I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
Nisxsz
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Is it impossible to be in the 200-250 range without forced induction?
adrians_s13 wrote:forced induction


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PapaSmurf2k3
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Nisxsz wrote:Is it impossible to be in the 200-250 range without forced induction?
For all intensive purposes... yes. You could blow like 40 grand and maaaaybe get there... with tons of work, lots of custom stuff, etc... but that is out of the range of "newbie questions".

In a simple answer: its not worth it, and it's possibility is questionable.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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adrians_s13 wrote:Correct me if I'm wrong...
You could run a blow-through-maf setup (like me) at which point you don't put the MAF in front of the turbo, you put it in front of the throttle body.

Honestly, I don't know why anyone would blow $250 on a freking intake pipe. Its JUST A PIPE! You could get a K&N cone filter, a silicone adaptor, and a pipe (custom made, to put the filter wherever you want it) for under $100. I guess, if the product was around $125, it miiiight be worth it, if it came with top notch parts. The only difference would be that the pipe would by shiny.

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adrianfromthecastle
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:You could run a blow-through-maf setup (like me) at which point you don't put the MAF in front of the turbo, you put it in front of the throttle body.
care to explain to me... I dont know anyone that personally runs a blow-through-mafs setup... I'm curious to how it looks. The cold pipe still connects to the intake manifold right? So I'm assuming you just toss in the mafs somewhere on the cold pipe?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Correct. Ideally, you want to put the MAFs after everything that could possibly leak, or anything like that. So, you want it after your blow off valve, after your intercooler, after any crazy piping, etc. This way, you can vent your BOV atmospherically, and it won't be blowing off metered air. I can go from full boost, and hit the clutch, and have no stumbling or anything whatsoever. My BOV actually blows off air at idle as well, so I have no idea how my car would run if I DIDIN'T have a blow through setup, with atmospheric BOV. I'll see if I can get some pics for you in the not too distant future. I just got an N62 MAF and am going to NH this weekend, so It'll probably be a couple days.

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adrianfromthecastle
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Correct. Ideally, you want to put the MAFs after everything that could possibly leak, or anything like that. So, you want it after your blow off valve, after your intercooler, after any crazy piping, etc. This way, you can vent your BOV atmospherically, and it won't be blowing off metered air. I can go from full boost, and hit the clutch, and have no stumbling or anything whatsoever. My BOV actually blows off air at idle as well, so I have no idea how my car would run if I DIDIN'T have a blow through setup, with atmospheric BOV. I'll see if I can get some pics for you in the not too distant future. I just got an N62 MAF and am going to NH this weekend, so It'll probably be a couple days.
yeah dude, I'd like to see pics

I'm guessing it can only be done on something like an N62 or something as large due to the cold pipe being 3" and all right? Like, I doubt you can do it on a stock mafs? Dude... lol... all this time and I have yet to see your motor set-up. What ecu tuning do you have? piggyback?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Currently I do have the stock KA24DE MAF in there. I also have E-manage blue. I plan on getting a Enthalpy tuned ECU as a base map and tune from there if/when I go meth injection and stuff. I just got to UNH and am 5 deep in under an hour, but I did bring my hard drive, so maybe I can post pics later (as in tomorrow sometime... tonight is gonna be a ****show).

But yeah, you can do anything with anything, all you need is adaptors and stuff, and you can run any MAF anywhere you want...

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adrianfromthecastle
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Currently I do have the stock KA24DE MAF in there. I also have E-manage blue. I plan on getting a Enthalpy tuned ECU as a base map and tune from there if/when I go meth injection and stuff. I just got to UNH and am 5 deep in under an hour, but I did bring my hard drive, so maybe I can post pics later (as in tomorrow sometime... tonight is gonna be a ****show).

But yeah, you can do anything with anything, all you need is adaptors and stuff, and you can run any MAF anywhere you want...
but isn't the de mafs like 2" or somthing... cold pipe is 3" right? wouldnt that ruin air flow from the ic?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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well... what does it matter if it is in front of the turbo or after it. Messing up the flow is messing up the flow. And I beleive it goes from 2.5" to 3" FYI.

jh3xp
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ey i got another dumb question.... Is the bleeder thingy on the slave cylinder a one way check valve? i was wondering this so that i could bleed the system my self. if it is... Its okay that you dont screw it tight again when u let off the clutch right?

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qat727
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jh3xp wrote:ey i got another dumb question.... Is the bleeder thingy on the slave cylinder a one way check valve? i was wondering this so that i could bleed the system my self. if it is... Its okay that you dont screw it tight again when u let off the clutch right?
Unless someone modified it, the bleeder is not a one way check valve. When you open it, air or brake fluid can go either way. If you don't screw it tight before you pull the clutch up, you can and will suck air back in.

I've tried bleeding it myself before on various cars with varying degrees of failure. You could get a one person bleeder kit and try, but honestly, the easiest thing I've found is to just get someone to spend a few minutes working the pedal for you.

One idea would be to get a piece of wood that is the right length to push the pedal to the floor and wedge against something, and use that to compress the pedal, unscrew the bleeder, tighten, remove wood/wedge, pull up, repeat ad infinitum.

jh3xp
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oh i guess honda people lied to me then :/

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qat727
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jh3xp wrote:oh i guess honda people lied to me then :/
Well, I'm not sure if that means a Honda person is purporting to know about a Nissan, or if they are speaking from their own experiences. Either way, I've owned 5 Civics, and every one of them had the same slave bleeder setup as my 240SX. I don't know if Honda changed the design on late models or not, but I know that from 1992-1995 Honda did not use a check valve on the bleeder. You might be able to find one to add. Sorry to disappoint.

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j35us
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Is it worth the time and money to swap an RB series engine with my KA?

jh3xp
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qat727 wrote:Well, I'm not sure if that means a Honda person is purporting to know about a Nissan, or if they are speaking from their own experiences. Either way, I've owned 5 Civics, and every one of them had the same slave bleeder setup as my 240SX. I don't know if Honda changed the design on late models or not, but I know that from 1992-1995 Honda did not use a check valve on the bleeder. You might be able to find one to add. Sorry to disappoint.
no disappointment i read it off some honda forum lol which is wat i meant by "honda people lied to me" but ill juss do as u say and not take a risk and juss have sumone work the pedals for me

Kenny2
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ive only had my 95 240 for about 2 months. what are some good websites for body kits, interior etc.?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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jh3xp wrote:
no disappointment i read it off some honda forum lol which is wat i meant by "honda people lied to me" but ill juss do as u say and not take a risk and juss have sumone work the pedals for me
If you remove the clutch dampener box thingy, you should be able to gravity bleed the system relatively well... meaning take the cap off the master and crack the bleeder on the slave.

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Quinn
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whats up? another newb here. just bought a 92 240 sx. most my life i've dealt with domestics, but decided to try an import. i was just wondering how do i find out which number series engine my car has and whats the difference?

never mind! i looked around and found out some info on the subject. its amazing what searching can get you.
Modified by Quinn at 2:29 PM 9/30/2007

Nabstur
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Hey guys, well i have a quick question. Im currently looking at a 1989 240sx hatchback. mechanically the car looks good, going to take it in for an inspection before i buy it, but i wanted to ask your guys' opinions. The 1989 doesn't have power steering from what i know. How big of a disadvantage is this? is there a huge difference when comparing it to a 1991 model? Thanks

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adrianfromthecastle
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Nabstur wrote:Hey guys, well i have a quick question. Im currently looking at a 1989 240sx hatchback. mechanically the car looks good, going to take it in for an inspection before i buy it, but i wanted to ask your guys' opinions. The 1989 doesn't have power steering from what i know. How big of a disadvantage is this? is there a huge difference when comparing it to a 1991 model? Thanks
all years and models regardless of trim came with power steering, so either it's been removed, or theres something wrong with it.

as far as driving in a non power steered car... its not that bad at high speed... it just becomes a hassel in the parking lots.

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poems2beats
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Im lookin 2 get a intake 4 my s13. what do u guys recommend, like wat brand gives u the most hp and all that. Thnx

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adrianfromthecastle
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poems2beats wrote:Im lookin 2 get a intake 4 my s13. what do u guys recommend, like wat brand gives u the most hp and all that. Thnx
imo.. just get the cheapest one or make your own and just get a K&N filter... its not worth spending hundreds of dollars for an intake that'll give you like 5-10 hp... if that

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poems2beats
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nother ?, wen my car is cold and i first starst it my idle is really bad. like it will go down 2 like 100rpms then go up and back down then finally stabalize. wats up with that.

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adrianfromthecastle
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poems2beats wrote:nother ?, wen my car is cold and i first starst it my idle is really bad. like it will go down 2 like 100rpms then go up and back down then finally stabalize. wats up with that.
theres a lot of things that can cause that... throttle possition, air intake control valve, mafs, weak grounds, bad injectors, wiring harness...

start out by cleaning your aicv

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PapaSmurf2k3
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adrians_s13 wrote:theres a lot of things that can cause that... throttle possition, air intake control valve, mafs, weak grounds, bad injectors, wiring harness...

start out by cleaning your aicv
Add coolant temp sensor to that list.

ka-t4u
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alright i just got into this thing... the deal is i just got myself an s13 with a blown ka into it... im planing on rebuilding it... so i bought another s13 but it turned out like a blind date... it has a ka24e!!! and is nbot that i don't like that engine but i was really hoping to rebuild the de... my cuestion is... does the crank from the "e" fit my "de"???

thank you very much for your time and i would really apreciate any help with this!!

jh3xp
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okay so im jacking up my car.... and then it like makes huge indent... its on the frame but like the middlish? but the thing is ...its one of those small *** jack lift with the small lifter part thingy so all the pressure is in one area not spread out im guessing this is why? should i ditch this peice of **** jack lift and get a bigger one?

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qat727
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jh3xp wrote:okay so im jacking up my car.... and then it like makes huge indent... its on the frame but like the middlish? but the thing is ...its one of those small *** jack lift with the small lifter part thingy so all the pressure is in one area not spread out im guessing this is why? should i ditch this peice of **** jack lift and get a bigger one?
If I'm understanding you correctly, you used a small jack, and it bent your frame rail? If that's the case, were you jacking it up at one of the proper jacking points? If you were, it shouldn't bend.

I use a big floor jack and it doesn't bend, then again, I usually lift at one of the proper jacking points.

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qat727
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ka-t4u wrote:alright i just got into this thing... the deal is i just got myself an s13 with a blown ka into it... im planing on rebuilding it... so i bought another s13 but it turned out like a blind date... it has a ka24e!!! and is nbot that i don't like that engine but i was really hoping to rebuild the de... my cuestion is... does the crank from the "e" fit my "de"???

thank you very much for your time and i would really apreciate any help with this!!
I've got first hand experience with this one. Short answer is yes and no.

Physical dimensions of the KA24E crank are the same as the KA24DE crank from the rear of the crank to the front journal. The snouts are different sizes. You can put the E crankshaft into a DE block and have everything inside the engine together properly. However, when you install the timing chain drive sprocket, the oil pump drive, and the harmonic balancer, you will have an extra 1/2" or so of crank left over, so you can't tighten it down.

What I did to get around this was to take an extra harmonic balancer pulley and knock the center out of it. I ground the center down until it was round and used it as a spacer. After that, everything bolted together fine.

I'll give you a few other pieces of information about E vs DE differences/opportunities.

The blocks are different. The DE uses a front sump oil pan. E uses a mid/rear sump. The blocks differ in that the E has an extra channel cast into the side of the block that goes to the oil pan. You can install a DE front timing cover, oil pan, and sump onto the E block, and you will be left with a passage going directly to the oil pan. Why does this matter? You can use the E block, tap the hole, and use it as a oil return line for your turbo without worrying about tapping your pan.

The DE uses oil squirters and the E does not.

Connecting rods are interchangeable between E and DE.

The DE uses dished pistons. The E can use two different varieties of pistons, both of which are mostly flat topped. Using the E pistons in the DE results in an increased compression ratio. I went this route when rebuilding my DE. If you do this, you MUST use at least 93 octane gas or you WILL experience detonation.

Those are about the only notable things I found interchangeable. Everything else for the most part is different and won't work.

ka-t4u
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Thank you so much mathew for all this information, it really helped me a lot!!!

now for the armonic balancers can i just use the two of them that my engines already have???

and about the oil stuff... i can't put my de head on the right due to the timing chain and stuff... am i right??

thank you so much!!1 and i will also like to know if this setups has given you any problems???

it nice to know i can interchange rods because i needed one!!!lol.. that was a question i was saving for later! but thanks for answering it!!!apreciate your help, and hope you can help me out with further problems!!!

Oliver... liver...


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