I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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speedeast
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KYZAAC wrote:whats the best way to remove the harness that runs under each of the fenders to the firewall? i got the one on the passenger side np what about the one on the drivers side? anyone know what plugs need to be disconnected? rather then ripping the dash apart.

and the throttle cable thats connected to the firewall
If you look at my build you'll notice what I did to keep from unplugging the connectors, lol. And there are multiple connectors under there that you have to unplug.... eh, not fun:

You can see the wires wrapped up hanging from the ceiling...

Good luck.
SpecD_240sx wrote:thanks man, helps alot
You're welcome!


cmilla
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hey everyone i am knew here from the honda world. i just dropped a s15 sr20 into my s14. what ecu do i use and what tuning software does everyone suggest i use?? any info would be awesome thanks

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I'm assuming you would be using the factory S15 ECU... and I don't know if they make it for that ECU, but NISTUNE is a pretty good platform.

What are your power goals? If you are going for broke, maybe go for the AEM EMS.

cmilla
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i have no idea what ecu it is here are the numbers off the ecu has a big WE on top then first code is 23710 69f10 then a18-000 g71 then last code is 3y04. it came with the swap here is the ebay link on where i bought it http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...%3AIT ecu also says s14 modified on it written with a marker and has a hks fcon system plugged into it

cmilla
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i looked up serial numbers and found it is a automatic sr20 ecu will this also have a affect on the since it is a manual

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PapaSmurf2k3
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It shouldn't... I'm not too familiar with SR ECUs, but you can use an auto KA ECU with a manual... it just removes the top speed limiters

You could try asking in NICO's RWD SR subforum.

jgc731
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I got a circuit sports shifter v2 and i tried to install but I cant reach the 2 bolts at the front of the shifter plate from inside the car and under the car.

I went under the car and i can feel the two bolts, but I don't have enough room for my wrench up there.

is it my only option left to lower the transmission, if so can someone give me a link for that.


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PyR0NiAk
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Use a ratchet wrench... Took me all of 5 minutes to pull every bolt out... Did it from inside the car..

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STEEZxIT
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does anyone know where to go to get shocks rebuilt in so cal? like near inland empire area or la? i may have blown a shock on my front drivers side coilover...

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OutToWinPAHC
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Shock or a coilover? If it is a shock just replace it

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STEEZxIT
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i have ksport coilovers, the spring looks ok, but the shock feels blown, its really soft in that one corner while the rest is quite stiff, as it should be. i'm tryin to get it looked at by a pro so i can get it functioning the way it should be asap

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Crazyirish
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PyR0NiAk wrote:Use a ratchet wrench... Took me all of 5 minutes to pull every bolt out... Did it from inside the car..
I had a real hard time when I did mine. I finally unbolted the transmission crossmember to get enough gap to reach the front bolts. Then I ripped the paper gasket in half. I was highly agitated.

jgc731
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a ratchet wrench wont give me enough clearance to get the socket over the head of the 12mm bolts.

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KYZAAC
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speedeast wrote:If you look at my build you'll notice what I did to keep from unplugging the connectors, lol. And there are multiple connectors under there that you have to unplug.... eh, not fun:

You can see the wires wrapped up hanging from the ceiling...

Good luck.You're welcome!
haha nice, i was thinking on doing the same, i couldn't get the fuse box thru the side slot.

how does the throttle cable come out?

im thinking on getting a z32 maf, but not sure about setup. i know the ecu has to be programmed, but whats involved to program it? is there a certain intake that needs to be bought? is there anything else needed? how much will it cost total to setup/is it worth it?

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speedeast
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KYZAAC wrote:
haha nice, i was thinking on doing the same, i couldn't get the fuse box thru the side slot.

how does the throttle cable come out?

im thinking on getting a z32 maf, but not sure about setup. i know the ecu has to be programmed, but whats involved to program it? is there a certain intake that needs to be bought? is there anything else needed? how much will it cost total to setup/is it worth it?
As far as the fuse box, I just disassembled it and took each relay out but left them all wired up.

With the MAF questions:

This link is a good resource for wiring. Make sure you read the posts, there is good information in there.http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10282

This link is good for the same thing, but not Barney speed, from Jom Wolf:http://jimwolftechnology.com/w...S.PDF

SAFC would be an option without a tune I think. Has something to do with settings. Do a search on z32 maf and ka and see what you come up with.

Wish I could help you more; my goal is to eliminate my MAF when my engine gets some upgrades.

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rakers
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I have some average quality tires on my '93 240sx. What psi should I be running them at to give me an ideal mix of performance and fuel economy?

What are the basic theories about tire pressure and performance?

Thanks!

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speedeast
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rakers wrote:I have some average quality tires on my '93 240sx. What psi should I be running them at to give me an ideal mix of performance and fuel economy?

What are the basic theories about tire pressure and performance?

Thanks!
35-36 psi is a good starting point.

There really are no advantages to under-inflating; it can wear tires 25% faster and lead to tire failure if only 5+ psi under recommendation. Over-inflating improves cornering stability and steering response up to a point. My tires are marked with a 50 psi maximum, so I would recommend never going that high. Over-inflated tires cannot isolate irregularities in the road as well; therefore, they are more likely to sustain damage from pot holes, debris, etc.

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PyR0NiAk
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jgc731 wrote:a ratchet wrench wont give me enough clearance to get the socket over the head of the 12mm bolts.
a ratchet wrench doesn't use a socket...


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KYZAAC
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speedeast wrote:As far as the fuse box, I just disassembled it and took each relay out but left them all wired up.

With the MAF questions:

This link is a good resource for wiring. Make sure you read the posts, there is good information in there.http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10282

This link is good for the same thing, but not Barney speed, from Jom Wolf:http://jimwolftechnology.com/w...S.PDF

SAFC would be an option without a tune I think. Has something to do with settings. Do a search on z32 maf and ka and see what you come up with.

Wish I could help you more; my goal is to eliminate my MAF when my engine gets some upgrades.
thanks that was helpful, i did search and read a few topics, i was just looking for a basic understanding of the setup. im going to wait til i get the sr in b4 i get into that. i'll stick to the basics for now.

i have pretty much everything ready for the swap, still un-clear on alot of stuff tho. im trying to decide on a wastegate, will a 38mm do?

*EDIT*forgot to add this chart i found* * big turbo/low boost = bigger wastegate * big turbo/high boost = smaller wastegate * small turbo/low boost = bigger wastegate * small turbo/high boost = smaller wastegate

would the stock sr t25 be under "small turbo/low boost" and would a 44mm be better?

how do i increase boost? is it the wastegate or the actuator that increases boost? stock is 7psi, the HKS Actuator Kit increases to 12psi, is the hks act nessasary to increase boost or is there another way?what is a safe psi to run?i will be getting a cheap manual boost controller for now, i read that in order to close the internal wg valve, it must be welded shut, or a bracket installed, which of these methods is perfered? i can weld it myself but is there any way it could damage it? is this the bracket?

i know this stuff is common sense to most of you, my first turbo motor and its tucked away in the corner, until i have everything i need. once i take it apart i'll understand everything. if someone could explain the basics to me that would be helpful. any details at all will be goodThanks
Modified by KYZAAC at 3:43 PM 3/27/2010

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Romeo_rus
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Your T25 is internally gated. There is no reason for an external wastegate. As far as increasing boost, you can use a boost controller. They "fool" the wastegate and "Trick" it into staying closed longer, allowing you to make more boost.

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KYZAAC
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really eh, so there is no advantage for the external wastegate, do i need a hks actuator? and how much boost would i get with just the manual boost controller?

odmoht
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need some help.i test my two t-stats in boiling water and they both work.so i put one in my car, but my car still overheats and my lower rad hose and the hose near the t-stat housing is cold.

i tried to take out as much air bubbles as possiblewater pump is about 6 months old i thinknew radiator

also, could the upper intake manifold go bad??i ask because there was air seeping out of the area where the bleeder vavle connects to the upper rad hose.

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speedeast
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odmoht wrote:need some help.i test my two t-stats in boiling water and they both work.so i put one in my car, but my car still overheats and my lower rad hose and the hose near the t-stat housing is cold.

i tried to take out as much air bubbles as possiblewater pump is about 6 months old i thinknew radiator

also, could the upper intake manifold go bad??i ask because there was air seeping out of the area where the bleeder vavle connects to the upper rad hose.
Make sure you thoroughly bleed the system until you're sure it's bled, then do it again. Check your water pump for any leakage and other simple stuff like making sure the belt is turning the pump all right. Then bleed it again. Make sure there is plenty of coolant. Check lines for kinks or blockages. Bleed it again.

See a pattern? I'm not saying your system needs to be bled, but 9 out of 10 times air in the system is the problem. You say it's a new radiator, and those things can take a while to bleed. Bleed it on level ground. Bleed it on an incline facing both directions (or just use a jack).

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

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PyR0NiAk
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KYZAAC wrote:really eh, so there is no advantage for the external wastegate, do i need a hks actuator? and how much boost would i get with just the manual boost controller?
That was my post earlier. I was at Roman's house and his account was already logged in. Either way, you can turn the boost up as much as you want with a manual boost controller. If I remember correctly, the T25 maxes out at like 13-14 psi.

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KYZAAC
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PyR0NiAk wrote:
That was my post earlier. I was at Roman's house and his account was already logged in. Either way, you can turn the boost up as much as you want with a manual boost controller. If I remember correctly, the T25 maxes out at like 13-14 psi.
thanks for saving me a few bucks, so when is a wastegate used? bigger turbo's? or turbo's that have no internal wastegates

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PyR0NiAk
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KYZAAC wrote:thanks for saving me a few bucks, so when is a wastegate used? bigger turbo's? or turbo's that have no internal wastegates
WDRacing has a post somewhere on here going into detail explaining why you use what wastegates, but I'll do my best to explain it in simple terms. An external wastegate is used anytime there is NOT an internal wastegate. On larger turbos an internal wastegate may not be big enough and could cause some serious boost creep, so alot of the large turbos don't have one and you, instead, use an external.. My Garret GT3071R I'm using on my SR is internally gated. It's one of few things I regret about my choices because now I'm curious how much boost creep I'm going to see. (Hopefully none) It's size is right at the limit for when you'd want to use an internal gate. If I had instead went with something like a GT35R, there is no chance I would have even thought about using an internal gate. (I don't even think it's an option with these turbos.) If you have any more questions, feel free to ask. I frequent this thread quite a bit.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Just to set the record straight, you really can't run a wastegate that is TOO big. If you run one that is too small and run low enough boost, you could run into boost creep. The waste gate doesn't open until it sees the boost pressure that it wants to see (either handled by springs and diaphragms, or by springs and diaphragms and boost controllers ).

A wastegate that is too small will not be able to flow enough exhaust to bypass the turbo in order to maintain your boost pressure... at which point you'll end up with boost creep. Once you get to a certain boost pressure, the ehxaust pressure increases so much through the same wastegate, that it can now flow enough (flow being a function of differences in pressure). That's why you can typically run a smaller wastegate on a higher boost setup...

Why wouldn't you just get the biggest freaking wastegate ever? The only reason that I know of, is cost.

Can you run an external wastegate in conjunction with an internally gated turbo? Absolutely. If your internally gated turbo has an actuator that actuates at say 9psi, and you want to run less than that, you can either change out the actuator (which is sometimes difficult/impossible to find and can be expensive), or you can just run another wastegate that will open up at a lower boost pressure (via lower spring force in the wastegate). You can also run an external wastegate in conjunction with an internally gated turbo if you are experiencing boost creep.

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PyR0NiAk
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
Just to set the record straight, you really can't run a wastegate that is TOO big. If you run one that is too small and run low enough boost, you could run into boost creep. The waste gate doesn't open until it sees the boost pressure that it wants to see (either handled by springs and diaphragms, or by springs and diaphragms and boost controllers ).

A wastegate that is too small will not be able to flow enough exhaust to bypass the turbo in order to maintain your boost pressure... at which point you'll end up with boost creep. Once you get to a certain boost pressure, the ehxaust pressure increases so much through the same wastegate, that it can now flow enough (flow being a function of differences in pressure). That's why you can typically run a smaller wastegate on a higher boost setup...

Why wouldn't you just get the biggest freaking wastegate ever? The only reason that I know of, is cost.

Can you run an external wastegate in conjunction with an internally gated turbo? Absolutely. If your internally gated turbo has an actuator that actuates at say 9psi, and you want to run less than that, you can either change out the actuator (which is sometimes difficult/impossible to find and can be expensive), or you can just run another wastegate that will open up at a lower boost pressure (via lower spring force in the wastegate). You can also run an external wastegate in conjunction with an internally gated turbo if you are experiencing boost creep.
Nice post PS2k3

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KYZAAC
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PyR0NiAk wrote:
Nice post PS2k3
Agreed! good info guys! thanks for clearing that up!

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hatedinthemind
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Is a 37 lb rim too heavy for a 240sx?


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