I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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speedeast
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hatedinthemind wrote:Is a 37 lb rim too heavy for a 240sx?
Too heavy? No, but you will feel a considerable difference in acceleration and braking. @ 37lbs it has to be chrome...


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PapaSmurf2k3
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wow that is a pretty heavy wheel... it'll be even heavier with tires.

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hatedinthemind
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speedeast wrote:Too heavy? No, but you will feel a considerable difference in acceleration and braking. @ 37lbs it has to be chrome...
Actually there cragars. I was thinking about using them on the track for drifting but im concerned about the weight

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speedeast
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hatedinthemind wrote:
Actually there cragars. I was thinking about using them on the track for drifting but im concerned about the weight
Well, you're adding roughly 60lbs to the weight of the car with those wheels. Not to mention all of that weight is unsprung, meaning your suspension can't counter force applied as quickly. You will get wheel hop, and the wheels are less capable of moving away from imperfections in the roadway, therefore more of the imperfection is absorbed in the tire and some extreme situations can lead to a bent rim, etc. You will lose traction from more unsprung mass, but not in the sense you would like. You lose traction from lack of wheel contact to the surface rather than the tire burning you're looking for. In all aspects of performance, less weight is always better.

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Dazzla
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What is a reasonable price for TE37 in OK sizing? 17x9 +28 (s***ty offset I know) and 17x9.5 +12.

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Crazyirish
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Dazzla wrote:What is a reasonable price for TE37 in OK sizing? 17x9 +28 (s***ty offset I know) and 17x9.5 +12.
The condition of the wheels would have a lot to do with it. I would guess $1500-$2k is the typical range for used 17" volks.

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speedeast
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Dazzla wrote:What is a reasonable price for TE37 in OK sizing? 17x9 +28 (s***ty offset I know) and 17x9.5 +12.
16's would be a little cheaper...http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories

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RxGlassjaw
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if i do the 300zx brake swap on my 89 240sx, but keep it 4 lug by getting 4 lug 300zx rotors is it possible to have an e brake?

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speedeast
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RxGlassjaw wrote:if i do the 300zx brake swap on my 89 240sx, but keep it 4 lug by getting 4 lug 300zx rotors is it possible to have an e brake?
Just keep your 240 rear brakes and use your oem e-brake... The front calipers are the only ones that make a real difference anyhow.

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RxGlassjaw
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speedeast wrote:Just keep your 240 rear brakes and use your oem e-brake... The front calipers are the only ones that make a real difference anyhow.
Yeah i was thinking about doing just that... but wasn't sure if there was any way at all to make an e-brake work.

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SpecD_240sx
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If you do the rears you'll need the e-brake hardware an cables from a 300zx. If it's for any s14 then it's different as the cables don't have the proper length.

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hatedinthemind
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speedeast wrote:Well, you're adding roughly 60lbs to the weight of the car with those wheels. Not to mention all of that weight is unsprung, meaning your suspension can't counter force applied as quickly. You will get wheel hop, and the wheels are less capable of moving away from imperfections in the roadway, therefore more of the imperfection is absorbed in the tire and some extreme situations can lead to a bent rim, etc. You will lose traction from more unsprung mass, but not in the sense you would like. You lose traction from lack of wheel contact to the surface rather than the tire burning you're looking for. In all aspects of performance, less weight is always better.
Thanks bro

Brownskills
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a) noted a 'hush' sound from front drive side, even on the smallest bump in the road. Are my struts shot, cause my the overall suspension is stiff. b) what is the offset on an S14-95, will 17' fit and if so are forged the better choice?

Thanks

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OutToWinPAHC
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The hush sounds could be a bad shock seal.

17's fit S14's Most run a 17 or 18 some have ran 19's. The stock wheel sizing is a higher offset skinny wheel. So if your running a 17 I have to ask.

How much power, what size tire do you want and how do you use the car?

Forged means machined from a solid piece, forged is better than cast, but also more expensive.

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KYZAAC
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what size jaw puller is needed to remove the sr pulley's? i thought i read 6" somewhere but cant find the thread.

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speedeast
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KYZAAC wrote:what size jaw puller is needed to remove the sr pulley's? i thought i read 6" somewhere but cant find the thread.
that one will work just fine

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Dire91
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Header connects to the engine on the right side if facing the engine. The header goes to the downpipe and then to the test pipe correct? What is a test pipe, dumb question I know but thanks.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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the header and/or manifold will go to the downpipe/front pipe. The front pipe/downpipe is what usually has a section of flex pipe in it, and then it usually connects to the catalytic converter. Some people remove the catalytic converter, and replace it with a test pipe for better flow. Alls a test pipe is is a pipe with 2 flanges on it, the same length of that of the factory catalytic converter (it just replaces it). They are illegal in most states.

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KYZAAC
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speedeast wrote:that one will work just fine
thanks again sir!

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KYZAAC
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few more questions lol

i just got a greddy hotpipe in the mail, first thing i asked before buying was, does it have a flange to fit a greddy bov, i was told it did, but of course it does not!

can a flange be welded on? i was going to order a hotpipe from cxracing a few months ago and just cut a hole and weld the flange on, and they told me a flange couldnt be welded on that pipe, now the guy i got the greddy pipe from said a flange can be welded on.

so what is it? if it can be welded on, what size hole should be drilled, is there an exact point where the hole needs to be cut, any thing else i should know?

thanks

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Who did you buy it from? I'd call them up and cuss them out if they told you it came with a flange and now it doesn't have one.

Is it Aluminum? You'll have to bring it to a welding shop to get it a flange welded on if that's the case (or buy yourself a tig welder).

odmoht
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ok..still having overheating problems.i just bought a new thermo stat from autozone and i put it in.but i think its not opening...because lower rad hose is cold...need to fix this problem, running low on money =/

any help is appreciated !

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KYZAAC
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it sucks, especially that im in Canada, most of the time its cheaper to buy another item rather then all the shipping charges, that i shouldn't have to pay, i ordered a blue pulley set, i got a silver set with a note saying "i ran out of blue so heres silver" then i ordered a polished intake manifold, i got a non-polished manifold, now i have 2 of each. only cheap ones, but still..

yea i do have a tig welder, can't tig anymore, paralyzed my arm a few years ago.i can get someone here to weld it up np, just i was told a flange could not be welded to a cxracing hp, couldn't understand why tho.

but there's no exact spot/position to weld right? on the side before the bend be ok?


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PapaSmurf2k3
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odmoht wrote:ok..still having overheating problems.i just bought a new thermo stat from autozone and i put it in.but i think its not opening...because lower rad hose is cold...need to fix this problem, running low on money =/

any help is appreciated !
The lower hose is supposed to be cold. 99.9% of the time, its because there is air in the system. Make sure you install the thermostat with the dot/dimple on the top side. It allows air to get out of the system.

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PyR0NiAk
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Just wondering if anyone here has any nice tips for removing the headgasket from the block... I've been doing the popular method with the razor blade and brake cleaner, but it seems to be EXTREMELY time consuming and I can't help but feel I'm going to end up destroying the top of my block..


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PapaSmurf2k3
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KYZAAC wrote:
but there's no exact spot/position to weld right? on the side before the bend be ok?
Nope, weld it wherever you want. I typically like to put it close to the throttle body, just so it wont open in the event that you get a boost leak or some sort of pressure drop in your system after the BOV.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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PyR0NiAk wrote:Just wondering if anyone here has any nice tips for removing the headgasket from the block... I've been doing the popular method with the razor blade and brake cleaner, but it seems to be EXTREMELY time consuming and I can't help but feel I'm going to end up destroying the top of my block..
Buy one of those razors with a handle... kinda like a putty knife. Its much easier on your fingers, you have way more control, and way more force behind it.

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PyR0NiAk
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
Buy one of those razors with a handle... kinda like a putty knife. Its much easier on your fingers, you have way more control, and way more force behind it.
That's actually what that blade is out of... The force is what scared me... What are the chances of it ruining the top of my block?

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speedeast
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PyR0NiAk wrote:
That's actually what that blade is out of... The force is what scared me... What are the chances of it ruining the top of my block?
Well, can score the top of the block. I already posted it in your progress thread, but I used a gasket scraper tool (not very sharp, angled, 2" wide) and an sos pad soaked in Eagle 1 Aluminum rims cleaner:


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alfsnissan
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I just installed a gauge cluster in the 240 and the gas and half the mph wont light up. the old one worked fine so that rules out wireing and i took the bulb out the old gas spot and put in the new. Still nothing. What would cause this? Should I change all the bulbs? Thanks.


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