I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
Brownskills
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Ill giv that a try. Thnks


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PyR0NiAk
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Maybe some type of abs thing? Nothing really in that area and ABS is the only thing I can think of where some cars would have it and some wouldn't...

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RxGlassjaw
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I have a RB25 that was previously wired for a 1993 240sx. If i pick up a shell that is 89 - 90 how much of a difference is wiring will there be?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I THINK the only difference is the speedometer... you might have to switch to a DOHC cluster or something. Other than that... all the wiring/ECU should come with it, right?

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dickie
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^ i thought it was the tach that's different between sohc and dohc?

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PyR0NiAk
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d!ck wrote:^ i thought it was the tach that's different between sohc and dohc?
Doesn't matter with the rb25.. He needs to change it either way so he has a 6 cylinder tach and not a 4 cyl tach.

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RxGlassjaw
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Okay, so it's just re wiring the tach under the dash then? The power steering might be in the way in the 89-90?

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PyR0NiAk
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RxGlassjaw wrote:Okay, so it's just re wiring the tach under the dash then? The power steering might be in the way in the 89-90?
I did an SR swap to my 90 hatch. The only RB swap I've helped with was in an S14, but I'm pretty sure you'll run into the same problems with the RB as you would the SR. So yeah, you'll need DOHC power steering lines. You'll also need to use custom mounts. The RB25 mounts shove the motor back quite a bit and the RB25 already has a slight problem with firewall interference. So, if I remember correctly, you're going to need custom mounts, dohc power steering lines, 6 cylinder tach, and I'm pretty sure you'll need a custom driveshaft. If you want to double check me, you can go to the RB25 forum and check the FAQ. As far as your original question goes, wiring for one S13 is the same as another aside from the sohc and dohc tachs which doesn't even matter since you're going with an inline 6.

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justinedible4
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Hey guys, does anyone know of good ways to get runs out of a paint job? Or could direct me to a good tut? And I mean a lot of runs. Thank you in advance.

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speedeast
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Car: 1990 240sx VH45 FB & 1993 300zx
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justinedible4 wrote:Hey guys, does anyone know of good ways to get runs out of a paint job? Or could direct me to a good tut? And I mean a lot of runs. Thank you in advance.
Base coat or clear coat?

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justinedible4
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speedeast wrote:Base coat or clear coat?
its basecoat, but it has some big runs so I think im just going to buy another pint at 16 bucks and sand it down and repaint.

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speedeast
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well, good luck. clear coat is easy enough to fix, base coat a little trickier.

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tycoonist
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hey ive been browsing this site for all my 240 needs and finally decided to join.

http://i39.tinypic.com/34yd6dl.jpg

got this coupon that expires the 31st. im not usin it. you guys have helped me a lot. all my questions are already answered through the search bar

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PyR0NiAk
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Thoughtful of you.. I recommend you go to gen chat or the main 240sx forum and introduce yourself.

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tycoonist
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i just automatically go to this sub-forum so i wiil properly introduce myself. thanks

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tmwnn
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Car: '93 240sx

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Stuck differential???

-Ok, so almost a year ago I payed someone to weld a spare diff I had. Due to college/work whatever it ended up being stowed in a corner in my garage for all this time and I never got around to installing it.

Since then, I've picked up a Mig welder and I'm trying to teach myself how to weld . Today I decided to check out my almost forgotten diff. I wasn't too satisfied with the welds the dude had done since he only welded the corners, and the beads were kinda small. So I decided to go over the welds myself and lay thicker/deeper layers.

HOWEVER, when I was finished with one side I tried to spin the diff to get to the other and it seems stuck ?? I read you just used a 17mm wrench on one of the ring gear bolts and it should break free and spin... I tried it with a wrench and a hammer and no luck, then I tried a big a** breaker bar and the bolt loosened up, but the diff didnt spin at all.

I left it alone cus I don't wanna f*** it up. How do I spin it to do the other side????

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speedeast
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tmwnn wrote:Stuck differential???

-Ok, so almost a year ago I payed someone to weld a spare diff I had. Due to college/work whatever it ended up being stowed in a corner in my garage for all this time and I never got around to installing it.

Since then, I've picked up a Mig welder and I'm trying to teach myself how to weld . Today I decided to check out my almost forgotten diff. I wasn't too satisfied with the welds the dude had done since he only welded the corners, and the beads were kinda small. So I decided to go over the welds myself and lay thicker/deeper layers.

HOWEVER, when I was finished with one side I tried to spin the diff to get to the other and it seems stuck ?? I read you just used a 17mm wrench on one of the ring gear bolts and it should break free and spin... I tried it with a wrench and a hammer and no luck, then I tried a big a** breaker bar and the bolt loosened up, but the diff didnt spin at all.

I left it alone cus I don't wanna f*** it up. How do I spin it to do the other side????
Take a picture for me of your welds first off, secondly... the input shaft usually rusts stuck, drench it in a penetrating catalyst and tap it all the way around with a hammer. Maybe do the same for each output shaft as well. Mine was frozen up too. Let me know if that helps you out any.

One more thing. It's not the size of the bead, but how deep it penetrates. Ideally it is a small bead but the metals butted underneath have become one. The bead doesn't hold things together.

Read up on welded differentials and look into the warnings and safety statements behind them. A lot of people don't think about what happens when you weld a differential. It's not really road safe from that point. Limited-slip diffs were designed to allow one side to spin faster than the other, for example when turning, the outside wheel travels much farther than the inside wheel. With a welded diff. your inside wheel will turn as much as the outside wheel and since there is significantly less distance, the inside wheel will spin. It will wear tires faster and cause a lot of spinning out. Just know what you're getting into is all.

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tmwnn
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RE: speedeast

Yes you are absolutely right. Its not the size but quality of the weld. Thing is when the guy welded my diff I also asked him to weld some hangers onto a muffler, and they sucked. The welds were very superficial...no real penetration. Ended up breaking off. Thats why I decided to take my chanced and try to do a better job, since his welds weren't really confidence-inspiring...

Here are the pics of my welds. Like I said I'm trying to teach myself and I've only been "welding" for a couple of days So if it looks like they wont hold please do tell me lol. I wouldn't have tried this myself with my skill level, if it wasn't for the fact that as I've said before, I don't thing the guy did a good job on them...





I'll try out your method and let it soak in PB Blaster then try to free it with a hammer tonight. Unless PB Blaster is not a good idea and something else is better?

And yes I did lots of reading before deciding to go with a welded so I know exactly what to expect. Thats also why I welded a spare one, so I can keep my stock one and switch it over in case I don't like it or just keep the welded one for whenever some track days come around.

Anyways, thanks a lot for your help. Hopefully I'll be able to get it loose and finish it sometime soon
Modified by tmwnn at 11:23 AM 3/23/2010

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speedeast
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Most people take it apart to weld it. I would recommend you do the same. Also, you can diagnose any issues better. If you weld it in place, you burn off the lubricants which can make it stick until it's re-lubricated. Also, if you weld it while it's still in the housing you risk spatter getting into the moving parts and being an issue. If you take it apart you can finish your welds, scrape out spatter, and re-lubricate the parts as you put them back together. (Gear Oil) Looks like you need to turn your feed speed down a little. I don't know what welder you're using, but on thicker metal like that, I run mine at "2." Good luck.

Take it apart. My $0.02.

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tmwnn
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Thats weird my impression was that most people didn't remove it, just welded it in place, spun it, and did the other side. I've even seen some people weld it on the car with only the cover removed

Taking it apart would seem the most "correct" way to do it... according to these instructions http://www.nicoclub.com/archiv....html , I just remove the axle shafts, then the bearing caps, and then simply pop the diff off...It won't mess up/misalign anything? I love to do things well but everything I do is self taught and I don't wanna screw up something important like my diff

And I was using a little Lincoln Weldpak 3200, at the highest voltage setting ''D''. Wire speed was around 6-7 if I recall correctly, I will try lowering it next time.

Thanks for the tip.

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speedeast
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On the 240 you can't weld it while it's on the car, the cap has studs on it that are what actually holds it to the car. If you are nervous about taking things apart, using a little while paint pen, draw a line from one piece to another before you disconnect so you know how they lined up before you disassembled. Don't be too nervous, the differential is pretty simple. Just keep us posted with your progress and we'll try to lend a hand to get you up and running.

That's a good write-up. Print it out and keep it hand if you need to.

K3Fallout
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So I have a '91 auto 240sx. It idles at about 7-800 rpm. Sometimes when I start the car, it cranks but the rpms slowly die and the car stalls, for the lack of a better word. I can start the car again, but I have to give it some gas. Any way to fix this? I don't think it's major, but it's becoming an annoyance.

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SpecD_240sx
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quick question, doing a z32 brake swap on front and back on my s13, just wondering if anyone knows if the stock 7 spoke nissan wheels will fit once i change the calipers. I assume they will seeing as the offset for the stock wheels is super high, but just looking for some facts.

Thanks

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speedeast
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K3Fallout wrote:So I have a '91 auto 240sx. It idles at about 7-800 rpm. Sometimes when I start the car, it cranks but the rpms slowly die and the car stalls, for the lack of a better word. I can start the car again, but I have to give it some gas. Any way to fix this? I don't think it's major, but it's becoming an annoyance.
Poke around and check for vacuum leaks or unplugged sensors/connectors. Also check all of your fuses; that's a good starting point

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speedeast
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SpecD_240sx wrote:quick question, doing a z32 brake swap on front and back on my s13, just wondering if anyone knows if the stock 7 spoke nissan wheels will fit once i change the calipers. I assume they will seeing as the offset for the stock wheels is super high, but just looking for some facts.

Thanks
Here's your answer, and it's not what you wanted: No. You will need spacers in order to reuse those wheels with 30mm calipers.

http://www.nicoclub.com/archiv....html

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Crazyirish
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SpecD_240sx wrote:I assume they will seeing as the offset for the stock wheels is super high, but just looking for some facts.
Unfortunately its never that easy. It really just depends on spoke design. Most of the time you just have to try and find someone else running the same wheel/caliper combo and see what they say.

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SpecD_240sx
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alright, well thats s***ty. i don't know a whole lot about spacers and stuff, but can i just buy like a 5mm spacer and then i'm good to go or do i need longer studs? Also, i was considering doing a 5 lug, so as an alternate option could i just do the 5 lug conversion and then get stock z32 wheels, will that work?

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speedeast
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I think 5mm spacers will work as is.

As for the Z32 lug swap, it will work with Z wheels...zerothread?id=359514

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KYZAAC
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whats the best way to remove the harness that runs under each of the fenders to the firewall? i got the one on the passenger side np what about the one on the drivers side? anyone know what plugs need to be disconnected? rather then ripping the dash apart.

and the throttle cable thats connected to the firewall
Modified by KYZAAC at 6:28 PM 3/25/2010

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SpecD_240sx
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thanks man, helps alot


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