ka24de vs. ka24det - Round II

Your premier source for information on the Turbo KA: KA24E-T and KA24DE-T (KA with aftermarket turbo kit)!
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biggie
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I wouldn't take the chance. 15psi is probably right at the limit on the 550s.


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Chris28
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Yeah, I'll probably take it down. WD, I might do the fuel pressure trick, I do have a boost controller somewhere in my garage so I'll just turn it up slowly and monitor my AFRs.

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Chris28
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Took it down to 10 psi. Car might be running this weekend.

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homeslicej2
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It's always nice to be able to drive these things. I think we tinker with them so much (or break them lol), that we don't get to enjoy driving them as much. Mine will be going to the dyno this Saturday. We can all point and laugh at the results after I post them :crazy:

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biggie
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Rainy, sucky weekend, so doubt they'll be any S13 driving for me.

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redtop91
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Son of a big fat girthy c0ck!

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homeslicej2
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Heeeeey Ryyyoonn :p

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Chris28, any update on that cast manifold? Been looking at getting that one for my project.

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Chris28
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I haven't started using it yet, I actually won't be using it for quite a while. My built engine has a case of rod knock, so it might be a while before I'm using any of my turbo stuff :(

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neverlift
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whats up with all the rod knock these days? My motor ate it knocking, then the motor I put in with like 500 miles was knocking.

man that is lame. Fix it and get to it.

So are the ports round or squared?

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homeslicej2
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Well, I can't get a decent pic of the dyno graph Mainstream gave me. I'll have to see if they can e-mail me the file. The first run was super choppy on the hp & tq curves and it was running lean. After making sure various sensors were good (TPS, CTS, knock, etc.), checking timing, and tweaking the fuel pressure it made decent power & had good AFR. The injectors are fresh from cleaning/service at Deastchwerks & new coils/plugs. They told me it really needs a tune though bc they had to jack the FP up. Hope to go back around mid-November for NIStune. Anywho, here are the numbers for my motor:

Before adjustments:
87.97 degrees, 21% humidity: 186whp & 178wtq

After adjusting:
87.99 degrees, 22% humidity: 223whp & 197wtq

Power effecting Mods: Greddy M-Spec FMIC, Megan turbo elbow, Greddy DP, resonated test pipe, Megan 3" exhaust, Splitfire coilpacks, AEM conical airfilter, stock T25, stock boost. Now point and laugh.
Last edited by homeslicej2 on Sat Sep 17, 2011 11:42 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Chris28
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Those numbers aren't bad at all. You certainly picked up a lot of power from upping the fuel pressure.
neverlift wrote:whats up with all the rod knock these days? My motor ate it knocking, then the motor I put in with like 500 miles was knocking.

man that is lame. Fix it and get to it.

So are the ports round or squared?
Yeah it is pretty lame. This engine only has like 25 miles on it, the guy I bought it from built it, started breaking it in, then got deployed or something and it sat for over a year. I'll just pull the crank from the bottom and replace all the bearings, hopefully the rods aren't shot. Here's a quick video of it, you can definitely hear the clacking on shutdown.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Jzd25yAVSE[/youtube]

As far as the ports on that cast manifold, they are totally circular. Going to need some porting to improve flow.

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homeslicej2
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^Ugh. That sucks. Makes me question the guys engine building skill. Junkyard SR's/RB's/CA's/etc sit for a decade or more and don't do that (well, some do lol). I hope just the bearing swap and polishing the crank will fix it for you though. I know how bad it sucks not being able to enjoy driving the car. I guess the numbers aren't bad for only 7psi with the T25. Hopefully with NIStune & a decent boost controller (turn boost up to 10-11psi) I'll gain 20-30 more hp & torque along with being able to turn the fuel pressure back down.

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Is it rod knock and not V-Train racket? Or general noise throughout? I know the KA is a loud ugly motor and I had one with rod knock...and one that tossed a rod.

In order to have rod knock, other then wear, you usually have some sort of lubrication issue.

Homegirl, have you considered a cheapy single stage water injection system? A small jet will let the ecu keep the timing ramped up and generally make more power throughout the entire curve. Not to mention keeping knock away and allowing for AFR's in the 12's where they are supposed to be.

The cast manifold looks similar to the JGS manifold flange. JGS just touches the corners of their flanges with a cnc, barley making the port squarish. The problem with the cast mani will be hogging out the flange without cutting into the runner. How thick is the flange 1/2"?

WD

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homeslicej2
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WD, I have actually considered that. Just haven't gotten around to it. I think I'm going to have them NIStune it (their tuner is one of only two listed on NIStune's website for the state of GA) after that, I plan on doing other power tweaks. I want to see what kind of #'s I can get from the stock turbo.

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Chris28
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WDRacing wrote:Is it rod knock and not V-Train racket? Or general noise throughout? I know the KA is a loud ugly motor and I had one with rod knock...and one that tossed a rod.

In order to have rod knock, other then wear, you usually have some sort of lubrication issue.
Engine was driven like 25 miles then sat for over a year, not sure if that has anything to do with the bearings. The guy I bought it from advised me to check the crank bearings, I figured if it was driven at all it must have been fine, then right when I started it up it sounded like light knock. I'll pull the bottom end apart regardless, I have a fresh s14 crank to use and I'll buy some ACL bearings after measuring everything, then plasti-gauge it all when I put it back together.
Last edited by Chris28 on Sun Sep 18, 2011 8:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Razi
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Lame!

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neverlift
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Razi wrote:Lame!
yep

I have been right where you stand bought a supposed to be good motor for too much just to fire it up and have no oil pressure at all and a nasty knock. another 300 bux and its was running.

as wd said for knock to happen oil system issues, no oil, or and this was my problem builder errors. ALL my bearings were fuct, along with too many loose bolts to count...

as for the manifold I would at least taper it out some or something, that IMO is gonna create turbulence pre turbo.

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Chris28
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I'm betting it was builder error, I'll make sure it's done right this time though. I'm pretty bummed about it, but all I'm out is time. The internals alone cost more than I got the engine for, so with a new crank and bearings I'll still have gotten a good deal on it.

edit: As for the manifold, I'm definitely going to taper it out to square. I have a spare gasket to get the port shape right, I'll try to blend it in as best I can with a dremel haha. The flange is indeed 1/2" thick.

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Chris28
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homeslicej2
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So, we had a guy come into the ER last night who decided he would try welding some stuff for about an hour...without a welder's mask :facepalm: and then wonders why his eyes hurt, why he can't see, & why the doctors can't fix his eyes. I would liked have told him, "We can't fix stupid." :stickhit:

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Chris28
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Wowwwww, sucks that he can't see, but he should have been wearing a mask.

I'm afraid of the cheap auto-dimming masks, they'll sometimes flash you if you're welding certain metals.

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homeslicej2
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I've never welded before, but I know not to look at without a mask. This guy flat out told me what I typed above. I'm going to see about putting my Greddy oil pan on today. Been sitting on it for awhile. I don't have an air compressor (I've nowhere to put one) so I'm hoping a shop will let me use their air nozzle to spray it out really well. I don't want to risk getting any metal flakes leftover from the casting in the oil.

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homeslicej2 wrote:So, we had a guy come into the ER last night who decided he would try welding some stuff for about an hour...without a welder's mask :facepalm: and then wonders why his eyes hurt, why he can't see, & why the doctors can't fix his eyes. I would liked have told him, "We can't fix stupid." :stickhit:
Wow...Bet he was wicked stoned when he thought that was a good idea.

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haha, dilated pupils + welding - mask... nice

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WDRacing
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homeslicej2 wrote:WD, I have actually considered that. Just haven't gotten around to it. I think I'm going to have them NIStune it (their tuner is one of only two listed on NIStune's website for the state of GA) after that, I plan on doing other power tweaks. I want to see what kind of #'s I can get from the stock turbo.
Here's my opinion on tuning and water injection vs your idea of getting the most bang for your buck on that T25. Fits squarely into the realm of how I usually approach car mods. In fact, that's the entire reason I fell in love with sub-injection in the first place.

I'm not familiar with NIStune, can you switch between maps? Have one map tuned for water and one tuned without. I suppose you could use a dual stage boost controller and just run more boost with the water, but that T25 really peters out quick. If you tune for water injection you don't hardly pull any timing out and you run with AFR's right around 12.5 to 12.7. We're talking 25-30 more hp throughout the entire rpm band and close to 50 I'd bet at peak.

When ever you're ready to try it I'm down to assist :dblthumb:

In the mean time...

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJMWyRiY2PE[/youtube]

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WD- :monkey: :monkey: :monkey:

Chris- You still need the bracket for the driveshaft? Sorry the hurricane knocked out a brothas computer with a power surge and took me a minute to get back up and running. Is that another motor of yours with knock? Between your 2, mine, and neverlift's we could start a KAT percussion band :gotme

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Chris28
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SiDwAyZ240 wrote:WD- :monkey: :monkey: :monkey:

Chris- You still need the bracket for the driveshaft? Sorry the hurricane knocked out a brothas computer with a power surge and took me a minute to get back up and running. Is that another motor of yours with knock? Between your 2, mine, and neverlift's we could start a KAT percussion band :gotme
Already got the bracket, thanks though. Hahaha yes it is another motor, and a band isn't such a bad idea.

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homeslicej2
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WD, NIStune was developed in Australia and uses the factory ECU. Modify the ECU board, works through the CONSULT port http://www.nistune.com/ they have the gist of the info listed on their homepage. I'm not sure if you can tune more than one map or not. The benefit of NIStune is real-time tuning on the dyno/street via the real-time datalogging via the software they've developed at a cost-effective price vs a true stand-alone. I see NIStune as a more complete ROM-tune, that is more user friendly (no downtime waiting on ECU or new chips to install) We'll see though. I plan on getting a tune now so we can turn the high FP back down & I have a reliable motor/car. After school, I will start working on real mods. Maybe then we can try H2O injection in which case, I will definitely hit you up :) Great vid btw lol.

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Image

anyone remember me!?!? LOL wasup guys? last time i was on here was when i was looking for my lost 240sx, shes gone now, and i have now since replaced her with a 2012 genesis 2.0t Rspec!!!!

I love the thing, so much fun to drive, anywho, a lotta people dont recognize me, but if you go look on the 1st page of the original ka vs kat thread, i helped started it lol :inoutgay:

hows everyone been!?!?


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