No, I'm gonna replace my factory battery with a kinetic battery, but I'm adding the batcap to the system (its like a 40 farad capacitor)headhunt3r wrote:Wow very nice.
Audio's one thing on my long-term to do list for my coupe as well... as soon as I do more work terms in school. Biggest roadblock for me is probably $$$, I think i'm something like 25G's+ in the hole right now thanks to university haha.
I noticed you said you plan to replace your battery with a Batcap. Is there a reason why you choose that over say... an Optima Yellowtop? I've heard nothing but amazing things for those batteries.
Is it just me, or does the tailight overlay seem like its coming off in this picture?rjdmmfl1 wrote:Yes, you guys were right... thanks for keeping a lid on the secret... here goes the final shots...
Trust me, the ports are exactly where they are supposed to be. This audio system wasn't designed by some rookie building boxes for the first time. We had seperate specialists for each aspect of the job.. and the Box was built not built to the specs of the booklet, but to specfic specs for max SPL designed by the head technician at Rockford Fosgate! If you look on page 2 of this thread, you'll see the port lengths and distance from the rear of the boxthe727kid wrote:Very clean install, but there are a few things bugging me lol
First off, I can't tell from the angles but it looks like the ports are not placed properly. As a rule of thumb the port should be it's diamter away from the end of the box. (3" port should be 3" from the back of box). Again I can't tell from pics so it might be good.
Secondly why the caps? They do almost nothing for a system, the big 3 + a rear battery would of been much cheaper and yield much better results.
And the optimas, well I know people that run them with no problems. I use a redtop as my starting battery, never had an issue. Of course now Kinetik is my battery of choice, I have never had one let me down, and they have done nothing but amaze me.
I have no idea what you're talking about.. if you're taling about the left (driver's) side taillight overlay, what you see is a light glare!notaverage wrote:
Is it just me, or does the tailight overlay seem like its coming off in this picture?
BTW, nice setup
Too rich for my blood tho
Head technician... now thats knowing some people lol! Happen to know what it is tuned to? Curious because you said it was designed for max spl, well that would be a high tuning, which rarley sound good in cars (no lows).rjdmmfl1 wrote:
Trust me, the ports are exactly where they are supposed to be. This audio system wasn't designed by some rookie building boxes for the first time. We had seperate specialists for each aspect of the job.. and the Box was built not built to the specs of the booklet, but to specfic specs for max SPL designed by the head technician at Rockford Fosgate! If you look on page 2 of this thread, you'll see the port lengths and distance from the rear of the box
Its not that the caps do nothing for this system, its just that it could use more help. THis system is just under or just around 2000 watts RMS , with each 1 Farad of capacitance being good for about 1000 watts RMS, but most folks nowadays in SOCAL are moving away from doing a full second battery, and going with something like the BATCAP, which is basically a small battery that discharges like a capacitor. As I mentioned, we will be adding a batcap before Extreme Autofest. Also, the Caps add an aesthetic look and balance to the appearance of the amp rack that I was going for
Regarding the Optimas, I keep pretty much up to date with these things, and the word amongst everyone in the know is that Optima quality has gone to $hit!!!! They use to be very good batteries, but again, with the takeover, its just not the same. (Just like the speaker companies MB Quartz and Hifonics!)Your friends may be runniing older optima yellow tops, as in ones that were produced a few years ago, and those were bassa$$ batteries, but not anymore
Here's just one of many links you'll find about folks complaining about the new Optima Yellowtops!
http://answers.yahoo.com/quest...hefSH
I think I see what he was saying.rjdmmfl1 wrote:
I have no idea what you're talking about.. if you're taling about the left (driver's) side taillight overlay, what you see is a light glare!
ohh, I see... no, that's the actual taillight... all of our tail lights curve up right there.. its just that the matte black overlay almost perfectly matches the black of the taillight, especially when installed correctlyCanadian Coupe wrote:
I think I see what he was saying.
The right overlay in the top left corner looks like it's peelin' up. It's not though... right....... RIGHT? j/k
OK, ALL batteries and capacitors discharge, its the rate of discharge that matters. A 600 Kinetic is more like 100 1-farad caps, not 600! Also, the kinetic 600 stores and discharges at the same rate as the Xstatic BATCAP that I mentioned earlier (same principle for car audio)...pound for pound, the Kinetik batteries may be superior to the Batcap, but they are also larger... the smallest kinetic is still larger than the Xstatic batcap 400, but the Xstatic is superior in power handling compared to the Kinetik 600, but again, the Kinetic 600 is cheaper. For my setup, I don't need a fraction of the power that either of them provide, so its better to just go with the less expensive one!the727kid wrote:
I still never got the point of putting anything in a car that discharges, but each their own. I can understand from a visual standpoint, as it looks real good But anything that discharges, why use it? A Kinetik 600 is very small and has the power of 600 1 Farad Caps, and probally cost the same as one cap, and it stays charged, so your electrical is always ready for that nasty low note.
... that $hit gets no play in my ride!!!!papawu wrote:rjdmmfl1,
Nice setup.
Wish I had the funds to do something like that.
I believe you need to bump this in your ride.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=BaeNelsAOGo
Batteries and caps act completely different. I'm pretty sure you know what I meant though Don't really want to get into electrical mumbo jumbo so I'll leave it =).rjdmmfl1 wrote:
OK, ALL batteries and capacitors discharge, its the rate of discharge that matters. A 600 Kinetic is more like 100 1-farad caps, not 600! Also, the kinetic 600 stores and discharges at the same rate as the Xstatic BATCAP that I mentioned earlier (same principle for car audio)...pound for pound, the Kinetik batteries may be superior to the Batcap, but they are also larger... the smallest kinetic is still larger than the Xstatic batcap 400, but the Xstatic is superior in power handling compared to the Kinetik 600, but again, the Kinetic 600 is cheaper. For my setup, I don't need a fraction of the power that either of them provide, so its better to just go with the less expensive one!
In the end, it will make more sense for me to go with the Kinetic 600 for powering the AMPS, and a larger Deep Discharge Kinetic to start the car.
yeah I know what you meant, but even though you and I are familiar with the differences in power staorage and discharge between caps and batteries, a lot of folks that read through these posts aren't, and we don't wanna confuse them!the727kid wrote:
Batteries and caps act completely different. I'm pretty sure you know what I meant though Don't really want to get into electrical mumbo jumbo so I'll leave it =).
And @ the Boom song.
0 Gauge battery to alternator, 0 gauge engine ground to chassis, o gauge battery negative to chassis... all high strand, oxygen free copper cablesmzinsmeister wrote:Good to hear you did the big 3 up, oh and I have a kinetik 1800 under the hood but so you know the posts on it are opposite of what the factory battery posts are. I would install the 1800 under the hood then test it under load with a dmm and if you get 13.8v your good to go. I think since you got the caps that replacing the factory battery would do the job. BTW what size wire did you use on the big 3 upgrade? One more thing.. got any videos I love watching speaker p0rn.. lol
bypass on kenwoods are simple, just ground the parking brakevi3t89 wrote:hey rob is ur kenwood dnx 8120 bypassed? i just ordered a kenwood ddx 812 pretty much the same but the nav u need buy seperatly can u let me know if it can be bypassed? cuz i cant find anything on it thanks
do you have the kenwood or the avic d3?vi3t89 wrote:hate to bug you but could yo go into more detail on how to ground it ? i tried to search around and didnt come up with anythin except ur write up on the avic d3 which i still didnt get
switch on the relay??? i'm not sure what you mean. OK, with the kenwood, if you have the DNX-8120, then the only relay you shuold be hooking up is one in between an external source and EXT add on wire on the back of the unit.vi3t89 wrote:could i put a switch on the relay? my friends dad is helpin me install the deck and he told me itd b better if he put a switch on the relay?
pyle, innovatek.. all the same stuff, just labeled differently on the outside...razah9 wrote:I got the D3, what can the Innovatek player do for me? I wouldlike a separate DVD player to play DVDs on my D3's screen withouttaking the nav disk out.