I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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PapaSmurf2k3
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It doesn't look too bad. If you have the bumper and everything off already, that is the majority of the work. You said it was a minor fender bender, so I doubt the frame is damaged. What is the story with your bumper support? I didn't see it there. Is that bent or what. If I were you I would attempt to fix it myself.


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adrianfromthecastle
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Steven2 wrote:The SR20DET engine w/ swap would be around $3500.

What steps would u take to reach that 350hp mark w/ $1500 left?

Or would that be impossible with $1500?

Or should i spend the rest on suspension (its got eibach springs)?

Suggestions?
well, my buddy made 340hp @ 14psi with a gt2871r turbo, 550cc injectors, z32 mafs, and I believe he has a greddy emanage for his ecu. 1500 is a pretty tight squeeze if brand new, if you search classifieds for used, its very possible. Get your mafs from the junkyard for like $20-50, injectors may cost $300+, I've seen 2871r turbos sell for less than 1000 on classifieds (they retail $1200), and emanages Ive seen sell for around $300-600 depending on condition and who you know.

honestly, I'd spend that 1500 on a great set of coilovers. Also, save a few pennies to replace all the belts, seals, and gaskets.
Vyper28 wrote:Hey, just purchased a '91 240sx and i'm loving it, but i'm kinda stuck on my first step of post-purchase love~ I dl'd the FSM from the forums here and browsed it, but it's pretty tough to work from a computer screen so i decided the best idea would be to buy a haynes or chilton manual.

Problem is, Apparently Haynes doesn't make one, and Chiltons manual has like 3 cars in it? Is it worth purchasing the chilton 200sx/stanza/240sx conglomeration manual, or is there a better option? Seems like a 3-in-one manual might be hard to navigate? Thanks in advance, and man... i love this car.
haha, I printed my fsm at work when no one was looking.
lxYaoxl wrote:hello, im new here and interested in buying a 240sx, but was wondering about 89-94 240sx. Do any chukis have manual seatbelts? TIA
PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Only in Canada.
and Japan!

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PapaSmurf2k3
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adrians_s13 wrote:
and Japan!
Yeah well... I was talking about easily obtainable cars. SMARTASS!

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Daddy-O
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Thanks for the reply. I say it was a minor fender bender because I don't have a lot of external damage. I didn't own it when the accident occured. I am just trying to get it straight, again.

I took the bumper support off to get to the root of the problem. The arms that mount to the bolts and holes in the pictures were the only thing bent and I was able to mildly hammer those while they were off the car to fix it. It's pretty close. The problem comes when I try to put it on those bent bolts.

Any suggestion on way to hammer without messing up the threads on the bolts or tearing any of the metal?

Thanks again!

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adrianfromthecastle
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Yeah well... I was talking about easily obtainable cars. SMARTASS!
eh.. to me, theyre both hard to attain... LOL. I have better luck finding s14 manual seatbelts than I do with Canadian or JDM seat belts..

Vyper28
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Lol thanks guys, gonna see how works laserjet is doing on ink then

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Daddy-O wrote:Thanks for the reply. I say it was a minor fender bender because I don't have a lot of external damage. I didn't own it when the accident occured. I am just trying to get it straight, again.

I took the bumper support off to get to the root of the problem. The arms that mount to the bolts and holes in the pictures were the only thing bent and I was able to mildly hammer those while they were off the car to fix it. It's pretty close. The problem comes when I try to put it on those bent bolts.

Any suggestion on way to hammer without messing up the threads on the bolts or tearing any of the metal?

Thanks again!
Wait, the bolts are bent? Just get new bolts...

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skyline3489
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I have a question, im about to buy a exhaust for my 95 240sx and the only mod i have for the car is a Injen Cold Air Intake and i was wondering what would be a good exhaust for me to get thats not loud and is nice sounding, plz help thanks

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PapaSmurf2k3
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skyline3489 wrote:I have a question, im about to buy a exhaust for my 95 240sx and the only mod i have for the car is a Injen Cold Air Intake and i was wondering what would be a good exhaust for me to get thats not loud and is nice sounding, plz help thanks
People around here seem to like BRM for exactly what you are describing.

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TheGift
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Chiltons is junk, you are better off with drawings in the sand. Print out the FSM if it bothers you that much.
hahaha i used a Chiltons once... lol and yup junk sums it up!

jh3xp
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i was just wondering.... if you get an after market intake would you have to bypass the PAIR valve? if so does this effect emmisions? and if you bypass it....would u just use like a rubber plug of some sort on the exhaust side ?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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The PAIR valve was a nissan engineer's attempt to prove his worth to the company, which as we know now, was a lie. The PAIR valve is useless. You could rip the whole thing out, and do the nickel behind the bolt trick. You will still pass emissions just fine (Assuming all your other emissions stuff is working).

Syco_nyco
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should i get a 240sx or a mr2 mark 2?

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adrianfromthecastle
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jh3xp wrote:i was just wondering.... if you get an after market intake would you have to bypass the PAIR valve? if so does this effect emmisions? and if you bypass it....would u just use like a rubber plug of some sort on the exhaust side ?
you wouldn't need to bypass it. The intake should have a bung right under the mafs that connects directly to it.
PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:You could rip the whole thing out, and do the nickel behind the bolt trick. You will still pass emissions just fine (Assuming all your other emissions stuff is working).
haha... I did that, and my ka actually ran smoother
Syco_nyco wrote:should i get a 240sx or a mr2 mark 2?
geo metro

jh3xp
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Thank you guys very much (adrian and papasmurf)

ill try lookin for that thingy under the maf i didnt see any.. cus the connecter thing on the stock filter broke off on the hose for the PAIR lol.

oh and thank you for ur patience cus i kno my questions are stupid and i ask alot of stuff :D haha

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PapaSmurf2k3
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jh3xp wrote:Thank you guys very much (adrian and papasmurf)

ill try lookin for that thingy under the maf i didnt see any.. cus the connecter thing on the stock filter broke off on the hose for the PAIR lol.

oh and thank you for ur patience cus i kno my questions are stupid and i ask alot of stuff :D haha
Meh, your questions aren't that bad.

Adrian: There is no fitting under the maf. There was a tube coming out of the stock air box which connected into the PAIR valve. I think it was purposefully put before the maf, so that it could be ripped out with no ill effects.

What I beleive Jh3xp is talking about would be replacing the stock air box with a cone filter (with an adaptor plate bolted onto the MAF), at which point said fitting for the PAIR valve would be eliminated.

jh3xp
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oo ok also i forgot to ask ...whats this "nickel behind the bolt trick" lol was that a joke or something?

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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe
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this should be the ask papasmurf and adrian question's thread. lol, you guys rock

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giodachamp
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why is that everytime a put my car on neutral then brake to a stop light stop sign etc.. it look like its gonna die but it doesn't. It drops down like below 600 rpm but not lower than 500 rpm. just curious

tercel drifter
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yes but u do have to add the price of tools if you are going to do it on your own. Tools are not cheap lol

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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe
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I think thats idle... 750 is normal i belive.

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giodachamp
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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe wrote:I think thats idle... 750 is normal i belive.
but mine when it idle w/o ac is like 600-700.. its just that when i brake in neutral it goes down 600. i don't know why

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adrianfromthecastle
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
Adrian: There is no fitting under the maf. There was a tube coming out of the stock air box which connected into the PAIR valve. I think it was purposefully put before the maf, so that it could be ripped out with no ill effects.
Oooh... my bad... I had it confused with something else (its been that long since I've looked at a ka)... haha..

actually, if you don't wanna take the whole pair valve out, I remember what I did (before I ended up taking the whole thing out) was I added a breather to the end where the vacuum hose to the intake box would be... like one of these guys it costs maybe like 7-10 bucks at the autoparts store.
jh3xp wrote:oo ok also i forgot to ask ...whats this "nickel behind the bolt trick" lol was that a joke or something?
you basically cut the bottom hose of the unit, and plug it with a nickel... haha.. I used a thick screw and hose clamp instead
giodachamp wrote:why is that everytime a put my car on neutral then brake to a stop light stop sign etc.. it look like its gonna die but it doesn't. It drops down like below 600 rpm but not lower than 500 rpm. just curious
weak grounds... its pretty common with old asss Japanese cars... you should consider getting better gounds or like a grounding kit. Get one off ebay for cheap or you can make your own... just clean your terminals, and replace your negative ground to the battery with a grounding kit, and attach them all over your engine bay grounds. You'll immediately feel a difference when you start your car.
tercel drifter wrote:yes but u do have to add the price of tools if you are going to do it on your own. Tools are not cheap lol

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adrianfromthecastle
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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe wrote:this should be the ask papasmurf and adrian question's thread. lol, you guys rock
pfff.. make it "ask papasmurf"... I just guess at this sh1t

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PapaSmurf2k3
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adrians_s13 wrote: pfff.. make it "ask papasmurf"... I just guess at this sh1t
dude shhhh! You aren't supposed to tell them that. I am just amazed that 99% of what we say actually happens to be true/fix the problem.

And the nickel behind the bolt trick, is that you cut off the hose close to where the factory front pipe or "downpipe" is. You then unscrew the bolt that is going into the exhaust pipe, put a nickel between it and the exhaust, and screw it back on. This seals it off. Or you could do what adrian did, and put a bolt in the end of the rubber line, and secure it with a hose clamp.

Just to clear things up: you won't need a breather filter if you are converting your factory air box to a cone filter. (Or converting your whole intake to a injen or some other company.)

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PapaSmurf2k3
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giodachamp wrote:
but mine when it idle w/o ac is like 600-700.. its just that when i brake in neutral it goes down 600. i don't know why
In addition to the grounding kit, you might also want to try "Seafoaming" the car. For in-depth coverage, do a NICO search on it (don't forget to look in archived stuff).

Basically, you buy a can of seafoam from NAPA or whatever, and run about 1/3 of it through your brake booster line, so that the motor sucks it all up. Kill the engine, and wait about 10-15 minutes, start her back up, and let the smoke fly. It clears out a lot of crap in your vacuum systems, as well as combustion chamber, valves, etc. Now, I am not one to usually say this, but MAKE SURE YOU ARE IN A WELL VENTALATED AREA... as in OUTSIDE IN A FIELD WITH NO TREE COVER. This stuff is serious. I also reccommend changing all your plugs and O2 sensors after you are done, if they are old. Good luck!

Nisxsz
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Hi, I'm a NOOB. Right now I own a 98 Civic hatch, soon to be sold then I'm buying a s13 fastback (DOHC hopefully).

my question is what can I do to the KADE to reach NA 200-250 hp? For example, rebuilding the internals with bigger cams? Port polish? Enlighten please...:D

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adrianfromthecastle
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Nisxsz wrote:
my question is what can I do to the KADE to reach NA 200-250 hp?
forced induction

nismo240freak
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Hi i am a newbie here and also new to the 240...I have a 90 hatchback 240 i bought 2 months ago...Just bought an SR20DET S13 redtop for it like 2 weeks ago...I need an intake for it so i was looking them up on ebay and ran across a Fujita Short Ram Intake for like $250...Will the short ram work with the S13 or do i need a cold air intake? What is the difference between the two?...Thanks!

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adrianfromthecastle
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nismo240freak wrote:Hi i am a newbie here and also new to the 240...I have a 90 hatchback 240 i bought 2 months ago...Just bought an SR20DET S13 redtop for it like 2 weeks ago...I need an intake for it so i was looking them up on ebay and ran across a Fujita Short Ram Intake for like $250...Will the short ram work with the S13 or do i need a cold air intake? What is the difference between the two?...Thanks!
I think more or less, you need just a pipe to connect the mafs to the turbo. Cold air intakes and short rams refer more to the non turbo (ka or sr). What you want looks like this... http://pipingpro.com/shop/prod...d=150

I'm not too possitive, but I think ideally, the cold air that can be accessable only with a cold air intake or a short ram would do great for the non turbo ka's or sr's intake... but since your mafs is hooked to your turbo, and you have an intercooler forcing colder air into your intake manifold, you don't need a cold air intake or short ram. Correct me if I'm wrong...


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