yikes...psychofiend wrote:about that bad..
good luck... if the average of the estimates come out to be more than around 1500 (which I think it will), I'd say scrap it and buy a new 240. You can just use your current one as a part-out on the classifieds or a parts car.psychofiend wrote:haha, yes... door defintely needs to be replaced. thanks for your help bro, i'll take it around town.
from looking at your sig... I'd say the top left portion of the dent still might show...Scuffed_ChukiCoupe wrote:yo wats up guys. Ive decided to save a 240 instead of scraping the car. The suspension parts broken include my toe control arm, lower control arm, and ruca. To replace them itd be 410. Parts are from megan racing and id order from frsport. Hanys ways. Seeing that i want to save the car, instead of fixing the damge I want to cover it. I got my eye on version select 50mm over fenders. You think it will cover up the damage along the side?
yeah... looks like you're fucXed... but I'd say take it to a body man and see if you'll get better hits... its really hard to judge by online photos... it might actually be better than it looks (you better hope so)Scuffed_ChukiCoupe wrote:oh man i just realized it looks like i dosent extend below the black molding line that goes around the car does it? It wouldnt look right then.
I dunno about making the descision easier, but 240 will most likely be cheaper, and will be easier to work on. Maaaaybe get better mileage too. A 300zx (turbo) will be a lot faster though, and you could get great performance out of it without major modifications.TheGift wrote:Sooo much info on just this one thread its amazing...adrian is just the man to see with just about any inquiry it seems... soooo i have a question which may be a bit lame but... either way..im lookin into getin a 91' 240 with a 141k on it.. tx car so i guess no rust... but i cant get over drivin a 300z
off hand besides the obvious reasons of car weight and engine size... is there any other pros and cons that you could think off to help aid me in my decision making process?
sigh...Death By Thrash Metal wrote:Im back with another stupid *** question(s).But im less nubby than i was b4: SEARCH BUTTON RULES! So uhh what do you guys think: i want a coupe, and i deff want a rb swap, but im on a budget (never saw that coming did you? ) so should i go s13 or s14. I like s14 body far better and i wouldnt rice it out with skyline lights or anything... i think (only time would tell), but s13 more available on ebay at least and the rb install would be easier on the s13 right? I mean couldnt i like do a s14 front end conv and then do somthing with the tail lights?and another thing, i really dont have anywhere to take the car to put the rb in. big deal. i can do it its not that bad, but recently i read the superstreet rb25 install, and they said you have to lower the car unto the engine... Does it have to be done that way? Or could i drop in the transmission then the engine and then bolt up?if it is the only way could you give me an idea how to achive this without a big *** hydrolic lifter, safely (im not gonna roll my car around on jacks man... not even for an rb25, well i might take that back)? that last one is a real brain teaser
I'd say test drive both of them... that'll be your real answer. I've never had the opportunity to drive a Z32 before, so I couldn't tell youTheGift wrote:Sooo much info on just this one thread its amazing...adrian is just the man to see with just about any inquiry it seems... soooo i have a question which may be a bit lame but... either way..im lookin into getin a 91' 240 with a 141k on it.. tx car so i guess no rust... but i cant get over drivin a 300z
off hand besides the obvious reasons of car weight and engine size... is there any other pros and cons that you could think off to help aid me in my decision making process?
Dunno for sure, but I dont see why not? I mean people do 5 speed swaps on KA's all the time... the only difference I see is just the transmission and ecuredtop91 wrote:Mechanically and electrically, Auto SR = Manual SR correct? Basically if I get an auto SR to rebuild, when I pull my current, the transmission and wiring will hook up the same correct?
well im going to be honest to you... rb20 is kind of retarted choice: easier swap sr, with dam near same specs (transmission ect) the whole deal with my budget is i cant buy all those fancy mainfolds and such at once... it has to be spread out... 5k should be enough for a year or 6months according to more than a few pple and my calculations for my hp goals.I wasnt sure about the whole swap rb into s13/14 because i dont want to go in and find out its like 10x easier to do an s13 than s14 or like the s14 is way more $. I really like the s14 body... oem is pretty nice and is amazing with a mild body kit.I actually have more than 50hrs driving undermy belt... many cars with different wheelbases... i can feel the difference but it really doesnt bother me, its more about the amount of sway which is an easy aftermarket fix. I just hate the s13 pop ups... reminds me of my dads old corvette (it was around for 19 years untill i was like 10) its just one of those almost subconcious, "god damit dad" things... and the silvia fron end conversion doesnt quite float my brick very well...im glad to hear that your buddy can do it... im assuming he puts it in with the 5speed bolted on? all the guides ive seen do from below... the dvd superstreet... random sites... if you could have him email me some pics... that would be great! or just post them here... ill go unlock my email so he can do it...ty again adrian... i kno u hate me so extra thanks!adrians_s13 wrote:sigh...
don't buy a car based primarily on what engine you want.... if your good and you know you are, you can make the engine you want fit in anything. And if you're on a "so called" budget... I wouldnt even consider an rb25... rb20's are a ton cheaper (about the same price as SR clips) and fit like a glove (in s13's). IMO, choose a car based on other performance or aesthetic aspects that come stock with it (i.e. interior space, wheel base length, weight, etc.) and have fun with it. I can almost garuantee that your mind about what to do for power will change a few times.
and about the process of dropping in an RB... I've never heard of that method before. My buddy does RB20 and RB25 swaps on a regular basis in his back yard, and he doesn't have a garage lift.
well i personally think that a 240sx is better for long run: 4 seater 240>2+2 or 2 300zx. also an engine swap for a non turbo 300zx is rediculous! but if you want power cheaply i would go 300zxtt those things are the ****! i chose not to get one bcuz after seeing the hastles of a small car from ridingaround with my dad i think ill avoid it... 240sx definantly has some issues for hard core modding... but they are mostly just annoyances it seems. both are great cars but 300zx turns more heads as long as it is nice clean paint w/out rice kit (man i c a reg na 300zx with a body kit extends about 3inces from the wheel wells and has chromed out 2004 350z rims... looks really really horrid!!!!! not to mention a 4inch single exhaust can that is annoyingly loud... uhh dont even get me started about the driver and his music...)but the 300zx tt has a good potential considering you can get away with like 400hp and be carb legal legitimatly. hell you can even swap out for sport 5xxs and then when testing comes around you can either try it out and see if you pass (i dont know why you wouldnt, there shouldnt be much of a difference in your nx/co2 levels) or if you are very concerned just swap in the original turbos, if you have the originals that is. Only problem i noticed with the 300zxtt is the engine bay is sooo cramped...definantly drive both to get a good feeling... if you can try driving or be driven in after market versions to feel if you want to go aftermarket that is... (im guessing you do want to go into afkmrkt btw)TheGift wrote:Sooo much info on just this one thread its amazing...adrian is just the man to see with just about any inquiry it seems... soooo i have a question which may be a bit lame but... either way..im lookin into getin a 91' 240 with a 141k on it.. tx car so i guess no rust... but i cant get over drivin a 300z
off hand besides the obvious reasons of car weight and engine size... is there any other pros and cons that you could think off to help aid me in my decision making process?
Depending on where you live and who you know, I've actually seen RB20 clips being sold for a couple hundred less than SR20s... I mean I can hardly call an inline 6 turbo charged 2 liter engine that costs less than SR's a retarded choice... true, its power and transmission specs are similar to that of an SR, but its potential is greater.Death By Thrash Metal wrote:well im going to be honest to you... rb20 is kind of retarted choice: easier swap sr, with dam near same specs (transmission ect)
haha, he actually started a thread about his swaps...zerothread?id=160648Death By Thrash Metal wrote:im glad to hear that your buddy can do it... im assuming he puts it in with the 5speed bolted on? all the guides ive seen do from below... the dvd superstreet... random sites... if you could have him email me some pics... that would be great! or just post them here... ill go unlock my email so he can do it...
hate? haha never that..Death By Thrash Metal wrote:ty again adrian... i kno u hate me so extra thanks!
ty for link. fck the police man! fck em HARD! those jerkoffs...uhh leme put it this way.... everyone who knows 2 things about cars drives either a mustang, or their dadys porsche around here. No JDM tuner types... and all you need for the rb25 is a custom driveshaft which i can get a nice one from Mckinney... but if you compare the rb25 to the rb20 drive shafts... the rb20's is like half the diameter and looks like a play toy.Uhh... i think that you are supposed to use an rb25 transmission... you need custom engine mounts to keep it from hiting the top of the transmission tunnel and to have it bolt up correctly.adrians_s13 wrote:Depending on where you live and who you know, I've actually seen RB20 clips being sold for a couple hundred less than SR20s... I mean I can hardly call an inline 6 turbo charged 2 liter engine that costs less than SR's a retarded choice... true, its power and transmission specs are similar to that of an SR, but its potential is greater.
The thing with the RB25's tho, I think you'll need a custom transmission. That's something not necessary with RB20s
anyways, here some more useful info to bookmarkhttp://www.meggala.com/nissanrb3css.htm
haha, he actually started a thread about his swaps...zerothread?id=160648
He doesn't do swaps from his backyard anymore. He actually got in trouble by the police and because of that, he spent some time in jail (operating a business without a license). It was kinda dumb, because he really didn't intend on it being a "business," he's just a mechanic that wants to help people get drifting, and in gratitude, recieve donations for him pass time hobbies, motor swaps, LOL.
anyways, he's legit now.. haha... he actually uses a shop with a license
hate? haha never that..
The RB's a great choice... I woulda went with that route if it wasn't for the ugly asss intake manifold (oh and the extra money)...
yea i know the engine bays on the z has no space for ANYTHING... its insane how everything is cramed so close together.. but like you guys all said 240 is prolly cheaper and so are most aftermarket parts but the z has more power off the bat... so that kinda my dilemma but i really think that weight is going to play a big part i would really like to try and build a car a could "attempt" to drift with just for ****s to see if im good or what ever... hell just to have fun i guess... and i have seen some z's pull drifting but everyone knows that the 240 is a real drift car cauz of the weight with a z it like almost a 1000 lbs of weight difference.. so wouldnt that also mean for just daily driving worst mileage too? idk i read a post some where that really opend my eyes to weight...so of course now thats all i think about while looking for cars.. the guys said if you think about it you lose a 100 lbs from a 240 that makes more of a difference than 100lbs removed from a 300.. the percentage of weight lost is greater for the 240.. this is really an obvious fact i just never thought about that b4...so this is where im at...240 lighter... with a SR quick too... 300 heaver... faster from the start...Death By Thrash Metal wrote:well i personally think that a 240sx is better for long run: 4 seater 240>2+2 or 2 300zx. also an engine swap for a non turbo 300zx is rediculous! but if you want power cheaply i would go 300zxtt those things are the ****! i chose not to get one bcuz after seeing the hastles of a small car from ridingaround with my dad i think ill avoid it... 240sx definantly has some issues for hard core modding... but they are mostly just annoyances it seems. both are great cars but 300zx turns more heads as long as it is nice clean paint w/out rice kit (man i c a reg na 300zx with a body kit extends about 3inces from the wheel wells and has chromed out 2004 350z rims... looks really really horrid!!!!! not to mention a 4inch single exhaust can that is annoyingly loud... uhh dont even get me started about the driver and his music...)but the 300zx tt has a good potential considering you can get away with like 400hp and be carb legal legitimatly. hell you can even swap out for sport 5xxs and then when testing comes around you can either try it out and see if you pass (i dont know why you wouldnt, there shouldnt be much of a difference in your nx/co2 levels) or if you are very concerned just swap in the original turbos, if you have the originals that is. Only problem i noticed with the 300zxtt is the engine bay is sooo cramped...definantly drive both to get a good feeling... if you can try driving or be driven in after market versions to feel if you want to go aftermarket that is... (im guessing you do want to go into afkmrkt btw)
totalled doesn't sound so good. Any pics? i wouldn't trust modding anything that was "totalled." If anything, I'd spend my money on restoring it first. Any pics?300TT wrote:So i just bought a 240sx that needs major boddy work and restorations from rust and a bad rearend collision from a while back. it has over 130,000 miles on it and it is also totaled..... the body work isnt a problem its just that as soon as i get her looking nice again i wanted to put in a few modifications so i can race it. So if you have any ideas of what i should put in it or any opions let me know. and im also on a pretty low budget i only make 600 a month. (I bought it for $400)
A loan? How much of a loan are you trying to get? I wouldn't spend more than $2,000 on a stock s13 coupe...hachi8roku6 wrote:i am in the market for a 240sx, preferable a '92 coupe, the only problem is the only i could grab one is threw a loan, and i don't think the loan will cover the full amount because everyone sells them more than what the loan will cover, so i'm just asking for advice and opinions, anything will help, thanks!
You do realize that a bank will NOT finance you for a car bought from a private party?hachi8roku6 wrote:i am in the market for a 240sx, preferable a '92 coupe, the only problem is the only i could grab one is threw a loan, and i don't think the loan will cover the full amount because everyone sells them more than what the loan will cover, so i'm just asking for advice and opinions, anything will help, thanks!