I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

[Zee]

Do you guys know if this is a direct replacement?

http://www.intensepower.com/cs-702fr.html

[adrianfromthecastle]

Do you guys know if this is a direct replacement?

http://www.intensepower.com/cs-702fr.html

replacement? as in "out with the old, in with the new?" If thats what you mean, then no.

Theyre just 50mm fiberglass over fenders that you rivet to your existing quarter panels. The purpose of these are to accomodate to wheels that have such a lower offset and wider width that without them, the wheels would stick out of your existing quarter panels. Most people just chop up the part of the fender that gets rolled, then add that over.

Just imagine it as the "quarter panel" version of fender flares, same concept, different look.

edit: I found a cool thread for you to look at zerothread/236662
Modified by adrians_s13 at 10:39 AM 8/31/2007

[Scuffed_ChukiCoupe]

The worst news EVER guys, ill tell all tomorro right now i need sleep.

[Pyrokid]

Ok, here's my story. I'm 17 and looking to do 240sx project car. Money really isn't an issue because I have parents who are willing to shell out a good bit of cash. I have been doing a good bit of research about this but still have a few questions. 1. If I do the S15 conversion how should i do it? use fiberglass fenders or metal ones? 2. Should I do the engine swap first or the conversion first? 3. What kind of radiator should I use for the RB26DETT? 4. Just how impossible are R34 RB26DETT's to find? 5. Should I keep the stock 240sx rear end or should I drop a new in? 6. Does anyone know a good interior shop around the DC area?

Any other tricks or tips are also greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much

[adrianfromthecastle]

just an FYI, you just came off as every other 240 fanboy that starts off after reading Import Tuner or watching Tokyo Drift. anyways, its the Newb section, so I'll be easy. Generally speaking, I'd recommend you to hang around more, go to any local 240sx meets, and start physically learning what actually makes power, and what goes where as far as front ends conversions go. More or less, you'll realize whats "rice" and what's not, *hint, lol.

1. If I do the S15 conversion how should i do it? use fiberglass fenders or metal ones?

iirc, they only come as fiberglass, not metal ( they don't use real s15 fenders, they use conversion fenders made to accomodate whatever chasssis you have, i.e. s13/s14).

2. Should I do the engine swap first or the conversion first?

you should probably start off by getting the car first.

3. What kind of radiator should I use for the RB26DETT?

oem rb26 rad or koyo (or any other multi row aluminum), depending on what you can make fit. check out the RB section to get real deal info.

4. Just how impossible are R34 RB26DETT's to find?

who told you finding rb26's are impossible? you act like its a legendary pokemon or something lol.

5. Should I keep the stock 240sx rear end or should I drop a new in?

what's so bad about the rear end that you have to change it?

6. Does anyone know a good interior shop around the DC area?

check out the local regional forums on nico to find other owners nearby, maybe they can help you find what you need.

Any other tricks or tips are also greatly appreciated.

when you get your car, don't touch your engine or front end (unless for fixing what's broken). change out your bushings (get energy bushings) and get some suspension, and not some cheap sh1t, get some real deal coilovers. Then toss away your open diff (if you still have it) and get a viscous lsd, or any other type of lsd for that matter. Educate yourself on wheel selection and what type of wheels actually fit, dont get some skinny 18" wheel with some +50 offset or anything like that. Also, before you upgrade, make sure you fix the problems first, instead of overlooking them. good luck

[redtop91]

LOL Adrian covered it all. You need to drive a 240sx before you decide to chuck the KA for an RB26. I'm pretty certain you've never driven a light weight RWD car but the power and torque that anything above 300whp affords in a car of this type makes for a VERY fast car. Irregardless if your parents are willing to invest 10k in something that once it's done will be less reliable, look the same, and be a pain to buy parts for, you'll need to consult mckinney motorsports for RB swap parts. You might as well just buy an R32 RB26 but like Adrian said, it's not anything rare... kind of similar to calling an LS1 out of a Camaro rare.... You'd be better suited understanding the 240sx as a chassis before undertaking any projects. I assure you being around a community of S-Chassis owners for about a year will change your goals entirely

[Pyrokid]

Thanks for all the advice. I know I may have came off like a fan boy but i've thinking about doing a project car for about a year, and I decided on a 240sx about 4 months ago. I know I may not have driven light RWD cars, but I have driven some cars with a good bit of power. I'll deffantely go to some meets.

[Scuffed_ChukiCoupe]

Theoretically speaking here, lets say i have a 91 coupe which was totaled in the back end. I happen to come across a black 93 coupe with a pig nose front end for some end. Can i swap every part from my fenders forward, sort of like a piggy-chuki type conversion. Everything would line up right?

[BB1LOVIN]

yea spare the flames haha im a current honda owner and im planning to get a 240sx.

i was wondering if anyone can give me some info on what the differences between a SR20 RED/BLACK top are.

[adrianfromthecastle]

Theoretically speaking here, lets say i have a 91 coupe which was totaled in the back end. I happen to come across a black 93 coupe with a pig nose front end for some end. Can i swap every part from my fenders forward, sort of like a piggy-chuki type conversion. Everything would line up right?

wait what? a 93 pignose? anyways, everything would match... all hatches have the same structure, as well as all coupes (doesn't matter what year). As far as mixing fenders and bumpers, they'll fit, but theres imperfections that may or may not show (mine does).

yea spare the flames haha im a current honda owner and im planning to get a 240sx.

i was wondering if anyone can give me some info on what the differences between a SR20 RED/BLACK top are.

zerothread?id=59346

[I Go To Costco]

Hi, first post, former Integra owner looking for a car with torque. I'm looking to buy a 89-93 240SX fastback. What should I look for when test driving and inspecting the car? Besides the obvious, you know, like leaks. I know about cracked dashes, and umm yeah.

Basically I just look for funny business, like overheating, funny noises, etc. but what may I overlook with a 240sx that may not be common on other cars?

[Scuffed_ChukiCoupe]

Yea adrian, i heard chuki front bumpers wont line up at the fender line of a pig nose bumper, but im taking my chuki bumper and fenders, hood and headlights. Im hoping itll all light up, just wanted to ask someone.

[adrianfromthecastle]

Hi, first post, former Integra owner looking for a car with torque. I'm looking to buy a 89-93 240SX fastback. What should I look for when test driving and inspecting the car? Besides the obvious, you know, like leaks. I know about cracked dashes, and umm yeah.

Basically I just look for funny business, like overheating, funny noises, etc. but what may I overlook with a 240sx that may not be common on other cars?

as far as sounds go, try to hear if theres any tapping on the valve cover, check the oil, check the block to see if its leaking oil, check under the car to see if theres any oil dripping. A common problem with KA's are the timing chain guides, which noticeably tap and click over time.

and as far as looking at the car, rust is a must. please look thoroughly through the engine bay, hatch, wheel wells, rear quarter panels, door jams, etc. Also, if you can (i doubt), try to get the car on a lift so that you can see under the car for any frame or suspension imperfections. Just make sure the wheels and tires are in the exact middle of the wheel wells (my cousin bought 2 240s in which there was frame damage without the previous owner saying so, basically we found bent arms and slightly off frame rails).

[adrianfromthecastle]

Yea adrian, i heard chuki front bumpers wont line up at the fender line of a pig nose bumper, but im taking my chuki bumper and fenders, hood and headlights. Im hoping itll all light up, just wanted to ask someone.

yeah its wierd... if you use a pignose fender and a chuki bumper, the sharp pointy part of the fender that connects to the bumper doesn't contact... but its only noticeable from up close... I mean I'm rocking a pignose fender (driverside) and no one really notices, I have to tell them

[DoshKel]

Hello. This is my first post, and I am very close to buying a completely stock 1990 240sx. The only problem that the owner and I have discussed is that it has a little paint chipping on the bumper. The car is at 140,000 miles, so I am a little concerned. He will let me see the car, but says that he can't meet me due to having two jobs. Does anyone have some advice, or a list of what I should look for when seeing the car to make sure I am not getting a bad car? The price is $1400, which also concerns me because it is so cheap. Thanks for any help and advice . Hope to meet everyone soon.

[adrianfromthecastle]

Hello. This is my first post, and I am very close to buying a completely stock 1990 240sx. The only problem that the owner and I have discussed is that it has a little paint chipping on the bumper. The car is at 140,000 miles, so I am a little concerned. He will let me see the car, but says that he can't meet me due to having two jobs. Does anyone have some advice, or a list of what I should look for when seeing the car to make sure I am not getting a bad car? The price is $1400, which also concerns me because it is so cheap. Thanks for any help and advice . Hope to meet everyone soon.

rust is a big issue with these old cars. As far as front and rear bumpers go, they're not metal, so the chipped paint he was talking about isn't much to worry about if you're planning on repainting it. Common rust areas are the trunk, near gas cap filler, and basically anywhere where paint has lost contact to the metal body (i.e. any other paint chips, ripples, near weather stripping).

Honestly, in my opinion, the only thing I would worry about as far as buying a car is the body and it's frame rails. Rust and bent frame (or bent anything) usually tells me its a no. I'm no so concerned about how the engine runs and what paint it is, because all that can be fixed or replaced. However fixing rust and trying to "bend" the frame back into its original shape is a hassle not worth being done. Make sure you check thoroughly in the engine bay for rust too (above wheel wells).

as far as the engine goes, it can always be rebuilt or replaced... but if you also want a strong engine from the getgo (who doesnt'), check for common problems such as cold start issues, idle rpms (also when driving, check to see if your engine bogs after tossing it into neutral after a gear), and listen for engine knocking. Also, check the engine for oil (oil leaks as well) and if there is any coolant in the oil (fyi if so, then you have a big problem).

also, just make sure he does the smog check before you purchase.

[DoshKel]

Thanks a lot for that information. It really helps. Hopefully he will leave his car open, or his keys somewhere for me to check everything out. I feel sorta sketched that he isn't going to be there, because I don't know what he might have up his sleeve.

Anyway... thanks again. Hopefully all goes well.

[Zippy69]

ok, been searching a couple of months and from what I found here on nico is that my ka-de can put out upwards of 300+ hp on stock innards. My question is what is the bare min parts list to make close to that figure. I mean what turbo? what injectors? What computer upgrades? Stand alone or piggy? I know very little about turbo applications but I know plenty about cars in general.BTW I have a 93 coupe. lsd,5-lug and intake are the only mods so far

[Jim124]

I was wondering how to figure out if a 240 has LSD stock and if not what kind to get for a setup that would be for drift but still be able to be street-able comfortably Thanks for any help.

[adrianfromthecastle]

Thanks a lot for that information. It really helps. Hopefully he will leave his car open, or his keys somewhere for me to check everything out. I feel sorta sketched that he isn't going to be there, because I don't know what he might have up his sleeve.

Anyway... thanks again. Hopefully all goes well.

good luck bro..

ok, been searching a couple of months and from what I found here on nico is that my ka-de can put out upwards of 300+ hp on stock innards. My question is what is the bare min parts list to make close to that figure. I mean what turbo? what injectors? What computer upgrades? Stand alone or piggy? I know very little about turbo applications but I know plenty about cars in general.BTW I have a 93 coupe. lsd,5-lug and intake are the only mods so far

as far as turbos, i've seen gt2871r easily reach the 330-350hp range at around 12-16psi. The good thing about the t2 turbos is you can reach a decent amount of rwhp without having to wait long for boost to finally kick in.. but then again, I'm an sr guy... search the ka-t threads. iirc, i think the most common turbo ka guys run are th t3/04 hybrids (at least through my perspective). My buddy's running a gt28r (bb t28, very similar to s15 turbo) on his ka-t datsun 510 and is putting about 341 to the wheels. as far as others... look into 550cc injectors, z32 maf, and some sort of piggyback would be a good start.

I was wondering how to figure out if a 240 has LSD stock and if not what kind to get for a setup that would be for drift but still be able to be street-able comfortably Thanks for any help.

ok... one way is to lift your car so that you can easily see your dif. there should be a bright orange sticker that says L.S.D. or something like that. Otherwise, another method is to lift your whole rear end and spin one wheel, if the other wheel spins the opposite way or doesn't spin at all, then its an open diff (i think thats how it goes). Although, i heard that this method doesn't stay true to all other LSD makes and models.

as far as what to get... I say just get a vlsd. Its a good start, its streetable, you'll love it on the touges, and you can still somewhat hang with the drifting... that way you already know how a viscous feels. you can pick up used ones at the junkyard, like j30's, and all you need too are the half shafts. then if you find yourself drifting more than anything else, you'd know that its time for a clutch-type, you can probably sell your vlsd you bought and sell them on the forums for probably the same cost you bought them for. the thing about clutch types is they lock almost as much as a welded (scary in the rain) and depending on what you go with, it can be loud . my buddy has a kaaz 2-way on his s14, and his diff "clanks" when he slowly turns, it sounds like somethings broken, but thats just how it is.

[Zippy69]

Thanks for the info, I have gotten an enormous amount of info from the nico forums, but not exactly what I needed,you really helped alot ! thanks again!

[adrianfromthecastle]

Thanks for the info, I have gotten an enormous amount of info from the nico forums, but not exactly what I needed,you really helped alot ! thanks again!

you should check out ka-t.org, massive amounts of info on boosting your ka

[Jim124]

Thanks for all the help man

[Th1nk]

How do i know what wheels will fit my 95 240? I know only 4 lug will fit without doing a conversion, but other than that i'm clueless any help is appreciated.

[adrianfromthecastle]

How do i know what wheels will fit my 95 240? I know only 4 lug will fit without doing a conversion, but other than that i'm clueless any help is appreciated.

when choosing wheels, there are 3 things that you should consider:1) lug pattern2) wheel size3) offset

*1) assuming you car's 4 lug since you mentioned 4 lug, it will only fit the lug pattern of 4x114.3mm (4x4.5"). The 5 lug 240's you see have the same lug stud diameter, but are just 5 lug, so they are 5x114.3mm (5x4.5").

*2) wheel size is more about preference. Its pretty common for 18" wheels to go on s14's, and for s13's, 17" wheels are pretty ideal. Just try to stay away from the wheel width of 7" or less, because it wouldnt make sense to get a wheel width that you're stock wheels already come with.

*3) offset determines how far in or far out your wheel possition will be in regards to your wheel well and fenders. be aware that other cars share the same lug patter. for example, Honda Accords have the lug pattern of 4x114.3, but their offsets are much higher than wheels intended for the 240sx. If you put on Accord wheels, they will look much "sunken" in, not to mention they may or may not clear you brake calipers. Just remember to choose an offset of anything less than +25 (depending on wheel width).

anyways... look at this thread for what I mean on offset and other stuff I mentionedhttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/265282

the reason why many people convert to 5-lug is because there are usually more wheel options that are in 5 lug as opposed to 4 lug

[gordonliu]

from what I can tell the real differences between the redtop and blacktop s13 sr20 are

blacktops in general may have lower mileagethey have the fins on the blockdifferences in the IACV idle control

i would prefer lower mileage, but if there is absolutely no difference whatsoever beyond the age of the engine, I can handle spending the 400 dollar difference in price on repairs and preventative maintenance.

[adrianfromthecastle]

from what I can tell the real differences between the redtop and blacktop s13 sr20 are

blacktops in general may have lower mileagethey have the fins on the blockdifferences in the IACV idle control

i would prefer lower mileage, but if there is absolutely no difference whatsoever beyond the age of the engine, I can handle spending the 400 dollar difference in price on repairs and preventative maintenance.

yeah basically. But don't get confused with the s13 blacktop with the s14 blacktop (aka notchtop). S14 blacktops came with vvt and a t28 turbo.

as far as s13 redtop vs s13 blacktop... you basically nailed the main points. And really, it doesn't matter too much on the mileage... it matters more on the way the previous owner drove it. I'd rather take a well maintained 70k miled redtop over a 10k tracked blacktop...

zerothread?id=59346

[Jim124]

Are there any swaps for the 240 that could be done that would pass the smog checks and other checks they run.......basically im looking for a 240 to buy and dont know if i should try and find a KA with lower mileage or try for higher mileage 240 and swap a CA or SR into it still pass those dam tests.

[psychofiend]

question, maybe you guys can help..

bought the car below for 2,500.

damaged it soon there after.

think the cost of fixing will be more than what i paid originally?

if so, i'll probably ditch and buy another cheapy.

[adrianfromthecastle]

Are there any swaps for the 240 that could be done that would pass the smog checks and other checks they run.......basically im looking for a 240 to buy and dont know if i should try and find a KA with lower mileage or try for higher mileage 240 and swap a CA or SR into it still pass those dam tests.

actually, with no mods and stock cat, the CA and the SR can pass the sniffer, they just won't pass the visual (engines were not listed in the EPA's list of engines).

basic rule of engine swaps to keep it legal is it must be from a vehicle of the same or newer year and must come from a vehicle that was introduced into the US market.

otherwise... you better make good friends with a smog tester.

question, maybe you guys can help..

bought the car below for 2,500.

damaged it soon there after.

think the cost of fixing will be more than what i paid originally?

if so, i'll probably ditch and buy another cheapy.

depending on the quality of the paint you're gonna use... its gonna come pretty close... how bad is the frame?