dammit ur rite!! i'm just too excited about gettin one i keep forgettin about all the financial crap...so...what would be the best thing to do?redtop91 wrote:
You do realize that a bank will NOT finance you for a car bought from a private party?
dammit ur rite!! i'm just too excited about gettin one i keep forgettin about all the financial crap...so...what would be the best thing to do?redtop91 wrote:
You do realize that a bank will NOT finance you for a car bought from a private party?
check voltage levels if you can... it might be ur battery or alternator seeing as it died at low speeds where less power is being returned to the battery.if it dies tomorow try getting somone to jump it for you as that should help diagnose ur ordeal.giodachamp wrote:I was driving ni the parking lot today when my 240sx died on me. I think i was in second gear about 3-5 mph when it suddenly died. The unsual thing is, that even my electricals died, so i told myself that i didn't kill the engine. When i pushed it to a parking spot and waited for like 10 minutes, my electricals (clock, etc.) started working again and i started the engine. Then when i went home, i turned it off and tried to start it. then when all the seatbelts and the light went on etc. in my dash and i was about to put it in ignition, it died again killing all my electricals. What could be the problem? Now it's working fine..... I'm just worried that it might happen again tomorrow morning.
Save your money until you can pay cash or get a cash loan or something to that effect if you must. I'd personally save my money and pay cash.hachi8roku6 wrote:
dammit ur rite!! i'm just too excited about gettin one i keep forgettin about all the financial crap...so...what would be the best thing to do?
if you want a great drag car... for simplest/straightforwardest (lol that wasnt a word till now) go for 300zx TT z32. dont bother with z31. that way you can get massive power without swapping engines. But if you want driftcar... drager... road racer... touge car... 240sx smashes it. either rebuild the KA and you get a verypowerful turbo or go Sr or RB. You dont have gay *** carb laws to deal with soo u can easily pass smog with an RB (well not easy as pie, but 1 or 2 cats on a custom modified 240sx oem exhaust should do it). I do but i decided it can suck my d!ck when the worst penalty is a few grand after multiple offenses. I mean look at all the stoners running round with pot in their bags, they hardly ever get caught unless they get ratd out. I wont get caught even if i do get ratd out... because ill "kill em all" (jk im not a pyscopathic slaughterer). No but if i do get caught 200bucks or go to ref station for like 50 bucks after swapping KA in... WHO GIVES A FAT ****? it wont be a huge deal cuz i wont get caught. even though i will try to get my rrb legalized.But what it may come down to is the look department... do you like a kind of skyline reminisnt super coupe? or do you like sportish/exotic level jap style.... that is definantly a hard one. but if your on a budget i would go 240sx baby. From the looks of it im going to get one of ebay in the next 6months... i had also STRONGLY considered the 300zx tt and a 350z convertible... but the 240sx is what i want. and i keep coming back to it every time. Just sleep on it... also what won me over was the look of a single exhaust on a sedan(coupe) just seems badass to me. I do like dual exhausts but... supercoupe has a place in my heart!~EDIT 2~mciny has an rb26dett swap kit that says its as easy as an original engine swap. Iam baffled by this aswell as their slave cylinder master for the rb25det transmition... would i need the slave clyinder thing? i mean if i get the transmission all i need are mounts, oil, engine, and the drive shaft right? or does their mount for rb26tt not actually mean factory turbos? I think i will go for the rb26 simply beccause the money i would spend to get a decent rb25 i could spend on a slightly less powerful rb26 but have tons more rarity and potential (boost controller should get me to 4-500hp right?)Yikes... so many questions eh?TheGift wrote:
yea i know the engine bays on the z has no space for ANYTHING... its insane how everything is cramed so close together.. but like you guys all said 240 is prolly cheaper and so are most aftermarket parts but the z has more power off the bat... so that kinda my dilemma but i really think that weight is going to play a big part i would really like to try and build a car a could "attempt" to drift with just for ****s to see if im good or what ever... hell just to have fun i guess... and i have seen some z's pull drifting but everyone knows that the 240 is a real drift car cauz of the weight with a z it like almost a 1000 lbs of weight difference.. so wouldnt that also mean for just daily driving worst mileage too? idk i read a post some where that really opend my eyes to weight...so of course now thats all i think about while looking for cars.. the guys said if you think about it you lose a 100 lbs from a 240 that makes more of a difference than 100lbs removed from a 300.. the percentage of weight lost is greater for the 240.. this is really an obvious fact i just never thought about that b4...so this is where im at...240 lighter... with a SR quick too... 300 heaver... faster from the start...
im torn..
for an SR swap, you'll need the motor, transmission, ecu, and wiring harness. Its a direct swap (since sr20's came in the car in Japan), so you don't need custom mounts or driveshafts.MdR510 wrote:i was looking at doing a project car and i came to the conclusion that i wanted to do a newer 240sx with a sr20 swap...now for the question. What would i need to changwe/ get if i wanted to do this project? (trans., axle,etc.) thanks you very much for any in formation....the more info. the better. thanks
but our hood latches are cable controlled.... anybody else have an idea on what this thing is? my ac/horn/headlights are all still working the same, i dont' mind leaving it unplugged, just wanna know what the damned thing is.Death By Thrash Metal wrote:damit this forum eats my brains and homework time! lolI am willing to bet a few bucks that it is the mechanism that releases your hood lock when you pull the latch in your car... u understand what im saying? bcuz that is the only electronic thing related to your hood. i would suggest getting locked hood pins or somthing. otherwise i dunno how you will open your hood....
I'm not too sure as to what that thing is, but I remember asking about it myself a while back, and I think we came to the conclusion that it had something to do with the A/C, like an outside air temp sensor or something. I took mine out, smashed it, burned it, and pissed on the ashes with no ill effects.nismoracingsx wrote:
but our hood latches are cable controlled.... anybody else have an idea on what this thing is? my ac/horn/headlights are all still working the same, i dont' mind leaving it unplugged, just wanna know what the damned thing is.
Yeah for the awd it would definantly be expensive, massivly and i doubt it would be like altessa... cuz u need the gtr transmission which i have yet to see... and you wouldnt have the gtr computer in it...But why would you want awd? i thought you wanted to drift? (im not being harsh, just pointing it out)If you knew somone who specializes in awd cars ect you might have a good chance but otherwise... i would forget about it unless you found a tut. the temp thing may be a good explanation for that cable, probably what it is... or rather was... i dont think there could be a better explanation for it.PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:the SR is lighter than the KA, but I think only something like 50lbs or so.As for the awd question, I'm sure you (well, maybe not you haha jk) could do it, but it would be expensive as hell. I don't think it has ever been done before. At that point you should just buy something awd.
hlsd, vlsd, and open diffs all have different housing pumpkins, the inner diffs itself aren't interchangeable. I think the output shafts bolts your looking for are 5 bolt, i could be wrong tho. When you buy aftermarket 2-ways, they have different ones specified for the exact diff housing you have.http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/N...ntialhbpignosePA wrote:ok ive been looking into the s15 hsld swap into an open differential.... read as much as i could find on it thanks to d!ck and his write up, but i still have a few questions or need some clarifications...
u need the lsd (obviously) and output shafts.... whats the bolt pattern on that (i cant recall)
i also read somewhere that u need a cover from a vsld instead of the open diff cover,
i know there was about a five page thread about this maybe in jan....but i cant find the link to it, ive honestly searched for it for a while....
no, its not the right one.Scuffed_ChukiCoupe wrote:Hey adrian or whoever, i found the bulbs you were telling me to buy for the drl's but you werent sure if they were 1157 or 6. I found piaa bulbs on http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=3606 , thats the direct link to the bulbs. Are those the proper ones? And which one 57 or 56.
yeah... it looks like that. 1156 and 1157 bulbs are basically the same bulb, but the difference is those little 2 metal nipples at the bottom are at different locations for different sockets.Scuffed_ChukiCoupe wrote:i dunno if i sent you the wrong link http://www.mynismo.com/images/?id=3616 i belive tht is it. In the list where the prices are it has the part number though 1157 and 1156. Im gonna check my tails now to see.
oh sh1t... i thought they were the same... lolScuffed_ChukiCoupe wrote:d reverse lights are 1156 and the brake lights are 1157.
???ronin123 wrote:I like those bulbs I have those in taco long time ago.
ronin123 wrote:I like those bulbs I have those in taco long time ago.
Buahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!adrians_s13 wrote: ???
adrians_s13 wrote:8=======D~