About how much you think for a good shell then? Another $1500 or so on top of the $1500 for the motor and whatever? Or more?PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:you can find a clean shell if you are lucky, building it back to DD specs, depends on what it is missing, what it needs. Figure KA motor and transmission, and other miscellaneous items, probably around $1500 plus the cost of the shell. Assuming there are no wiring issues or other weird quircks.
Turning it into a full drift machine... $1500 to get it back to stock, $400 for an R200V Lsd, take some weight out of the car, and your pretty good to go. It doesn't take a lot to make a 240 drift. If you want it to be competition level, then I dunno, add another $3000 for suspension, and another $3000 for a turbo setup I guess...
depends on how far you want to go.
Thanks for the info man, appreciate it!PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:yeah, $800 to $1800 depending on model, condition, how complete it is.
Dunno, I've never looked at the DRLs for 240s. You could always just get some nice HID fog lights or something, and cut out your louvers, and get fancy/creative with it. OR stick them behind the louvers. I've seen that done before, looks decent. Just make sure it doesn't get so hot it burns your bumper.Scuffed_ChukiCoupe wrote:hey papa i can stick hid's in drl's? If so id rather buy drl's that hella h4 kit cause its cheaper
NP man, just remember, these are BALLPARK estimates. Don't be offended if someone offers you something nice for more than I said.midnit wrote:
Thanks for the info man, appreciate it!
Can I get help with this? Papa you did it before why not now? Please you know you want to answer me.Zee wrote:Can I use a aftermarket front bumper that was made for a S15? I am going to get the conversion fenders, conversion hood, and S15 radiator support so the rest is good. Can I do this?
Nah man, I don't deal with any of that JDM crap, or swaps, or any of that crap. That is Adrian's job haha. I'm more for real life problems.Zee wrote:
Can I get help with this? Papa you did it before why not now? Please you know you want to answer me.
I haven't heard of anything bad about CO, but you might want to check out the regional forums and ask there. My guess would be that they will pass you on basically everything except exhaust, and maybe even that if it isn't too obnoxious.13silvia wrote: I'm in the process of searching this subject but looking for imediate info... I'm a 240sx owner moving to Denver Colorado soon and I've been researching the state highway laws to see what I need done to pass the state to state inspection and registration, On the CO state highway web page they're basically stating that you cannot drive a modified vehicle on public road/highways... Everything from head lights to suspension and exhaust noise must not be rendered according to them and You have less than 10 days to comply.
My question while I search is... Do any of you live in Colorado and have you ever done a state to stae inspection or ever been hassled by the cops for having aftermarket/modified parts???
Any help would be greatly appreciated-13silvia
You sound like me, only a lot more knowledgeable about Nissans! Haha!PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Nah man, I don't deal with any of that JDM crap, or swaps, or any of that crap. That is Adrian's job haha. I'm more for real life problems.
heres my theory because I dont know too many people that's going your route.Zee wrote:Can I use a aftermarket front bumper that was made for a S15? I am going to get the conversion fenders, conversion hood, and S15 radiator support so the rest is good. Can I do this?
theres no reason why they shouldn't clear your tie rods. As far as the big brakes, they should clear due to the awesome spoke design, but why such the goofy offset? 17x8 +38 is weak! the 17x9's have a better offset! I'd at least have the same offset of the 8" and the 9", but I'd never go with the thinner wheels a higher offset... but that's just me.Anyways, 1200 isn't a bad deal on some te-37's either.gordonliu wrote:sorry, another question. I did search. lots of good information. still not completely answered and i want to know before i drop 1200 on these wheels.
17x8 +38 front 17x9 +28 rear volk te371990 s13will be lowered between 1.7-2 inchesprobably gonna run 40s
will these clear z32 brakes all around?will i need a fender pull?better offset?will they look stupid (size i mean, te37s are ****ing baller)will they clear big *** spl tie rod ends?
I will love you if you answer this
not sure, but I do know that exhausts have to be on the opposite side of the gas tank and gas cap filler... possibly for weight distribution and safetyness?bone_stock_240 wrote:I have another thing that I have always wondered, but never asked about!!! I notice that in some cars, (99.999% sure I have only noticed this on front wheel drives), the muffler is mounted transversely under the rear bumper. What is the reason for this? I am guessing it is to free up space for the gas tank, to maximize trunk room, while maintaining ground clearance between the muffler and the road. Then I was also thinking the extra piping may serve to quiet down the exhaust noise a little more, but it didn't strike me this would be one of the major reasons for doing it this way (I am not even sure the extra length of piping would function to reduce noise).
Thanks all.
no. DTRL have plastic housings (not to mention the front is plastic too). In any case, H4's itself would be hot enough to melt it, let alone HIDs. Besides, you wouldnt want to put HIDs in the DTRLs, DTRLs dont have any cutoff, you'll be flashing annoying light into on coming drivers.imho, the best HIDs are projector type HIDs.Scuffed_ChukiCoupe wrote:hey papa i can stick hid's in drl's? If so id rather buy drl's that hella h4 kit cause its cheaper
wow... thats pretty harsh... but it seriously can't be as bad as California laws regarding modding your car. But yeah, like Papa said, check out the regional section. Just try not to make your car stick out like a sore thumb and hopefully you'd be ok13silvia wrote: I'm in the process of searching this subject but looking for imediate info... I'm a 240sx owner moving to Denver Colorado soon and I've been researching the state highway laws to see what I need done to pass the state to state inspection and registration, On the CO state highway web page they're basically stating that you cannot drive a modified vehicle on public road/highways... Everything from head lights to suspension and exhaust noise must not be rendered according to them and You have less than 10 days to comply.
My question while I search is... Do any of you live in Colorado and have you ever done a state to stae inspection or ever been hassled by the cops for having aftermarket/modified parts???
Any help would be greatly appreciated-13silvia
well, your only option is the 1157's (or 1156? I forgot which part number it is..)Theres companies that make them in different colors, such as Raybrig or PIAA.Scuffed_ChukiCoupe wrote:So what options do i have for bulbs if i buy dtrls, i wanted a bright yellow. What bulbs do they use.
haha.. I dunno if vatozone carries JDM bulb brands like PIAA or Raybrig. You'd probably have to go to an importer type specialty store (I've actually seen places that sold Hello Kitty stuff sell JDM brand bulbs and air freshners too!). Search the web or any nearby importers if you have any, otherwise drop me a line, I might be able to pick some up and ship it out to you for like 5 bucks (for shipping, not the bulb). I have also have PIAA Hyperwhite wedgebulbs in my JDM turn signals for the parking lights. They are 10x brighter and 10x whiter than the GE oem replacement bulbs you pick up at vatozone (which were pretty dull and yellowish).Scuffed_ChukiCoupe wrote:so i look to buy a bulb number 1157 or 6 in yellow from piaa. I can get this at autozone or straus or something right? They do look pretty bright, thts the look im going for hid's in my headlights when i buy the h4 conversion later, some drls and the half white half amber.
I'm not 100% sure, but I think the point of the thread was to ask questions.GTLegend wrote:wassup i'm a newbie!!! yeahhhhhh!!!!!
haha mos definitely ZeeZee wrote:Adrian you know I love you right?
J/P Thanks for the info on that I really appreciate it.
haha I read that write-up... that sh1tz ghetto. Its basically shutting off your speedo so that your ecu doesn't recognize your rpm range hitting its limit. You'll have to make your own switch, and yeah, 4th and 5th sensors are fine to use (i think).Scuffed_ChukiCoupe wrote:i was reading the diy speed limiter removal thread and i didnt understand this part
The last step is to disconnect a control wire that comes from the transmission area and passes by the passenger side of the starter in the engine compartment. You'll find another simple electrical connection (looks like a tube style fuse holder) with small gauge wire. Unhook this connection and then drive your car and you'll notice the speedometer doesn't work, nor do the number onyour odometer change. What you've disconnected is the sensor that transmits the speed to the ECU and the display.
Do i have to do this? or does removing the 4th and 5th sensors suffice? Will my speedometer work still if i remove the 2 sensors and leave this last part out? OR do i have to do the last part to complete the removal and buy an aftermarket speedometer? idk
Probably just in case gas spills when you are filling up.Adrian wrote:not sure, but I do know that exhausts have to be on the opposite side of the gas tank and gas cap filler... possibly for weight distribution and safetyness?
If you disconnect your 4th and 5th gear sensors you will just be removing the 4th and 5th gear rev limiters (speed limiters). IIRC there are at least 3 on the ECU. Speed (signal that goes to the speedo first, then the ECU, so you can cut it after the speedo and be OK), 4th and 5th gear sensors (you will still be limited in these gears, but the limit will be slightly higher than what the original speed limiter allowd). Yes you can unplug 4th and 5th gear sensors without any ill effects (so I've been told).Scuffed_ChukiCoupe wrote:so if i pull the 4th and 5th transmission sensors what happens? Speedo dsnt work in 4th and 5th. Actually i wouldnt mind disabling my speedo till i get a tune, the crap comes on when it wants to anyways. Half the time i dont know how fast im going.
as far as s13 silvias go, complete s13 silvia front ends can be had for $500-800 complete depending on who you know and where you go. This comes complete with headlights, corner lights, headlight brackets, bumper, fenders, and hood (and if you're lucky, you might even get a silvia grill). Generally speaking, this 500-800 dollar range will give you a pair of silvia projector lights (the ones with the yellow driving lights, oem on silvia Q's). An upgrade (depending on your standpoint) on headlights which generally costs more than projector headlights, are the silvia "bricks" headlights, aka duals (silvia K's), which can cost 150-300 dollars more than projector headlights. Also keep in mind that there are different types of oem silvia bumpers. the ones that usually come with the basic swap package is the Silvia Q's bumper, which looks a lot like a silvia version of the pignose (which actually looks pretty good with teh pignose lip too). For a few more pennies (generally 100-300 more than Q's bumper), the silvia K's bumper can be had (which also looks a lot like the silvia's version of the chuki bumper).1991h9 wrote:where should i go to get a front conversion from a s13 to a silvia or a s15 or a skyline, but i really want a s15, im tryin not to pass the $1000 mark, if possible, thanks