Too heavy? No, but you will feel a considerable difference in acceleration and braking. @ 37lbs it has to be chrome...hatedinthemind wrote:Is a 37 lb rim too heavy for a 240sx?
Too heavy? No, but you will feel a considerable difference in acceleration and braking. @ 37lbs it has to be chrome...hatedinthemind wrote:Is a 37 lb rim too heavy for a 240sx?
Actually there cragars. I was thinking about using them on the track for drifting but im concerned about the weightspeedeast wrote:Too heavy? No, but you will feel a considerable difference in acceleration and braking. @ 37lbs it has to be chrome...
Well, you're adding roughly 60lbs to the weight of the car with those wheels. Not to mention all of that weight is unsprung, meaning your suspension can't counter force applied as quickly. You will get wheel hop, and the wheels are less capable of moving away from imperfections in the roadway, therefore more of the imperfection is absorbed in the tire and some extreme situations can lead to a bent rim, etc. You will lose traction from more unsprung mass, but not in the sense you would like. You lose traction from lack of wheel contact to the surface rather than the tire burning you're looking for. In all aspects of performance, less weight is always better.hatedinthemind wrote:
Actually there cragars. I was thinking about using them on the track for drifting but im concerned about the weight
The condition of the wheels would have a lot to do with it. I would guess $1500-$2k is the typical range for used 17" volks.Dazzla wrote:What is a reasonable price for TE37 in OK sizing? 17x9 +28 (s***ty offset I know) and 17x9.5 +12.
16's would be a little cheaper...http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...oriesDazzla wrote:What is a reasonable price for TE37 in OK sizing? 17x9 +28 (s***ty offset I know) and 17x9.5 +12.
Just keep your 240 rear brakes and use your oem e-brake... The front calipers are the only ones that make a real difference anyhow.RxGlassjaw wrote:if i do the 300zx brake swap on my 89 240sx, but keep it 4 lug by getting 4 lug 300zx rotors is it possible to have an e brake?
Yeah i was thinking about doing just that... but wasn't sure if there was any way at all to make an e-brake work.speedeast wrote:Just keep your 240 rear brakes and use your oem e-brake... The front calipers are the only ones that make a real difference anyhow.
Thanks brospeedeast wrote:Well, you're adding roughly 60lbs to the weight of the car with those wheels. Not to mention all of that weight is unsprung, meaning your suspension can't counter force applied as quickly. You will get wheel hop, and the wheels are less capable of moving away from imperfections in the roadway, therefore more of the imperfection is absorbed in the tire and some extreme situations can lead to a bent rim, etc. You will lose traction from more unsprung mass, but not in the sense you would like. You lose traction from lack of wheel contact to the surface rather than the tire burning you're looking for. In all aspects of performance, less weight is always better.
that one will work just fineKYZAAC wrote:what size jaw puller is needed to remove the sr pulley's? i thought i read 6" somewhere but cant find the thread.
thanks again sir!speedeast wrote:that one will work just fine
The lower hose is supposed to be cold. 99.9% of the time, its because there is air in the system. Make sure you install the thermostat with the dot/dimple on the top side. It allows air to get out of the system.odmoht wrote:ok..still having overheating problems.i just bought a new thermo stat from autozone and i put it in.but i think its not opening...because lower rad hose is cold...need to fix this problem, running low on money =/
any help is appreciated !
Nope, weld it wherever you want. I typically like to put it close to the throttle body, just so it wont open in the event that you get a boost leak or some sort of pressure drop in your system after the BOV.KYZAAC wrote:
but there's no exact spot/position to weld right? on the side before the bend be ok?
Buy one of those razors with a handle... kinda like a putty knife. Its much easier on your fingers, you have way more control, and way more force behind it.PyR0NiAk wrote:Just wondering if anyone here has any nice tips for removing the headgasket from the block... I've been doing the popular method with the razor blade and brake cleaner, but it seems to be EXTREMELY time consuming and I can't help but feel I'm going to end up destroying the top of my block..
That's actually what that blade is out of... The force is what scared me... What are the chances of it ruining the top of my block?PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
Buy one of those razors with a handle... kinda like a putty knife. Its much easier on your fingers, you have way more control, and way more force behind it.
Well, can score the top of the block. I already posted it in your progress thread, but I used a gasket scraper tool (not very sharp, angled, 2" wide) and an sos pad soaked in Eagle 1 Aluminum rims cleaner:PyR0NiAk wrote:
That's actually what that blade is out of... The force is what scared me... What are the chances of it ruining the top of my block?