ARE ALL GARBAGE!!!!

Someone new took over the company, and their quality literally went to **** overnight. Now, most of the ones they sell new are actually recycled, there have been a lot of complaints about internal battery packs failing, etc, etc.

DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON NEW OPTIMAS!!!!

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notaverage
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Car: Altima Coupe 3.5 SE w/ tech pkg and VDC. Precision Grey

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rjdmmfl1 wrote:Yes, you guys were right... thanks for keeping a lid on the secret... here goes the final shots...


Is it just me, or does the tailight overlay seem like its coming off in this picture?

BTW, nice setup

Too rich for my blood tho

the727kid
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Joined: Mon May 19, 2008 7:39 am

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Very clean install, but there are a few things bugging me lol

First off, I can't tell from the angles but it looks like the ports are not placed properly. As a rule of thumb the port should be it's diamter away from the end of the box. (3" port should be 3" from the back of box). Again I can't tell from pics so it might be good.

Secondly why the caps? They do almost nothing for a system, the big 3 + a rear battery would of been much cheaper and yield much better results.

And the optimas, well I know people that run them with no problems. I use a redtop as my starting battery, never had an issue. Of course now Kinetik is my battery of choice, I have never had one let me down, and they have done nothing but amaze me.

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rjdmmfl1
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the727kid wrote:Very clean install, but there are a few things bugging me lol

First off, I can't tell from the angles but it looks like the ports are not placed properly. As a rule of thumb the port should be it's diamter away from the end of the box. (3" port should be 3" from the back of box). Again I can't tell from pics so it might be good.

Secondly why the caps? They do almost nothing for a system, the big 3 + a rear battery would of been much cheaper and yield much better results.

And the optimas, well I know people that run them with no problems. I use a redtop as my starting battery, never had an issue. Of course now Kinetik is my battery of choice, I have never had one let me down, and they have done nothing but amaze me.
Trust me, the ports are exactly where they are supposed to be. This audio system wasn't designed by some rookie building boxes for the first time. We had seperate specialists for each aspect of the job.. and the Box was built not built to the specs of the booklet, but to specfic specs for max SPL designed by the head technician at Rockford Fosgate! If you look on page 2 of this thread, you'll see the port lengths and distance from the rear of the box

Its not that the caps do nothing for this system, its just that it could use more help. THis system is just under or just around 2000 watts RMS , with each 1 Farad of capacitance being good for about 1000 watts RMS, but most folks nowadays in SOCAL are moving away from doing a full second battery, and going with something like the BATCAP, which is basically a small battery that discharges like a capacitor. As I mentioned, we will be adding a batcap before Extreme Autofest. Also, the Caps add an aesthetic look and balance to the appearance of the amp rack that I was going for

Regarding the Optimas, I keep pretty much up to date with these things, and the word amongst everyone in the know is that Optima quality has gone to $hit!!!! They use to be very good batteries, but again, with the takeover, its just not the same. (Just like the speaker companies MB Quartz and Hifonics!)Your friends may be runniing older optima yellow tops, as in ones that were produced a few years ago, and those were bassa$$ batteries, but not anymore

Here's just one of many links you'll find about folks complaining about the new Optima Yellowtops!

http://answers.yahoo.com/quest...hefSH


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rjdmmfl1
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notaverage wrote:
Is it just me, or does the tailight overlay seem like its coming off in this picture?

BTW, nice setup

Too rich for my blood tho
I have no idea what you're talking about.. if you're taling about the left (driver's) side taillight overlay, what you see is a light glare!

the727kid
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Joined: Mon May 19, 2008 7:39 am

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rjdmmfl1 wrote:
Trust me, the ports are exactly where they are supposed to be. This audio system wasn't designed by some rookie building boxes for the first time. We had seperate specialists for each aspect of the job.. and the Box was built not built to the specs of the booklet, but to specfic specs for max SPL designed by the head technician at Rockford Fosgate! If you look on page 2 of this thread, you'll see the port lengths and distance from the rear of the box

Its not that the caps do nothing for this system, its just that it could use more help. THis system is just under or just around 2000 watts RMS , with each 1 Farad of capacitance being good for about 1000 watts RMS, but most folks nowadays in SOCAL are moving away from doing a full second battery, and going with something like the BATCAP, which is basically a small battery that discharges like a capacitor. As I mentioned, we will be adding a batcap before Extreme Autofest. Also, the Caps add an aesthetic look and balance to the appearance of the amp rack that I was going for

Regarding the Optimas, I keep pretty much up to date with these things, and the word amongst everyone in the know is that Optima quality has gone to $hit!!!! They use to be very good batteries, but again, with the takeover, its just not the same. (Just like the speaker companies MB Quartz and Hifonics!)Your friends may be runniing older optima yellow tops, as in ones that were produced a few years ago, and those were bassa$$ batteries, but not anymore

Here's just one of many links you'll find about folks complaining about the new Optima Yellowtops!

http://answers.yahoo.com/quest...hefSH
Head technician... now thats knowing some people lol! Happen to know what it is tuned to? Curious because you said it was designed for max spl, well that would be a high tuning, which rarley sound good in cars (no lows).

I still never got the point of putting anything in a car that discharges, but each their own. I can understand from a visual standpoint, as it looks real good But anything that discharges, why use it? A Kinetik 600 is very small and has the power of 600 1 Farad Caps, and probally cost the same as one cap, and it stays charged, so your electrical is always ready for that nasty low note.

As for the Optimas, well I can't speak for everyone, but I bought mine ~18months ago and not one issue, yet again it is a redtop. Can't go wrong with a 3 year warranty but I really have no room to talk, I only reccomend Kinetik.

Canadian Coupe
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rjdmmfl1 wrote:
I have no idea what you're talking about.. if you're taling about the left (driver's) side taillight overlay, what you see is a light glare!
I think I see what he was saying.

The right overlay in the top left corner looks like it's peelin' up. It's not though... right....... RIGHT? j/k

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rjdmmfl1
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Canadian Coupe wrote:
I think I see what he was saying.

The right overlay in the top left corner looks like it's peelin' up. It's not though... right....... RIGHT? j/k
ohh, I see... no, that's the actual taillight... all of our tail lights curve up right there.. its just that the matte black overlay almost perfectly matches the black of the taillight, especially when installed correctly

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rjdmmfl1
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the727kid wrote:
I still never got the point of putting anything in a car that discharges, but each their own. I can understand from a visual standpoint, as it looks real good But anything that discharges, why use it? A Kinetik 600 is very small and has the power of 600 1 Farad Caps, and probally cost the same as one cap, and it stays charged, so your electrical is always ready for that nasty low note.
OK, ALL batteries and capacitors discharge, its the rate of discharge that matters. A 600 Kinetic is more like 100 1-farad caps, not 600! Also, the kinetic 600 stores and discharges at the same rate as the Xstatic BATCAP that I mentioned earlier (same principle for car audio)...pound for pound, the Kinetik batteries may be superior to the Batcap, but they are also larger... the smallest kinetic is still larger than the Xstatic batcap 400, but the Xstatic is superior in power handling compared to the Kinetik 600, but again, the Kinetic 600 is cheaper. For my setup, I don't need a fraction of the power that either of them provide, so its better to just go with the less expensive one!

In the end, it will make more sense for me to go with the Kinetic 600 for powering the AMPS, and a larger Deep Discharge Kinetic to start the car.

mzinsmeister
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Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2008 6:25 pm
Car: 2008 Nissan Altima Coupe 2.5

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Looks nice you wasted no time getting this done.. btw black suede ftw and to bad I don't have any shops around here that does quality work like that. anyway congrats

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CDUB 42
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Joined: Sun Feb 24, 2008 7:22 am
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I agree. Suede is the way to go. I am glad to see what the whole trunk completely wrapped looks like. I have been meaning to finishing wrapping the rest of mine but with school and final, I havent had time at all.

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papawu
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Car: 2008 Nissan Altima Coupe 2.5S

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rjdmmfl1,

Nice setup.



Wish I had the funds to do something like that.

I believe you need to bump this in your ride.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=BaeNelsAOGo

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rjdmmfl1
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papawu wrote:rjdmmfl1,

Nice setup.



Wish I had the funds to do something like that.

I believe you need to bump this in your ride.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=BaeNelsAOGo
... that $hit gets no play in my ride!!!!

the727kid
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Joined: Mon May 19, 2008 7:39 am

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rjdmmfl1 wrote:
OK, ALL batteries and capacitors discharge, its the rate of discharge that matters. A 600 Kinetic is more like 100 1-farad caps, not 600! Also, the kinetic 600 stores and discharges at the same rate as the Xstatic BATCAP that I mentioned earlier (same principle for car audio)...pound for pound, the Kinetik batteries may be superior to the Batcap, but they are also larger... the smallest kinetic is still larger than the Xstatic batcap 400, but the Xstatic is superior in power handling compared to the Kinetik 600, but again, the Kinetic 600 is cheaper. For my setup, I don't need a fraction of the power that either of them provide, so its better to just go with the less expensive one!

In the end, it will make more sense for me to go with the Kinetic 600 for powering the AMPS, and a larger Deep Discharge Kinetic to start the car.
Batteries and caps act completely different. I'm pretty sure you know what I meant though Don't really want to get into electrical mumbo jumbo so I'll leave it =).

And @ the Boom song.

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rjdmmfl1
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the727kid wrote:
Batteries and caps act completely different. I'm pretty sure you know what I meant though Don't really want to get into electrical mumbo jumbo so I'll leave it =).

And @ the Boom song.
yeah I know what you meant, but even though you and I are familiar with the differences in power staorage and discharge between caps and batteries, a lot of folks that read through these posts aren't, and we don't wanna confuse them!

In any case, I've done the Big Three upgrade, now I just need to replace the factory battery with a Kinetic 1800, and add a kinetic 600 in the trunk, and I'll be good to go!

mzinsmeister
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Good to hear you did the big 3 up, oh and I have a kinetik 1800 under the hood but so you know the posts on it are opposite of what the factory battery posts are. I would install the 1800 under the hood then test it under load with a dmm and if you get 13.8v your good to go. I think since you got the caps that replacing the factory battery would do the job. BTW what size wire did you use on the big 3 upgrade? One more thing.. got any videos I love watching speaker p0rn.. lol

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rjdmmfl1
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mzinsmeister wrote:Good to hear you did the big 3 up, oh and I have a kinetik 1800 under the hood but so you know the posts on it are opposite of what the factory battery posts are. I would install the 1800 under the hood then test it under load with a dmm and if you get 13.8v your good to go. I think since you got the caps that replacing the factory battery would do the job. BTW what size wire did you use on the big 3 upgrade? One more thing.. got any videos I love watching speaker p0rn.. lol
0 Gauge battery to alternator, 0 gauge engine ground to chassis, o gauge battery negative to chassis... all high strand, oxygen free copper cables
Modified by rjdmmfl1 at 12:07 AM 5/21/2008

vi3t89
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hey rob is ur kenwood dnx 8120 bypassed? i just ordered a kenwood ddx 812 pretty much the same but the nav u need buy seperatly can u let me know if it can be bypassed? cuz i cant find anything on it thanks

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rjdmmfl1
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vi3t89 wrote:hey rob is ur kenwood dnx 8120 bypassed? i just ordered a kenwood ddx 812 pretty much the same but the nav u need buy seperatly can u let me know if it can be bypassed? cuz i cant find anything on it thanks
bypass on kenwoods are simple, just ground the parking brake

vi3t89
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thanks

vi3t89
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hate to bug you but could yo go into more detail on how to ground it ? i tried to search around and didnt come up with anythin except ur write up on the avic d3 which i still didnt get

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rjdmmfl1
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vi3t89 wrote:hate to bug you but could yo go into more detail on how to ground it ? i tried to search around and didnt come up with anythin except ur write up on the avic d3 which i still didnt get
do you have the kenwood or the avic d3?

If you have the kenwood, just take the light green wire on your kenwood that attaches to the parking brake, and splice that into the black wire on the kenwood harness that will be grounded, that's it. The ground wire is just connected to any piece of metal on your car!

vi3t89
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the kenwood , thanks if i run into any problems ill let u know but it seems pretty straight forward lols

vi3t89
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could i put a switch on the relay? my friends dad is helpin me install the deck and he told me itd b better if he put a switch on the relay?

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rjdmmfl1
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vi3t89 wrote:could i put a switch on the relay? my friends dad is helpin me install the deck and he told me itd b better if he put a switch on the relay?
switch on the relay??? i'm not sure what you mean. OK, with the kenwood, if you have the DNX-8120, then the only relay you shuold be hooking up is one in between an external source and EXT add on wire on the back of the unit.

If you're talking about video bypass, there is absolutely NO REASON to use a relay, just ground the light green wire that is supposed to be attached to the parking brake

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rjdmmfl1
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WOW, over 4100 views... thanks for the interest fellas...

a couplethings...

1. I added a few new monitors to the trunk, now the trunk looks complete!

2. my car will be shown as the Spotlight vehicle in IMPERFEKSHUN MAGAZINE sometime during the next few weeks! Will keep you all informed

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D-Roll
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Killer setup mang! Nice work

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razah9
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I got the D3, what can the Innovatek player do for me? I wouldlike a separate DVD player to play DVDs on my D3's screen withouttaking the nav disk out.

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rjdmmfl1
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razah9 wrote:I got the D3, what can the Innovatek player do for me? I wouldlike a separate DVD player to play DVDs on my D3's screen withouttaking the nav disk out.
pyle, innovatek.. all the same stuff, just labeled differently on the outside...

I bought the innovatek unit because

1. it was an extra screen, and I figured, since i'm into monitors anyway, why not add another touchscreeen monitor

2. I needed an extra dvd player for when I had my Pioneer Avic D3 installed (and although I don't need it anymore, it still looks cool (to me at least)

3. It has a usb input on the front, so I can play MP4 loaded USB drives (movies or music videos) through the USB.

I have the A/V output from the innovatek going to the A/V input on the Kenwood.. then I have my Kenwood video signal going to a video amplifier and the other 5 monitors in the car (7 monitors total)


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