I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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qat727
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ka-t4u wrote:Thank you so much mathew for all this information, it really helped me a lot!!!

now for the armonic balancers can i just use the two of them that my engines already have???

and about the oil stuff... i can't put my de head on the right due to the timing chain and stuff... am i right??

thank you so much!!1 and i will also like to know if this setups has given you any problems???

it nice to know i can interchange rods because i needed one!!!lol.. that was a question i was saving for later! but thanks for answering it!!!apreciate your help, and hope you can help me out with further problems!!!

Oliver... liver...
No problem. Glad to help. For the harmonic balancers, yes, you can use the ones you have, and in fact, I'd suggest it. I had 3 different ones from my parts engines, and I destroyed the worst of the three. Just be careful when you go to do it, as the pulley is made of cast iron, so if you hit it in the wrong way, the center can crack and you'll be SOL.

I'm not sure I get the question about the head, but I'll endeavor to answer it. The head will fit on the block itself. It will not fit with the stock E timing equipment. If you choose to use the E block, you will have to add the DE timing equipment. I did not check to see if this will bolt up, as I did not use the E block on my build. The DE head is not compatible with the E timing covers or chain.

Yes, my setup has given me troubles. Mostly centered around the timing chains and pistons. When I purchased my car, the engine was already blown and disassembled in the trunk. It came with an aftermarket timing set from eBay. I installed the aftermarket timing chain and tensioners along with the new sprockets. The tensioners are defective and have resulted in it consistently jumping time.

Additionally, using the E pistons resulted in an inability to run anything but premium gas. In order to keep the engine from detonating due to the increased compression ratio, I had to retard the timing. The problem is that the engine kept jumping time, so it would always be detonating, regardless of what I ran. A few months ago, it jumped time bad enough that it stopped running all together, and I haven't bothered to fix it yet.

What this means for you? I'd suggest using OEM timing parts, and if you do decide to use the E pistons, make sure that you time the engine correctly and are willing to be committed to using only premium gas while you own the vehicle. Personally, the power gain wasn't noticeable enough for me to go through the hassle of using the E pistons, so if I wind up tearing this engine down again, I'll put stock pistons back in.

Other than those problems I just went over, I haven't had any other real issues out of the engine. I replaced all the seals when I rebuilt it, and I haven't noticed any leaks or anything else. No noticeable vibration from the harmonic balancer pulley from the spacer I made, either.

I used the full set of rods and pistons from my E when I rebuilt my DE. If I were to do it over again, I'd still use the E rods, but I would use the DE pistons on the rods. I'll be glad to pass any information I can along. I took quite a few pictures while I was tearing the E down, and I believe I still have them. Then again, trial and error was the best training I got on this project.


ka-t4u
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thanks again!!!

can you please give me more detailed intructions on how to remove the harmonic balancer??? you see the thing is i am doing this project in school... and i can only work on it in the mornings... and since i am learning all this new stuff i don't want to f*** up anything... i would really apreciate this, and i am mad cuz my teacher and the rest of the students think it's not gonna work... so now i wanna do it even faster so i can shut them up... and i know this is probably a stupid question but can i boost on that setup???

thanks again for the time and information!!!!!

Oliver


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qat727
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ka-t4u wrote:can you please give me more detailed intructions on how to remove the harmonic balancer???
I'm not sure if you want to know how to remove it from the engine, or how to beat the center out of it. So, I'll answer both. To remove it from the engine, you loosen and halfway unscrew the harmonic balancer pulley bolt. Then you use a pulley puller to remove the pulley and unscrew the bolt the rest of the way. Leaving the bolt part of the way in lets the puller have something to work against without trashing your crankshaft.

As far as removing the center, unbolt the outer pulleys from the main cast one. Then take a cold chisel and beat on the spokes around the edges until the pulley breaks off, then work inward, and grind everything flush.

Since you're working in a school shop, I'll give you another good possibility. Take the distributor drive gear out of the E engine, chuck it up in a lathe, and turn the helical teeth off of the gear and make a spacer out of that. Had my lathe been working, this is what I would have done. I'd suggest doing that instead if you have a lathe at your disposal.
ka-t4u wrote:now i wanna do it even faster so i can shut them up... and i know this is probably a stupid question but can i boost on that setup???
I understand wanting to do it quickly, but I'd suggest being careful not to screw up and miss something.

As far as boost, see my comments above regarding the use of the E block and the potential for an oil return line. When you get done with the rebuild, it should be just like any other KA24DE out there. A few exceptions, though.

If you run the E pistons, you CAN NOT BOOST THE ENGINE! If you want to boost it, you MUST run the DE pistons or something with less compression.

I'd suggest that if you plan to build it for boost, then be careful what you put into the block. If you're going for a cheap stock rebuild (I did that) then I wouldn't be looking for big numbers out of the engine. If you put some effort into building it and buy really good parts, then yeah, go ahead and boost it. It's up to you and what you put into the engine. Either way, it's a good idea to run it NA to break it in before you put the boost to it.

ka-t4u
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dang i dunno how many times i can thank u for this... but the moreuexplaein 2 me the more questions that pop out! and i don't want you to end up like this ...

now my other question iswhen i am going to use either or, whereshould iplace it? after the pulleys?before the pulleys? in the middle of them??? whenim putting everything back 2gether where do i place the spacer???

thank u so much again i hope i am not being a P.I.T.A....

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qat727
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ka-t4u wrote:dang i dunno how many times i can thank u for this... but the moreuexplaein 2 me the more questions that pop out! and i don't want you to end up like this ...

now my other question iswhen i am going to use either or, whereshould iplace it? after the pulleys?before the pulleys? in the middle of them??? whenim putting everything back 2gether where do i place the spacer???

thank u so much again i hope i am not being a P.I.T.A....
Nah... it hasn't become redundant, so I'm still cool with all the questions.

Honestly, I can't remember where I put the spacer, and it's dark outside, so I can't really check. But it's pretty difficult to screw it up. Basically, you put the timing chain sprocket on and the oil pump drive on, and you put the spacer on wherever it needs to be to make the harmonic balancer pulley sit in the proper location. If I recall correctly, it went on the end of the crankshaft after the harmonic balancer pulley, but don't quote me on it.

ka-t4u
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Thnaks man!! i'll be on th process of pulling that engine out of there and getting my crank and rod!! if anything else comes up i'll let you know and hopefully everything goes alright, oh and about the boost, of course im not gonna go out boosting right when im done with the rebuild i may not know to much but i kno enough not to do that!!lol and um i'm just planing to boost like 8 puonds and maybe get a boost controler to crank up the boost if i take it to the track but i'm not planing on going any higher than 12 on those stock internals... plus, i still gotta save the money to buy the kit!!!lol... i don't wnat too big of a number out of it either since it's gonna be my all around warrior... you kno daily driver/drifter(while i learn)lol.

well anyways... thank you very much and and don't forget to check on this newbie since i might need some further help and you sound like the man for the job since we think likewise about what to do with our ka's... thanks again!!!

sincerily.... Oliver...

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qat727
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Glad I could help some. I know it sucks to not have a source for info... that's what I ran into.

As far as the turbo thing goes, if you've got the mind to do it, a junkyard turbo setup is pretty cheap and can be reliable if you put some effort into it.

I get the newbie thread posts sent to me, so I'll keep a look out for you. Good luck on the build. I've given up on making any power with the KA. I've got bigger plans now.

240boy3424
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hi,

my name is bart, im 18 and i currently drive a nissan frontier, and i really want a 240. i have found a 1993 hatchback sohc, it has a k&n intake and the best sounding exhaust i have herd. he is offering 3,300 for it. the body is in good condition besides a little faded paint on the back quarter pannel. the interior is pretty nice, there is one place that needs new stitching. but how does it sound???if anyone could find a better 240 within the georgia region it would be great.

thank you,

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Chances are, if it is a 93, it has a DOHC instead of a SOHC. I don't know a lot of people that swap backwards in years.

$3300 is a little steep, but I've heard of worse. Post pics if you can, and if you really want it, buy it.

Nisxsz
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240boy3424
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Chances are, if it is a 93, it has a DOHC instead of a SOHC. I don't know a lot of people that swap backwards in years.

$3300 is a little steep, but I've heard of worse. Post pics if you can, and if you really want it, buy it.
yeah, i asked him and he said that the oem motor blew, so he put a cheaper one in it. but i talked to some of the people from the atl-240 club and they said just wait for a better one to come around.
Modified by 240boy3424 at 12:12 PM 10/5/2007

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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe
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quick questions guys, sohc's and dohc's used the same transmission? and sohc to doch swap only thing i have to get is a some power steering conversion line right?

240boy3424
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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe wrote:quick questions guys, sohc's and dohc's used the same transmission? and sohc to doch swap only thing i have to get is a some power steering conversion line right?
i've heard if your thinking of changing a sohc to a sr20det, it's better to take out the power steering for more power.

ka-t4u
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hey men another quick question...

what are the seals/gasket/bearings and all the stuff i need for my crank???

The only thing i can think of its the main bearings... i don't know wht elese do i need...

would you please tell me all the stuff i need to replace on my crank???

thanks u so much!!!

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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe
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240boy3424 wrote:i've heard if your thinking of changing a sohc to a sr20det, it's better to take out the power steering for more power.
Im not swapping an sr, my ka, someone answer question please. ty

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qat727
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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe wrote:quick questions guys, sohc's and dohc's used the same transmission? and sohc to doch swap only thing i have to get is a some power steering conversion line right?
I can't answer both parts, but I can tell you that the 5 speed used on the SOHC S13 is the same as the 5 speed used in the DOHC S13. Hopefully someone else knows the rest.

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qat727
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ka-t4u wrote:hey men another quick question...

what are the seals/gasket/bearings and all the stuff i need for my crank???

The only thing i can think of its the main bearings... i don't know wht elese do i need...

would you please tell me all the stuff i need to replace on my crank???

thanks u so much!!!
Ummmm... if you're going to the trouble of replacing the crankshaft, doesn't it make sense to replace more than just the main bearings?

For doing a bottom end rebuild on a KA24DE, here's the list of stuff I can think of that I used.

Rod bearingsMain bearingsRear main sealFront timing cover sealOil pan gasketCopious amounts of RTV to glue everything back together

Now, recalling that you said you'd need to replace one of your rods, you'd do better with more stuff.

Head gasketringspossibly head boltsprobably a valve cover gasketintake and exhaust manifold gasketsand more RTVif you've gone that far, go ahead and replace the PCV rubber lines and possibly the PCV valve.

I'm probably forgetting something. I know I bought everything I thought I'd need and still had to make several parts runs.

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Zippy69
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Nisxsz wrote:Yea a 93 is most likely a DOHC. 3300 is an ok price depends on the condition of the car. Here are some more to look at...

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/car/438860742.html

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/car/438381274.html

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/car/434650668.html

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/car/435352704.html
93 is dohc but 3300 is a little steep for a 93. I have a 93 and I paid $1400 with a straight body, near perfect interior( cracked dash but otherwise very good), strong engine with a working A/C. But if it is a good deal to you then that is all that matters. Something is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it.

ka-t4u
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well i rebuilding the whole thing remember??? that baby it's all apart & in pieces over there at my school, but i was more concerned with the specific stuff that had to do with the crank. thanks again!! and by the way im planing on getting my parts from AMS... it's that ok?? or do you know a better/cheaper place online where i can get quality/performance products for my engine?

thank you again!!!

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qat727
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From what I can gather, AMS is pretty good. I didn't add any aftermarket performance parts to mine, so I'm not the best resource for the modification information. Sorry.

PMSing Chicken
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I searched and I could find how to remove my rear bumper off my 240sx hatch. Maybe I'm not looking in the right places. I need to straighten it out a bit. Also pictures who be very helpful.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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PMSing Chicken wrote:I searched and I could find how to remove my rear bumper off my 240sx hatch. Maybe I'm not looking in the right places. I need to straighten it out a bit. Also pictures who be very helpful.
that is a little beyond the scope of the newb thread...

Although I've never done it, I imagine its a lot like the front bumper, sooo tons of bolts that will undoubtedly break off and probably never make it anywhere near the car again. I pulled like 20 bolts out of the front bumper, I think maybe 8ish are in there now...

ka-t4u
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hey!! its me again!!

i have another question... what's the pcv valve and what does it do??? and where is it located at???

oh and by the way today i figured out my parts car it's got kyb agx's!!! u know anything about these?? they are set up with eibach sportlines!!! is that any good?? any recomendations or information at all on these?? are they worth putting on mine?? i took them off already and i am planing on using them!! i hope they are worth it!1 they don't look damaged or anything but i wouldn't know until i put them on and drive...

thanks....

jh3xp
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pcv valve takes blow by gases from crank case and vents them back to intake.

now for my question.... this morning my car started goin crazy today. when my car started it was fine but then i let it warm up. Then it started vibrating hard like i could feel the shaking to my shifter so i turned it off. After that it wouldnt start and juss kept cranking. Later that day after coming from school it started but as it got warm again it started vibrating hard. I did notice it was colder then usuall today. im gonna throw out some ideas..... ima say fuel injectors are bad? lol iono oh and as i revved up the engine it was fine but when i got back to idle it started to vibrate hard again.

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qat727
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ka-t4u wrote:what's the pcv valve and what does it do??? and where is it located at???
It stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation
jh3xp wrote:pcv valve takes blow by gases from crank case and vents them back to intake.
On the KA24DE, there is a box on the left side of the engine as you are looking at it. The PCV valve is screwed into that box and the hoses run from it to the intake manifold. I believe on the KA24DE the box is silver and on the KA24E the box is black, but I may have the two confused.
ka-t4u wrote:oh and by the way today i figured out my parts car it's got kyb agx's!!! u know anything about these?? they are set up with eibach sportlines!!! is that any good?? any recomendations or information at all on these?? are they worth putting on mine?? i took them off already and i am planing on using them!! i hope they are worth it!1 they don't look damaged or anything but i wouldn't know until i put them on and drive...
KYB AGX's and Sportlines are decent. It seems most folks here like coilovers, but what you have is a decent strut/spring combo. If they aren't damaged, then it should be better than stock. Go ahead and slap them on. Worst case scenario, you can swap back to your stock parts.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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qat727 wrote:On the KA24DE, there is a box on the left side of the engine as you are looking at it. The PCV valve is screwed into that box and the hoses run from it to the intake manifold. I believe on the KA24DE the box is silver and on the KA24E the box is black, but I may have the two confused.
Yeah, the DE is black, E... I have no idea.Anyway, looking at the motor from in front of it, there is pretty much no way you are going to be able to see your PCV valve. You are pretty much going to have to remove your intake manifold to get to it. I've heard of some other people maybe taking out their alternator and/or starter to get to it... but yeah, its a pain in the ***.

$3 part, $80 job

bowlchop
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I am a newbie here and my question is, I will be installing 300zx alluminum uprights on my 96 240sx and was wondering if 300zx coilovers front and rear would work? I read somewhere 300zx rear coilovers would work and I'm not too sure if z32 coilovers will work for the front. If that is not possible which coilovers manufactured for the 240sx would have interchangable lower mounts to the fork type?

I've searched around and the megan street and track have the changable fork type conversion but I'm looking for a good coilover in the price range of 1500 to 2000 coilovers.

Thanks in advance.

d0pe240
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Just got my first set of coils. They are cusco zero 2E and I'm having trouble lowering them. These are used and they didn't come with instructions. I've messed with the prechers by moving it up a little bit, then locking them. Then lossen the lock collar on the bottom and moved the whole coilover down, but still the height stays the same on both sides of the front. I haven't done anything to the rear yet. So if anybody can help me out please? Also how low can the zero 2E lower the s13? If anyone has pictures, can they post it up please? Thanks alot.

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Zilvia33
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okay look for a bit of quick help here.

Im trying to remove my front bumoer but i am having the most PITA of time getting the turn signals out.

Its 91 hatch, shark nose. Is there some specialty bloody way to remove these things.

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Zilvia33
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nvm i just channel lock the fukers off.....


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