I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

[gordonliu]

doing an sr swap in my sohc s13. i had a few questions:

if I upgrade to a Nismo FPR do i need the "fuel pressure regulator fitting" that for some reason doesnt come with the fuel pressure regulator?

to use AC (with s13 sr20 in a car with SOHC piping/plumbing) i need:

custom linescustom bracket to mount SOHC compressor to sr

[redtop91]

if I upgrade to a Nismo FPR do i need the "fuel pressure regulator fitting" that for some reason doesnt come with the fuel pressure regulator?

If you have the Type B yes you do, for the type A no adapter is necessary.

to use AC (with s13 sr20 in a car with SOHC piping/plumbing) i need:

custom linescustom bracket to mount SOHC compressor to sr

Yep.

[giodachamp]

Tell me why alot of people that actually dyno their KA24de get a reading way below the specs that says it produces 155 hp and 160lbft of torque? Do i really have 155hp under my hood? just wondering....

[redtop91]

More specifically you have 155hp at the crankshaft/flywheel/clutch intersection point. Because of the nature of a transmission (to convert high revolutions to useable torque) the is a loss of some power by the time power reaches the wheels. It's something to the effect of 40% loss in most motors. To give you an idea stock SR's dyno between 170 and 180 whp. Your KA probably has between 105 and 115whp/wtq.

[adrianfromthecastle]

It's something to the effect of 40% loss in most motors.

40%??? nooo... more like 15%... 40's over exagerated dude... lol. anyways, take that 15% off of sticker hp, and also take into account of how many years old your engine is... basically makes it -100rwhp...

[PapaSmurf2k3]

40%??? nooo... more like 15%... 40's over exagerated dude... lol. anyways, take that 15% off of sticker hp, and also take into account of how many years old your engine is... basically makes it -100rwhp...

+1Although it depends on the efficiency of your transmissions, the driveline layout (FWD, RWD, AWD) etc. FWD has the least ammount of loss, AWD has the highest. This is why most economy cars are FWD. They are cheaper to build, and tend to get better gas mileage.~15% is FWD~20% is RWD~25% is AWD

just to give you an idea (note, these are approximate values).

[giodachamp]

+1Although it depends on the efficiency of your transmissions, the driveline layout (FWD, RWD, AWD) etc. FWD has the least ammount of loss, AWD has the highest. This is why most economy cars are FWD. They are cheaper to build, and tend to get better gas mileage.~15% is FWD~20% is RWD~25% is AWD

just to give you an idea (note, these are approximate values).

40%??? nooo... more like 15%... 40's over exagerated dude... lol. anyways, take that 15% off of sticker hp, and also take into account of how many years old your engine is... basically makes it -100rwhp...

More specifically you have 155hp at the crankshaft/flywheel/clutch intersection point. Because of the nature of a transmission (to convert high revolutions to useable torque) the is a loss of some power by the time power reaches the wheels. It's something to the effect of 40% loss in most motors. To give you an idea stock SR's dyno between 170 and 180 whp. Your KA probably has between 105 and 115whp/wtq.

alright.... so i probably have 105 then

[jh3xp]

I was just wondering what this part was.....

and also could it be replaced by this.....

or is the nismo power brace for another part? i was just wondering cus the thingy i circled was cracked on my car . im not that good with cars so thanx for the help in advance

[adrianfromthecastle]

I was just wondering what this part was.....

I forgot the exact name, but its basically there to align your tension control rods... these

and also could it be replaced by this.....

YUP! Its actually a pretty beefy upgrade. In the pic you provided up top, that little aluminum bar in the middle (thing thing the guy's holding) actually replicates the nismo power brace... but its not nearly as strong (because its not steel, and its not welded into 1 peice).

if you already have other aftermarket suspension parts (i.e. coilovers, swaybars, and strut bars), you can actually feel the improvement in handling. Make sure after you install it to get an alignment asap..

IMO, that's the only thing I'd rock from Nismo on my s13, LOL.

[giodachamp]

there's going to be another group buy for the xenon lip.... I know you guys have or had a xenon lip on your chuki and you all know that it looks clean .. I'm just gonna ask if it is an easy install and if it fits perfectly. thanks

[Death By Thrash Metal]

Ive always kinda wondered how the gtr tuners switch to rwd, bcuz its actually a fair price to pickup an rb26+transmission (compared to rb26+rb25tranny seperate)... i mean if they can do it using the rb26 transmission y couldnt the swappers? is it one of those crazy aftermarket trannies that they use? ive done some searching and i found no tuts or info...What do you guys think?edit:There are a couple of ways the R32 GTR can be run in RWD.

1. Remove the 4WD fuse from the fuse box in the engine bay.Removing the fues will cause the GTR to run in RWD until the fuse is put back in.

2. While the car is rolling, turn the car completly off (turn off turbo timer) and turn the car back on after a couple of seconds. (Try not to be going too fast when you turn the car off as you will loose the power steering and power assisted breaks.) The car will be in RWD mode until the wheels stop turning, then the 4WD will be activated again.

I have tried and tested both methods, they work fine and never caused any related problems. (apart from some bald rear tyres) found that somewhere...maybe we could work on removing the front driveshaft and goin into the ecu to make rwd permanent? it would be a ton cheaper to do that then rb25tranny+rb26... by at least a thousand the first time through and then after more and more pple do it it would become the full price of the transmission, and i think the rb26 swap would actually be a reasonable cost... (5k er so give or take what you do... engine mounts downpipes driveshaft mckinney vs homebrew)Inputs? Ideas? goahead and tell me if i wrote somthing wrong above, i will go back and change it asap.

Modified by Death By Thrash Metal at 12:03 AM 9/16/2007Edit2: I just got off the phone with my mustang friend (the one who thinks his 150hp 3.8l v6 is bad ***) and get this: he thinks it would be easy to stick a gtr front clip on a 240sx im sorry i just HAD to sayit, i started laughing so hard my parents woke up and now i have to go to bed... but anyway that is just too ****ing halerious!
Modified by Death By Thrash Metal at 12:19 AM 9/16/2007

[adrianfromthecastle]

there's going to be another group buy for the xenon lip.... I know you guys have or had a xenon lip on your chuki and you all know that it looks clean .. I'm just gonna ask if it is an easy install and if it fits perfectly. thanks

the fitment is great depending on how you mount it. What I did with mine's is I added 2 screws per side under the bumper grills for more securement. the trick is, attach the ends where it connects to the bottom of the wheel well before adding any screws to the front.

Ive always kinda wondered how the gtr tuners switch to rwd, bcuz its actually a fair price to pickup an rb26+transmission (compared to rb26+rb25tranny seperate)... i mean if they can do it using the rb26 transmission y couldnt the swappers? is it one of those crazy aftermarket trannies that they use? ive done some searching and i found no tuts or info...What do you guys think?edit:There are a couple of ways the R32 GTR can be run in RWD.

1. Remove the 4WD fuse from the fuse box in the engine bay.Removing the fues will cause the GTR to run in RWD until the fuse is put back in.

2. While the car is rolling, turn the car completly off (turn off turbo timer) and turn the car back on after a couple of seconds. (Try not to be going too fast when you turn the car off as you will loose the power steering and power assisted breaks.) The car will be in RWD mode until the wheels stop turning, then the 4WD will be activated again.

I have tried and tested both methods, they work fine and never caused any related problems. (apart from some bald rear tyres) found that somewhere...maybe we could work on removing the front driveshaft and goin into the ecu to make rwd permanent? it would be a ton cheaper to do that then rb25tranny+rb26... by at least a thousand the first time through and then after more and more pple do it it would become the full price of the transmission, and i think the rb26 swap would actually be a reasonable cost... (5k er so give or take what you do... engine mounts downpipes driveshaft mckinney vs homebrew)Inputs? Ideas? goahead and tell me if i wrote somthing wrong above, i will go back and change it asap.

Modified by Death By Thrash Metal at 12:03 AM 9/16/2007Edit2: I just got off the phone with my mustang friend (the one who thinks his 150hp 3.8l v6 is bad ***) and get this: he thinks it would be easy to stick a gtr front clip on a 240sx im sorry i just HAD to sayit, i started laughing so hard my parents woke up and now i have to go to bed... but anyway that is just too ****ing halerious!

Modified by Death By Thrash Metal at 12:19 AM 9/16/2007

huh?

[gordonliu]

anyone make brackets for the ka sohc ac compressor to fit onto an sr?

I want to get a fpr. I know in the future I will upgrade my intake manifold. will a type b fuel pressure regulator and fitting work if i am using an s13 sr without an upgraded intake manifold (for the time being)?

anyone know of a good place to buy engines in the so cal area?

dont flame me, password jdm and g dimension are both out of engines/clips (im trying to get one within the next 2 weeks).sr20store has some, but I want to increase my number of options.

also those guys are out on frontstreet and im sure if i dug deep i could get better deals.

[redtop91]

40%??? nooo... more like 15%... 40's over exagerated dude... lol. anyways, take that 15% off of sticker hp, and also take into account of how many years old your engine is... basically makes it -100rwhp...

Hahaha I was tired when I wrote that. I was still right about the KA whp guesstimate. I used 15% to tell him that but typed 40. Oh well.

[TheGift]

the SR is lighter than the KA, but I think only something like 50lbs or so.As for the awd question, I'm sure you (well, maybe not you haha jk) could do it, but it would be expensive as hell. I don't think it has ever been done before. At that point you should just buy something awd.

50lbs... not much... but with an FMIC and other add ons prolly would amount to more weight wouldnt you think? prolly idk tho... lol the awd question was just me wonderin... another question tho... i know i read it somewhere on this forum but does anyone have a link that can explain the difference between a redtop, blktop, and a notchtop? lol i just remembered there is prolly another thread for that...

[adrianfromthecastle]

anyone make brackets for the ka sohc ac compressor to fit onto an sr?

actually, there's a company in the works of making one... but goddammit I can't remember the name of the company... I think it was Young and Artless, but I'm not too sure. I remember they were in the process of making it, like I saw designs, but I dont know for sure if they actually made it out for sale yet...

I want to get a fpr. I know in the future I will upgrade my intake manifold. will a type b fuel pressure regulator and fitting work if i am using an s13 sr without an upgraded intake manifold (for the time being)?

I don't see why not. I see people running fpr's with stock intake manifolds

anyone know of a good place to buy engines in the so cal area?

RnD Factory has clips at pretty decent prices (I got mine's from there). Although, through the years, I've heard their customer service has started to turn into crap. I'm not too fond of Edward (the owner), but when my buddy Jack used to work there, everything was in tip top shape. Anyways, with customer service aside, you still won't be dissapointed by the clips they have... and I'm pretty sure they'll either meet or beat other prices on clips sold at other shops.

but... If you want quality... I have never, and I mean never.. heard anything bad about sr20store. I've heard a few bad reviews on just about every shop around SoCal, except sr20store. I'm not too sure how much their clips are, but ask anyone around that knows about sr20store, and they'll tell you that Marco at sr20store is the guy you wanna deal with if you want quality rebuilds, decking, or just a basic swap. Although pricings gonna have to accomodate the quality service.

[adrianfromthecastle]

50lbs... not much... but with an FMIC and other add ons prolly would amount to more weight wouldnt you think?

rethink what you just said.... if you boost a ka, the ka's gonna have an fmic as well... in regards to weight, theres nothing an sr20det will have that an equally boosted ka wont.... except the jdm sexiness

does anyone have a link that can explain the difference between a redtop, blktop, and a notchtop? lol i just remembered there is prolly another thread for that...

it's really not that hard to search... I just typed in "redtop blacktop" and came with this on the first of the list zerothread?id=59346

[TheGift]

wow i feel like an idiot coming back and lookin at my last post... as always adrian your a huge help.. and yea idk why i didnt look alittle more b4 i asked about the redtop blacktop thing... actually i really wasnt thinking at all when i posted... you make a great (and obvious) point about the motors... thanks a bunch

rethink what you just said.... if you boost a ka, the ka's gonna have an fmic as well... in regards to weight, theres nothing an sr20det will have that an equally boosted ka wont.... except the jdm sexiness

it's really not that hard to search... I just typed in "redtop blacktop" and came with this on the first of the list zerothread?id=59346

[adrianfromthecastle]

wow i feel like an idiot coming back and lookin at my last post... as always adrian your a huge help.. and yea idk why i didnt look alittle more b4 i asked about the redtop blacktop thing... actually i really wasnt thinking at all when i posted... you make a great (and obvious) point about the motors... thanks a bunch

no worries

[djnicky240]

I have a 92 240sx fastback and was wondering if it came with limited slip diff from factory cause when I smoke the tires on the pavement or kick up gravel on a dirt road I see even tire marks from each side does that mean I have a limited slip diff?

[adrianfromthecastle]

I have a 92 240sx fastback and was wondering if it came with limited slip diff from factory cause when I smoke the tires on the pavement or kick up gravel on a dirt road I see even tire marks from each side does that mean I have a limited slip diff?

not necessarily... you can do a quick burnout on an open diff, and it'll show tire marks from both rears. Go under your car and check your diff if it has an orange sticker that says LSD on it.more info here zerothread/168561

[Steven2]

Hey,

If i have money to upgrade a KA24E engine...can it come close to the performance of an sr20det.

Or should i just swap?

[adrianfromthecastle]

Hey,

If i have money to upgrade a KA24E engine...can it come close to the performance of an sr20det.

Or should i just swap?

how much money are we talking here? If its under 1k, then no. If you have more than 1k, just realize that swapping an SR isn't your only option..

[Steven2]

Actually i was looking at 2 cars.

One with a KA24DE and one with a KA24E.

I just called the guy with the KA24DE and i'm picking the car up tomorrow.

I've got an Integra GS-R that im planning on selling.

I'll have about $5,000 to put into my 240.

The KA24DE has 170,000 miles.

Do i swap in a sr20det or work with the KA24de?

[adrianfromthecastle]

I just realized that your original question stated a ka24e... if I were you, I wouldn't spend any upgrade money on the sohc.. rather I'd use it on a dohc.

as far as which motor to go with, its all about preference. theres no such thing as which is better than or whatnot..

if you do planning on going turbo with the KA, just be well aware that 170,000 miles is a lot... I'm not gonna say that I haven't seen high miled KA's boosted (my buddy just tossed on a t3 on his KA w/ 150k miles on it early this summer, and to this day is still running), but there are those who just have bad luck.... for example: this.. lol

actually, I dont care what anyone thinks, miles doesn't mean sh1t (well it kinda does), it all about how much abuse its gone through...

anyways, do a bit more research on what engine suits your needs. If that 170k motor looks good to you, and the guy gives it to you for a good deal, I say go for it. $5,000 is plenty enough to boost you past the 350hp mark on either engine, reliably.

[Steven2]

The SR20DET engine w/ swap would be around $3500.

What steps would u take to reach that 350hp mark w/ $1500 left?

Or would that be impossible with $1500?

Or should i spend the rest on suspension (its got eibach springs)?

Suggestions?

[Vyper28]

Hey, just purchased a '91 240sx and i'm loving it, but i'm kinda stuck on my first step of post-purchase love~ I dl'd the FSM from the forums here and browsed it, but it's pretty tough to work from a computer screen so i decided the best idea would be to buy a haynes or chilton manual.

Problem is, Apparently Haynes doesn't make one, and Chiltons manual has like 3 cars in it? Is it worth purchasing the chilton 200sx/stanza/240sx conglomeration manual, or is there a better option? Seems like a 3-in-one manual might be hard to navigate? Thanks in advance, and man... i love this car.

[lxYaoxl]

hello, im new here and interested in buying a 240sx, but was wondering about 89-94 240sx. Do any chukis have manual seatbelts? TIA

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Hey, just purchased a '91 240sx and i'm loving it, but i'm kinda stuck on my first step of post-purchase love~ I dl'd the FSM from the forums here and browsed it, but it's pretty tough to work from a computer screen so i decided the best idea would be to buy a haynes or chilton manual.

Problem is, Apparently Haynes doesn't make one, and Chiltons manual has like 3 cars in it? Is it worth purchasing the chilton 200sx/stanza/240sx conglomeration manual, or is there a better option? Seems like a 3-in-one manual might be hard to navigate? Thanks in advance, and man... i love this car.

Chiltons is junk, you are better off with drawings in the sand. Print out the FSM if it bothers you that much.

hello, im new here and interested in buying a 240sx, but was wondering about 89-94 240sx. Do any chukis have manual seatbelts? TIA

Only in Canada.

[Daddy-O]

(PREFACE: I think this is my first post so I hope I am following the posting etiquette as I understand it.)

Here's my scenario. I have a Kouki with what I believe is minor bumper damage from what appears to be a fender bender that pushed the bumper to the driver's side. The damage isn't really obvious when you look at it but it does mess up the alignment of the lights, bumper cover bolt holes, gaps, etc. pulling everything to the left.

I have measured the bumper while off the car and it appears to be pretty square with the exception of the mounting arms that actually bolt to the frame/unibody. The majority of the damage involves the bolts mounted into the frame and the metal forward of that.







My dilemma is whether to break down and send it to the auto body shop or start hammering myself. The shops that I can get to look at it want to put it on the frame machine ($300 to start) and blah, blah (spend more money). I am obviously not a body man but, if all they would do is hammer the snot out of it, I can do that with some experienced advice on how to hammer and with what.

I want to build my car up properly and within a budget (wife & 4 kids). I am starting with the physical appearance (wife won't drive it unless I do) and maintenance first before I tear into modifications (per AZHitman's advice on his build up). I have to fix this first in order to position new fenders, prep for paint, and so on.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!