adrians_s13 wrote:forced induction
adrians_s13 wrote:forced induction
For all intensive purposes... yes. You could blow like 40 grand and maaaaybe get there... with tons of work, lots of custom stuff, etc... but that is out of the range of "newbie questions".Nisxsz wrote:Is it impossible to be in the 200-250 range without forced induction?
You could run a blow-through-maf setup (like me) at which point you don't put the MAF in front of the turbo, you put it in front of the throttle body.adrians_s13 wrote:Correct me if I'm wrong...
care to explain to me... I dont know anyone that personally runs a blow-through-mafs setup... I'm curious to how it looks. The cold pipe still connects to the intake manifold right? So I'm assuming you just toss in the mafs somewhere on the cold pipe?PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:You could run a blow-through-maf setup (like me) at which point you don't put the MAF in front of the turbo, you put it in front of the throttle body.
yeah dude, I'd like to see picsPapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Correct. Ideally, you want to put the MAFs after everything that could possibly leak, or anything like that. So, you want it after your blow off valve, after your intercooler, after any crazy piping, etc. This way, you can vent your BOV atmospherically, and it won't be blowing off metered air. I can go from full boost, and hit the clutch, and have no stumbling or anything whatsoever. My BOV actually blows off air at idle as well, so I have no idea how my car would run if I DIDIN'T have a blow through setup, with atmospheric BOV. I'll see if I can get some pics for you in the not too distant future. I just got an N62 MAF and am going to NH this weekend, so It'll probably be a couple days.
but isn't the de mafs like 2" or somthing... cold pipe is 3" right? wouldnt that ruin air flow from the ic?PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Currently I do have the stock KA24DE MAF in there. I also have E-manage blue. I plan on getting a Enthalpy tuned ECU as a base map and tune from there if/when I go meth injection and stuff. I just got to UNH and am 5 deep in under an hour, but I did bring my hard drive, so maybe I can post pics later (as in tomorrow sometime... tonight is gonna be a ****show).
But yeah, you can do anything with anything, all you need is adaptors and stuff, and you can run any MAF anywhere you want...
Unless someone modified it, the bleeder is not a one way check valve. When you open it, air or brake fluid can go either way. If you don't screw it tight before you pull the clutch up, you can and will suck air back in.jh3xp wrote:ey i got another dumb question.... Is the bleeder thingy on the slave cylinder a one way check valve? i was wondering this so that i could bleed the system my self. if it is... Its okay that you dont screw it tight again when u let off the clutch right?
Well, I'm not sure if that means a Honda person is purporting to know about a Nissan, or if they are speaking from their own experiences. Either way, I've owned 5 Civics, and every one of them had the same slave bleeder setup as my 240SX. I don't know if Honda changed the design on late models or not, but I know that from 1992-1995 Honda did not use a check valve on the bleeder. You might be able to find one to add. Sorry to disappoint.jh3xp wrote:oh i guess honda people lied to me then :/
no disappointment i read it off some honda forum lol which is wat i meant by "honda people lied to me" but ill juss do as u say and not take a risk and juss have sumone work the pedals for meqat727 wrote:Well, I'm not sure if that means a Honda person is purporting to know about a Nissan, or if they are speaking from their own experiences. Either way, I've owned 5 Civics, and every one of them had the same slave bleeder setup as my 240SX. I don't know if Honda changed the design on late models or not, but I know that from 1992-1995 Honda did not use a check valve on the bleeder. You might be able to find one to add. Sorry to disappoint.
If you remove the clutch dampener box thingy, you should be able to gravity bleed the system relatively well... meaning take the cap off the master and crack the bleeder on the slave.jh3xp wrote:
no disappointment i read it off some honda forum lol which is wat i meant by "honda people lied to me" but ill juss do as u say and not take a risk and juss have sumone work the pedals for me
all years and models regardless of trim came with power steering, so either it's been removed, or theres something wrong with it.Nabstur wrote:Hey guys, well i have a quick question. Im currently looking at a 1989 240sx hatchback. mechanically the car looks good, going to take it in for an inspection before i buy it, but i wanted to ask your guys' opinions. The 1989 doesn't have power steering from what i know. How big of a disadvantage is this? is there a huge difference when comparing it to a 1991 model? Thanks
imo.. just get the cheapest one or make your own and just get a K&N filter... its not worth spending hundreds of dollars for an intake that'll give you like 5-10 hp... if thatpoems2beats wrote:Im lookin 2 get a intake 4 my s13. what do u guys recommend, like wat brand gives u the most hp and all that. Thnx
theres a lot of things that can cause that... throttle possition, air intake control valve, mafs, weak grounds, bad injectors, wiring harness...poems2beats wrote:nother ?, wen my car is cold and i first starst it my idle is really bad. like it will go down 2 like 100rpms then go up and back down then finally stabalize. wats up with that.
Add coolant temp sensor to that list.adrians_s13 wrote:theres a lot of things that can cause that... throttle possition, air intake control valve, mafs, weak grounds, bad injectors, wiring harness...
start out by cleaning your aicv
If I'm understanding you correctly, you used a small jack, and it bent your frame rail? If that's the case, were you jacking it up at one of the proper jacking points? If you were, it shouldn't bend.jh3xp wrote:okay so im jacking up my car.... and then it like makes huge indent... its on the frame but like the middlish? but the thing is ...its one of those small *** jack lift with the small lifter part thingy so all the pressure is in one area not spread out im guessing this is why? should i ditch this peice of **** jack lift and get a bigger one?
I've got first hand experience with this one. Short answer is yes and no.ka-t4u wrote:alright i just got into this thing... the deal is i just got myself an s13 with a blown ka into it... im planing on rebuilding it... so i bought another s13 but it turned out like a blind date... it has a ka24e!!! and is nbot that i don't like that engine but i was really hoping to rebuild the de... my cuestion is... does the crank from the "e" fit my "de"???
thank you very much for your time and i would really apreciate any help with this!!