well, my buddy made 340hp @ 14psi with a gt2871r turbo, 550cc injectors, z32 mafs, and I believe he has a greddy emanage for his ecu. 1500 is a pretty tight squeeze if brand new, if you search classifieds for used, its very possible. Get your mafs from the junkyard for like $20-50, injectors may cost $300+, I've seen 2871r turbos sell for less than 1000 on classifieds (they retail $1200), and emanages Ive seen sell for around $300-600 depending on condition and who you know.Steven2 wrote:The SR20DET engine w/ swap would be around $3500.
What steps would u take to reach that 350hp mark w/ $1500 left?
Or would that be impossible with $1500?
Or should i spend the rest on suspension (its got eibach springs)?
Suggestions?
haha, I printed my fsm at work when no one was looking.Vyper28 wrote:Hey, just purchased a '91 240sx and i'm loving it, but i'm kinda stuck on my first step of post-purchase love~ I dl'd the FSM from the forums here and browsed it, but it's pretty tough to work from a computer screen so i decided the best idea would be to buy a haynes or chilton manual.
Problem is, Apparently Haynes doesn't make one, and Chiltons manual has like 3 cars in it? Is it worth purchasing the chilton 200sx/stanza/240sx conglomeration manual, or is there a better option? Seems like a 3-in-one manual might be hard to navigate? Thanks in advance, and man... i love this car.
lxYaoxl wrote:hello, im new here and interested in buying a 240sx, but was wondering about 89-94 240sx. Do any chukis have manual seatbelts? TIA
and Japan!PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Only in Canada.
Yeah well... I was talking about easily obtainable cars. SMARTASS!adrians_s13 wrote:
and Japan!
eh.. to me, theyre both hard to attain... LOL. I have better luck finding s14 manual seatbelts than I do with Canadian or JDM seat belts..PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Yeah well... I was talking about easily obtainable cars. SMARTASS!
Wait, the bolts are bent? Just get new bolts...Daddy-O wrote:Thanks for the reply. I say it was a minor fender bender because I don't have a lot of external damage. I didn't own it when the accident occured. I am just trying to get it straight, again.
I took the bumper support off to get to the root of the problem. The arms that mount to the bolts and holes in the pictures were the only thing bent and I was able to mildly hammer those while they were off the car to fix it. It's pretty close. The problem comes when I try to put it on those bent bolts.
Any suggestion on way to hammer without messing up the threads on the bolts or tearing any of the metal?
Thanks again!
People around here seem to like BRM for exactly what you are describing.skyline3489 wrote:I have a question, im about to buy a exhaust for my 95 240sx and the only mod i have for the car is a Injen Cold Air Intake and i was wondering what would be a good exhaust for me to get thats not loud and is nice sounding, plz help thanks
hahaha i used a Chiltons once... lol and yup junk sums it up!PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Chiltons is junk, you are better off with drawings in the sand. Print out the FSM if it bothers you that much.
you wouldn't need to bypass it. The intake should have a bung right under the mafs that connects directly to it.jh3xp wrote:i was just wondering.... if you get an after market intake would you have to bypass the PAIR valve? if so does this effect emmisions? and if you bypass it....would u just use like a rubber plug of some sort on the exhaust side ?
haha... I did that, and my ka actually ran smootherPapaSmurf2k3 wrote:You could rip the whole thing out, and do the nickel behind the bolt trick. You will still pass emissions just fine (Assuming all your other emissions stuff is working).
geo metroSyco_nyco wrote:should i get a 240sx or a mr2 mark 2?
Meh, your questions aren't that bad.jh3xp wrote:Thank you guys very much (adrian and papasmurf)
ill try lookin for that thingy under the maf i didnt see any.. cus the connecter thing on the stock filter broke off on the hose for the PAIR lol.
oh and thank you for ur patience cus i kno my questions are stupid and i ask alot of stuffhaha
but mine when it idle w/o ac is like 600-700.. its just that when i brake in neutral it goes down 600. i don't know whyScuffed_ChukiCoupe wrote:I think thats idle... 750 is normal i belive.
Oooh... my bad... I had it confused with something else (its been that long since I've looked at a ka)... haha..PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
Adrian: There is no fitting under the maf. There was a tube coming out of the stock air box which connected into the PAIR valve. I think it was purposefully put before the maf, so that it could be ripped out with no ill effects.
you basically cut the bottom hose of the unit, and plug it with a nickel... haha.. I used a thick screw and hose clamp insteadjh3xp wrote:oo ok also i forgot to ask ...whats this "nickel behind the bolt trick" lol was that a joke or something?
weak grounds... its pretty common with old asss Japanese cars... you should consider getting better gounds or like a grounding kit. Get one off ebay for cheap or you can make your own... just clean your terminals, and replace your negative ground to the battery with a grounding kit, and attach them all over your engine bay grounds. You'll immediately feel a difference when you start your car.giodachamp wrote:why is that everytime a put my car on neutral then brake to a stop light stop sign etc.. it look like its gonna die but it doesn't. It drops down like below 600 rpm but not lower than 500 rpm. just curious
tercel drifter wrote:yes but u do have to add the price of tools if you are going to do it on your own. Tools are not cheap lol
pfff.. make it "ask papasmurf"... I just guess at this sh1tScuffed_ChukiCoupe wrote:this should be the ask papasmurf and adrian question's thread. lol, you guys rock
dude shhhh! You aren't supposed to tell them that. I am just amazed that 99% of what we say actually happens to be true/fix the problem.adrians_s13 wrote: pfff.. make it "ask papasmurf"... I just guess at this sh1t
In addition to the grounding kit, you might also want to try "Seafoaming" the car. For in-depth coverage, do a NICO search on it (don't forget to look in archived stuff).giodachamp wrote:
but mine when it idle w/o ac is like 600-700.. its just that when i brake in neutral it goes down 600. i don't know why
forced inductionNisxsz wrote:
my question is what can I do to the KADE to reach NA 200-250 hp?
I think more or less, you need just a pipe to connect the mafs to the turbo. Cold air intakes and short rams refer more to the non turbo (ka or sr). What you want looks like this... http://pipingpro.com/shop/prod...d=150nismo240freak wrote:Hi i am a newbie here and also new to the 240...I have a 90 hatchback 240 i bought 2 months ago...Just bought an SR20DET S13 redtop for it like 2 weeks ago...I need an intake for it so i was looking them up on ebay and ran across a Fujita Short Ram Intake for like $250...Will the short ram work with the S13 or do i need a cold air intake? What is the difference between the two?...Thanks!